Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Gregski:

Sorry I'm so slow with this. You're moving fast and I've been busy.

[...]

Nice progress. Jeez, I turn around, do a consulting assignment or two, and you are way down the road.

Rich I got to move fast cause word in this household is that dad has a two year burn out period (Motorcycle, drums, Mustang, sail boats, Rusty...) I honestly don't know what they is talkin'a bout... LOL

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Gregski:

Looks like you have the vacuum advance hooked to timed vacuum, up on the side of the carb. That's pollution nonsense. I remember when it was introduced in 1968 together with AIR pumps and cats and all. The previous 30 years vac advance was always connected to full manifold vacuum. So hook the vac advance to full manifold vacuum. It's down underneath in the front by the PCV port (see Fig 7 on Page 7 of your carb instructions here: http://documents.holley.com/199r10331rev2.pdf). This will give you advance at idle (which you should have), and will allow a leaner mix at idle and keep the carb in the idle circuit at idle. You THINK it idles nice now. Move the advance line and you will see how good it can be.

Rich believe you me, I fully intended to use full manifold vacuum (I may have even remembered an old post of yours) but when I looked at the Holley glossy page color instructions they showed three vacuum sources on the carb:

1. Full Manifold Vacuum source (Pump diverter valve or cruise control)

2. Full Manifold Vacuum Port (Power Brake or PCV)

3. Timed spark vacuum source (To distributor vacuum advance)
~ this be the one they skierd me into using ~

I just went back to look at my instructions again and that don't even look like my carburetor none, take a look at what would be page 3 (had they even numbered their pages)

http://documents.holley.com/199r10416rev.pdf

All in all I totally agree with you and will change my vacuum connection, thank you very much for your time to write down that advice.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Love your thread update style!

Thank you so much! Mom, mom is that you? jk

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Rich believe you me, I fully intended to use full manifold vacuum (I may have even remembered an old post of yours) but when I looked at the Holley glossy page color instructions they showed three vacuum sources on the carb:

1. Full Manifold Vacuum source (Pump diverter valve or cruise control)

2. Full Manifold Vacuum Port (Power Brake or PCV)

3. Timed spark vacuum source (To distributor vacuum advance)
~ this be the one they skierd me into using ~

I just went back to look at my instructions again and that don't even look like my carburetor none, take a look at what would be page 3 (had they even numbered their pages)

http://documents.holley.com/199r10416rev.pdf

All in all I totally agree with you and will change my vacuum connection, thank you very much for your time to write down that advice.

Huh. I thought I had found the correct instruction sheet for yours. Ah, well.

OK, so you have the brake booster hooked to the manifold. That's good.

Looks like the larger diameter connection for the PCV valve comes off the passenger side at the back of the carb, so you can run a 1-1/2" to 2" long line out to a 90, and then go back along the inside of the valve cover to another 90 and out to the PCV valve at the back of the passenger side valve cover. That will be clean and you won't have a big hose across the front of the engine.

The smaller manifold vacuum line comes off the front of the carb, but you can swing that around inside of the valve cover and back to the distributor. Maybe a 90 in that one too to help it around that corner at the front of the carb.

I don't recommend teeing the vac advance off the PCV line, as tempting as that will be. That PCV line will have oil and crap in it, and when you shut the engine off, you don't want that running down into your vac advance canister.

[Gregski]

today in the time it took me to enjoy a meatloaf sandwich the boyz at Lock n Key knocked out two door keys plus a spare ignition key for $17 bucks, I call that a Win Win

they fit beautifully and give me that click click sound

[Jake Wade]

Good deal, That's a bargain!

[Gregski]

I know I said I don't paint in the winter but it was near 70* F today (and as long as Greg doesn't read this) we can get this done

Ever since I saw this Dupli-Color Minute infomercial seventeen minutes and seventeen seconds into episode 3 of the Hot Rod Garage video on them there YouTubes I wanted to try painting my interior door panels, just to see if I can save a buck or two, that and if it works for David Freiburger it's good enuff fer me

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iIleaQjIz0

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by Gregski

today in the time it took me to enjoy a meatloaf sandwich the boyz at Lock n Key knocked out two door keys plus a spare ignition key for $17 bucks, I call that a Win Win

they fit beautifully and give me that click click sound

One is a left handed version and the other is a right handed version, didn't you notice that?

[Gregski]

as with any paint job the prep work is the key, in my case first the door panels had to pass the scratch test whilst still having enuff meat on em to paint

so your door panels may be chalky, that's ok, take a green scotch bright pad and a bucket of lightly soapy water and wash/scrub them as best as you can

give em another finger nail scratch test if they still leave a mark, take some sand paper, I think I used 1000 grit cause that's all I had, you can sand wet or dry but I did it wet to make the paper go further

rinse, lather, repeat, hose off the panels and give em another scratch test, till your finger nails don't leave a mark

then I let them dry over night

the next day I sprayed them with this Dupli-Color Prep-Spray wax n grease remover, you can use Denatured Alcohol (probly cheaper from Home Depot, but I didn't have any and was too lazy to hit two stores) do NOT use Acetone or Mineral Spirits they are greasy and used for different purposes, they penetrate and do not lift plus they can destroy plastic

so the key is good prep and then Light Coats, I went four coats 10 minutes apart, yes it was difficult waiting in between coats, so I used a timer and kept myself distracted with other little tasks on the truck and in the garage

here are the initial photos plus the results after each coat

[Jake Wade]

Looks Great!

[Gregski]

I know I said I will treat myself to all brand new interior parts for my truck but with stunning results such as these (assuming they hold up and not flake or fade) it's difficult to justify the $170 for a set of new panels plus $28 for Shipping & Handling

If we do the math, forget the cost of new panels, I paid $16 bucks for these two cans of material, that is less than the cost of shipping of the new panels, the shipping

just wanted to let you know that as the paint was getting low in the can I stood the panels up some for the fourth and final coat, I really need to discipline myself to paint things in the vertical and not horizontal position, word to the wise

also I know I should have waited at least 24 hours if not a couple days, but I just had to scratch them there things after painting, and so I did, and did the paint come off, Heck No, this stuff works

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Good deal, That's a bargain!

yes, they have fair prices and do amazing work, well worth the drive cross town

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

One is a left handed version and the other is a right handed version, didn't you notice that?

Ah yes of course, amiba-dextrus!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Looks Great!

Thanks Jake, I think so too, can't wait to fit them on the doors, wait one must, paint dry shall

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Ah yes of course, amiba-dextrus!

A man of many talents... a giant among men... a.. let me think... no, it will come to me... a... what were we talking about?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

A man of many talents... a giant among men... a.. let me think... no, it will come to me... a... what were we talking about?

LMAO I think I need a jump suit!

[greg64]

Looks great, Greg! What the heck are you doing painting today?

I bought new panels from LMC for my truck, in dark blue. The paint is scratching off them, so I might need to try your trick come summer. As a warning for others, the LMC panels have a base coat paint that seems pretty tough. But on top of that they put a crappy coat of the colour you actually wanted. Doesn't seem to stand up, but then, my truck is a work truck, not a show piece.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

Looks great, Greg! What the heck are you doing painting today?

I bought new panels from LMC for my truck, in dark blue. The paint is scratching off them, so I might need to try your trick come summer. As a warning for others, the LMC panels have a base coat paint that seems pretty tough. But on top of that they put a crappy coat of the colour you actually wanted. Doesn't seem to stand up, but then, my truck is a work truck, not a show piece.

good to know, what color is the base coat?

[greg64]

I'll have to check tomorrow when it's light out and see. Can't remember right now.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by Gregski

LMAO I think I need a jump suit!

ELVIS LIVES!

[Chaplain]

Dang G. Thanks for being our tester. Can't wait to get the point where you are.

[rusty76]

Looks great dude.

[LSX408]

Door panels turned out good!

[portrodder]

Door panels turned out great, going to have to try that on mine.

[Gregski]

well you all know I'm not the type to sit still so although our local weather forecast called for four days straight of rain, it is nice and sunny and dry as a bone today, just goes to prove that our local meteorologists can tell us with absolutely certainty what the weather was like yesterday

so after dropping 5 gallons of gas in the tank and going for a joy ride, the wrenches were calling to me... so I went after the kick panels