S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Sorry, here are the pics.

[joedoh]

I looked today and with a 7" rearward move there is a comfortable 2" more, and 3 inches if you clearance slightly for the passenger side head.



I am doing a 41 on S10 right now and I am going to try 9.5" and a std cab driveshaft.

[skymangs]

Okay, sounds good. Let us know how that works out for you.

[tlorber]

Does anyone know if there is a thread/information on gauge options that work with LS conversions? I'd like to know what manufacturers make gauges that have an old school look but work with GM+LS setups. I know my options are more limited (with a one year GMC) than I would be with a Chevy, but I'm at the point where I need to make a decision.

[skymangs]

Pretty much any electronic gauge will work. I've started making my own. I start with Speedhut most basic 80 mph Speedo. And I cut out the backing of they gauge. Then they have a custom faceplate made at my graphics shop. Then I simply put the Speedhut gauge in the hole looks just like factory. You could also send your gauge to Redline and they will convert your stock gauge into a new electronic one. But it'll cost you like $500. That's what I had done on Rico's 54 build.

[HUSSEY]

Never heard of Speedhut gauges, took a peek at their website and wow...cool outfit. Lots of selections and dropdown to custom design your own gauges.

The OBD2 Can Bus gauges are really cool. Not sure if the GM protocol is compatible but simply plugging into your OBD2 plug couldn't get any easier for gauge hook-up.

[reaper71]

I have used 5 sets of Speedhut gauges so far with the GPS speedo and will never go back!
The gauges are much thinner than other companies and you can make them completely custom to fit your taste Just My Opinion.

Mark...

[tlorber]

Thanks for the input, guys. I have opted to go with VDO gauges. They have a series called Heritage Chrome, which looks pretty old school and similar to the stock gauges that I have. Speedo is compatible with the 4L60E transmission. They come with the required sensors and the place I am buying them from will provide the adapter bushing for the oil pressure sensor to fit into the LS block. Their fuel gauge requires a sender that operates from 10-180 ohms, and they provide that with the kit. However, rather than opening the tank back up, I read that there is an adapter that converts the post '67 GM sender's signal (which goes from 0-90 ohms) to one that he VDO and others can understand. I'll report back when they arrive and I've had a chance to mess around with them.

[skymangs]

Sorry, this took so long. I am in the middle of moving from Missouri to Iowa. I have never seen an adapter that converts the ohms from 0–30 to 10–180 ohms. I thought convertors were a thing of myth. And I hate to tell you by the year break is 64. 64 and older is 0–30 ohms. While 65 and newer were 0–90 ohms. You'll have to open that tank.

[tlorber]

If you search online for "Fuel Gauge Interface Module" you will see what I am talking about. Speedway motors makes one that is supposedly infinitely adjustable but it is $126.00. I'm hoping to just find a preset one for cheaper that will convert the S10 signal to the VDO gauge.

[reaper71]

That is one major reason I use the Speedhut gauges they can be calibrated for any sending unit on the market, It comes with the cable you plug in the back and program as needed then remove cable.

[b-mac]

Reaper, I was going to ask you what size of those speedhut gauges you used on your AD build, but then I checked out the build page. Wow...Amazing work!

Question remains...would the 4.5" gauges work, and look ok in a stock dash. I don't like it when it looks like there is too much bezel. Like you scabbed something in.
Anyone else used them in a stock dash?

[reaper71]

To answer that question, I believe the stock opening is 4 5/8" and the Speedhut are a true 4 1/2 (mounting is 4 1/4) so you would not have a ton of space around the bezel and the dash opening.
For a reference you could cut out 2 4 1/2 circles from cardboard or poster board and set in the hole to get a visual.
If you did like the way it looks make a plate that is attached from the backside of dash I.E welded or bolted and drop your gauges through the hole (i used 3 3/8" gauges do to a custom built dash) Thank's for the compliments BTW!

The other way you could make up the space is weld a ring to the inside of opening and drop the gauge through (use round bar) just spit balling
That being said they are a super nice gauge and can be fully customized to fit your taste and again can be programmed to suite your needs..(NO I dont work for them )

hope this helps..
Mark...

[Texasbuggys]

Post #174 what size wheel and tires front and rear? Offset front and rear? Spacers front and rear and rear end? 2wd or 4x4? Thanks

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Texasbuggys

Post #174 what size wheel and tires front and rear? Offset front and rear? Spacers front and rear and rear end? 2wd or 4x4? Thanks

the wheels on the front are 15 X7 on a 4 inch B.S. and the ones on the rear are 15 X8 on a 4.5 inch B.S. the tires on the front are 22560R15 and rears are 25560R15. There are 2 inch spacers in the front, and only a 4 x 4 reread in the back.

[dettmer13]

As far as exhaust and headers go, has anyone been able to use long tubes? I'd really like to use them. I've used the trans dapt motor mounts, and I'm using a 5.3L. I'm also looking at the block hugger Hooker headers as well. Any input here would be greatly appreciated.

[tlorber]

I used a set from Classic Performance Products that fit pretty well. You can see them on my thread. They did require me to re route the steering shaft around them slightly.

[b-mac]

Don't know if you want to run headers. My stock SUV manifolds from my 5.3 are going to fit perfectly.

[tlorber]

Do any of you guys have pictures on where your wiring exits the cab to feed the back of the truck (lights, fuel pump etc.)? I'm looking for ideas.

Thanks.

[HUSSEY]

Here's mine.

I used gromments I picked up at McMaster Carr by Kennard Industries. They're really pipe grommets but they the perfect amount of stretch to them. Being they were so cheap and not knowing exactly what I would need I order an assortment of them.

Pick them out based on the tube size. I then used a step drill bit to drill the holes for them.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#pipe-seali...mmets/=15rtocw

Half of these wires went to the front and half to the back. There's a few more photos in my build thread.

[big_moss]

Does anyone have the measurement from the s10 front bed mount to axle center I'm about to draw up a custom back half for my air ride in the rear just wondering if anyone has the measurement. Thanks for any input

[HUSSEY]

I like a search challenge.



Found here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...g-jpg.1396476/

[99 to Life]

hahah I was going to post the same photo. I have the frame all vectorized and also an AD body vectorized, all to scale. So I can test fit things on the computer if need be. Was going to make a bunch of blue prints, but I like to keep that stuff off then net. The info on here is great, but too much play by play makes alot of people lazy. I get alot of people asking for info and aren't too appreciative or... are to expecting of the info. The swap craze and the bolt on stuff is putting alot of trucks back on the road, but also making alot of guys not learn the many aspects of building, not to mention safety.

[frankist]

Quick question -
I have a 49 gmc long bed, but after searching, Im afraid I have a later (year) cab due to having shackles holding the cab in the rears.

By having the shackles I opted not to use the bushing to fit in between the c brace which runs underneath the cab, but instead welding a 4x4 1/4 plate on the c brace. Ive got the cab on the frame and it looks great, but am wondering if the bottom line of the cab should run parallel with the frame?

It looks raked to me by about 2 inches too tall on the rear. Ive used version one cab mount designs, and am utilizing stock s10 body mounts.

If anyone has a picture of their cab on frame it would be very appreciative. Or if someone can check on their finished build whether or not the cab rest on a parallel line with respect to the frame. Thanks guys.

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by frankist

Quick question -
I have a 49 gmc long bed, but after searching, Im afraid I have a later (year) cab due to having shackles holding the cab in the rears.

By having the shackles I opted not to use the bushing to fit in between the c brace which runs underneath the cab, but instead welding a 4x4 1/4 plate on the c brace. Ive got the cab on the frame and it looks great, but am wondering if the bottom line of the cab should run parallel with the frame?

It looks raked to me by about 2 inches too tall on the rear. Ive used version one cab mount designs, and am utilizing stock s10 body mounts.

If anyone has a picture of their cab on frame it would be very appreciative. Or if someone can check on their finished build whether or not the cab rest on a parallel line with respect to the frame. Thanks guys.

I had a similar problem since my floor was completely gone, and I made my own floor, bracing, and mounts. I made the bottom of the cab parallel to the bottom of the frame, which should also make your running boards level with the frame.