LockDoc's "Low Budget", "Low Maintenance" Project Thread

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

That is very nice Leon . I've been sitting back watching and am impressed with the amount of money you saved by using what you have. I need to learn how to use up some of my extra parts I been sitting on before they're not worth using.

Thanks Mike. I have sold quite a few parts locally but I wanted to get this last project done so I could make sure I had enough decent parts to finish it. I have a short fleetside truck back in the corner of the shop that my boy wants to finish up. I started it back in 2008 so it has been on the back burner for a while.....

[jerry moss]

Leon great job on a small budget and a sturdy working truck

that's kind of how i'm building my 69/72 suburban-just stuff i already had or traded for. and according to my homeowners insurance I still have too much "stuff"

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jerry moss

Leon great job on a small budget and a sturdy working truck

that's kind of how i'm building my 69/72 suburban-just stuff i already had or traded for. and according to my homeowners insurance I still have too much "stuff"

Thanks Jerry.

Luckily my homeowners insurance doesn't care how much stuff I have. When the adjuster came to look at my Derecho damaged barn, I had everything from the barn out in the yard (and it was a LOT of stuff) all he said was (Quote) "You had all of that stuff in the barn?" Yep, every bit of it. He said "WoW"....
.

[LockDoc]

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I installed the "Real" truck mirrors today....
.

[zicc1835]

now its REALLY a truck LOL...... looks great

[CG]

Such a neat truck. You really did an awesome job!

[Getter-Done]

Looking Good

[clay68c10]

So what’s the first thing you’re going to tow??

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

now its REALLY a truck LOL...... looks great

Thanks... I couldn't see too much out of that little round mirror...

Originally Posted by CG

Such a neat truck. You really did an awesome job!

I appreciate that Mark.

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Looking Good

Thanks.

Originally Posted by clay68c10

So what’s the first thing you’re going to tow??

It depends on which one of my other vehicles breaks down first...
.

[Sheepdip]

Leon you built a fine specimen there....If GM would have built it, this is what it would have looked like! Congrats on a well done conversion.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Sheepdip

Leon you built a fine specimen there....If GM would have built it, this is what it would have looked like! Congrats on a well done conversion.

Thanks. That is what I was trying to accomplish and I think it came out pretty close.

[LockDoc]

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Took the truck to get the alignment done and deliver an ashtray to a friend of mine. Ended up covering 136 miles overall. Garmin shows 11 MPG. I was hoping for a little more but I have a hard time keeping my foot out of it....

I am going to be removing the instrument cluster in the next day or so to see if I can figure out why the temp gauge isn't working. Anyone know what the OHM reading is on the Chevy 8.1L temp sender?

I am also thinking about installing the extra pair of Jeep JK headlights I have.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I am also thinking about installing the extra pair of Jeep JK headlights I have.

I sure like the ones I put in the Burb.

[LockDoc]

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Originally Posted by 3757chevy

I sure like the ones I put in the Burb.

Thanks.


I finally got around to installing my Jeep JK headlights today. When I installed the set in my '67 Panel Truck I didn't have to make any modifications to anything, but with this set I had to make a couple of modifications to the headlight bucket. It must be because of the difference in the way the headlights mount in the core support on the '67 & '68 trucks.

I bought these on e-Bay. The headlights I bought were from a private seller that changed his over to something different. They are in excellent condition. You have to be careful because there are a lot of look alikes. They do make exact replacements too but you have to watch, some of them come with bulbs and some don't. The easy way to tell the OEM's are by the back. I think the lights are the same from 2007-2015.

The first picture shows the parts and the second picture shows the modifications I had to make to the buckets. Third picture shows the adapter harness. They are available here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/13094045132..._redirect=true

Fourth picture shows a closeup of one of the headlights installed, and the fifth shows both headlights. I am still going to install the headlight relay upgrade one of these days.

I adjusted them using these instructions.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...3&d=1426438429

It worked good.....
.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Thanks.


I finally got around to installing my Jeep JK headlights today. When I installed the set in my '67 Panel Truck I didn't have to make any modifications to anything, but with this set I had to make a couple of modifications to the headlight bucket. It must be because of the difference in the way the headlights mount in the core support on the '67 & '68 trucks.

I bought these on e-Bay. The headlights I bought were from a private seller that changed his over to something different. They are in excellent condition. You have to be careful because there are a lot of look alikes. They do make exact replacements too but you have to watch, some of them come with bulbs and some don't. The easy way to tell the OEM's are by the back. I think the lights are the same from 2007-2015.

The first picture shows the parts and the second picture shows the modifications I had to make to the buckets. Third picture shows the adapter harness. They are available here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/13094045132..._redirect=true

Fourth picture shows a closeup of one of the headlights installed, and the fifth shows both headlights. I am still going to install the headlight relay upgrade one of these days.

I adjusted them using these instructions.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...3&d=1426438429

It worked good.....
.

Mine had the Chrysler/Jeep part number on the back and I new the Jeep they came out of 'cause I got them from a friend. I don't remember having a issue with the outer part of the bucket but I did modify that spot in the center hole. I did the relay upgrade and like the brightness without dimming.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Mine had the Chrysler/Jeep part number on the back and I new the Jeep they came out of 'cause I got them from a friend. I don't remember having a issue with the outer part of the bucket but I did modify that spot in the center hole. I did the relay upgrade and like the brightness without dimming.

Thanks Mike. They looked like they were going to work after I cut the notch but on closer inspection the units were not seated down all the way against the buckets. It wasn't much, but I had to grind the reliefs to make them sit flush.

[LockDoc]

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I had time this afternoon to pull the instrument cluster out of the Dually. (picture 1) I wanted to install an extra cluster I had while I worked on the one I pulled out. I went to install it and noticed that it was from a big truck. The area that the column fits into is different on the big truck bezel. (picture 2) What to do? Get out the coping saw of course.... (Picture 3) That makes a c10-c30 cluster out of it.... (picture 4)

It's raining here today so I won't be able to test it out until tomorrow.

[zicc1835]

interesting timing on your headlight install info
I had my truck out tonight and can't see $h.t. I have the old sealed beams in and do have a pair of ( im not sure what they are) I had in my 72 im going to try them first they are sealed with the signal light in the bottom half never did like them but they worked cuzz I used a earlier bumper without the signals in the bumper........... and yes love that Satin Black on your truck

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

interesting timing on your headlight install info
I had my truck out tonight and can't see $h.t. I have the old sealed beams in and do have a pair of ( im not sure what they are) I had in my 72 im going to try them first they are sealed with the signal light in the bottom half never did like them but they worked cuzz I used a earlier bumper without the signals in the bumper........... and yes love that Satin Black on your truck

Thanks Doc. I was having the same problem with mine. It was like having no lights at all. The JK headlights made all the difference in the world.... I read somewhere that with the turn signals in the lights you can't see them with the lights on. ?

[LockDoc]

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Well, the temp gauge still doesn't work so it has to be something with the sender. Bummer....

[LockDoc]

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I Bench tested the temperature gauges this afternoon. They all test good.

Here is how I did it.

Use a 9 volt battery. Connect a jumper from the Positive terminal on the battery to the Positive post on the gauge. (red wire)

Connect the Negative terminal on the battery to the Ground post on the gauge (black wire).

Connect the yellow wire to the Sender post on the gauge.

When you touch the other end of the yellow wire to the backplate the needle should go all the way over to "hot" side. If the gauge is not mounted to the backplate just touch the free end of the yellow wire to the post on the gauge that the black wire is connected to and it will make the needle go to the "hot" side. This will let you know if the gauge is good.
.

[pjmoreland]

You're gauges are probably good, but I encountered a temperature gauge once that passed the test you did above, and it was still bad. The needle wouldn't move from C after the engine warmed up. I think there was an internal short in one of the windings that still let it work partially. Because of this, I like to test these gauges by connecting the Sender post to a second 90-Ohm resistor, and then connect the other side of that resistor to ground. In this state, the needle should move to the normal operating temperature position where the needle is approximately 1/8" to the right of the second line.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

You're gauges are probably good, but I encountered a temperature gauge once that passed the test you did above, and it was still bad. The needle wouldn't move from C after the engine warmed up. I think there was an internal short in one of the windings that still let it work partially. Because of this, I like to test these gauges by connecting the Sender post to a second 90-Ohm resistor, and then connect the other side of that resistor to ground. In this state, the needle should move to the normal operating temperature position where the needle is approximately 1/8" to the right of the second line.

Thanks Patrick. So I could use a stock resistor off of the back of an old gauge, right?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Thanks Patrick. So I could use a stock resistor off of the back of an old gauge, right?

Yes

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Yes

Good deal. Thanks.

I will re-test the two gauges that way today.