53 Surburban "Family Truckster"

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Nice!! My boys 12 & 13 just learnt how to weld a week ago, building a off road trailer with me. Your 48 is great.

Thanks 50. I would like to get them involved more..

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Wow, you made a lot of progress for after 7 on a Sunday. Nice work on the brackets and tabs. And it is very cool your son was learning to weld.

Your truck looks really good out at the show and yes, I remember the Marlin. Not many around.

Thanks Doug, I felt pretty good about what I had to show for my garage time. I didn't even realize AMC made it. I was thinking it was a Chrysler product. How cool would it look bagged on big rims? Who am I kidding, I think everything looks cool bagged on big rims.

Originally Posted by Old Jimmy

Marc,

I've been following your burb build. You sure are doing nice work. I really like your 48 pickup. Maybe I'll be able to see it at Kalamazoo hot rod show.

I do remember seeing some Marlins: back in the day. AMC didn't start making power until they came out with Javlins and the AMX. Some of those were really quick.

Anyway, thanks for all your posts, helps me out a lot.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I learned sooo much building the 48. I didn't have the confidence to fabricate stuff like I do now. Yes, I look forward to the Kalamazoo show.

This site is a great place to share info. It's great if you find my build helpful because so many people have been helpful to me over the years.

Marc

[youngrodder]

A couple things that I forgot to mention was the plan is to be able to remove the gas tank from the bottom foe the Suburban. I plan to drill holes into the flanges of the tank and weld nuts to the top side of the tabs. That way I will bolt the tank to the flanges from the bottom. I will also add rubber to the lower brace as well as between the tank the tabs...

Marc

[RockinKees]

Nice pics from the show, thanks!!
Believe it or not, once there was a AMC Marlin driving in Purmerend (NL) a few years ago.
Purmerend of all places.....
See if I can find the old pics I have.

Cool your son is learning how to weld, before you know it he's taking over your shop!

I really don't believe you hadn't confidence to fabricate things....
The '48 looks awesome and all what you make now looks professional!!
You got great skills!!

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

Nice pics from the show, thanks!!
Believe it or not, once there was a AMC Marlin driving in Purmerend (NL) a few years ago.
Purmerend of all places.....
See if I can find the old pics I have.

Cool your son is learning how to weld, before you know it he's taking over your shop!

I really don't believe you hadn't confidence to fabricate things....
The '48 looks awesome and all what you make now looks professional!!
You got great skills!!

Thanks Kees..The older I get the more I like unique (odd ball) cars/trucks.

Yes, I try to get my boys in the garage as much as possible even if its to change the tube in their bike tire. Their generation is so used to their electronic devises I'm afraid that there generation might not be very handy with a tool in there hand.

The 48 truck was an 11 yr project. By the time the truck got finished, I really had confidence with fabrication. This is why I'm thinking that this Suburban project will get on road much faster then then truck.

I sold my Camaro roller (that donated its drivetrain for the Suburban) this weekend, so the hotrod fund got a shot in the arm...

Marc

[youngrodder]

So I sold my Camaro roller so that has provided some more Suburban money to play with. I found a smokin deal on a twin pack of black viair 444's. I also purchased the fuel pump and factory fuel filter that is recommend for these LS retro fits. I also worked on my gas tank some. This EFI tank was cheap but it looked like someone added a sketchy return fuel line into the top of the tank and sealed it with epoxy???. You might see the set up in the pic of the tank on my front steps. Since my pump has fittings for supply as well as a vent I decided to remove the extra line. I will need to weld up the small hole. I also needed to clearance the hole to drop in the fuel pump.

Next on the list is to figure out my air tanks I'm going with and start running some fuel lines. Like Doug, I plan to mock up the chassis (as much as possible) before pulling all apart to paint.

Oh I also got quite a bit of seat time in the 48 this weekend which is always nice.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Nice score on those pumps Marc! I kinda wonder if the little pumps that came with my Ridetech set up will be sufficient. Thinking same for my tanks too with a combined capacity just short of 5 gallons.

Seat time in your 48 is a good plus too.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice score on those pumps Marc! I kinda wonder if the little pumps that came with my Ridetech set up will be sufficient. Thinking same for my tanks too with a combined capacity just short of 5 gallons.

Seat time in your 48 is a good plus too.

Doug

I used (2) normal Ridetech compressors on my 48 and I have never had an issue. I don't play with my air ride much so I'm probably pretty easy on my compressors compared to some people.

I need to figure out my fuel line fitting to go from the fuel rail to the GM fuel filter with built in return line back to the fuel pump. any info/prt numbers you can share?

Marc

[reaper71]

Russell Main fuel (rail) fitting #640850 $17.97 3/8 -6
Russell return line fitting # 640860 $17.97 5/16 -6
both from summit.

Mark...

[reaper71]

This is a 3/8 -6 barbed fitting it allows you to use fuel inj. hose instead and screws onto the russell item.

I already had the russell ones on hand and just used them.
From jegs #555-110845 $2.99 each or same part diff manu. #259-98200 $3.27 ea.
Here are the fittings, blue is the russell.

Mark...

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by reaper71

Russell Main fuel (rail) fitting #640850 $17.97 3/8 -6
Russell return line fitting # 640860 $17.97 5/16 -6
both from summit.

Mark...

Thanks Mark. I found them listed in another web forum after my post. I'm pretty sure that I added these same prt numbers to my Summit wish list so that I have them handy.

I appreciate the info.......

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Mark always has good info.

A friend just plumbed up a swap in a 65 Pontiac wagon. He priced everything out on Jegs / Summit and ended up going with the LS Swap package from Tanks.

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd453.htm

Figured I would go this route too.

[reaper71]

You got it my friend,that's what this site is for...
Question..Do you have a pressure regulator on your fuel rail?
If you do you will not need the filter/regulator above.

[youngrodder]

Thanks Doug. I think I will use hard line for my fuel line. You know I like doing things the hard way.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

I used hard line on the last one....and probably had to redo it a couple times to get it right.

So I'll try this on the Burb and likely save myself a couple days of bending line.

[Root2812]

I am in the process of plumbing my fuel system. I went with Russel's proclassic line and Russel's AN fittings. Its really easy to do. I shopped around for all the parts separate and its turning out to not be very expensive at all.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Root2812

I am in the process of plumbing my fuel system. I went with Russel's proclassic line and Russel's AN fittings. Its really easy to do. I shopped around for all the parts separate and its turning out to not be very expensive at all.

Good to know...I think Doug made me rethink bending my own line. I was looking at that same Russel line.

I need to sit down and plan out all of the fitting I need.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

I might have made the hard line plumbing more difficult than it needed to be by running hard line from tank over to the pressure regulator mounted on the right rail, using the quick connect fittings. Return line too. There is a lot of shape and angles in that section and 3/8" line doesn't cooperate.
Plus I drilled and tapped every clamp for a 10-32 stainless button head fastener.
All under the car on a lift with the body on.
Would of course be easier with the body off.

[youngrodder]

I decided that it was time to assemble my engine stand that I bought last fall. I got the motor on it and I decided to start degreasing the engine. I used the follow degreasers and cleaners to get it this clean. (2) cans Gunk foaming degreaser. 1/2 bottle of simple green cleaner. Hot water from the hose. (2) cans of brake cleaner. I will top it all off with a little lacquer thinner on a rag to get what is left.

I'm pretty happy with how clean I was able to get the block.

Marc

[lower50's]

Cool looks like a new block!!

[joedoh]

amazing what a little elbow grease will do. and simple green is hands down the best cleaner when you have a greasy mess. I used to use a custom local mix knipps (ka-nipps) red hott but they havent made the original formula in years.

[oldman3]

Marc, block is looking good...Jim

[Advanced Design]

That does look good Marc. My iron block is rusty. Last one I spent hours and hours cleaning with simple green, using steel brushes and pics for the rust and loose paint.

Any better ideas for this one?

[reaper71]

Super clean and a power washer work's awesome!!

Just spray it on and let sit for a few minutes and spray off..
same stuff I used on Blake's and the paint stuck just fine.

Mark...

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by reaper71

Super clean and a power washer work's awesome!!

Just spray it on and let sit for a few minutes and spray off..
same stuff I used on Blake's and the paint stuck just fine.

Mark...

Thanks Mark, will give it a shot.

Sorry for the hijack Marc.

[xpickup]

Marc, the motor looks like a new one now. We have a hydraulic shop locally that has a bunch of fittings. They also have the in steel for faction of the cost of the russell ones. I don't know if you may have any shops like that. When I need fittingsthat is where I go first.

Shannon