Post Your Straight Six Pics!

[VWNate1]

Try your local Detroit Diesel Parts Dealer , they have the correct color in Foo-Foo cans , if you take the time to strip the engine accessories and mask it before painting , it'll look very good and this paint lasts for decades , not cheap though .

[70STOVEBOLT]

Has anyone put a 2 bbl carb on a stock manifold using an adapter plate, rather than a 4 bbl? Would like to see pics of this.

[shok]

I'd be a little worried with the fuel filter there, if it leaks it right over the exhaust. I could be paranoid tho.
Is that a stock rad or one from another car?
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[skorpioskorpio]

Here's the one that'll be going in my Jimmy:

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by skorpioskorpio

Here's the one that'll be going in my Jimmy:

4.2? I would like to see a conversion build with this engine going into one of our trucks.

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

4.2? I would like to see a conversion build with this engine going into one of our trucks.

Yes, it's a 4.2 a 2008 engine. It's going to be a 6 stack ITB engine. Here's the build thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=570856

[50bomb]

Originally Posted by shok

I'd be a little worried with the fuel filter there, if it leaks it right over the exhaust. I could be paranoid tho.
Is that a stock rad or one from another car?
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Good point there. Gonna have to move it to other side? I bought the radiator off a member here and its a 4 core. He did say its for 67-72 chevy truck. Seems right to me.

[VWNate1]

WRONG ! .

Just before the carby inlet is the preferred location for fuel filters .

I've been operating vehicles since the 1960's and never had a fuel fire because of this yet .

.

[chuck69ss]

Pretty close to how she rolled off the line in 1968.

[RichardJ]

Actually you're wrong. The preferred location is before the fuel pump so that it keeps the dirt out of there as well. There is already a rubber hose at that location so you are not cutting any steel lines to install the filter.

At one time, a lot of guys liked the aftermarket glass inline filters. I have seen a few of those , as far back as the 60's, with broken glass and the engines did catch on fire.

[VWNate1]

No ;

I am not wrong ~ you are .

fuel filters must never be placed before the pump .

Only the cheapo aftermarket pumps ever had this foolish idea .

[longbed67]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

No ;

I am not wrong ~ you are .

fuel filters must never be placed before the pump .

Only the cheapo aftermarket pumps ever had this foolish idea .

I'm not questioning you here but before a pissing match starts here and this gets shut down, I would like to know the reasoning behind why a filter must not be placed before the pump? I understand that it will create a small flow restriction but what damage would this cause?

[VWNate1]

Hi Adam ;

I hope you accept my abject apology , being old also means being a grumpy jerk occasionally .

To answer your question :

Fuel pumps are designed to push fuel not pull it so adding the filter before the pump , causes low flow problems long before it actually kills the pump .

If you look at carburated engines , you'll seldom if ever find one with the OEM fuel filter placed before the pump .

I'm only a Mehanic not an Engineer so when my Engineer buddies tried to explain the hows & whys of this to me 50 years ago , I didn't get it so I just accepted it and have not suffered the typical fuel pump issues the folks who run pre pump filters so often do .

I hope this helps...

[shok]

I recently read up some on this and it seems if you put a filter before the pump it's a different micron size, this was for an all aftermarket fuel system tho.
As long as you have the filter between the pump and the carb what does it matter if it's not right next to the carb?
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[longbed67]

taking out a cylinder would cause it to run a little rougher. Did you gap your points when you changed it out? That could be your culprit. If there is nothing wrong there, try making a different wire for it and give it a go again.

[50bomb]

gapped them all at .35

[VWNate1]

Did you ever do a compression test ? .

My bet is , two plug wires are swapped , this is super easy to do .

Even with only 60 # in the affected cylinder , it should clear right out and run smoothly if slowly , once you get it above 2,000 RPM's .

I'd suggest a compression test before anything else .

Lucky for you , the firing order and thusly the sequence of how the plug wires go , is not only dead simple , it's easy to remember and check as well :

The firing order is simple , just think of WOMEN : it is : 1 , 5 , 3 , 6 , 2 , 4

So ;

15 is TOO YOUNG

36 is TOO OLD

24 is JUST RIGHT

To check , hand rotate the engine until the timing line on the crank damper pulley is *exactly* lined up with the TDC mark .

Now , carefully remove the dizzy cap and see where the point of the rotor is facing , it'll be lined up either with the # 1 or # 6 plug wire .

If it's pointing at the # 1 plug wire , remove that wire and replace the dizzy cap when follow the rest of the plug wires around in the firing order : 1,5,3,6,2,4 ~ if one or two are out of order, swap them around until they're all correct , re install the # 1 plug wire and start it up , if it now idles on all 6 cylinders , you're almost done , get out your timing light and set the timing to TDC ~ 7° BTDC and you're done , feel and enjoy the increased [power .

If , OTOH , the point on the Dizzy was facing the # 6 plug wire , don't panic , just rotate the engine one full turn (360°) to TDC again , it'll now be lined up with the # 1 plug wire , go back and check the plug wire order .

I wish I was retired as I'd come sort this out for you ~ it's fairly simple and once you've done it , you'll get it .

I gotta go ! SWMBO says I have to drive her to the Market .

[50bomb]

Compresson test 1: 120, 2: 125, 3: 105, 4: 130, 5: 105, 6: 110

[ole dollor]

that's not the best, but it should run o k with all firing properly , check plugs and wires, and cap...

[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by 50bomb

Compresson test 1: 120, 2: 125, 3: 105, 4: 130, 5: 105, 6: 110

That's plenty to make it run smooth as silk .

Keep us posted please .

[shok]

There is a Toyota motor based on a Chevy inline 6? What's its designation? I want to read up on this.
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[pritch]

Originally Posted by shok

There is a Toyota motor based on a Chevy inline 6? What's its designation? I want to read up on this.
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I used to have one in a Land Cruiser, a 70 or 71, I can't remember exactly. All I know is that chevy tune up parts worked and a water pump, too. Much cheaper than Toyota partsI'm pretty sure everything that didn't require metric threads would interchange.

Here's Wiki's view:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_F_engine

[shok]

Thanks for the link, interesting read. I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I get one of those toyotas as a fixer upper project
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[50bomb]

When I am not driving the 67 chevy truck I am driving my dad's 89 toyota 4runner. It has a 4 cylinder. Fun lil thing to drive. BUT I STILL LOVE GM STRAIGHT SIXES MUCH MUCH MORE!

[VWNate1]

Toyota bought the rights to the 235 engine in 1963 , I have an old magazine that talks about it ~

At the time , the Auto World was all abuzz about the new GM Corporate thinwall construction L6 engine that was also used in Pontiacs , Buicks and so on , albeit in different displacements than Chevy used .

As mentioned , many parts were interchangable , fuel pumps too but the Toyota guys all insist otherwise .

Thinwall L6 engines are very susceptible to lack of routine hot oil changes , unlike the earlier235's .

They died in droves when only 3 years old . the cylinders would wear severely or get badly tapered and although the engine still ran fine , they smoked terribly and the vehicles were not worth the $300 repair of boring the block so most were scrapped .