Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[El Campo]

I like the way you are thinking with the intake etc! Will be anxiously waiting to see it.

[68GMCCustom]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Not really, intake is $600 and four new carbs are $13-1400. So only around $2k for the main components- just need linkage, filters, and fuel lines to be complete. Way cheaper than 8 stack EFI with 100% of the performance. Other than cold start ups, the IR intake/Dellorto carbs on my VW run as smooth as the LS2 in my sisters TBSS and have 1000x better throttle response. The two minutes of running smooth at start up isn't worth spending 2k+ more for EFI. It's an old truck, it's supposed to have some quirks!

I'm going to make my own linkage and the filter will be in the hood... Going to make an air box in the hood to seal down on the carbs.
Posted via Mobile Device

http://www.jegs.com/i/Borla/157/200067/10002/-1

I guess I was looking at the wrong one then. I could see the carb's being cheaper then a efi setup...but $13k vs $2500 is a big difference. The Borla setup is almost $13k and I thought the Inglese was too.

[jcramsey]

Wow...can't wait to see how that engine turns out with that intake and those carbs. Very interested in how it will perform!

[Frizzle Fry]

IR intakes (EFI or Carb'd) are cool as hell!

[JR25]

I definitely want to see this in person! I have a No Limit rack on my 55 with the solid front axle. Their craftsmanship seems to be good, dont have the truck on the road yet, so I cant comment on how well this particular rack performs.

How far are you from the mall? I work at the old Lowes building across the street from there. (Active duty with the National Guard)
Posted via Mobile Device

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by jhrusk

very cool

Originally Posted by pdxhall

I'm glad you're able to get back to work on the truck. I've been patiently waiting.

Originally Posted by El Campo

I like the way you are thinking with the intake etc! Will be anxiously waiting to see it.

Thanks dudes!

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

http://www.jegs.com/i/Borla/157/200067/10002/-1

I guess I was looking at the wrong one then. I could see the carb's being cheaper then a efi setup...but $13k vs $2500 is a big difference. The Borla setup is almost $13k and I thought the Inglese was too.

Yeah the EFI cost is crazy! I couldn't afford that, and wouldn't want it if I could. I can't adjust/tune efi with a screwdriver and wrench.

Originally Posted by jcramsey

Wow...can't wait to see how that engine turns out with that intake and those carbs. Very interested in how it will perform!

You and me both, I have dual two barrels on IR intakes on my 90 HP '64 VW bug and the throttle response in 1-2 gears is near violent! I can't imagine what it would be like with 500+ hp!

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

IR intakes (EFI or Carb'd) are cool as hell!

Yes they are! Not only looks but they perform soooo much better.

Originally Posted by JR25

I definitely want to see this in person! I have a No Limit rack on my 55 with the solid front axle. Their craftsmanship seems to be good, dont have the truck on the road yet, so I cant comment on how well this particular rack performs.

How far are you from the mall? I work at the old Lowes building across the street from there. (Active duty with the National Guard)
Posted via Mobile Device

We're right off 28 bypass behind Westside High. Come over some time and take a look! You might know my brother Chris Glenn, he's in the Guards.

[theastronaut]

The No Limit Rack came today, looks to be a very well thought out kit. Next purchase will probably be the intake; definitely want to get my hands on one of those while they're availble. I imagine they're a pretty low production part so I'm worried about how long they'll be available.





Also bought another cluster to restore/flip. These things are addictive!

[duallyjams]

But you make the cluster resto look easy.

[theastronaut]

Just threw the rack kit on to check clearances... there's not enough room to raise the crossmember 1.5" like I'd wanted to unless I can find a smaller harmonic balancer. The only other option would be to raise the engine, but that would mean swapping to a high hump floor. I really don't want to raise the engine up since that would raise the center of gravity. I can't move the engine back any farther to get the pulley behind the rack either; it's already against the firewall pretty tightly. Anyone know of a smaller diameter balancer?


I know the rack is in crooked, forgot the donut bushing to center it in the passenger side mount.

[duallyjams]

That's hot rodding, one thing leads to another, changing to smaller one going to change the ratio of all the accessories and moving the engine forward will give you unwanted nose weight. With your skills move the fire wall and move the engine back, I know you didn't plan on doing it but you can do it.

[theastronaut]

I did some more looking around and found a chart that shows the depth of different factory pulleys. Vette balancers only stick out from the front cover 2 1/8", that may be enough to get it behind the rack. The one that's on it now isn't seated all the way either, I'll measure and see if a Vette balancer will fit.
Posted via Mobile Device

[jdoisher]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I did some more looking around and found a chart that shows the depth of different factory pulleys. Vette balancers only stick out from the front cover 2 1/8", that may be enough to get it behind the rack. The one that's on it now isn't seated all the way either, I'll measure and see if a Vette balancer will fit.
Posted via Mobile Device

If the vette balancer works let me know, I have a new Trick Flow that I can not use, I threw away the box. 150.00 and its yours.
Jason

[JR25]

The hardest part of rebuilding my engine that I ran into was pulleys! But at least you have a thousand options with your engine! Look on Summit Racing, and have fun!
Posted via Mobile Device

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by jdoisher

If the vette balancer works let me know, I have a new Trick Flow that I can not use, I threw away the box. 150.00 and its yours.
Jason

Appreciate the offer! I found a 6.2" diameter 25% underdrive balancer that should fit.

Originally Posted by JR25

The hardest part of rebuilding my engine that I ran into was pulleys! But at least you have a thousand options with your engine! Look on Summit Racing, and have fun!
Posted via Mobile Device

Yeah there is so much available for the LS engines, I'm used to VW's where they've mostly been using the same aftermarket parts for 10-15+ years!

[theastronaut]

Found a vid of a LS3 crate engine with IR EFI. They haven't tuned it yet so it won't idle, but the throttle response and sound is ridiculous!

Driftworks V8 AE86 Moves for the first time -...

[LoRollinLS]

that thing sounds nutz! can't wait to hear it in your truck!

[TommyDuncan]

I used to work at a high end engine shop. We built mostly trophy truck engines which have almost no rules engine wise, other than they have to be naturally aspirated and no nitrous.
We mostly built big, injected small blocks. Usually around 430 cubic inches and 850 horsepower. They actually had to tune some of the throttle response out of them for driveability reasons. Getting knocked around flying through the desert made it hard to ease the throttle...
ironically these engines almost always made a tad more power on the dyno with a carburetor. In a drag race the injected motor would probably win though.
We also built a few IR injected all aluminum FE big blocks for brand new Shelby Cobras. One was 500+cid(I think it was a 513... been a few years) with a belt driven supercharger.
Posted via Mobile Device

[theastronaut]

I moved the frame into the shop after work today to get started on raising the crossmember 1.5". First order of business was to do some housekeeping.








With the critters exiled, I layed out a rough cut line. I don't like that I'm going to lose the upper two mounting points above the upper control arm studs. Gotta find a way around that. This is with the frame flipped upside down, they're the bottom two holes. They'll be right at the upper frame flange, and there's no way to relocate the hole in the crossmember any lower. I do want to drop the upper control arm studs .5" for a better camber curve, so that may drop the holes back down into the side of the frame rails. I might be able to squeeze a couple smaller diameter bolts in there then, but it would be super close.

I'm also thinking about dropping the lower rail (upper in pic) 1.5", then cutting out the whole center of the frame rail and filling it with flat plate so I can make clean mounting holes. There's no way to cut 1.5" out without butchering the holes like I have layed out here. I'd rather just section the crossmember itself, but then the R&P mount wouldn't fit.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by LoRollinLS

that thing sounds nutz! can't wait to hear it in your truck!

I can't wait either!

Originally Posted by TommyDuncan

I used to work at a high end engine shop. We built mostly trophy truck engines which have almost no rules engine wise, other than they have to be naturally aspirated and no nitrous.
We mostly built big, injected small blocks. Usually around 430 cubic inches and 850 horsepower. They actually had to tune some of the throttle response out of them for driveability reasons. Getting knocked around flying through the desert made it hard to ease the throttle...
ironically these engines almost always made a tad more power on the dyno with a carburetor. In a drag race the injected motor would probably win though.
We also built a few IR injected all aluminum FE big blocks for brand new Shelby Cobras. One was 500+cid(I think it was a 513... been a few years) with a belt driven supercharger.
Posted via Mobile Device

I've always heard that drag racing VW engines made more peak hp with carbs vs EFI. Carbs are able to better atomize the fuel at WOT, I think.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I moved the frame into the shop after work today to get started on raising the crossmember 1.5"....
...With the critters exiled, I layed out a rough cut line. I don't like that I'm going to lose the upper two mounting points above the upper control arm studs. Gotta find a way around that. This is with the frame flipped upside down, they're the bottom two holes. They'll be right at the upper frame flange, and there's no way to relocate the hole in the crossmember any lower. I do want to drop the upper control arm studs .5" for a better camber curve, so that may drop the holes back down into the side of the frame rails. I might be able to squeeze a couple smaller diameter bolts in there then, but it would be super close.

I'm also thinking about dropping the lower rail (upper in pic) 1.5", then cutting out the whole center of the frame rail and filling it with flat plate so I can make clean mounting holes. There's no way to cut 1.5" out without butchering the holes like I have layed out here. I'd rather just section the crossmember itself, but then the R&P mount wouldn't fit.

John, I sent you a PM response. From you pic, those upper to holes should end up completely above the top flange of the frame rail on yours. If so, weld on a "tab" to run the bolts thru or weld on a couple of threaed blocks for a bit a a cleaner look.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by aggie91

John, I sent you a PM response. From you pic, those upper to holes should end up completely above the top flange of the frame rail on yours. If so, weld on a "tab" to run the bolts thru or weld on a couple of threaed blocks for a bit a a cleaner look.

Thanks for the PM, that confirms what I was thinking. I didn't really want to do anything above the rail since the inner fenders don't cover that spot, but if I have to then I have to.

[theastronaut]

Got one side roughed in tonight. I decided to cut all the holes out and just use plate to fill in the sides. Should look cleaner when it's done that way.


Laid out more precise cut lines.




Cut out.





Welded back in place. I need to get some plate steel to fill in the hole.






I mentioned earlier that I was doing some wheel and suspension changes on the VW. Just got the thin porta-walls in today. I built the front wheels using 15x5.5 Porsche 911/912 steel rims, and welded in the VW centers. The rears will be 7" made by welding 3" bands into the original 4" wheels. Gotta get adjustable rear spring plates to lower it a little more, pick out tires, and paint the rear wheels. Need a mild rear sway bar too. If I can get it all done in time I want to take it to Goodguys Charlotte and try out the autocross track.

[duallyjams]

went to the Rodder Journal show at Pimlico
this was the only VW on the grounds

there were a lot of induction of all kinds, these were the two really impressive ones

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Got one side roughed in tonight. I decided to cut all the holes out and just use plate to fill in the sides. Should look cleaner when it's done that way.

Killer work on the frame.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Gotta get adjustable rear spring plates to lower it a little more, pick out tires, and paint the rear wheels. Need a mild rear sway bar too. If I can get it all done in time I want to take it to Goodguys Charlotte and try out the autocross track.

I never heard of adjustable spring plates, is that something new? I always lowered or raised by adjusting the rear spring plates. You would need a protractor to be accurate on both sides.