The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build

[Tx Firefighter]

Parts ordered to revamp the fuel filler.

[Stoney]

Good write up on those parts.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-r...ller-neck.html

[77ChevySharkBite]

I haven't read through everything fully yet but I love the knowledge you have and share and take the time to explain the steps you take it's great.

Very encouraging I like how you are going after everything USA and if not you try to refurbish it yourself it's great, I'm staying turned no doubt.

[83GMCK2500]

Fantastic. With your attention to detail and your abilities I have no doubt that you will be able to pull up to a high speed pump now.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Fantastic. With your attention to detail and your abilities I have no doubt that you will be able to pull up to a high speed pump now.

At the rate I'm going, its gonna be awhile till I find out. You fellas can't ever say I'm not a patient guy. Identify a problem, order parts, wait a week for delivery, solve problem. Repeat over and over again until I (hopefully) run out of problems.

[notsolo]

Kevin Always Working on making it better. Thanks for sharing. ...I cannot tell you how many times I have looked on this site for solutions to the problem of the day ( for me it's always something when working on an old truck)..I have found Tx Firefighter's name pop's up with a here is what I did. Recently looking for what other guys have done with engine oil priming before 1st start up...your suggestion use the dist. base not just a screw driver.. oil travels up to the upper engine journal's around dist base..Never knew....Thanks again...Back to the your project. Do you have a filler neck to go with that new hose...I have a 2" filler neck from a 90 S 10 you can have if you need one.....Edward

[Tx Firefighter]

Edward,

The factory hose into my tank is a GM hose with 1 3/4 inked onto it. So I ordered 1.75 rubber filler hose and 90 degree elbow. I either need to find a 1 3/4 inch filler neck or I'll modify my current one by cutting and welding a piece of proper size tube onto it. I'd much prefer to find a proper 1 3/4 filler neck though so it will have a vent tube bib on the side all ready to just bolt on and connect the dots.

[Tx Firefighter]

Slow progress on the truck today.

Got a bad weather spell about to set in so I spent most of my time getting the animal troughs, water well, and barn ready for it.



My taillights are lost in the Postal system somewhere within 30 miles of my house. Maybe I'll get them tomorrow.

I did remove the fuel filler and do some work on it.



I wanted to remove any unnecessary kinks in the system to hopefully have it take gas better than it does now. To review, I am doing the entire system in 1 3/4 inch tubing and hose. My Summit order with all of the goodies shows delivery tomorrow.

So, I cut and welded and modified to end up with a straight 1 3/4 inch filler neck. My gas bottle on my 110 mig with the .023 wire was empty so I wound up using about my worst welder for this job, my Millermatic 250 with .035 wire. I consider myself a capable welder, but working with this thin tubing and the big wire and large MIG gun was a challenge. I'd have had to drive about 60 miles round trip to fill the bottle on my little welder otherwise.



Now, a question for the readers.....

When I install this filler neck, what orientation should the vent tube be at ? Top or to the side ? I should be able to clock it whatever way I want since its a straight unit so that's not an issue. I want factory like flow rate when I go to fuel up at the gas pump.

[68Timber]

I would want it somewhere in the top third orientation, that should maximize efficiency with the nozzle of the gas pump. I was listening to the car guys on NPR fifteen or twenty years ago and they had a trivia question about how the nozzle knows to stop pumping fuel when your tank is near full. Although the fuel appears to be delivered in an even flow it is actually coming in pulses. Supposedly it can read the pulses of air coming back from the tank and "know" at value X the tank is pretty much full and the nozzle cuts off. Kind of interesting stuff.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

I would want it somewhere in the top third orientation, that should maximize efficiency with the nozzle of the gas pump. I was listening to the car guys on NPR fifteen or twenty years ago and they had a trivia question about how the nozzle knows to stop pumping fuel when your tank is near full. Although the fuel appears to be delivered in an even flow it is actually coming in pulses. Supposedly it can read the pulses of air coming back from the tank and "know" at value X the tank is pretty much full and the nozzle cuts off. Kind of interesting stuff.

That certainly makes logical sense. My filler setup was very rigged by some past owner and had the vent located at straight up 12 o'clock. But, there's also multiple screw holes in the filler neck flange where it has been rotated at least once in its life. I'm going to try and get a peek underneath some stock trucks (non flat beds even) to see where Uncle General Motors located them from the factory. Its one of those things I've seen thousands of times but never slowed down long enough to really take notice when I was working on vehicles.

[joe231]

Kevin,

I believe most of this era of trucks, the breather tub was located at either 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock. That's what I have seen anyway....

[Tx Firefighter]

Thanks Joe. That's simple enough. Saved me from grubbing around underneath some stranger's truck in a parking lot somewhere.

Horizontal it is.

[Greenlee]

If you can find the filler neck from a stepside with fuel doors it is pretty straight like what you just built. Good luck finding one though. It seems none of the parts suppliers sell fuel filler parts for the stepsides. I need another one for the passenger side to run dual tanks.

I had hell with the filler hose. The inlet for the tank and filler neck are different diameters, so it's difficult to just go out and buy a hose and make it work. I pieced to together a couple of stock hoses and a new hose.

Here is a picture of mine. Looks like the vent is at about 12:00 o'clock. I believe that is factory because the screws only lined up in one position. However, the hose itself is not factory. I wasn't too sure about my "engineering" with the hoses, but if fills up just fine even with the new vapor recovery pumps. I had a 76' Silverado that you couldn't put gas in with the new pumps without turning the nozzle upside down and standing on your head!

[Tx Firefighter]

I wish i had the resources, I'd go into a small time business making stepside fuel filler parts. I think there's a bit of money to be made there.

I ran into the same deal on my 78 stepside. It was a long fleet which I shortened and fitted a Craigslist short step bed to. Then my buddy gave me an 87 model tank. So, I wound up having a couple of fill tubes and a tank and couldn't figure out any decent way to connect them. I ultimately wound up buying a proper 78 model 16 gallon tank to fit the short wheelbase which had the same size fill tube as my other parts, then pieced it together similar to what you did. It works just fine, but I feel kind of ghetto with how it looks.

I hope I'm gonna be good on this deal. I have three different bezels coming to fit into my bed rail, my now straight filler neck, a good 90 degree mandrel bent tube, and three feet of 1 3/4 filler hose.

The ironic thing is, I have four separate orders in shipping to me right now between all of that stuff. Three of them are either lost or delayed in delivery.

I'm perfecting the virtue of patience.

[Low Elco]

Ha! 70 SWB Chev truck, aftermarket bedside, 91 Ranger fuel door/filler neck, 91 Jeep wrangler tank. The reducer to match the hoses is made from the top rail of a chain link fence. Works pretty good!

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Ha! 70 SWB Chev truck, aftermarket bedside, 91 Ranger fuel door/filler neck, 91 Jeep wrangler tank. The reducer to match the hoses is made from the top rail of a chain link fence. Works pretty good!

I think if I ever want to see the bewbies again I best not go cutting a section out of the fence around the house.

[rs74]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I think if I ever want to see the bewbies again I best not go cutting a section out of the fence around the house.

LOL!

[Tx Firefighter]

Today's truck update comes from the warmth of my couch. Like I have mentioned before, I do all my work on this truck outside of my shop due to space considerations. It's currently 28 degrees and falling, wind of 25 miles per hour, and it's sleeting. I'm just not into working out in that.

But, everyone's favorite person, the mail lady brought me some goodies today.

I suspect I'm the only guy to ever buy these lights in full LED configuration. I mean, they're called "boat trailer" lights by many folks. But, alas, my bed is set up for them and I will run them until I decide to reconfigure the bed tailboard.





Reminder of the busted lights I'm replacing.

[BB72CHEVKT]

This not the typical build thread I would follow but a great one no less. Patience and detail.

[Tx Firefighter]

Well it is 23 degrees but I didn't want to sit on the couch all day with no progress.

So, tailights installed. Everything all crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk. All lights on the truck are now LED. All new wiring. Everything loomed and run in conduit. Junction blocks. Heat shrink. Hopefully bombproof. Much work and time for little visible result.

Sorry about the audio. Between my runny nose and the sleet hitting the camera, it's not my best production.

Click picture for video.....



Nothing remarkable, but lack of progress makes me a very cranky man, so I had to at least do something.

[TheBlueBomber]

I feel you on the lack of progress grumbles...

[Low Elco]

You're a better man than I- I'm a giant cold sissy. Which reminds me- I need to go pick up a bigger Mr. Heater for the garage.

[rs74]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

You're a better man than I- I'm a giant cold sissy. Which reminds me- I need to go pick up a bigger Mr. Heater for the garage.

I had to go out last year and bought a 215,000 btu heater. Been finding it hard to leave the shop here lately. They are noisey but put out alot of heat.

[Tx Firefighter]

Half of my shop is very nice to work in. It's all insulated and drywalled with a big old Dearborn heater. I have all of my workbenches and tools in that part. So, on the taillights for instance, I crimped and soldered the wires in short sleeve comfort at my workbench, then ducked outside into the bad weather to bolt them on to the truck and connect the wires. That's why I'm a motorcycle restoration guy mainly. I can work in absolute comfort 12 months per year in that part of the shop. Motorcycle lift table in the center, tools at hand.

The cold side of my shop is where my powdercoat booth, blasting cabinets, compressor and stuff are. I avoid that section from about November through March. I have one of those torpedo heaters for the cold side of the shop, but it's noisy and uses more diesel than I care to feed it so I try to avoid it all together.

[jbailly]

Awesome job so far. This is want I want to do if I find one I can live with. Definitely a working mans build for a working mans working truck. Very cool.