Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread

[Tynee]

transformed

[hgs_notes]

Got back under the wheel well to tack the inner and outer panels back together. No major problems, but I think I'll be cutting some of the tacks to get the arch pulled in more on the front and back. I think if I leave the top of the arch where it is, I can move the other areas in a bit to get a flatter opening all around. It's hard to see in any pictures and maybe I'm focusing too much on it, but I think it'll be worth the extra effort.



With the panels welded together, it was easier to pound on it some more and try to get the high spots down some. I did more work around the tail light area also. It was pretty messed up. The damage on the side pulled on the corner, which was also smashed inward. It resulted in the edge by the tailgate getting pulled outward, the outside corner pushed in, the bottom corner of the light opening was in about 1/4". A lot of pry bar, hammer, pry bar, hammer to get it out where it's supposed to be. Started putting some filler on it too. More tomorrow and some sanding to see just where it all ended up.

[hgs_notes]

Are you guys as tired of seeing pics of a banged up bed side as I am working on it? Took a day off today and did some mud work. Slowly building layers up and have most of it roughed in. Ran out of time with sanding my last layer, but it looks like I'll be able to finish it with just a bit more filler or maybe even a glaze coat and it'll be ready for primer. I decided not to worry too much about the wheel arch and the front where it was cut because I think I'm going to try and get a set of flares for it eventually. Future plans include coil over suspension with links and larger tires (waaaaay future).

First couple layers just to see where I was at, blocked with a 12" board.



Then a skim coat over most of the damaged area, blocked out again and I have just a few little spots that need some fill. I don't think there is more than 1/8" of filler in any area. This next pic shows a magnet sticking to it in what should be the thickest layer of filler.



Still need to add some filler on the back corner, but it is very close now. I'm hoping to get it straight and in primer this weekend. Fingers crossed.

[hgs_notes]

After several attempts to fill all the lows and bang down all the highs, I finally got some high build primer over it. It's still very rough at this point, only used 100 grit so far with a 12" board, but I think it will be ok in the end. Definitely wont win any shows, good thing that isn't the plan.

The wife is really liking the copper colors, and I happened to catch a show this morning that had a 1939 ford with a 2 tone copper and silver paint job. The copper was PPG Copper Penny and she really liked that.

Anyway, pics of the progress.
Last of the regular filler work...



After a few coats of primer...
(That line in front of the marker light is not a dent or wave, just where my spray pattern ended and the light catches it)




After that hammer fest the rest should be a piece of cake.

[67chevy1series]

wow you saved that hole bedside! wish mine could be saved!

[VA72C10]

Super work! Looks really good and keeps with the low buck theme nicely. You should be proud!

Copper sounds cool!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

wow you saved that hole bedside! wish mine could be saved!

Anything can be saved, depends how much work you want to put into it.

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Super work! Looks really good and keeps with the low buck theme nicely. You should be proud!

Copper sounds cool!

Low buck, yep. I spent $24 on a gallon can of filler, used about 1/4 of it. For comparison, I used the same size can for my whole truck and had a bit left over. I like copper too, but I'm thinking it will look like a duracell ad with the black top and accents. PPG Copperhead is nice, but I also found a ford color that I like, 2009 Amber Gold metallic and the newer trucks have a golden bronze that is ok, but too brown I think.

Todays progress, took me about 15 minutes to pound out the next major dent. Not the easiest spot to work in, but you can reach it with a pry bar through the side marker hole.



Just banged away from the back side until it came out, then had to beat the side in some, which pushed in the side some. I should have braced that inside with a piece of wood or something first. Always learning something. It'll pop out ok with the stud gun and puller. You can see in the straight on pic that the gap with the tailgate is not even. It spreads as you go down, and the outside edge of the brake light opening is bowed out yet. I'll weld the crack up at the top of the opening and keep working it. But definitely an improvement. Amazing what you can do with a hammer and pry bar.

[VA72C10]

good progress and thanks for sharing the tip on the wood as a way to save someone else from doing the same thing. I've learned a ton that way in business. I have been in the cabinet industry for 16yrs+ now and I can't tell you how many mistakes I've avoided by seeing someone else make them and learning from it. Of course I've made my own mistakes too, but by learning from others mistakes I've been able to keep from most of the common mistakes that cost time and money.

[hgs_notes]

I really wasn't happy with how my dent repair was coming out. The light opening was bowed out, there was a bad indent right around the outer edge and I just couldn't get a good tool in there to work it out better. The worst of it was behind the flange that holds the light assembly, so out of desparation I just pulled the whole flange out so I could work behind it.


This allowed me to pound out the worst of the dent, get various dollies in and get it pretty flat and back to the original shape.


Then I needed to get the flange back in and straight. I could reach a bar in through the side marker hole to support and push against the area with the bow, then hammer the flange back in above and below that point. Came out pretty good, should need minimal hammer and filler work from this point. I put my bar in to show the edge is pretty straight now, and I reposted the before pics also.





So now it's time to strip the paint and get some good primer on this side. The next area of body work will be the windshield frame. I'll remove the windshield and sandblast to see how many pinholes show up and decide from there how to repair it. Next mechanical work is to fix the transfer case leaks. One of those things I should have done when it was out of the truck, oh well. Live and learn.

[Dieselwrencher]

Holly cow, great job on that RH bed side! That's awesome. mose people would have scrapped that tub due to that. Great work!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Holly cow, great job on that RH bed side! That's awesome. mose people would have scrapped that tub due to that. Great work!

Thanks, but I think most would have just replaced the bedside. The tub is nearly rust free and would have been a damn shame to scrap.

I decided to start on the transfer case repairs. It's been a while since I could be mechanical. Drained the oil without spilling a drop, got the drive shafts disconnected, removed the bolts to the adapter then the support bolts and started pulling it back with my jack under it. I had the oil drain pan over by the driver side rocker and wouldn't you know it, but it was still too close when the transfer case came off the jack.

Cripes what a mess...


Anyway, it's out and on the workbench. I've never tore into one of these before so I have a couple manuals to look over tonight. I'm just planning to inspect it for damage and replace what needs replaced, new seals and gaskets and reinstall. I think most of the problem is leakage from the tranny thru the adapter and into the transfer case, so I'll probably have to replace a seal in the tranny tail end also. Sure was nice having a hole in the floor to work thru. Think I'll have to make a better support plate for my jack when it's time to re-install.


On the very plus side though, I took my C-10 for a ride today. This is MN at the new year. Last year we had about 3 feet of snow and the highs were single digits. I never imagined being able to drive it now but I'm going to take advantage of it while I can. It put a huge grin on my face. Not that it can't be driven with snow, it's just not done because of the salt used on the roads and the icy conditions increase the risk of smashing it up.

[bollybib]

Keep bangin' away it's gettin' there.

[litew8]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I had the oil drain pan over by the driver side rocker and wouldn't you know it, but it was still too close when the transfer case came off the jack.

My luck right there
Things like that keep us humble.
I've read oven cleaner and a little scrubbing on concrete cleans oil/grease up nicely.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by bollybib

Keep bangin' away it's gettin' there.

Here's hoping to less hammering and more smoothing.

Originally Posted by litew8

My luck right there
Things like that keep us humble.
I've read oven cleaner and a little scrubbing on concrete cleans oil/grease up nicely.

My floor has a nice epoxy coating on it. Clean up is easy enough.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Anyway, it's out and on the workbench. I've never tore into one of these before so I have a couple manuals to look over tonight. I'm just planning to inspect it for damage and replace what needs replaced, new seals and gaskets and reinstall. I think most of the problem is leakage from the tranny thru the adapter and into the transfer case, so I'll probably have to replace a seal in the tranny tail end also. Sure was nice having a hole in the floor to work thru. Think I'll have to make a better support plate for my jack when it's time to re-install.


On the very plus side though, I took my C-10 for a ride today. This is MN at the new year. Last year we had about 3 feet of snow and the highs were single digits. I never imagined being able to drive it now but I'm going to take advantage of it while I can. It put a huge grin on my face. Not that it can't be driven with snow, it's just not done because of the salt used on the roads and the icy conditions increase the risk of smashing it up.

Just found your thread! I am at the same point with my 205. I am looking at using parts from quad4x4 for gaskets seal kit you may want to check them out they have proper thickness gaskets and they say that is really important. Curious to see if yo replace any bearings. Do you know if any bearings turn besides the ones in line with driveshaft in 2x4? Speaking of seals, the ones in my trans/tcase adapter were hard like plastic so you def want to replace those as they keep fluid out of the tcase like you mentioned (i know, duh).

Weather is amazing, I feel like we are going to pay for it at some point,

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I was just regretting tearing my 40 apart today. It would have been nice to be cruising it right now in this great weather we're having!

We had 53 (record) on monday. I was working on the jimmy with the garage door open in a long sleeve shirt.

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Just found your thread! I am at the same point with my 205. I am looking at using parts from quad4x4 for gaskets seal kit you may want to check them out they have proper thickness gaskets and they say that is really important. Curious to see if yo replace any bearings. Do you know if any bearings turn besides the ones in line with driveshaft in 2x4? Speaking of seals, the ones in my trans/tcase adapter were hard like plastic so you def want to replace those as they keep fluid out of the tcase like you mentioned (i know, duh).

Weather is amazing, I feel like we are going to pay for it at some point,

I knew there was a problem with the rear tranny seal when I had to add fluid to the tranny to get it to move and it keeps leaking out of the transfer case shift lever holes which are up high. I'll try to put as much info in the thread as I can for the t-case work.

As for the weather, every day that goes by like this just makes it that much easier to get through the coming winter chill. I'll take a shorter winter anytime. My wife said it was because I bought a new snowblower this fall. I told her I'll buy a new one every year if it will give us a winter like this.

[Dieselwrencher]

I was just regretting tearing my 40 apart today. It would have been nice to be cruising it right now in this great weather we're having!

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm not going to argue with the weather either! I've been opening up my shop every morning letting the out side heat it for a change in the winter.

[VA72C10]

We'll pay for this weather at some point....it always comes in cycles. We're due for some tough winters down the road in my area...although in Tidewater, VA, they've had near or record snowfall the two previous years...

[litew8]

Yeah, careful what you wish for. Could be a prolonged winter - thereby making for a short summer.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by litew8

Yeah, careful what you wish for. Could be a prolonged winter - thereby making for a short summer.

2 years ago we got hammered with snow, and last year we got our fair share of cold, so we have paid some dues!

[litew8]

Living in Iowa, I don't think our "dues" are ever paid off.

[id_unavailable]

Dude you have some skills. I am inspired when I see others do so much with so little to work with (taking a fender that most would scrap and beating it back to shape). The body work that you have done is very impressive.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by id_unavailable

Dude you have some skills. I am inspired when I see others do so much with so little to work with (taking a fender that most would scrap and beating it back to shape). The body work that you have done is very impressive.

Thanks, I appreciate that. Just so everyone knows, the wheel arch is not quite right but it's hard to tell in the pics. If I needed it to look better it would probably have to be replaced with straight sheetmetal. I took it as far as my skills would go and for this project it is good enough.

On to the transfer case. I pulled off the bearing retainers and covers. Made the mistake of pulling the rear output shaft completely out. There are needle bearings inside it that fall out, kind of a pain to get those back in. All the gears and bearings look pretty good and roll smoothly. The bottom of the case was clean, no sludge or particles of any kind.

The local parts stores do not carry the seals and gaskets as a set or even listed as available. They just have a complete rebuild kit. I could go in with the seal part numbers, etc, but found a couple sources online that have kits that do not include the bearings. I'll post what I get when I order it.

I bet the previous owner of this truck originally parked it because he couldn't keep tranny fluid in it and it had a huge puddle under the transfer case. After sitting for too long the engine seized from water leaks on the head gaskets and so it was sent to the junkyard for me to find. I ended up with a project because of a $10 seal. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.

Pics are in the camera, camera in the garage, I'll get 'em up later.

[Lifetime Project 72]

I have to say this is one a view builds on this site that I look forward to.Your descriptions of what you are doing,plus all the pics are really inspirational.
To build a running truck on less than 4 grand is amazing!! I feel like going and getting a stud gun and slide hammer to pull the dents on my box sides,because of your excellent work!
And the fact its a GMC makes it so much better!
Looking forward to more great pics!

Chris