TA_C10: Stage 1

[TA_C10]

Update - Windshield Wiper Motor and Washer Pump


So I got this wired up, and it wasn't working. Started troubleshooting and when I attempted to unplug the wiper motor(front plug) it completely pulled one of the male spade connectors right out of the motor. So I shoved the spade back in the motor. I pulled the cover off and this is what I found. The motor winding is VERY exposed. Super cheap. But whatever. I soldered the wire back to the spade and made sure I got it fixed before I completely installed.

So the main reason it wasn't working was that it wasn't grounded. I went through a bunch of threads and found the info I needed. I ended up gounding the motor case and got all the plug wires correctly installed and it works as designed. I made a video while I had it apart to show how the motor and washer works with the switch.

Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKWSsBkrbA0


Here if you look close you can see the disconnected wire I yanked off.







Soldered the wire, and got all the plugs correct.





Switch connector.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I'm going to have to have a set of those...

I will post how they actually function when I get them properly adjusted and drive at night. So far, they aren't adjusted right, but driving around the neighborhood the low beam is awesome. They have a defined cutoff very similar to projection lenses. The high beams however, they didn't seem too bright to me but they are pointing down pretty badly so I need to get them right, then go drive down a dark road and see how they do.

More to come on these

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[MDPotter]

That is cheesy. You never know what you're going to get with aftermarket parts.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

That is cheesy. You never know what you're going to get with aftermarket parts.

The motor and pump was from LMC. Did you see the video? I thought it was pretty cool to see how it functions. It's old school technology, very mechanical. I love seeing how engineers built things back in the day. But then of course, these are reman units with cheap materials so they don't last i'm sure but maybe I will get lucky. Once it goes, maybe it will have a better replacement.

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[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

The motor and pump was from LMC. Did you see the video? I thought it was pretty cool to see how it functions. It's old school technology, very mechanical. I love seeing how engineers built things back in the day. But then of course, these are reman units with cheap materials so they don't last i'm sure but maybe I will get lucky. Once it goes, maybe it will have a better replacement.

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Sorry, didn't mean for it to sound like I was bashing it. Just interesting how those connectors are tied to the coil by a copper wire about the thickness of a human hair and that the connector came loose when you were working on it.

But yeah, when you dig into the mechanics of anything even these days they're really simple.

[TA_C10]

21 gallon burb tank from LMC. Side fill option gave me 2 extra gallons. Top fill is only 19 gallons I think. And after getting it set, it's still around 3-4 inches above the pumpkin for reference.


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[1971Stepside]

small garages suck...ask me how I know.

[TA_C10]

Found this info on LMC about their gas tanks. Top fill is only 17 gallons wow. Been almost 2 years since I spec'd the tank out and purchased... I wanted the largest tank I could find being my daily.

Gas Tank Dimensions:
17 Gallon: 12" H x 19" W x 30" L
21 Gallon: 13-1/2" H x 19" W x 30" L

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[cebra]

I have a 12 gallon Wrangler tank and drive around 450 miles per week, fill it up 2x a week which isn't bad. I had the Wrangler tank in when I had my 350, I had to fill it up every other day and that was a bit excessive.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

small garages suck...ask me how I know.

Yeah bro, sucks. So you share my pain of everytime you want to work on ANYTHING you have to open the door, unload a ton of things around the truck to even get access to it, then when your done, you have to clean up everything, then load it all back in garage...? And then some things are stored in attic, some things stored in tiny yard barn out back, and even more painful, sitting in yard out back that your wife snarls at everyday?

Yeah, that's what I have been doing for 2 years.... It's any wonder I'm not burnt out on this project yet...

Originally Posted by cebra

I have a 12 gallon Wrangler tank and drive around 450 miles per week, fill it up 2x a week which isn't bad. I had the Wrangler tank in when I had my 350, I had to fill it up every other day and that was a bit excessive.

Yeah good info, TY. 21 g's is gonna be awesome.

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[jjzepplin]

I read this a little way back when you started the thread. I got busy blah blah and wish I had subbed back then. It was a LONG read bit I got nothing but time right now. You are way above my skill level as well as budget. However I am learning tons from you and that truck sounds fabulous! Your wiring is sick. I am super sad about all of those pics missing! Anyway, I will follow along for the final finishing touches. Thanks for the detailed pics and explanations!

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

I read this a little way back when you started the thread. I got busy blah blah and wish I had subbed back then. It was a LONG read bit I got nothing but time right now. You are way above my skill level as well as budget. However I am learning tons from you and that truck sounds fabulous! Your wiring is sick. I am super sad about all of those pics missing! Anyway, I will follow along for the final finishing touches. Thanks for the detailed pics and explanations!

Thanks for the kind words sir. Yeah the pics thing is really a blow to the head.... But I plan to go back at some point and try and fix them all. I will at least fix the ones that would mean something to someone else. All the sheet metal work and crap like that I will fix last.

And for reference, I have never done anything like this before, not really. I seriously learned everything you see in my thread from research on the internet/books/videos. My stepfather was a mechanic however and he taught me a lot about those aspects, but I learned to weld, wire, and everything else on my own. So to say my skill level is above yours would be false brother, just get on the ol' interwebs and getter done!

[TA_C10]

Update - Sound/Heat Control, Carpet, High Hump

Well, I had to do it. Turns out when I flipped the trans crossmember, the 4l60e sat just a 1/8" too high. It was barely touching the floor. So I ordered a high hump and went to town. Traced around parimeter and holes. Drilled the holes first. Then cut out leaving about 1" of a flange. I just went down to Ace and used lock nuts and stage 5 bolts. Nothing fancy. I spray painted the edges I cut first. To seal the hump, I used some leftover window flashing. I cut strips of it and lined the outside edge. It's really thin stuff but because I already sprayed the floor with ceramic coating it had a texture. I also used a little permatex where I felt necesary.

Then I went to town with the sound deadner I picked up. If you don't remember, the PO already had some dynomat installed that I just sprayed over. All the sheet metal I replaced however I used the new stuff. And the final test, YES, this stuff will stick to textured surfaces! It sticks really nice. Pretty happy about that. So I did my rear wall and all the way into corners of cab.

Then I topped this stuff off with some closed cell sticky back foam I found on amazon. It's 1/2 inch thick. It also provides sound dampning and heat control. Went all the way up the firewall and all the way up the back wall. And into the cab corners. Still need to finish up a few spots but I think this cab is gonna be super effecient in both sound and heat/ac.

Layed in the carpet that the PO already had, and dang, it had a floor shifter, and I thought he just had a slit cut, but nope, it was a huge hole... I may leave it for now, and get new carpet in stage II of this build....

Pay no attention to that door! That's for another post

[Kronald_70GMC]

Looks pretty damn good man! I like the foam you have there. Do you have any more info on it? Seems like it would be a good sound deadline for sure!

[MDPotter]

So what is left for stage 2?

[SCOTI]

One step forward, one step back, another forward.... Looks like good progress though. Was the tank interfering w/the bed floor support cross-member?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

Looks pretty damn good man! I like the foam you have there. Do you have any more info on it? Seems like it would be a good sound deadline for sure!

Found it on Amazon. Really good stuff for the price. 32sqft did the whole cab and them some.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-32-29s...5624165&sr=8-2

Originally Posted by MDPotter

So what is left for stage 2?

Hah, sounds funny doesn’t it... Well I’m more or less doing my stages in reverse I guess after what happened. I originally planned on fixing up the truck a little at a time while I drove it. But after I found the P.O. did a little fibbing and I didn’t catch it the truck was rotted out too badly and I tore it all the way down. And everybody knows once you get that far.....

So my new stage II is beefing up the engine and trans, Detroit tru trac rear posi, modern seamless glass all the way around, and a few other things.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

One step forward, one step back, another forward.... Looks like good progress though. Was the tank interfering w/the bed floor support cross-member?

Yeah tank sat too high. I thought it was ok, but even notching the bed rail wasn’t going to work. Now it’s almost level with frame. G2G.

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[TA_C10]

Trans Leaks

So the 4L60E has had more leaks than I care to deal with... But the good news is most of them were my fault and pertained to dealing with the external coolers and fittings. In the end I resolved all those with a little dab of the paste thread sealant. Good to go there. But then I went to change the oil in the truck. Jacked up the front end pretty high. And while I'm under there I noticed quite a puddle forming behind me. Trans was leaking out of the U-Joint from what I could tell.

Well low a behold, it was all me again. Turns out there are more than one type of Trans Yoke. And therefore more than one setup inside the tail shaft of the trans.... The yoke I bought had the weep hole in the end and the trans tail shaft didn't have any seals on the shaft itself. Wasn't setup for that. So I bought a tail shaft rebuild kit just in case.

Here is the tail shaft. The two grooves are setup for different seals. O-rings. I started out thinking my o-ring should be on the first groove. Wrong. It needed to be on the groove the red arrow is pointing to. But I didn't like it. The yoke after setting the driveshaft back in the differential, ended up pulling the yoke away from the o-ring just a bit. Didn't seem like it was going to seal. So I ended up using the large metal housing for the 4x4 truck setups. At least that is what I read they were typically used on. Good thing the kit came with everything.




I was pleasantly surprised again that the shop I bought this from, seeming a little shady, had already took care of all these maintenance areas. The even replaced the race up by the tailshaft seal. You can see how clean everything was. This one is the speed sensor with the grease still on it.






Got all this from Amazon. Some of it was a kit, 2 pieces I purchased separate from the kit.




Here is the housing I was talking about. If you look inside the top you can see the o-ring that sits here, then the o-ring sitting to the side of it I went ahead and installed back on the shaft in the slot(red arrow) you see in above pic.




Got it this far, then had to use a socket to drive it the rest of way on.






Fully seated and ready to go.




After I finished this, I jacked the truck back up and no leaks. Whew...


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[Kronald_70GMC]

Good stuff! Leaks suck

[TA_C10]

Got a big problem with my doors. I may have screw'd up again. Didn't fit my doors with rubber installed..... Rockers might be way off. Or maybe I'm just not doing this right. I put a post up in the parent forum...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=803661

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[TA_C10]

Update - Power Windows and Remote Power Locks

As many of you know, I am building this as my DD. So I wanted a lot of modern conveniences. Well I also didn't want to spend a million dollars either. So I went for the LMCTruck kits. God help me, I know your all going to say JUNK!! Well, I bought these a year ago before I did all the research so it's my fault. But I'm not crying about it, I am just moving forward. So I will be the judge here if they turn out to be junk, I will report back and let everyone know.

Power windows. This is a universal kit. Looks like they updated it from all the videos I found from other people so hopefully they fixed some issues. After I installed it, it seems like it works really good. I do not have any problems with it except for the "NON-STOCK, use the original door actuator" type of function but I guess that was the easiest method to build... Whatever.

Install took a couple of days, I wanted to make sure it was done right, hopefully get it square as possible so it works as good as I can get it. Well I think it went together pretty good.









Here are the switches it came with. I wanted to be able to control the passenger side too, you can't do that with those kits that utilize the original crank handle. So what I plan to do in Stage II is grab the 73-87 square body switches and swap these out. Should look pretty decent. From what I can tell the size of the hole for both the switches are very similar and the wiring is also similar so hopefully grafting in the squarebody switches will work out easily.




I did have a manufacturing flaw. One of the connections was soldered sloppy and it was soldered to the connection next to it(power and ground wires, black and red). So I had to heat the ground wire up, remove the sloppy solder, and re-solder it back cleanly. No problem. Fixed. No more blowing the fuse....




Here is a video of them working. I am playing with them quite a bit to show how tight and solid everything is and works.

https://youtu.be/AHVaevfThb4


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[TA_C10]

Update - Remote Power Door Locks

Here are the door locks. I ended up getting brand new door latches and actuators(inside door handle gear) because my originals were in bad shape. Installed no problem. They came with 2 keyless remotes. They don't look too bad. Eventually I will probably swap these out with a more advanced kit with remote start and alarm.

Here is video of them working. They are currently not powerful enough to unlock the door, even with brand new latches... I put a call into LMC to figure this out. They might not be strong enough. We shall see.

TA_C10

Pics:








Had to modify the door lock linkage. Just ground it down so the lock would fit. No big deal.

[MDPotter]

Thanks for the info. Our next project truck came with a power window kit, but not sure where it came from.

What do you mean when you say that you can't control the passenger side with the kits that utilize the original crank handle? And using an 87 switch instead of the switch that comes with the kit fixes that?

Don't you have holes in your inner door panels to fill in now? And don't the knurls on the window regulator stick out past the inner door panel?

[TA_C10]

My door lock kit: https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...-remote-access

My power windows kit: https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...wer-window-kit

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[1971Stepside]

So, you got the door/rocker figured out?