1957 Chevy truck re-rebuild

[Stepside Jim]

As with many others this project is one large project consisting of a whole bunch of small ones. Tonight I'm focusing on an area that I've many others ponder what to do with the exposed wires and steering column mounting clamp when using a GM column.

I had an idea of what I wanted but couldn't picture in my head a good design so I built, then modified.

My original idea, something that went covered the area.



From the pics above I smoothed the edges and rounded the bottom. I made a upper plate that will go above the column to cover the top half up to the dash of the truck.


Finally satisfied with the design I sand blasted then used a thin layer of glazing putty to smooth the surface, after the putty came epoxy primer and high build primer. Then a final block sanding and ready for paint.


Same process for painting, clearing and cut and buffing.


I'm still piecing the dash parts together to confirm everything is still gonna fit after painting. Without a cover under the column, exposed wires and holding clamp.


Cover now in place, no clamp, no wires.


A look from the other side.


I've found these flat stainless washers that have a thin layer of rubber on one side, I really like them, I can tight up against the painted surfaces and not damage the paint.

This is where the build thread and all the pictures come together, it's gonna be fun taking pictures from the last couple of years and combine them for a before and after story.

[Bomp]

Really like that column cover. That is Slick

[tune_1]

Thanks for posting. I like the attention to detail and how you solved a problem. Like the work.

Dwight

[greystoke]

That looks sweet, where is it attached at?

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by greystoke

That looks sweet, where is it attached at?

First, thanks everybody, like I mentioned, it seems these exposed wires and clamp is an eye sore for everyone, I knew somehow I was going to get them taken care of, I just had to keep trimming and reshaping my original piece.

As for mounting it I simply welded a web/gusset on the main column clamp, then drilled 2 holes and used rubber well nuts that have a regular metal nut with in them. Once tightened they hold well, when loose, they allow a little wiggle room.


Ok, for the attaching nut on the lower side you have to realize the main clamp in the picture above has slotted mounting holes, what I found was, each time I removed and re-tightened the main clamp, the distance changed from the clamp mounting holes to the lower mounting holes, grrrrrrr, then I had to force the bolts in place. And no, loosening the main clamp and attaching the cover first was not an option, once the cover is in place, I can't get to the main clamp bolts to tighten them after the cover is on..

Notice the lower mounting holes, I made drop brackets holding the nuts. Now if the distance changes, I can simply bend the bracket slightly to move the nut where I need to so the holes in the cover match the lower mounting nuts.



Yes, I know, sometimes I tend to complicate things, on the other hand, I'd rather foresee an issue during mock-up, than fight something after painting.

[Kim57]

That's real nice.
I may have to copy it when I get there on mine.
Kim

[Nev68]

Good job on the steering column cover. Nice touch

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'm surprised no one has yet offered (as far as I know) a cover like this commercially given all the trucks like ours with aftermarket modern steering columns.

PS: What's the third switch hole on the left side of the column for?

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

I'm surprised no one has yet offered (as far as I know) a cover like this commercially given all the trucks like ours with aftermarket modern steering columns.

PS: What's the third switch hole on the left side of the column for?

Hi Dan, it seemed like quite a distance between the two switch holes that were there visually. Then I had the left over holes from the aftermarket radio panel so I had the perfect piece to weld in there.

The far left hole is for the headlight switch, the far right hole is for a manual choke cable and the new center hole is for a master switch for switches I will have in the front of the center counsel between the seats. There will be the individual switches for the exhaust cut outs, line lock and nitrous.

By having a master switch for these items I don't have to worry about anybody messing around without my permission.

[Stepside Jim]

Since the steering column is the focus right now I figure I'd put together a batch of pictures showing the column going from an ignition switch and automatic transmission lever column to a dash switch/floor shifter column.

It seems to be from a 1978 or newer mid-sized GM. I'm guessing the interior was blue.

The hacksaw and rotary brr is gonna place a part here. Here goes the column shifter mount.


Next up is the ignition switch mount. Once I disassembled the upper part of the column I was able to hold this in the vise and cut off the mount for the switch.



Sorry for the bad pics here.... but I used the rotary brr to cut a recess in both the switch opening and the shifter opening.


Then for both areas I cut a thin piece of aluminum that fit the recessed areas.


Then using JB weld I glued the aluminum plates in place, then once the plates were dried I scuffed the whole area and used more JB weld to fill and smooth the areas.


Once the ares were filled an leveled, then the appropriate primers were used before paint.

This column had a column dimmer switch but I didn't want it due to the fact that it was seen on the lower part of the column. My lower cover could have covered it but it would have a bulge that I felt would look bulky.
Since the turn signal switch moved up and down and side to side it had a large opening were the lever came out, I had to cover part of the opening.

I glued in a piece of black plastic in a lower piece.


Now when the column pieces are slid together, the plastic extends upward to cover much of the opening except for where the lever needs to move up and down.


I bought Billet Specialties tilt and turn signal handle kit, problem was, it was for the earlier column, not the 1978 and later, I was able to use the outer handles from the kit but had to cut an thread 1/4" stainless rod to get the right length and angle for this column.

There we are, a smooth column adapted for the truck.



In the end, if this column didn't come with the truck, I would have saved a ton of time getting an aftermarket column.

For anybody with a truck and having the switch and shiifter like I did and would like to adapt it, perhaps this write up will help.

[Baldeagle SR]

Jim nice work on the steering column. I need to do the same thing on an El Camino column that I am working on now. Rich

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by Baldeagle SR

Jim nice work on the steering column. I need to do the same thing on an El Camino column that I am working on now. Rich

Rich, I knew I posted the information for someone, hehe.
There is one cool thing about this steering column that I don't think the aftermarkets offer, you can still use the steering wheel locking devise. Instead of using the key switch that inturn rotates a gear assembly that pushes up the pin that locks the steering wheel and at the same time pushes a rod downward that operates the electrical ignition switch lower on the column that we have removed in this case.

By using the rod that comes down to operate the electric ignition switch we can push it up and down to operate the steering wheel lock. I added a bit of rod from the dimmer switch, then put a 90 degree bend to it. Then made a simple plate with two recessed areas to lock the rod into locked position and non lock position.

In the pics I have a piece of vacuum hose on the rod, later I'll change it to a vacuum hose cap. In the free position.


Now the locked position.


There, now at least we have a choice to have it locked or un-locked.

[Kim57]

Interior is looking great.
Nice fab work on the brake lines.
Kim

[87Lowrider]

Very nice...

[Baldeagle SR]

Very nice work Jim.
Rich

[hydrojunkie]

Good lord you have a lot of hours into making some kick arse parts. It's a killer truck bro. Kudos to you.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by hydrojunkie

Good lord you have a lot of hours into making some kick arse parts. It's a killer truck bro. Kudos to you.

Totally agree. Impressed!

[Stepside Jim]

Thanks everybody, after a couple of years of bodywork and fabrication it feels great seeing all the pieces start coming together.

[FarmerSid]

That's what sets apart a nice truck from a very nice truck.

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

That's what sets apart a nice truck from a very nice truck.

Thanks FarmerSid.

I finally finished the brake lines front to rear. I didn't fill it with brake fluid and bleed the system yet. Hopefully I will be painting most of the front of the truck in the next couple of weeks. By removing much of the brake system including the booster and master cylinder I have less parts to cover to keep over spray getting on them. I'm just glad to have everything fitted and formed for later.

Where many build their trucks and hide the master cylinder and accessories, I figured I'd whoop it up.

I've shown the booster, cylinder, proportioning valve and line lock, now to finish the metal brake lines. We've all seen where the factory will coil the metal line before it screws into the master cylinder. This procedure allows the metal line to flex as the body and frame flexes while driving down the road.

Using the coil line idea I got a piece of 2 1/4" exhaust pipe and start coiling the line.


With the two fronts I coiled them opposite of each other and the rear I coiled it to head in it's own direction.


Checking the clearance of the steering column I had to shape the lines slightly so the won't make contact, all in all the extra bends add to the detail of the lines.


Brakes....done.

[Baldeagle SR]

Nice work. and another step closer. Rich

[Kim57]

Those coiled brake lines look real nice.
Kim

[Stepside Jim]

Finally, the time has come for some exterior paint. In a fortunate turn of events I got a week off and the weather has been very cooperative.

I started on Sunday, very focused to get paint on much of the cab and forward. I started with 400 grit on all the panels to sand the feather fill primer. Once done and I approved all the finish on the panels I went to 600 grit for a final sanding.

Then came the taping and masking papering of all the paint work I've already done.


The I cleaned and cleaned with pre cleaner to remove left over sanding dust from the surface and all the cracks and crevices, all the time wearing rubber gloves, just the sweat and oil from your fingers can cause issues and fish eyes.

I took me 3 days to sand, mask, and clean. Finally time for sealer (slightly over reduced epoxy primer) one medium to wet coat.


I'm doing a two tone, but I need a pin stripe to split the two colors. I love the red pin stripe on the dash, so I spray two coats of red where I want to split the two tone.




I can honestly say, I didn't get much sleep this last week, I knew I was venturing into new territory for myself. I had so many options of how to paint all the pieces. I could jam everything, where I spray all the door jams then assemble and spray as one piece, or, be stubborn and do every piece separately.

I've had this truck together and apart perhaps 15 times now so I chose the hard way, I am gonna do this in pieces. Problem is, I have to have all the pieces together to lay out the pinstripe. So, Thursday morning sealer, Thursday afternoon, red paint, Thursday night, no sleep, Friday morning, assembly of the panels, then lay out the pinstripes.

Nervous, absolutely..... one panel at a time then the hood, should have had my Wheaties this morning. Yes, new socks, great for spacing, great for no scratching.


Time for a short break, relax, settle the heart rate.... I can't wear the rubber gloves for the pinstripe, the tape adhesive sticks to the gloves. The concern about the bare hands is, I can not use the pre cleaner to wash the panels anymore, the primer and paint is to fresh and will make a mess. With clean hands I start laying tape where I want the red to be when done.



Ok, whats up with all the extra tape??? The 1/4" is the direct split between the black and silver. The 1/8" is merely decorative, it will have black both on top and bottom of it. I wanted a 1/4" space between the two pinstripes, by putting small pieces of 1/4" tape between them I keep an accurate 1/4" between the two pinstripes. I will remove the small pieces before painting.

Once I got all the striping done I disassembled the truck and it was time for silver paint. The silver is the bottom color so it will be easier to mask it off. Also, if I sprayed the black first, then if I didn't mask it perfectly and some of the sparkle of the silver floated on to the black it would stand out more than if some black drifted onto some silver.

With this next picture I sprayed the silver, then after I sprayed the silver I had lunch. I ran the 1/8" pinstripe up over the headlights, the more I thought about it, I just couldn't leave it that way. Yes, I know, it looks good on the Batmobile. I'm looking for the black to be an authoritative/aggressive color and I feared the over the headlight pinstripe would remove some of the aggressive look I'm looking for. Once the silver dried I cut the tape then sanded the tape line. this is why you will see a red stripe going over the headlight. It will all be black so the red stripe will disappear later.


Once the silver dried it was masking time. In this case I taped to the 1/4" pinstripe line.





How cool is this that although I lived through this process this week, this is now a diary that I can relive the whole thing again.

It's getting long winded here. Tomorrow I'll start with the black.

[G&R's57GMC]

Lookin' Good ! Nice work, I like the red stripe splitting the colors.

BTW the coiled brake lines should be mounted vertically like the factory does, otherwise the potential is there to trap air in the top of the coils and cause a mushy peddle feel.

[Stepside Jim]

Originally Posted by G&R's57GMC

Lookin' Good ! Nice work, I like the red stripe splitting the colors.

BTW the coiled brake lines should be mounted vertically like the factory does, otherwise the potential is there to trap air in the top of the coils and cause a mushy peddle feel.

Hmmmmm. very good info on the brake lines, I shall keep that in mind.

Thanks.