Project: Recycle

[Frizzle Fry]

Hey Scoti,

Where did you get those conical spacers you are running with the Del-Spheres on the trailing arms? Did Nate include them or did you source them?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Hey Scoti,

Where did you get those conical spacers you are running with the Del-Spheres on the trailing arms? Did Nate include them or did you source them?

Got them from Nate w/the pivot joints.

[c10addict]

Looking good my man! Maybe this will inspire me to finish one of my projects!!

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Got them from Nate w/the pivot joints.

Thanks. Mine were shorted but Nate has it covered as usual Keyed in on those after attempting to make my own without a lathe -> Not recommended...

[67cheby]

come on its been since 3-13 and no pics !!! do be stingy we want to see !!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Hey Scoti,

Where did you get those conical spacers you are running with the Del-Spheres on the trailing arms? Did Nate include them or did you source them?

Frizzle,... If you need some misalignment spacers,... Summit Machine is a good source. They are great to deal with.
http://www.summitmachine.com/index.php?p=customParts.

[SCOTI]

It felt good to get the d.shaft hurdle over with & then....... more hurdles.

I got some new (China) 2.5" ram-horn manifolds in on Monday. Picked them up @ lunch & installed them that night only to find the driver side exhaust flange exits dead center in front of the R&P shaft. They look really good on there but are a no-go unless I add another u-joint, support bearing, & shaft to the mix. In the end, I'll spend an extra ~$150 only to have the steering/u-joints snaking around the manifold which is a visual detraction IMHO.... For the same $$, I could use the Speedway 'horns' (because they tuck just a little closer to the block) & utilize a single shaft w/u-joints @ each end. Much less complicated & should allow the focus to remain on the motor.

I also tried working on the 'pre-bent' 3/8" suburban fuel line I had. I wanted to try & tweak it to work w/the chassis. Of course, as I was trying to get things looking right, I just couldn't get it how I wanted & wound up cutting it into 'sections' making it work better. Unfortunately, w/everything snaked & tweaked to fit the chassis, what I could utilize wasn't enough length. I researched online for an obtainable (local) alternative & bought some new 60" lengths of 'poly-armour' lines. They're supposed to be easier to work with & much more resistant to the elements (rusting). Well, they might be easier to bend, but they certainly don't like the flaring tool.

So, that's where I am tonight. No 60's exhaust manifolds (I do have the shorty headers on there for now while contemplating options) & no fuel line (seriously contemplating rubber FI hose as it would reeeeeeeeeeeealy make plumbing within the confines of the frame rail easier).

[watahyahknow]

would if flare eazier if you heated the end up ?

[VA72C10]

you need some cunifer

I might know someone who has some for sale...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=452251

Or find some locally....supposed to bend and flare easier....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

you need some cunifer

I might know someone who has some for sale...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=452251

Or find some locally....supposed to bend and flare easier....

I have read info on the 'cunifer' type of lines & the material looks promising w/the one exception it comes in a coil (I like nice, crisp, straight lines). It's difficult to take the coiled material & get it dead on straight w/o some tooling.

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

....I ran braded hose from my tank to the fuel pump and used made for you products line clamps seemed to install really easy and I had no problems making any corners I needed to make.

This was my initial plan (I looked @ PTC fuel line/fittings). But, since my tank & pump were going to just get some standard worm style clamps to secure the hose ends, it seemed kind of 'over-kill'.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Hey scoti I ran braded hose from my tank to the fuel pump and used made for you products line clamps seemed to install really easy and I had no problems making any corners I needed to make.

[watahyahknow]

one way to get coiled line straight is to clamp one end in a vice on a sturdy table and the other end in vicegrip pliers roll it all the way out slack it a little and yank on it hard so it will whip/twang and it will be straight
handle it carefully so it doesnt bend again while setting it down , having someone helping you at the vice end does help with that , you then only need to get the flatten ends cut of it

[Jonboy]

Since you are going carbed, the FI hose might be overkill, too. The guys here told me I was good with regular fuel hose going with TBI. I just put small barbs in my hardlines to hold it, and it seemed to be doing fine.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Jonboy

Since you are going carbed, the FI hose might be overkill, too. The guys here told me I was good with regular fuel hose going with TBI. I just put small barbs in my hardlines to hold it, and it seemed to be doing fine.

Yes, the FI hose is over-kill. But, it's simple to acquire vs. ordering some special race style 'braided' stuff from Sumiit, Jegs, etc.... I figure the ability to withstand the addition pressures used w/FI set-ups would be an added benefit in just a carb'd application.

I used several feet of rubber FI line on my 68 as well & simply made replacing it part of my 'annual' maint program.

[SCOTI]

I got some sheet metal work done this weekend. The rear cab-wall pinch weld was removed & about 1" was taken out of the rear cab support. I also cut out a 5.5" wide section of floor under the seat (from the tallest part of the floor aft of the trans hump to the rear cab support). The cab should drop down onto the rolling chassis w/o issue now & clear the 1pc. d.shaft @ full dump. Once the cab is set down & I can 100% confirm everything clears (& is symetrical), I'll close out the open sections.

I also hit the local cruise joint on Sat night & got some good reference views from a truck that had a PB Dropmember. I confirmed my estimate of where the front inner wheel wells need to be trimmed for upper a-arm/bag mount plate clearance.

My buddy came over to help me get the bed back on late this afternoon (early evening). The sky was pretty dark/cloudy most of the day & it appeared we might get some rain so we loaded the truck back onto the trailer & returned it to storage. We were jammed for time so I didn't stop to get some pics but I will this week. I'm freakin worn out.....

[Painter D]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I got some sheet metal work done this weekend. The rear cab-wall pinch weld was removed & about 1" was taken out of the rear cab support. I also cut out a 5.5" wide section of floor under the seat (from the tallest part of the floor aft of the trans hump to the rear cab support). The cab should drop down onto the rolling chassis w/o issue now & clear the 1pc. d.shaft @ full dump. Once the cab is set down & I can 100% confirm everything clears (& is symetrical), I'll close out the open sections.

I also hit the local cruise joint on Sat night & got some good reference views from a truck that had a PB Dropmember. I confirmed my estimate of where the front inner wheel wells need to be trimmed for upper a-arm/bag mount plate clearance.

My buddy came over to help me get the bed back on late this afternoon (early evening). The sky was pretty dark/cloudy most of the day & it appeared we might get some rain so we loaded the truck back onto the trailer & returned it to storage. We were jammed for time so I didn't stop to get some pics but I will this week. I'm freakin worn out.....

Which local cruise joint?.................Kellers?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

come on its been since 3-13 and no pics !!! do be stingy we want to see !!

I haven't been by the storage place since moving it & it's difficult to get pics in a dark unit (no lighting & a PITA to roll out/back in solo). Pics will come once I'm closer to swapping the body to the new chassis.

I did get the exhuast manifolds in & ordered some other parts to finish up the doors/door glass installation. I also took several pics of factory 67-72 truck accessory set-ups @ the GG's show to determine how the brackets are assembled & how compatible (if) they'll be w/the different manifolds.

Originally Posted by 69chevyshort

Which local cruise joint?.................Kellers?

Yep. I went out there the weekend before Good Guys.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I may have mislead you mine is just rubber hose with the stainless sleeve ove the top with regular hose clamps holding it all together got it all from summit IIRC and it was pretty cheap..

[72BlckButy]

That is going to be a killer looking exhaust...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

That is going to be a killer looking exhaust...

It should be fairly quiet too since this pipe is a little thicker than standard exhaust tubing (SS exhaust tubing is heavier wall vs. aluminized steel). There will be a slight weight concession but it should be a good trade off.

[67cheby]

Cool..........

[watahyahknow]

youre going to need some stainless roundbar and a bit of flatbar to make the hooks for the hangers

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

youre going to need some stainless roundbar and a bit of flatbar to make the hooks for the hangers

No problem w/that.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Very nice exhaust bummer about the brake line action rusting..

[watahyahknow]

usually brakeline have this ugly greenish gold plating to prevent that maibe they stopped that lately deu to cost