72 K30 Build

[flashed]

Looking great ,got a question if you dont mind .I looked back but cant find what gas tank you are using ,if I glazed over it could you point me to it ?

[First c10]

Looking good Brett. Keep it up.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Here’s how this has turned out so far. May still need a new longer soft line but this is without a bed and the axle resting on stands.

It's looking good!

On the soft line, I just checked back to what I used on my K30 buildup - it was for a 1993 S10 4.3 pickup, ACDELCO 18J821 - it's about 4-1/8" longer than what the original was, and it has the same end fittings. :2cents:

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by flashed

Looking great ,got a question if you dont mind .I looked back but cant find what gas tank you are using ,if I glazed over it could you point me to it ?

Thanks flashed! No problem http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=400 way back on page 16.

We're using one for a 1984 K20 5.7 Suburban, 31 gallon, big neck, w/o a tank baffle (14B). Research showed 3 are available in this same size & shape early 14A has a small fill neck and then 14C large fill neck with added in tank baffling/sump for an in tank pump. This sending unit has a return line port if we decide to try a newer throttle body type FI later on, to be plugged for now.

Rockauto links:

Tank https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...971259&cc=2795

Sending Unit https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...027554&cc=2795

Tank Straps https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...=17717&cc=2795

Originally Posted by First c10

Looking good Brett. Keep it up.

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

It's looking good!

On the soft line, I just checked back to what I used on my K30 buildup - it was for a 1993 S10 4.3 pickup, ACDELCO 18J821 - it's about 4-1/8" longer than what the original was, and it has the same end fittings. :2cents:

Thanks guys!

Jim, your 2 cents is always worth at least a $1.25! Good to know as this one I'm trying to use is pretty short. Anything I should know about the front soft lines? Also can you tell me where did you get your prop valve and is it a PV-2? Thank you sir!

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Jim, your 2 cents is always worth at least a $1.25! Good to know as this one I'm trying to use is pretty short. Anything I should know about the front soft lines? Also can you tell me where did you get your prop valve and is it a PV-2? Thank you sir!

High praise

I had no problems using the regular K20/K30 stuff up front on Red, if I dug around enough I could find the PN's but they were just the year matched parts for my '87 donor.

On the K30 I got the prop valve from Inline Tube, their PN PR102 - it's functionally the same as PV-2, but it has the correct style electrical connection on it to use the original warning light plug. I did end up having to extend that harness, though, because I mounted it down on the front cross-member (as the donor did).

In fact, I went back and checked the photo:


And sure enough, it's stamped PV-2 on the bottom You can see the original style rubber boot connector in there, as well.

Hope that helps!

[7dee2]

Jim you’ve been and continue to be a great help, I do appreciate it thank you. I took your advice and ordered the longer S10 soft line and so I’m thinking your 2 cents are now at least up to 2 fitty! With our plan of dropping the axle down to bleed the system the extra length is going to help.

Ha, that is you photo bombing the pic right?

I'd noticed the change in the boot connectors from earlier to later 78 & up. Thinking the only difference is they switched to a plastic screw in switch/insert we kept the old setup (sure it’s passed a lot of muddy fluid over the years) for mockup and still have a newer style pigtail. It’s kind of a tossup on which style to run no getting around a splice as we will position ours in the same area you did. Rest of the brake system is 84 K35 so I’m leaning that way with the later style prop valve.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Jim you’ve been and continue to be a great help, I do appreciate it thank you. I took your advice and ordered the longer S10 soft line and so I’m thinking your 2 cents are now at least up to 2 fitty! With our plan of dropping the axle down to bleed the system the extra length is going to help.

Ha, that is you photo bombing the pic right?

I'd noticed the change in the boot connectors from earlier to later 78 & up. Thinking the only difference is they switched to a plastic screw in switch/insert we kept the old setup (sure it’s passed a lot of muddy fluid over the years) for mockup and still have a newer style pigtail. It’s kind of a tossup on which style to run no getting around a splice as we will position ours in the same area you did. Rest of the brake system is 84 K35 so I’m leaning that way with the later style prop valve.

My pleasure! And yes, it is. If it wasn't, that'd be super creepy

Functionally, the switches are exactly the same, so it really doesn't matter. The '78+ ones are easier to disconnect, if you ever needed to do that, but otherwise, it's a wash. I'm using the later style one on my '50

[7dee2]

While the new front housing is out (hot tank, king pin cones, etc.) stuck the old one back in place to set the upper shock mounts we also got the front brake line mounts in as well. During our earlier mockup of the hard lines I had thought we were going to have a run an additional splice in piece for the rear brake line (to short?). But after straightening out a few spots in the front section it looks like it will just reach.

[7dee2]

Started working the front fuel hard line it’s approximately a -9-10’ straight shot. The rear most section looks like it will be this Gates 6LOC hose as it snakes around and gets fairly tight in back by the tank. Our plans also include adding this old school large screw on remote fuel/oil filter setup I pulled off our RV donor. I was able to cross the old Clark filter to a NAPA, Wix, Fram which are all still available. Pretty sure the old tanks on the RV were rusty is why somebody had put this on it. Its bit overkill I know but our truck could practically run on mud if needed with that filter!

[SaltyC20]

I like the canister fuel filter idea. It really adds to the workhorse truck vibe. Thank you for the great build thread.

[fun in dirt]

Keep up the good work - this is gonna be super nice & so worth it when you finish!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by SaltyC20

I like the canister fuel filter idea. It really adds to the workhorse truck vibe. Thank you for the great build thread.

Thank you SaltyC20! A buddy told me the filter was overkill and I said your getting it that's the whole idea!

Originally Posted by fun in dirt

Keep up the good work - this is gonna be super nice & so worth it when you finish!

Thank you for the kind words fun in dirt, I can't wait to start driving it!

[flashed]

Im going to have to keep an eye out for a filter set up like that for my old Ton when I get to it ,mine has fuel issues too .

[RedRoad]

I tape cow magnets to regular plastic filters and it stopped the issues I had with a rusty tank

[rgunlock]

You are totally on a roll Brett - looking great!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by flashed

Im going to have to keep an eye out for a filter set up like that for my old Ton when I get to it ,mine has fuel issues too .

Originally Posted by RedRoad

I tape cow magnets to regular plastic filters and it stopped the issues I had with a rusty tank

Our RV donor also had a switchable (manual on/off) electric pusher pump inline right after the screw on filter, when the mechanical pump would start to starve you could kick that on. Seemed to work well as we needed it on one of the very first hills we had to climb bringing it home (a 300 mile cruise).

Originally Posted by rgunlock

You are totally on a roll Brett - looking great!

Thanks Rick! Pushing to make the final roller, then a running roller, then you know!

[7dee2]

I’ve been expecting our new replacement front housing to be done anytime now, just needed a hot tank, new king pin cones installed and inner seals. We’re onto our 2nd vendor after the 1st was just too busy, we kept getting the old we’ll get to it next week response. Ring gear is on the carrier and we’re pretty much ready to reassemble when it gets back. Thinking now will be a good time to finish putting the rear brakes/hubs together. Anyone notice an issue with the old shoes?

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

I’ve been expecting our new replacement front housing to be done anytime now, just needed a hot tank, new king pin cones installed and inner seals. We’re onto our 2nd vendor after the 1st was just too busy, we kept getting the old we’ll get to it next week response. Ring gear is on the carrier and we’re pretty much ready to reassemble when it gets back. Thinking now will be a good time to finish putting the rear brakes/hubs together. Anyone notice an issue with the old shoes?

Unless my eyes deceive me, it looks like you had the narrow single wheel pads on one of those rear wheels?

[7dee2]

Ha, I'd finally noticed those shoes were different just the other day when I was about to start pulling the hardware off of them they don’t call me Mr. Observant for nothin’.

The newer longer rear soft line is here (thanks again Jim). The keyed fitting has seen a change but the newer style is all the local house of hose had as well so a quick modification to the bracket was an easy fix. Managed to modify it so it even still locks in place and won’t rotate. Shoes are on and ready for the drums/hubs to be added. New CPP proportioning valve (PV-2) arrived and is mounted all that’s left up front is the soft lines and the lines to the MC.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

The newer longer rear soft line is here (thanks again Jim). The keyed fitting has seen a change but the newer style is all the local house of hose had as well so a quick modification to the bracket was an easy fix. Managed to modify it so it even still locks in place and won’t rotate.

Huh, I wonder if that's a year difference? My '87 donor didn't have that key like that, it matched right up.

That chassis is looking stellar!

[7dee2]

Thanks Jim it's just nice to work on something clean! Yeah I'm guessing somewhere between 1984 to 1987 they made this change.

[7dee2]

The drums/hubs are on good enough to roll (no axles or fluid yet), they’ll have to come back off for emergency brake cables in the near future. Buttoned up the fuel line, massive fuel filter shocks etc. Time to move our attention to the front diff.

[flashed]

Looking good ,staying tuned .

[7dee2]

Thanks flashed!

It’s back, hot tanked with the new upper king pin cones and the inner seals installed.

[rgunlock]

Roller by the weekend?