What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[stevenfromtexas]

shop guy said my gas tank was no good. i filled it up with water to see how bad it was. found this guy.

can this be fixed?

[JMC1965]

Fixed leak in A/C system and re-charged.

[427Carl]

air ? oh ya I forgot . Texas is warm .

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by 427Carl

air ? oh ya I forgot . Texas is warm .

I just put snownmobile electric hand warmers on my blower. Canadian living eh. The hulk is ready for more snow.

[PIC21]

Brand new to the forum although i stopped by here years ago when i owned a 1950 1/2 ton chevy. I recently bought a 1972 c10 with 86K miles (350) -- very original truck. Yesterday i decided to order a rebuilt rochester carb because the carb on the truck seems to pour out gasoline sometimes. Im not a mechanic but i want to try to rebuild the original carb while keeping the truck on the road by installing the rebuilt version. First job is to make room in the garage and get the truck out of the cold. I'm open to everyone's advice and guidance on this.

[JMC1965]

Oh yeah...AC is serious business for 10 1/2 months

[66clow]

After months of shimming my starter trying to get it to work I broke down and bought a starter for a 1997 GMC C 3500 5.7 truck. Removed about 10lbs. I forgot what it's like to get in my truck and start it right up. It works beautifully. Also replaced a leaking wheel cylinder, now I have to get my wife to help me bleed the system . She's going to love that.

[VWNate1]

Such a tiny little thing ! .

I hope you replaced both brake cylinders, it is false economy to replace only one side ~ brake parts are to be serviced and replaced in axle sets .

[Boog]

Originally Posted by 66clow

After months of shimming my starter trying to get it to work I broke down and bought a starter for a 1997 GMC C 3500 5.7 truck. Removed about 10lbs. I forgot what it's like to get in my truck and start it right up. It works beautifully. Also replaced a leaking wheel cylinder, now I have to get my wife to help me bleed the system . She's going to love that.

Well, swap places with her this time. Let her handle the bleeder wrench while you do the pedal pumping. She won't mind pumping next time near as much.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by Boog

Well, swap places with her this time. Let her handle the bleeder wrench while you do the pedal pumping. She won't mind pumping next time near as much.

I have a pretty good insurance policy she might not tighten the bleeder valve LOL .

[Boog]

Doh!! Good thinking.

[rustytruck50]

Well, it wasn't today.....Saturday actually, but Raymond got a much deserved new set of tires. As close as I could tell, the old Hankooks were put on at least 15, maybe 20 years ago....lots of tread, but drier and harder than a popcorn toot. I took him from 235/75/15 AT to Cooper Cobra 255/70/15s....really like the look & ride. Now if I could get the dash lights consistently working.....

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Well, it wasn't today.....Saturday actually, but Raymond got a much deserved new set of tires. As close as I could tell, the old Hankooks were put on at least 15, maybe 20 years ago....lots of tread, but drier and harder than a popcorn toot. I took him from 235/75/15 AT to Cooper Cobra 255/70/15s....really like the look & ride. Now if I could get the dash lights consistently working.....

I had a set of 255/70 15 Cobras on 15 x 8 rallys on my other truck and they were great. Looks like you have 15 x 8's on your truck too. That tire rim combo just fills in the wheel well real nice.

[rustytruck50]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

I had a set of 255/70 15 Cobras on 15 x 8 rallys on my other truck and they were great. Looks like you have 15 x 8's on your truck too. That tire rim combo just fills in the wheel well real nice.

It really does...I looked at several trucks with 275/60 15's and several with 255/70s & kept coming back to the 255s. I've had a couple of sets of these on other trucks and really liked 'em.

[beaterku]

I built a smoke machine for finding vacuum leaks last night. Works pretty good. Makes a LOT of smoke.

[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by beaterku

I built a smoke machine for finding vacuum leaks last night. Works pretty good. Makes a LOT of smoke.

It needs a LUCAS sticker.......

[paul blair]

Originally Posted by beaterku

I built a smoke machine for finding vacuum leaks last night. Works pretty good. Makes a LOT of smoke.

Lets see it smokin

[Indyspecracer]

Installed one of Boyd's tanks and installed some 5 lug rotors so that we could try on some new/used shoes! Scored the Vintecs on craigslist😎

[3757chevy]

Added a couple of lights.

[testerdahl]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Added a couple of lights.

Just a couple? LOL.

[3757chevy]

Welcome aboard Stewsclues nice truck. Tell us more about it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Learned how to remove front coil springs today. Like everything else on these trucks, it was easier than expected. This is how I did it.

I read where one of the members secures the spring by running a chain through the spring and bottom control arm. If you ask me, that's exactly how you do it. Doesn't take much effort, and might save your life.

Course that chain placement may not bode well for a floor jack placed underneath the spring, but I read in a number of places to jack up the outer end of the control arm, so I removed the zerk fitting and did just that. I only raised it an inch or so, because the only things on the frame are the front suspension, and the engine and transmission. It worked well.

Backed the nuts off maybe 3/8" and went at the ball joints with a pickle fork. I had to back off the floor jack some, I believe to release the lower joints. Then I lowered the control arm, and that spring is pretty well loose.

I say pretty well loose, because like dummy I was talking to someone, and forgot to re-secure the lower control arm with the floor jack. Then I took off what I believe was the top nut. Yeah, the lower control arm met with the concrete. Really, there was little to no tension on the spring at that point. No harm no foul, there was less force than I'd expect, but don't do that................

I cut the tops of the rivets with a Dremel. It's clean, but I went through 4 wheels. Took a chisel to the cuts and it made for a nice surface to drill. I used oil of course, and kept the bits cool, and didn't waste a single bit. That said, I only drilled a 1/4" diameter. I punched the first one out, but left the rest. I may see if it's better to remove them with the control arm off. Anyone know how large the rivet holes are? I'd guess 3/8". How about replacement bolt size?............... Something tells me I shouldn't have drilled all the way through those rivets, and just punch them out.............. EDIT: Yep. I should have invested in a good air chisel. I'll save it for another day, do it the hard way........Ha!.



Don't know how to install cleanly yet, but I may get one of these to avoid scratches. http://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-to...ompressor.html

Other ideas for install appreciated. Other than that, I agree with everyone who says so, don't use coil compressors to remove front coil springs. Now to figure out how to remove ball joints.

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Learned how to remove front coil springs today. Like everything else on these trucks, it was easier than expected. This is how I did it.

I read where one of the members secures the spring by running a chain through the spring and bottom control arm. If you ask me, that's exactly how you do it. Doesn't take much effort, and might save your life.

Course that chain placement may not bode well for a floor jack placed underneath the spring, but I read in a number of places to jack up the outer end of the control arm, so I removed the zerk fitting and did just that. I only raised it an inch or so, because the only things on the frame are the front suspension, and the engine and transmission. It worked well.

Backed the nuts off maybe 3/8" and went at the ball joints with a pickle fork. I had to back off the floor jack some, I believe to release the lower joints. Then I lowered the control arm, and that spring is pretty well loose.

I say pretty well loose, because like dummy I was talking to someone, and forgot to re-secure the lower control arm with the floor jack. Then I took off what I believe was the top nut. Yeah, the lower control arm met with the concrete. Really, there was little to no tension on the spring at that point. No harm no foul, there was less force than I'd expect, but don't do that................

I cut the tops of the rivets with a Dremel. It's clean, but I went through 4 wheels. Took a chisel to the cuts and it made for a nice surface to drill. I used oil of course, and kept the bits cool, and didn't waste a single bit. That said, I only drilled a 1/4" diameter. I punched the first one out, but left the rest. I may see if it's better to remove them with the control arm off. Anyone know how large the rivet holes are? I'd guess 3/8". How about replacement bolt size?............... Something tells me I shouldn't have drilled all the way through those rivets, and just punch them out.............. EDIT: Yep. I should have invested in a good air chisel. I'll save it for another day, do it the hard way........Ha!.



Don't know how to install cleanly yet, but I may get one of these to avoid scratches. http://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-to...ompressor.html

Other ideas for install appreciated. Other than that, I agree with everyone who says so, don't use coil compressors to remove front coil springs. Now to figure out how to remove ball joints.

Nice work so far, keep it up, It's funny I looked at your last pics with the engine was still in and I was going to say make sure you pull the front springs before the engine. You'll need the weight to compress the springs. It's an easy job once done, once.
Good on ya, Derek

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Nice work so far, keep it up, It's funny I looked at your last pics with the engine was still in and I was going to say make sure you pull the front springs before the engine. You'll need the weight to compress the springs. It's an easy job once done, once.
Good on ya, Derek

Thanks......Live and learn. I didn't think to double check how to remove ball joints. I'd heard drill bits did the trick, which they do, but "next time" I grind or cut the tops off with and air chisel, and use the air chisel to punch them out.

[ghalperin]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Thanks......Live and learn. I didn't think to double check how to remove ball joints. I'd heard drill bits did the trick, which they do, but "next time" I grind or cut the tops off with and air chisel, and use the air chisel to punch them out.

When I did my frame, I removed over 60 rivets. I have a Snap-On air hammer and used a new Snap-On chisel bit. It cuts the rivet heads off like butter. After cutting off the heads, I’d swap out the chisel bit for a punch bit and knock out the rivet. Easy peasy. Wear headphones and apologize to the neighbors afterwards.