My long term 57 project

[ChuckDriver]

I picked it up at the show for $150.00.

[ChuckDriver]

Here's a couple of shots of the frame I picked up this summer.

Check out the unique way to remove the cab!!

[ratty 46]

That's one way ... probably not the one I would have used though ...

[RockinKees]

Haha, Apache Convertable

[Kim57]

That's wild.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

Haha, Apache Convertable

Good one!

Just to be clear this was NOT done by me!!

[oldman3]

As the old saying goes "Were there's a will, there's a way" just NOT our way...Jim

[99 to Life]

sad thing is, it prolly took longer to do it this way

[OrrieG]

Hopefully the upper half was used to fix one in even worse condition....

[ChuckDriver]

I believe the cab was rebuilt, sure it was a lot of work!

Check out these motor mounts, yikes! But someone did do a nice 5 lug conversion.

[ratty 46]

Looks like someone attended the Stevie Wonder welding school ... OUCH.

I still don't understand why people just don't ask someone for a little help. Being a retired GE welder even I ask for info/assistance once in a while. I've never stopped learning ... Life is like a ladder ...

[Kim57]

Those are some nasty looking welds.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Got it up on saw horses to make it easier to remove all of the stock suspension.

[oldman3]

JJ, I think I would keep the motor mounts, so you could show what NOT to make...Jim

[Advanced Design]

This is going to be so cool! Tagging along for more updates.

[Mattyparty]

Oh snap. Didn't know you got bit by the porterbuilt bug too, let me know if you have any questions.

[ChuckDriver]

Yep I sure did, thanks!

[ChuckDriver]

Spent a few hours removing the suspension brackets and cab mounts.

Started by grinding the frame rivets flat with a grinder, center punched them and drilled the centers. Followed by a cut off wheel, then used a air chisel to remove the heads. Then I had to drill down into what was left to relieve some of the tension before using the air punch to drive them out.

[Dan in Pasadena]

JJ,

I have what is probably a dumb question:

I've read all sorts of strategies for removing factory frame rivets and apparently it's not easy. Having never done it I'm sure I must be over simplifying it, but why can't you just grind the head flush with the frame flange, then either use a punch or air hammer to drive them out? Ok, I see why drilling the center gives you a place to hold the punch but why all the other steps?

[FarmerSid]

That's what I do Dan. Once flush, a BFH and a punch just under the size of the rivet. The outline of the rivet can be seen after grinding flush to the frame.

[FarmerSid]

sometimes a 1/4" or smaller hole the thickness of the frame deep relieves the stress and makes them pop out easier.

[ChuckDriver]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

sometimes a 1/4" or smaller hole the thickness of the frame deep relieves the stress and makes them pop out easier.

Bingo!

I have gotten the heads to "pop off" just by drilling them. I start with a small drill and step up a couple of times, and if you hit it in the center to head will come right off. I still find it easier to then drill down through it a little to get it the rest of the way out.

Dan, I couldn't grind the head completely off without scaring the frame. These ideas worked for me, but I'm sure there are better ones out there!!

[Rude Dude]

Chuck are you going to swap frames or build another one, hopefully build another one!

[Rude Dude]

Sorry Chuck I didn't read earlier post!

[ChuckDriver]

Before cutting the front cross member out, I made a fixture that bolts into the holes for the forward cab mounts, this should keep the rails from spreading or twisting after the cut.

I don't think I can strip it down any further than this!

The front frame horns were bent and twisted, so I picked up a pair from DVAP on a recent trip to AZ.

And here it is laid out in my small 2 car garage waiting for the PorterBuilt parts to be installed!