My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[butternut1972]

Everything is really looking good, what your doing now will pay off at the end. It seemed like it took forever when I was at this point. Keep up the great work.

[gdavis]

They sell a hand heald sand blaster around 20.00. To do some touch sand blasting. Harbor frieght or Tractor supply.

[Bomp]

Looking great man.
Make sure the sand blaster guy doesn't warp the sheet metal.
Don't worry about making a vid so much. The truck is more important.
You can vid big'ol burn outs later!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Thanks dudes! I'm taking the fenders to be blasted just so they can get rid of all the yuk that I can't get at. Those need just a little bodywork yet.

I have blasted a ton of parts over the years. Sand just seems to get stuck everywhere and never completely comes out of the nooks & crannies no matter what you do to get the part clean until you go to shoot some primer on the part.

There are a couple soda blasters in town that do great work at decent prices. Much better for sheet metal than sand blasting. The best thing is that the residue just washes off and is water soluble. It won't hurt glass or chrome either so you can have them clean up painted over emblems and vent window assemblies.

[jlsanborn]

Thanks for checking in guys! I've been quiet the last few days but am itchin to get back on it soon.

I'm still on the fence regarding the fenders. It'd sure be nicer if they were blasted clean but I just don't know if it's worth the cost and or risk at this point. They're really not all that bad it's just the hard to reach spots that I would really like to have rust free and real clean before I seal them up.

I might look at that "baby blaster" at HF. I could build a box kind of like Bomp did which would be really cool! I'm afraid I'd roach my tandem compressors with anything half sized tho.....

[Low Elco]

I had mine done, didn't seem to bother them. Make sure you check the overlapping seam in the inner of the bottom pocket. Mine was rotten, but the rest of the fender was great. In the end it was worth it to get stuff blasted.
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[jlsanborn]

Pretty slow lately as it's been freaking COLD. Not stupid cold like some folks have to deal with but single digits anyways. Had to do a little up-keep on the Crummy. I haven't had running window juice in years which SUCKS this time of year so I got that all sorted out. I've also been bumping the q-jet calibration up and am alomost back to the stupid mileage I was getting outta the AFB . Even though that little manual choke linkage I built worked slick, I HATE manual choke. I was thinking I'd invent my own divorced electric and went to the bone-yard for parts. What did I find? That exact same setup (labeled Echlin/NAPA) on a '70 C20. I'm going to finish that up today and I'll post a pic.

I did drop off them fenders at the blaster! I asked him to just do the insides and should have those back next week.

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Pretty slow lately as it's been freaking COLD. Not stupid cold like some folks have to deal with but single digits anyways. Had to do a little up-keep on the Crummy. I haven't had running window juice in years which SUCKS this time of year so I got that all sorted out. I've also been bumping the q-jet calibration up and am alomost back to the stupid mileage I was getting outta the AFB . Even though that little manual choke linkage I built worked slick, I HATE manual choke. I was thinking I'd invent my own divorced electric and went to the bone-yard for parts. What did I find? That exact same setup (labeled Echlin/NAPA) on a '70 C20. I'm going to finish that up today and I'll post a pic.

I did drop off them fenders at the blaster! I asked him to just do the insides and should have those back next week.

When you get the auto choke installed I would love to see it. I to hate the manual choke. Gdavis from Florida

[jlsanborn]

Here ya go! Even managed to get a video uploaded too . In the video it didn't really set to full-choke, then it came off WAY too fast. I wound the spring up a bit more and will let you know how it goes in the morning.

Redneck electric choke - YouTube

[Bomp]

Cool vid man.
Wish I could figure stuff out like that.
Great sounding tone in the exhaust too.
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[Low Elco]

Great job! They are a mystery to me as well. I slipped with a screwdriver and zapped the choke in Yeller, still haven't fixed it, don't know how! Good vid!
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Bomp

Cool vid man.
Wish I could figure stuff out like that.
Great sounding tone in the exhaust too.
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I'd say when it comes to carby's I know about enough to be dangerous! Seems I'm never satisfied and am constantly effin with it. If I wasn't trying to squirrel moolah for the actual BUILD I'd go to FI in a heartbeat (and probably be constantly fiddling with that too!). The phone audio dosen't do my obnoxious exhaust any justice! It's long tube headers with 3" pipe over the x-member and 3" cherry bombs. Still want to do tail pipes past the rear end but WRONG TRUCK.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Great job! They are a mystery to me as well. I slipped with a screwdriver and zapped the choke in Yeller, still haven't fixed it, don't know how! Good vid!
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I've got some schematics at the house but I'm pretty sure yours would be tapped off the heater blower circuit. I'm not sure if they used a fusible link or not. I think earlier ones used a contact on the oil pressure switch. The style that uses "keyed" source can fool the choke. In other words, just having the key on will start that choke pull-off. The pressure switch type won't start pulling the choke off unless the engine is actually running (oil pressure).


Looks like I got this video thing worked out and plan on doing more. Sure wish I could have got the big tree / rearend episode on the tube!

So it seems to me that this aftermarket coil I've got just heats up too fast. I tightened it up a bit yesterday after the video but it still comes off way too soon. This fella is cold blooded and still needs a little choke to get me past the stop sign. I may try a dropping resistor in there to slow it up. The coil is about 24 ohms, so 500mA and around 6 watts. A 10 ohm in there should cut the power down by about half....

[gdavis]

That sounds like you have it all figured out there my friend. I like the choke and what year and make did you get it off.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by gdavis

That sounds like you have it all figured out there my friend. I like the choke and what year and make did you get it off.

Well ya see I've got an early q-jet with the divorced choke. That style choke was pure mechanical, although "automatic". It used a bi-metal coil spring contained in a little "stove" that mounted to intake manifold above the exhaust cross-over or pre-heat passage. I'd be just fine with that except I have that exhaust passage blocked off (the little tin pieces that come in the intake gasket kit) and it takes about 30 minutes to get hot enough! Later q-jets had the choke "integral" and that's the housing with the black plastic cover you see on the side. Some of those worked exactly the same way except they ran a tube from that exhaust port up to the bi-metal spring while others got the electric heating element.

To your question....
There ain't an OE electric choke for my setup. I thought I would go find any bi-metal spring with the electric heating element and build my own divorced choke similar to that bell-crank thing I built for the manual choke. I got lottery lucky and found an aftermarket setup that someone (it's branded Echlin/NAPA) had already invented! I'll look closer for a part number on it.

What carb are you using? If it was an OE manual choke it's pretty unlikely that you'll be able to convert it to automatic very easily. The automatics use counterweights and tricky little linkages so that the minimal force produced by that spring can actually move parts around. A pure manual probably takes a bit of "oomph" to open and close it.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Great job! They are a mystery to me as well. I slipped with a screwdriver and zapped the choke in Yeller, still haven't fixed it, don't know how! Good vid!
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Did a little diggin and if Yeller was originally V8 then I don't think it had electric choke???? Looks like the sixes (or at least some of them) did and they came off the oil pressure switch (cool and how I will do it on the C10). I can't remember where I found it but for some reason I decied to tap off the heater blower wire (keyed hot). See where yours is sourced and poke around with a meter to see if you can find a bad joint or something peculiar. I doubt you smoked the actual heating element/coil spring. What carby?

[Low Elco]

You should know by now, NOTHING is as it was on this truck! I have it run to key on hot, it's an Edelbrock 1406. It did great when I put on and the wire is live, just choke dead now. IDK, least of my worries. Glad yours works!

[jlsanborn]

I hear ya on Yeller! Just read your last post over there and will chime in. Unplug the hot wire from the carby and measure resistance from that terminal on the carb to negative battery terminal. You should read continuity between like 5-50 ohms. I'd say closer to the middle of that. I think you have to install your own ground wire on that Edelbrock dude? Check that connection. I found a part number (GM #25036378) for the oil pressure switch with an extra terminal for the choke. Ima check that out and will let you know.

[Low Elco]

Cool, thanks! I literally had no idea what to do, I'll have to give it a shot!

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Well ya see I've got an early q-jet with the divorced choke. That style choke was pure mechanical, although "automatic". It used a bi-metal coil spring contained in a little "stove" that mounted to intake manifold above the exhaust cross-over or pre-heat passage. I'd be just fine with that except I have that exhaust passage blocked off (the little tin pieces that come in the intake gasket kit) and it takes about 30 minutes to get hot enough! Later q-jets had the choke "integral" and that's the housing with the black plastic cover you see on the side. Some of those worked exactly the same way except they ran a tube from that exhaust port up to the bi-metal spring while others got the electric heating element.

To your question....
There ain't an OE electric choke for my setup. I thought I would go find any bi-metal spring with the electric heating element and build my own divorced choke similar to that bell-crank thing I built for the manual choke. I got lottery lucky and found an aftermarket setup that someone (it's branded Echlin/NAPA) had already invented! I'll look closer for a part number on it.

What carb are you using? If it was an OE manual choke it's pretty unlikely that you'll be able to convert it to automatic very easily. The automatics use counterweights and tricky little linkages so that the minimal force produced by that spring can actually move parts around. A pure manual probably takes a bit of "oomph" to open and close it.

I was lost when you said you took divorce choke. and a stove. too much for me I need one that i can take off and put on. But good luck my friend.

[jlsanborn]

I think I should rename this thread "Johnny's adventures with the crusty old Chevy's" Yup, working on the WRONG TRUCKS again today. First, I learned that them auto locking diffs don't really like stand-still third gear dumps on the ice doin dougnuts. WHACK! busted another one The Boy got kissed in the a$$ by some school girl (that's for you Elco) and tweaked his bumper. Went to the bone yard again (we got a gold mine up here man!) and scored another locker and a Blazer bumper for the S10. I did pick up them fenders today though and they look sweet! $50 for them to just do the insides broke my heart but they're done. Boy scored some work today from a dude that works with Wifey. He builds rods and race cars and needs a hand yappin a rear end and doin some sanding. Hope that works out for him and he learns a thing or two! Swear I'm going to get back on the C10 here soon.

P.S.
Spotted some SWEET chrome vent windows that I'm going back for tomorrow. We were rolling in the slush in the pi$$in rain and it was getting dark so I couldn't get them today.

[Bomp]

[jlsanborn]

Yup, BROKEN. Nothing like the last one but still wasted. Slapped the new unit in and took it out mobbin on some wicked nasty ice roads. It locks, that's for sure I only wish I could take one apart that was intact so I could figure out how these gov-locks work!? From what I've read, you gotta have a 100-200 rpm differential before it'll lock but it'll only lock under a certain axle speed??? I guess the crappy part is when you got one spooled up and it tries to lock. Kinda like jamming a stick in the spokes!

Made it back to the bone yard and snagged them chrome vent windows as well as the chrome pieces that hold the top of the door panels. $20 for the lot ain't bad!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Bomp

How the heck did you do that!?

[Bomp]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

How the heck did you do that!?

Wha ha ha ha


Now you got THAT fixed get back to paintin'

[gdavis]

That was a good fine 20.00 for both vent windows. I paid 50.00 each. Gdavis from Florida