My 78 K15 High Sierra build - Fish Tremble

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Thanks, I'm going to have to look at those vanes again. I didn't notice that they even have a rounded edge. Mine look like little rectangles with what I assume are flat edges but maybe didn't look hard enough.

It is subtle. Here is a pic of mine during disassembly. Note the rounded edges facing into the rotor. Also the documentation from my rebuild kit, Step 4.

[swamp rat]

I have the same problem with bouncing around in the lane but not as bad as before the new lift kit, nice to know the shims made a difference, I'll have to get my toe and caster checked here eventually.

Yea them gas charged shocks are a royal pita to get compressed and installed, I'm still not sure if it was worth the added cost VS a good set of hydraulic shocks as it's a stiff ride, my stabilizer is still hydraulic.

[rgunlock]

Saturday I took the truck out on a road where I was able to get it up to around 65MPH for about a 30+ mile round trip. It handled pretty well, but I've decided to try removing the passenger side stabilizer - haven't driven again to test that yet.

Main problem this trip was wind noise coming past my new door weatherstripping and/or the new window rubber. Couldn't tell whether or not I was getting any other undesired noises. I'll have to do the trick where I tape it all up and start removing pieces until the noise returns. Also, at the halfway point I pulled into a station and cut the engine for a few minutes. It didn't want to start - very sluggish turning over. Then the same when I got it back home. Think I'm going to put in a new battery for starters. I'm using an optima I got 6+ years ago. It sat on a shelf for 3-4 years (after I decided to tear the truck all the way down), then was used in the wife's Tahoe for a couple more. I "think" I swapped it out of her truck because it was getting weak. Smells like the truck is running a little rich still, and a guestimate of my mileage on the 30 mile trip is in the neighborhood of 7 MPG - the guage is down a quarter tank and the tank is 16 gallons.

I expected that there would be bugs to work out when I got this project done, but I'll guarantee that in the years I did software development I never had this many bugs to deal with when the code development was done

[7dee2]

Your a brave man I haven't looked at mpg yet? Been messing with the auto choke settings on El Rae and it was still running a little rich according to the miss's when she followed us last. How many miles total on that new motor?

[rgunlock]

Well, since I still haven't got my speedometer/odometer calibrated, I'm not sure on the number of miles. I'd guess I'm right about at 100 miles now.

I did decide to break down and get a new Quadrajet built specifically to the specs on my crate motor and cam. Should show up just after the new year. Keeping my fingers crossed that it does the trick and I can get the engine running smoothly. I feel like I've gone over everything multiple times although I still haven't installed the helper fuel pump, and the engine still surges pretty badly at idle.

[DWilbur]

if your running mechanical speedO. Advanced Adapters has web page to figure out what you need based on gearing and tire size.

[7dee2]

Hope the new carb does the trick!

[rgunlock]

Got a few things knocked off the list while waiting on the new carburetor.
- Installed relays into the headlight circuits. Not sure I can tell any difference, but I guess I'm ready for bulb upgrades if I choose to.
- Figured out why my washer pump wasn't working. After 1 new one that came on everytime the wipers ran and just kept squirting -even with no electrical connection to the pump! Then another new one that did what the original did, wipers fine but no squirt. Found that the terminal on the pump ground wire was slipped back in the connector where it plugs into the switch - no bueno!
- Got the clock working while I had the dash back apart. Had the wires reversed in the connector
- Glued the rear-view mirror to the windshield for the 3rd time. Its already off again Permatex just ain't getting the job done!
- Used a chunk of 2x4 and some good shoves to persuade my driver side door window frame into better alignment with the A-pillar. That did get rid of most of my wind noise in the cab. Now I can hear my speedo cable chattering away in the dash - needle bounces around too, so something wrong there.
- Discovered that I could use 18" wiper blades - don't have to live with the 15.5" that the parts store gave me for a 78 GMC.

My new carburetor came in. It was built by quadrajetpower.com somewhere near San Antonio. I will say that the truck started up and ran without my having to make any adjustments. I don't notice the surge in rpm anymore in idle. I'm still doing tweaking, but I think I am getting closer

[7dee2]

Yes, a good carb makes all the difference. Gave up gluing on our rearview mirrors years ago for the same reason. Paid some labor and supplied the windshield (way better deal and same glass) for Blue last summer. Glass shop was nice enough to install our mirror a month or two later for free since they had installed the glass. Thinking they get a better, stronger glue or something?

[swamp rat]

Per the speedo cable all mine needed was some oil , just unhooked the ends and wrapped some tape and fool around the top to make a real small funnel then added a bit and let it draw down over night.

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Yes, a good carb makes all the difference. Gave up gluing on our rearview mirrors years ago for the same reason. Paid some labor and supplied the windshield (way better deal and same glass) for Blue last summer. Glass shop was nice enough to install our mirror a month or two later for free since they had installed the glass. Thinking they get a better, stronger glue or something?

I've been driving the truck all week, about 34 miles +/- per day and so far the new carb is doing pretty well. Truck feels a little rough while idling at a light but hasn't died at all once warmed up. I think I do still need to do some more tweaking to the choke since it isn't going automatically into fast idle on 40 degree mornings.

I bought a different product called VersaChem online for the rearview. Seems to be holding better than the Permatex but I have to admit I did all the adjusting with the mirror in my hand (off the metal nub) before tightening up the set screw.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Per the speedo cable all mine needed was some oil , just unhooked the ends and wrapped some tape and fool around the top to make a real small funnel then added a bit and let it draw down over night.

Gave your suggestion a try Mike. Still no bueno. I have also re-routed the speedo cable to what I think is more likely factory routing than what I originally did. The needle now holds fairly steady once I get up some speed, but is pretty jittery at low speed and I'm still hearing a lot of chatter in the dash. I'm wondering if the problem is my new aftermarket speedometer guage. I have read though that you are supposed to remove the metal line from the cable to lube and that there is a special type of lube - I haven't tried this yet.

[rgunlock]

After driving the truck for a few days, I'm starting to get more confident that it isn't going to let me down. I think I'm down to 3 main areas that I'd like to improve on.

I'd added shims to the front axle to give me more caster, and installed dual steering stabilizers. I didn't like having to steer back straight after making a turn so I removed one of the stabilizer shocks. It is "pretty" good now, but I'm wondering if 1 or 2 more degrees of caster wouldn't be better.

Truck still bounces me around like crazy on rough pavement. Most of my daily commute is rough pavement. I've called the manufacture of my lift springs and they confirmed I got the correct springs and shocks for my application and I've already double-checked that I didn't over-torque installing them. Open to suggestions on this one.

My SM465, 3:07 gearing, and 33" tires aren't quite working out. Just can't find the right gear in common situations like a right turn without a stop. Can't get down into second without slowing much more than necessary for the turn and making the turn in 3rd is lugging down pretty bad. I don't have a tach, but it doesn't seem that the truck wants to do over about 65MPH without feeling like its running too high RPMs.

I've got a pair of axles from a '76 Blazer with brand new 4:10 gears and limited slip diffs. I've got a 1992 NV4500 that's already been "gone through". I've also got the Advanced Adapters NP205 adapter and bell housing. I've been saving them for my '59 Apache ...BUT... my wife has decided that I'll be building that truck for her... SO looking at a change of direction on that project and I'd rather use the parts than sell them. I think I'm about 99% decided that Hazel will get more shop time before I commit to her being my daily driver.

[DWilbur]

3.73 gears would be better with 33" tires. I ended up getting Bilstien shocks as the shocks that came with my 6"super lift kit were good for paper weights. I installed NV4500 in my truck with 4.10 gears but have not finished my build to drive it still in paint. I will be running 36" tires still unsure about the over drive with 4.10's and 36's.

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

3.73 gears would be better with 33" tires. I ended up getting Bilstien shocks as the shocks that came with my 6"super lift kit were good for paper weights. I installed NV4500 in my truck with 4.10 gears but have not finished my build to drive it still in paint. I will be running 36" tires still unsure about the over drive with 4.10's and 36's.

When I got the axles done, I hadn't decided between 33" and 35" tires. The guy at the drivetrain shop recommended the 4.10's and I assumed they should work pretty well with either size. I'll do a little more homework before swapping them in.

The suspension issue I feel from in the cab is more of a "bang bang" rather than "boing boing" if that makes sense. Like the springs aren't compressing or the shocks aren't letting them, rather than being too springy. Is that the issue you had, and are you now happy with your ride with the Bilstien's?

[DWilbur]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

When I got the axles done, I hadn't decided between 33" and 35" tires. The guy at the drivetrain shop recommended the 4.10's and I assumed they should work pretty well with either size. I'll do a little more homework before swapping them in.

When I had my 84 Chevy I use to run 35" and 38" tires with 4.10 tranny was SM465 and 205 T- case. the 38's was like driving in over drive and the 35's was better matched with the 4.10's. I ran set of 33" one day and I sucked up a tank of fuel driving to work and back one day so I went back to the 35's for daily driving and the 38,s for wheeling.

The suspension issue I feel from in the cab is more of a "bang bang" rather than "boing boing" if that makes sense. Like the springs aren't compressing or the shocks aren't letting them, rather than being too springy. Is that the issue you had, and are you now happy with your ride with the Bilstien's?

My 98 Dodge with 6" lift drove like it had no springs very stiff harsh ride. I switch the shocks to the bilstien's and made it way better like night and day.

[7dee2]

Excellent news on the confidence factor! My last alignment guy said 9 degrees caster is a majac number.

Thinking you do need a tach so the ear doesn’t play tricks, Blue has a noisy direct style fan that makes you feel like it’s twisting to the moon but in reality, it’s just a noisy direct fan. Big changes, you’d think with 3.07’s it’d be a freeway flyer but 4.10’s and OD would be a really sweet combo best of both worlds.

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

My 98 Dodge with 6" lift drove like it had no springs very stiff harsh ride. I switch the shocks to the bilstien's and made it way better like night and day.

Thanks DWilber. I will likely give these a try. Do you recall whether you used 5100's or 5125's or something else? Seems like most of what I read regarding to switching to Bilstiens are folks that are looking for a firmer ride, less body roll, etc. My ride is plenty firm and its good to hear that these helped you out with a problem similar to mine.

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Excellent news on the confidence factor! My last alignment guy said 9 degrees caster is a majac number.

Thinking you do need a tach so the ear doesn’t play tricks, Blue has a noisy direct style fan that makes you feel like it’s twisting to the moon but in reality, it’s just a noisy direct fan. Big changes, you’d think with 3.07’s it’d be a freeway flyer but 4.10’s and OD would be a really sweet combo best of both worlds.

I added 2 degree shims with starting caster of 6.7 and 6.9 so I guess I'm already at the magic number. I agree that I need to get a tach. Gear ratio calculators say that I'm out of my mind thinking the truck is straining to do highway speed. It may just be that my 4-speed is a little noisy and I'm getting a lot of noise from the speedo at speed.

[MTCK]

Good looking tach. Looks like it could have come that way. Glad you're on the road.

[swamp rat]

Yea i'd take the tach too..

[Matt Man]

Love the truck, just read through the whole build the paint looks great!

I can offer some advice for the rough ride. On my 81, I had the 4" rancho springs with dual rancho 5000 shocks. I took the dual shock setup off and installed a set of procomp mx6 adjustable shocks. This made a huge difference in the ride. Also, I ordered off road designs swaybar disconnect/correction kit. I will admit the shocks are expensive, but very well worth it if you drive the truck a lot. But overall, it rides awesome for what it is. But it is still a leaf sprung truck.

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by MTCK

Good looking tach. Looks like it could have come that way. Glad you're on the road.

Thanks Marcus. On the road on and off at least. At the moment its back in the shop until I figure out the choke and fast idle. Doesn't seem to behave the same two mornings in a row. This morning it started off racing at over 1500rpm (ask me how I know ) and wouldn't come off it. Vapor cloud from cold covered the truck and smelled of a lot of unburnt fuel.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Yea i'd take the tach too..

Not sure how it would look in your '72 Mike!

Originally Posted by Matt Man

Love the truck, just read through the whole build the paint looks great!

I can offer some advice for the rough ride. On my 81, I had the 4" rancho springs with dual rancho 5000 shocks. I took the dual shock setup off and installed a set of procomp mx6 adjustable shocks. This made a huge difference in the ride. Also, I ordered off road designs swaybar disconnect/correction kit. I will admit the shocks are expensive, but very well worth it if you drive the truck a lot. But overall, it rides awesome for what it is. But it is still a leaf sprung truck.

Thanks for looking over my build Matt Man. I haven't pulled the trigger on different shocks yet. So far, I'd been advised to go with Bilstiens but I'll take a look at the procomp as well. Did the swaybar disconnect/correction kit actually help your on-road handling? Not sure how that works - what's the "correction" part of it do?

[rgunlock]

Never mind on the question MattMan. I reread your post and noticed you'd mentioned the brand. They actually explain on the website.

"The swaybar correction/disconnect kit corrects by raising the back of the swaybar two inches to help compensate for a lift and also by adding a pivot point to keep your swaybar from binding up the front suspension."

"Many aftermarket leaf springs are built with the dimensions a little different from factory for various reasons. This is usually not a problem until you try to use factory parts like the swaybar that require the exact factory geometry to function properly. Most lift springs in the four inch and up range are a little longer that stock which causes the swaybar to try (it’s a solid bar) to stretch and compress. This translates into extra wear on the bushings, loosening of the U-bolts, and in extreme cases, the metal swaybar bushing brackets can be bent. Our kit’s swinging link design takes all the bind out of the system giving you a softer ride and eliminates bushing damage."

This makes sense, and isn't that bad an investment to give it a shot. Thanks!

[rgunlock]

Gotta say thanks one more time to Matt Man. Just finished installing the Offroad Designs swaybar correction/disconnect system. Took my wife for a test drive over some of the roughest roads we have around here. I quote her "I'd go on a road trip in this". I think this may be the best $110.00 I've spent on this truck!

You still feel every bump, but I'm no longer clenching both my gut and my teeth to keep from chipping them. I'm even still using the same shocks. I think that I am finally over the hump going from "I'm satisfied to be finally at least driving this" to "this is actually getting fun to drive". Still think I need to get the 5-speed in though

Did some more carb tuning also over the last couple weekends, and it seems to be pretty good now. Of course its 76* here today so not a big challenge as far as getting it warmed up.

[boynton]

I’m glad you are figuring it out! I’m going to be starting on a 72 k5 and will be stealing all of your good ideas!

[MTCK]

That’s awesome! I never did a stand alone Pepsi challenge with the disconnects, but they were part of the setup on my K10 along with the ez ride springs and 5100 bilstiens. Overdrive is nice. My truck was a different animal with 4.10 gears (originally 3.08) in a good way.