The Hillbilly Deluxe dually build

[Tx Firefighter]

Half of my shop is very nice to work in. It's all insulated and drywalled with a big old Dearborn heater. I have all of my workbenches and tools in that part. So, on the taillights for instance, I crimped and soldered the wires in short sleeve comfort at my workbench, then ducked outside into the bad weather to bolt them on to the truck and connect the wires. That's why I'm a motorcycle restoration guy mainly. I can work in absolute comfort 12 months per year in that part of the shop. Motorcycle lift table in the center, tools at hand.

The cold side of my shop is where my powdercoat booth, blasting cabinets, compressor and stuff are. I avoid that section from about November through March. I have one of those torpedo heaters for the cold side of the shop, but it's noisy and uses more diesel than I care to feed it so I try to avoid it all together.

[jbailly]

Awesome job so far. This is want I want to do if I find one I can live with. Definitely a working mans build for a working mans working truck. Very cool.

[Tx Firefighter]

Still waiting on parts fellas.

This bad weather shut down UPS and Postal Service deliveries. Should be seeing some of my stuff tomorrow. Then I'll get the fuel filler situation figured out.

Out of boredom I've been picking up some various tools on eBay. I need to put the iPad down and get back out into the shop to save some money. I'm a tool geek and have been buying a few specific MAC tools I wanted and some Martin body hammers. Nothing new of course. Only "seasoned vintage" stuff.

Patience...

[aggie91]

Kevin - tools are like these old trucks, they too can become an addiction...

[Tx Firefighter]

Karl,

I can't really justify my whims on particular tools. I've had a very nice set of SnapOn wrenches for 22 years now. I fixed a ton of cars and made a lot of money with them. But, a few years ago, I came up with a MAC 9/16 wrench somewhere. I don't even remember where. Found it in an old truck or something. Every since then, when I need a 9/16 wrench, I skip right over the rack of matching SnapOns and grap that lone MAC wrench. So, I've started to accumulate an entire set. They're just eBay singles that I pick up for 5 or 10 dollars every so often. They've always got some various blemish on them somewhere. I sure like them a ton better than the 500 dollar set of SnapOns.



Today, I went to the Post Office in person to find my missing stuff. It's very icy here and the mail lady has only been delivering stuff that will fit in the mailbox at the end of my driveway. She doesn't venture up icy driveways to deliver bigger packages. I don't blame her, its treacherous here and I wouldn't spend my entire day white knuckling up icy driveways either. So, there's literally large bins of packages accumulating at the Post Office. I got a nice lady down there that likes me who was nice enough to spend 20 minutes digging out my boxes.

Ford gas filler bezel from eBay. I got three of them in one auction that are various configurations.




Make template for the hole I need to cut...



Used my electric torch to slice the old filler out and make way for the new. Yes I went all safety minded and covered over the filler hose on the tank so the plasma sparks didn't do something that caused me to make the local news.




Test fit. Looks good so far. I need to make an addition below the bed side to finish out the opening. I'm working on that now.



Notice there's still ice on everything and I'm wearing gloves. I sure wish this crap would thaw off. There's a reason I live in Texas and not someplace "up north" where this is normal weather.

[Tx Firefighter]

I took some 1/8 inch plate and cut an extension to complete the opening then welded it to the bed.



Masked and sanded...



Then got out the heat gun and my finest can of Rustoleum rattle can. Using the heat gun, I was able to set and cure the paint enough that I think it will be okay with the low temperature. They way the truck is sitting the sun will be shining on it all day.



I'll let it sit until Friday before I mount the bezel and filler neck and drill the holes to secure it.

I have a large UPS delivery of parts that I need to finish this phase of the project that is stuck in UPS purgatory in Mesquite Texas. They shut down all operations for four days so there is apparently a huge backlog of stuff waiting to be delivered. Maybe tomorrow.

Now, I need help here. This is the hard line for the fuel filler vent tube. Its 5/8 of an inch O.D. Where can I buy a stick about 3 feet long of replacement hard line ? Is there some conduit or something that is a similar size ? I want to run a hard line parallel to the main filler line with little sections of hose connecting it to the filler neck and gas tank.



Anyone ?

[aggie91]

Do you have a hydraulic hose store like a Parker Store close to you? All the local shops here carry 5/8" steel hydraulic line in stock and will cut and bend to your drawing if needed. I beleive Stuart Hose & Pipe has a store in Ft. Worth and so does Midwest Hose & Specialty. They should have what you need.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Do you have a hydraulic hose store like a Parker Store close to you? All the local shops here carry 5/8" steel hydraulic line in stock and will cut and bend to your drawing if needed. I beleive Stuart Hose & Pipe has a store in Ft. Worth and so does Midwest Hose & Specialty. They should have what you need.

That's a good lead. I use a little hydraulic shop down in Fort Worth called Kim's International. I guess I could ask them. I don't really have a slick way of putting a nice smooth 90 degree bend in a 5/8" line anyway so I might need to call in the professionals.

[Tx Firefighter]

I think I'm gonna pop rivet the fuel filler to the bedside. I'm shooting for the finished product to be smooth and not something I'll snag on when working beside the truck with tie down straps or fuel up or whatever.

[83GMCK2500]

Oh crap, I just noticed there is a script oval visible on that fuel pocket. Any chance you can do a little sanding/filling on that? Looking good, glad the weather is tolerable enough for you to do some tinkering. You know some pan head or dome head allen bolts in stainless would look nice around there.

[Stoney]

Looks awesome, going to leave the Ford logo? I agree with the stainless bolt idea. Would look nice.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Oh crap, I just noticed there is a script oval visible on that fuel pocket. Any chance you can do a little sanding/filling on that? Looking good, glad the weather is tolerable enough for you to do some tinkering. You know some pan head or dome head allen bolts in stainless would look nice around there.

Originally Posted by Stoney

Looks awesome, going to leave the Ford logo? I agree with the stainless bolt idea. Would look nice.

Sounds like two guys trying to politely say "rivets will look cheesy. Go with screws". Am I right ? I want honest opinions.

[83GMCK2500]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Sounds like two guys trying to politely say "rivets will look cheesy. Go with screws". Am I right ? I want honest opinions.

Honestly, I think rivets will work just fine, just about every service bed I've seen has that pocket held in with rivets. I just didn't think that the rivet idea went with your level of attention to detail. You wet-sanded wheels for how long? Had how many fasteners coated?

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by 83GMCK2500

Honestly, I think rivets will work just fine, just about every service bed I've seen has that pocket held in with rivets. I just didn't think that the rivet idea went with your level of attention to detail. You wet-sanded wheels for how long? Had how many fasteners coated?

Point well taken. No reason to cut corners now. I haven't so far. I wanted this truck for 20 years and now that I have it, I'm not gonna sell it, might as well go all the way on every step. Nice stainless hardware is on the way.

By the way, thank you for the advice via PM on the K2500. I wound up not buying the truck. I'm playing the silent game now to see if he lowers his price to a level I'm more comfortable with. The engine is pretty tired and I'm wanting the price to reflect that more.

[rusty76]

At least pop rivets won't let loose. And will be less of a hassle too. Stainless steel screws will look nice though.

[Low Elco]

You could also put a 3/4" inch stitch weld on each corner. Your rivets won't come loose that way! Good lookin' work!

[Stoney]

I just don't think the rivets would hold up over time.

[SCOTI]

^^ x2.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

You could also put a 3/4" inch stitch weld on each corner. Your rivets won't come loose that way! Good lookin' work!

I was surprised to find these are fiberglass pieces. Judging by the ebay pictures, I figured they'd be steel. I have to use screws or rivets or duct tape or bubble gum.

Originally Posted by Stoney

I just don't think the rivets would hold up over time.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

^^ x2.

I appreciate the opinions fellas. I'm off to McMaster Carr to find some nice stuff. I can't buy it local as cheap as I can mail order bulk stuff from them. And, I end up with a lot of leftovers for my bolt bins.

[Tx Firefighter]

Stainless steel button head screws, Stainless lock nuts, and Stainless washers ordered from McMaster Carr. I got 100 of each for about what I'd have paid for 10 each at my local place.

These are the screws I got. Built in flange washer to keep from digging into the fiberglass bezel.



Here is where all of my fuel filler parts stand. Been waiting for a long time for UPS to get it delivered.

[Low Elco]

I like the screws. Don't forget the Anti-sieze! IDK how many hundred of those fuel cups I've riveted on, I worked for Knapheide building industrial trucks 1991-1994.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I like the screws. Don't forget the Anti-sieze! IDK how many hundred of those fuel cups I've riveted on, I worked for Knapheide building industrial trucks 1991-1994.

I'm researching now about bonding straps for the filler neck. I seem to remember that when the filler tube is isolated from body ground like it is with this fiberglass bezel, a bonding strap is required.

Any input ?

[MalibuSSwagon]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'm researching now about bonding straps for the filler neck. I seem to remember that when the filler tube is isolated from body ground like it is with this fiberglass bezel, a bonding strap is required.

Any input ?

I would do it. The stock filler neck on my 86 has a ground strap to the bed, since the filler cup is plastic.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'm researching now about bonding straps for the filler neck. I seem to remember that when the filler tube is isolated from body ground like it is with this fiberglass bezel, a bonding strap is required.

Any input ?

on my '98 it had one from the factory since the bezel was plastic that mounted the neck to the bed side. Required or not, it makes good sense to put on. A few dollars today vs, huge dollars later if something were to happen. Accidents do happen...

I would put one on.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'm researching now about bonding straps for the filler neck. I seem to remember that when the filler tube is isolated from body ground like it is with this fiberglass bezel, a bonding strap is required.

Any input ?

I'd screw/solder a standard ground strap to the filler neck and then sand off the paint on the back of one of those screws and screw it on. Alternatively, you could drill/tap a nearby crossmember for easy access, and sand/grease a nice bare spot. Knowing you, I'm sure you've already got hella bed/chassis grounds.