It’s Just A Pickup

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by hotrod969

I need some help, if possible. I have a 1967 C10 long bed that my grandfather bought new. It has been "adapted" several times. ie...farm truck, tow truck (to pull a drag boat) and hopefully now a dependable eye catching occasional driver.
My current problem is the high speed of the wiper motor. I have a 3 wire switch which is good(by replacement and testing). The 3wires are LB, DB Black. Without removing the wiper/washer assembly the only connections I can find are 2 yellow/light blue as pictured else where in this forum.
The low speed, park, and washer work. Is this truly a 2 speed motor and if so how do I get it to work?

From what you said that you only have 2 connections on your wiper motor it appears you have a one speed motor installed (see picture below for difference between motors). If you have all the wiring and switch for a two speed wiper system you will need a two speed wiper motor.

If you have a two speed wiper motor make sure its wired to my post on page 22 post#527 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=22

[hotrod969]

Thank you for your reply. I have never been on one of these forums so I am having trouble navigating. I don't know where my post is. I got your response by e-mail notification.
As for the truck as I stated it has been in the family since new with long terms of inactivity. I am trying to get it dependable again. It appears it came from the factory with a single speed motor even-though it has a 2 speed switch and the owners manual lists it as a two speed. The black wire from the switch disappears into the wiring harness with the LB & DB wires never to be seen again.
My options appear to be: leave it as is, put in a 2 speed motor and run a new wire from the switch to the motor or strip out the harness and try to find the "disappearing" black wire?
Thanks again for the input.

[Seventy Two]

As always, yours thread is very informative. Thanks Bruce!

[raider65]

Awesome pics keep them coming

[waylon.brown1]

WOW!! just found your thread! subscribed!!

[chevytruckluver]

any updates Bruce?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

any updates Bruce?

Not really Trey unless you want to see some pictures of my yard (smile). Been mainly doing spring yard cleanup and those outside jobs around the house after coming out of winter.

Did find some time to run a few of the wires under the dash but not done with them yet.

There is one little thing, I didn’t like how the stock speedometer cable was routed it seemed to me that it needed to be a little bit longer. Was unable to find a speedometer cable the desired length so I plan on using a Lokar (SP-1500U) U-Cut-To-Fit speedometer cable kit. I found a problem with the Lokar instructions and sent them an e-mail with a possible correction to the instructions. (Hear is the e-mail and pictures posted below)

A possible problem that might exist for some with your U-Cut-To Fit GM & Chrysler Speedometer Cable Kit Installation Instructions.

I understand that this kit is a universal kit for GM & Chrysler speedometers with a 5/8 – 18 threaded ends and a transmission with a 7/8 – 18 threaded ends. But not all speedometers with a 5/8 – 18 threaded ends have the same end configuration.

I’m installing the Lokar SP-1500U speedometer cable kit on a stock 1972 Chevy C10 truck speedometer with a 5/8 – 18 threaded end. The Speedo cable tip does not sit flush with the Speedo end fitting. If I fallow your instruction (step 4) and mark the inner cable at the end of the fitting and not subtract the additional end that sticks out past this surface the cable will be binding inside the outer cable, if I could get it on (see attached picture).

I plan on subtracting .321 from the mark made per step 4 and cutting the inner cable there (not flush with the end). Per my calculations this should give me 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play to move back and forth and prevent any binding condition.

Not all speedometers are made the same and the .321 dimension above is just on my installation, other cars and trucks may have different dimensions. But if there is an area that extends out past where the surface that the Speedo end fitting will sit it needs to be taken into consideration before cutting and crimping the inner cable.

Possibly a note on step 4 that this condition might exist and needs to be checked and calculated into where to cut the inner cable. After the cable is cut and crimped it’s too late.

Hope you find this information a benefit to installing your speedometer cable kit for others.

Bruce



I should be able to post some updates on the build within a week or two. Hope this tidbit of information wets your appetite (smile)

Enjoy your build

[Bruce88]

Bending and twisting
Then looking for a comfortable position to see and do the work

All the wiring and parts are installed under the dash except the speedometer cable.
Glad to be out from under the dash and the wiring around the fuse block might not
look the best but it’s functional. I think that I just about maxed out the stock fuse
block with the added circuits and rerouting of some of the wires. I did put some
small labels on the added wires down at the fuse block to help identify the new
circuits. This should help in the future in remembering where all the wires run if I
ever have to figure out a problem (Hope not, but you never know) (smile).

Possibly a let down on documenting this post with all the new parts used. There
are plenty of small parts like little rubber bumpers, fire wall insulation, air ducks
and so on that where used. More than I feel like listing.

For those interested in the added wires and rerouting of some you need to look back
thru this build thread and you can see the wiring drawings that I made to help me
figure out how I was going to do it.

There’s so much going on behind this basic looking dash and the pictures probably
don’t show all the work that went into it, but hears some pictures I hope you find of
interest.







There’s plenty of wiring to do outside the dash area all the wires and lines added are
just run thru the firewall and still need to be hooked up. Onto the speedometer cable,
floor shifter, and floor covering. I better get to work (smile).

Enjoy your build

[DesertCat]

Hey Bruce, nice build and excellent documentation!

What length did you end up with for your speedo cable?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by DesertCat

Hey Bruce, nice build and excellent documentation!

What length did you end up with for your speedo cable?

Hi DesertCat

I haven’t installed or cut the speedo cable at this time but when I do I will post the length I ended up with.

I did contact Lokar concerning cutting the cable (see post #536) and their response from the tech department was that they had never run into the problem noted and was sending the information to their research and development department to take a look at it.

I think that my approach that I will use as stated in post #536 will work and plan on using it when I cut the cable.

Hopefully I will have that information for you in a week or two. I’m just slow some times, OK a lot of times (smile), and there’s some small little problems that have cropped up that I’m taking a look at (not associated with the speedo cable), that I like to take care of at the time they crop up. Sometimes in a build minor tweaking of a plan as you put it together is needed for my self satisfaction with the end results.

Enjoy your build
Bruce

[67cheby]

if you arent writing "HOW TO" manuals for a living i think you are missing your calling ....SUPER NICE WORK as always

[70LonghornCST]

Mr. Clean aint got nothing on this truck. OUTSTANDING!

[VA72C10]

nice work as usual!

[JasonBird]

looks like new Bruce! keep up the great work! your posts are very informative!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Nice job the wiring looks great.. Did I miss it or is there a reason the needles are different colors?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Nice job the wiring looks great.. Did I miss it or is there a reason the needles are different colors?

Good eye for detail, the speedometer is a very light/faded orange from age and the fuel gage is new. Give the fuel gage 30 years and they should look the same (LOL). One of those little details I didn’t take care of when I rebuilt the instrument cluster. I’m just going to live with it for now.

[propanemudtruck]

I imagine we'll live with it too then...

As always, great clean build and perfect documentation!

[gcburdic]

Originally Posted by Bruce88

Good eye for detail, the speedometer is a very light/faded orange from age and the fuel gage is new. Give the fuel gage 30 years and they should look the same (LOL). One of those little details I didn’t take care of when I rebuilt the instrument cluster. I’m just going to live with it for now.

Awww Bruce....with all this detail and you forget to do this it's a quick fix...I say go ahead and paint it bright

[nuke1]

Your builds and attention to detail always amazes me!!!

[DesertCat]

Thanks for the update on the speedo cable! That helps a lot.

This is one of the great things about a good forum with quality threads and pictures... I can sort out what I need and plan how I'm going to do it while being 9000 miles away from home.

BTW... there's some dust on that hood hinge, might wanna take care of that :-)

[Bruce88]

Close but not an exact match
Matching colors is an art (smile) hears my attempt

I took the instrument panel down to the hobby store to find a color for the needles on my instrument panel. And the paint listed in the picture below seemed to be the best choice I had with the paints available to me.

There’s plenty of problems with evaluating color, the light that you are trying to compare it in, how old or new/faded from time, or is the color you’re trying to match an original factory color. I didn’t have a factory new needle to compare to and used a new fuel gauge needle from LMC (hopefully it’s a close match to the factory color).

I painted both needles to eliminate any minor color difference between the new and old refinished needle that might occur. The inserts in the first two pictures was just a way for me to evaluate the end results and represents the colors in a numerical value.



This paint manufacture might not be available everywhere and if you decide to refinish your needles the same color as mine don’t be disappointed. Head on down to your local hobby store and find a color that you like (it might be a close match or something different). I just tried to get as close to a factory color as I could with what was available to me.

Enjoy your build

[VA72C10]

looks much better! another detail done right

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Much better nice job on the color match..

[gcburdic]

Ahhhh Bruce, I knew you would cave to peer pressure.....Nice job!!!

[Bruce88]

It shouldn’t be that hard to install
Or maybe it’s just my low self motivation of late that I need to work thru

I’m installing a LMC 38-2936 MIP Floor Mat W/Column Shift (1/8 inch thick molded polyvinyl mat). The mat is not just a drop in and it fits, there’s plenty of trimming and fitting.

The mat came with jute padding and it didn’t require any trimming except where I cut out a square section on the hump around where my floor shifter will be. I had some ¼ inch thick bed mat left over and made the black square (seen in the picture below) to seal the area around the shifter hole from water/dirt and the floor mat will sit on this seal at the same height as the pad. I did use some 2 inch double backed outdoor carpet tape in a few areas under the padding to help hold it in place, some would use spray adhesive for this.



The mat came folded up in a box, I laid it out inside the house for two days to get out the fold lines/creases and any deformity from being folded and boxed. That didn’t work to well there where still plenty of unwanted deformities that would prevent it from laying flat. Possibly if you could lay the mat out in a temp of 80 deg plus it might work better, but at 70 deg or lower the mat is still relatively stiff to work with.

The mat is molded to fit over the hump and the raised center area left to right on the floor. The mat has extra material on all the edges that will need to be trimmed to fit. I decided to start by positioning the mat to line up with the hump molded lines for left to right position and the raised center area molded area for the forward and aft starting points. Then I secured the mat in this place with fender washers and bolts at the seat mount locations on the raised center area, didn’t want the mat moving around from this position as I work at making it fit in other areas.

I used a heat gun and blocks of wood with bricks for weights to work out all the deformities from packing, working from the center aft and outboard. Found that I could only heat up about one square foot area at a time, then use the block of wood and bricks to hold it down and get it to lay flat then letting it cool and move on to the next area. Didn’t want to over heat it, just enough to get it to lay right.

I’m not going to be using all the seat mounting holes or the fuel tank mounting holes and I prefer not to leave any open holes to the outside. I’m installing some stainless steel alien head bolts with fender washers in theses open holes with a little grease on the threads to prevent corrosion. This helps to hold the mat in place and if in the future I decided to mount something there, the holes and threaded nut plates are there to use.

Working forward from the center point was a little more complicated. I only wanted the mat to go over the fire wall insulation mat by about 1 to 2 inches and not wanting to over trim it and end up short. There’s defiantly extra material on the front edge of the mat, for example I needed to cut about a 9 inch x 9 inch area out of the front edge at the center hump area just to get it under the heater. Working from the center forward and outboard the same as I did in the aft section and getting everything to lay right before final trimming was the objective. One area that I didn’t like how the mat was sitting was around the gas pedal, it was interfering with the gas pedal from going all the way to the floor. I installed a bolt and washer just above the gas pedal to hold the mat down in that area, if you look close in the picture below you can see the bolt and washer.





This mat installation is not the simplest and easiest and not wanting to wait for a hot day to aid in fitting. Plus not wanting to wait for that hot day and hoping that all the deformities from packing would work there way out and it would lay right after installing it. I definitely spent a lot of time working it into position for final trimming.

The other day as I was sitting around trying to get motivated to go out and work on the mat installation, I was just roaming around this forum and found a question in the general area that I thought I could help with. The question was about seat mounting bolt spacing. With the seat not installed, it was easy just to step out to the garage and take the measurements and a quick picture. Hears a link to throes that might be interested in that information http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=459208 . I can’t say thank you enough to all that have shown interest in this build thread and to the rest of the forum. As with all builds there will be some high spots and some low spots where things need a little inspiration and this forum helps overcome the low spots for me. Thank you

Enjoy your build