Dutch '59 Fleetside Longbed

[oldman3]

Kees, nice job on the cover...Jim

[Kim57]

Very nice job on the trans cover.
Kim

[Nut Case]

Kees check "
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Corona, California
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Re: Dunce's 59 Fleetside build

Post 147 for upper seat belt attachment.

NC

[RockinKees]

Thanks NC, I did see that one.
But it's a big window, so maybe there's another solution for small windows?
It's a good one tho!

[RockinKees]

Didn't do much last week.
But I managed to make a prototype doorlatch system out of a BMW 520i.
Those cars are easy to find at the scrapyard, that's why I used this one.

The stock doorlatches on my truck were in very bad shape, you had to throw the door with such force to get them locked. If they locked...
I do not think that's save, so I've come uo with this:


I've got a complete set: doorlatches, strikers, locks, inside and outside handles, cables, you name, I've got it.

But I only used the latches and strikers yet. Used the original metalwork from the door and B-pillar as templates.

First I made the latch fit the door:



I draw the contours of the latch on the door that have to be removed, but in such way, I kept the windowslider at the inside of the door.

First made a template of cardboard and took it over to 16 gauge metal:


Bend it in the right shape, and made the hole for the claw:






This part is being bolted to the door, just in case I have some repair on the latch. This way I always get to it.

I also had to reverse the handle on the latch to get room to operate the latch. Now it works as it should.


Now I have to make a lever that works with my stock outside doorhandle and the new latch. I know I can make this work, so give me a bit of time

On to the B-pillar:
Ground a big piece out of it...


Made a piece of 14 gauge flat steel to fit into this hole


Put the striker at the right place, made some holes and bolted the striker in his place:




With no adjustment or what so ever , I shut the door and fell right into it's lock
It works great!!



Now it's only welding and grinding new metal to make it nice, but that is work for after my vacation.

Some purists will say this latch is a no go, but I don't care, its a little bit bigger then a stock doorlatch, but when its done, it just a nice working latch, and a hell of a lot saver then those stock locks that wouldn't shut most of the time.

Oh, my new headers came in last Friday, now I can see if I can make these fit. I only have one week before I leave on vacation, I want to turn the truck into a roller, so the truck can be moved to another barn for five weeks, before I get back to it..
Hope these will work with the steeringcolumn, pics of it come tomorrow

[Advanced Design]

Kees, really nice work on the door latches. Enjoy your vacation time!

[RockinKees]

Thanks Doug!
I still have a week and a half to get it rolling

[OrrieG]

Nice solution but I would rethink your decision to just use three small screws to secure the latch to the door. Odds are low, but it you ever get in a roll over situation (been there) stress on the top and a pillar will pop those screws in a second. I would add some short perimeter welds, easy to grind off later but lots of peace of mind. Also will keep everything in alignment when your strong arm friends slap the door because "that is what you need to do" on old trucks and cars.

[RockinKees]

Ah, I see you don't know me OrrieG...

As I said it is a "prototype" I meant this is just the beginning.
Those three screws are there to just hold it in place, there are nuts and bolts welded in in the future
So don't worry, everything is going to be stronger then factory

[oldman3]

Kees, like where your going with this, can't wait to see the finish set up...Jim

[Kim57]

Very nice solution to the door latches.
Kim

[RockinKees]

Thanks Jim and Kim!!

Test fitted the new headers today.
They don't come even close to the rack & pinion
But....just as Nev68, I now must re-route the column around the header, I think this is possible with use of an extra bearing.




Just needed a little notch in the upper framerail.





Column hits the header, and I must re-route the brakelines.



I think I have to go around the header at the outside, someone have an alternative option?
Don't want to cut the header up....

And with my vacation in mind, had to get the truck rolling, well, it now stands at his own wheels for the first time!!!
I'm happy

[CMACDONALD1]

this is the style of header I have on mine with a mustang II front suspension. By the way have a great holiday!

[CMACDONALD1]

I just went back through your thread and seen that you already tried this style of header. It looks to me you could move that engine back quite a bit. If it was me I would move that engine back.

[Katrina/10]

Too bad you have to move again.

[Baddflash]

Well it's good those headers fix one issue but too bad they cause another. From what I can see the outside looks like your only option unless you change the position of the column it also looks like you'll need a few u-joints to get around the headers but you can certainly work with that.

Cory

[lower50's]

Nice job on the latch. Glad you finally found headers that will work.

[Advanced Design]

Kees, the headers look really good. You can route the steering around. Here are some options and ideas that may help....http://www.borgeson.com/Designing/basic.html

[Kim57]

Nice looking headers.
Truck looks good on the ground.
Kim

[RockinKees]

Kees, the headers look really good. You can route the steering around. Here are some options and ideas that may help....http://www.borgeson.com/Designing/basic.html

Thanks for the website Doug, they have good info!!
My first thought is the one second to last...

Re: Dutch '59 Fleetside Longbed
Too bad you have to move again.
__________________
Gary

It's only while I'm on vacation
It isn't so bad....It's 8 meters away from here

Well it's good those headers fix one issue but too bad they cause another. From what I can see the outside looks like your only option unless you change the position of the column it also looks like you'll need a few u-joints to get around the headers but you can certainly work with that.

Cory

I knew this was going to be a problem, but I will solve it

CMACDONALD1's option is not going to work for me, yes, I could set back the engine about 1,5" but that won't give me the clearance I need.

Nice job on the latch. Glad you finally found headers that will work.

Thanks Lower50's!!

Nice looking headers.
Truck looks good on the ground.
Kim

Thanks Kim!
It has to come down a bit more, but first I have to see it with all the metal on it when finished.

[RockinKees]

Today we put the bed on, temporary, because of my coming vacation.

Everybody says the four XJ12 shocks are stiff, but I found out they are quite soft.
With some things in de bed such as half the front clip, the truck is even too low

First I took some supports away to clear the diff. have to reposition the two middle ones.



Then we put the bed back on to see what it looks like:



Rear is just right, front has to come down a bit, I think 2" is enough.





Remeber, it's a steady lowered truck, no airbags, so I can't go to low with all those speedbumps overhere....

Now it's just clean the supershed and roll the truck into the next shed for about 5 or 6 weeks before I can start wrenching again.
But, I also can use some vacation

[Advanced Design]

Looks really good sitting there! Your vacation is 5 or 6 weeks in a row? Very nice!

[Kim57]

Looks real good.
Kim

[RockinKees]

Doug, 4 weeks in a row

Thanks Kim!! By the way, how's your truck doing lately?

[ptc]

Kees, those headers are just what the doctor ordered!!! looks great! I think you will find much less headache with these overall than where you were. You might want to wrap the collectors after you get the muff pipes on as it will keep your floorboards cooler too....

Enjoy the vaca!!!!