S10 Swap how to

[99 to Life]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[CoreyH]

Edited by Forum Staff
Just cleaning up unnecessary comments.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Please, let's don't ruin this excellent thread with bickering.
Now, back to the builds, okay?

[frankist]

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis without much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

[CoreyH]

Originally Posted by frankist

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis without much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

They make a s-10 v8 conversion header. They sell them on ebay, believe that's even what they're called.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by frankist

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

a stock f body manifold will clear, if you want to go the header route, I use Hooker cast. They really hug the block. And they only cost about $300

[skymangs]

CoreyH; I would think twice about using that 700R4, in order to realize the benefits of that 5.3, you will need a 4L60E trans.

Thank you Clay, that is why I made this thread. For the DIY guys. If you want to buy a kit, then by all means by a kit. But, don't come to me when it looks like crap. Wanting me to tell you how to fix it.

This thread is for serious builders, who want to build their trucks the right way the 1st time.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by skymangs

CoreyH; I would think twice about using that 700R4, in order to realize the benefits of that 5.3, you will need a 4L60E trans.

Personally, I don't think either transmission provides a benefit for the 5.3 unless you consider the ECM and it's ability to control the transmission.

If you're using the ECM from the 5.3 then yes I would agree that a 4L60E would be easier to get up and running, no need to hook up a T-V cable.

But, if you're going to a throttle body injection like the Holley Sniper or FI -Tech or with a carburetor then you could go with a 700R4, otherwise you will need a standalone transmission controller which run + $500. But, if you like the idea of being able to change shift points via your laptop then a 4L60E would be the way to go.

With the 700R4 you will need to hook up the T-V cable to the throttle body correctly and adjust it correctly, failing to do so will burn up your transmission.

So, in the end, I think it's really the builder that needs to weigh thier options to determine what best fits their needs, wants, and application.

[Atommik]

I've got a 1951 Chev on a 1991 s10 frame with a 1968 327 sbc. I'm going to replace the factory steering "rag joint" with a smaller outside diameter universal joint because of clearance issues with my power steering pump. The info I could find says the steering gear end is a 3/4 inch shaft with 30 splines. That's what I ordered from Speedway. Sound correct? I haven't had a chance to match it up yet...

[reaper71]

I have used the Speedway LS block hugger headers on 3 diff. builds and work great # 9300114 $200

Mark

[1stseries]

I'm so glad I found this thread and you've done such a kick ass job posting everything. I just picked up a 98 2wd s-10 for my 55'. I wanna go the route of a 350 with a 700r4. Is this a possible configuration? I'm definitely green behind the ears when it comes to this. So any constructive criticism is encouraged. Thanks again for your hard work!

[CoreyH]

I like the 4l60e transmissions, have one in my TB, but I didn't want to mess with all the wiring for that on a truck like this. Never used a 700r4 before but heard they were good transmissions for these builds with an LS motor. Running LS1 102mm intake manifold and fuel injection. I've already got a PCM and can get the TCM for it, just didn't want to mess with all the wiring. If that's the better transmission over the 700r4, then I'd rather have the 4l60e

[reaper71]

The 700R is a good trans. just be forwarned if you BEAT on one it will fail! So have it built to handle a beating if thats your plan.

The 4L60E is also a good trans just make sure you use DEXTRON 6 fluid! if you don't it will start to slip as it get's hot (do to foaming of dex 3-4) the dex 6 is a synthetic and will not foam (I found this out the hard way) That being said you can get the 4L60 (non electric version) and will be a great choice with the overdrive and the LS.

Mark...

[CoreyH]

Originally Posted by reaper71

The 700R is a good trans. just be forwarned if you BEAT on one it will fail! So have it built to handle a beating if thats your plan.

The 4L60E is also a good trans just make sure you use DEXTRON 6 fluid! if you don't it will start to slip as it get's hot (do to foaming of dex 3-4) the dex 6 is a synthetic and will not foam (I found this out the hard way) That being said you can get the 4L60 (non electric version) and will be a great choice with the overdrive and the LS.

Mark...

I don't plan on rodding it out, but if I want to get up and go I want the power to be there. Wiring don't scare me, I was just under the impression the 700 was the better choice. I can rebuild either one but since I'm going EFI, the 4l60e seems like a better choice.

[joedoh]

are you guys maybe referrring to a 4l80e when you are talking the difference between a 700r4? because in my admittedly limited understanding, the 4l60e is an electronic 700r4, the 700 has a governor and a TV cable like Hussey is saying, but the internals are interchangable with the 4l60e which has an electronically controlled shift and kickdown

a 4l80e is a very stout trans that can come behind ls/lm/lq variants and doesnt share design with the 700/4l60

[oldman3]

Got this info off of google, and I already knew part of this.

700R4 from 1982 till 1990, then 700R4 was renamed by GM in 1991 as the 4L60 (non elec) numbers and letters stood from 4 speed, L longitudinally and 60 as 6000 GVW. In 1994 the 4L60E was introduced. Depending on brand etc, these dates will very on when they were installed in vehicle. We now have 4L80E, 4L85E, and so forth. Hope this helps...Jim

[99 to Life]

keep in mind not all 4l60e will mate flawlessly to the gen3 block. Three modifications are needed if the trans didn't originate on the gen3 block. 1. Flywheel holes need elongated or get a new flywheel, 2. an adapter plate is needed since the cranks are different 3. which is least of any ones worry, one bolt hole won't be used on the trans to engine block. I'd ruffly say most trans that came from 98/99ish and older are more likely to be a gen2 trans. So just something to keep in mind if someone is searching for a 4l60e and isn't aware that not all of them are the same.

If using stock efi, I'd go with 4l60e, 65e or 80e. The 80e is a bigger and heavier trans, overkill for most mild LS stuff.

If going carb over efi on LS engine, (what I'm going through right now) it does get pricey with not only the stand alone controller, but you need a throttle position sensor which is about 130$. The TCI brand controller is nice bc it comes with a handheld cpu. Can't give much more on it as I don't have it yet.

[CoreyH]

I did a little more research on it. My motor is a 2001 and I can get an 04 4l60e so I'll go that route. EFI cable throttlebody is how I'm going to go. I can use my PCM and just have it flashed with a 2001 silverado OS and I believe it controls transmission as well. Those trucks had the 4l60e in them already so should be just fine

[skymangs]

Dear Sorry Hussey, I just assumed he would use EFI. What dummy would you use a 5.3 without going EFI? I woul them d use the 4L60E and the PCM (flashed as a stand alone PCM) to make that puppy go!
But if you do have the PCM flashed, use Brennen at lt1swap.com, he is the best in the business.

[reaper71]

His name is Brendan and he lives 10 min. from me here, and yes he does a great job on all the flashing and harness work.
I have now used 4 harnesses from him and his quality is above and beyond.

Mark...

[skymangs]

Sorry, stupid Dragon speak, I know his name is Brendan, I drove the 4 hours down there just to have him diagnose one of my projects. He is a great guy, and truly one of the best in his field.

[reaper71]

Yes he is a really good Guy and a friend of mine!
If your ever headed this way again give us (ME and Dad) a shout and stop by the shop!

Mark...

[skymangs]

Will do, always a pleasure to meet fellow enthusiasts.

[mxer666]

Skymangs,

I just completed my first AD on an s10, and your info was invaluable.
I want to thank you, like so many before me.
Now, I have a question that I am sure has been asked many times.
With my first build, I shortened an extended cab frame 4" to work.
For this now next build, I have access to an already bagged truck at a great price. But, it's a single cab shortbed.
I'm sure people have extended frames, probably at the same factory joint.
Any problems w/ that?
thx

[joedoh]

dont cut the frame at the joint, cut off the last 11" of the frame and flip it over, then cut/drill out the rivets for the front leaf hangers and move them back 8". this moves the axle back 8" and makes the wheelbase perfect. it also moves the front perch up slightly along the frame which lowers the truck about an inch for free. make sure you move the front perch 8" straight back, not 8 inches diagonally up the frame, which would be slightly less than 8" straight back. but its super easy, should only take an hour or so to do.

I learned this from 62chevy on here, he has the pictures of how to do it on his build. it works PERFECTLY, there are no downsides, I did it on my shortbed s10 chassis under my 65 swap before the back half.