Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

I had another idea on you trying to start the engine.

Get the fuel bowls full and use fuel hose to hook the fuel pump to a gas can. If you can get it to run from the gas can it might be another issue down with the tank or fuel lines.

Make sense?

Lastly going back to the carb adjustment - might want to up the fast idle screw. Could keep it idling vs dying.

Now my starter pinion is not disengaging from the flywheel and it won't crank over. Seems like it's under to much weight. I keep adding shims and this hasn't helped with the clearance. I've used as much as 1/16" + (2) 1/32" shims and no luck.. Man this is starting to get frustrating. I'm on the goaline and can't punch her in.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Now my starter pinion is not disengaging from the flywheel and it won't crank over. Seems like it's under to much weight. I keep adding shims and this hasn't helped with the clearance. I've used as much as 1/16" + (2) 1/32" shims and no luck.. Man this is starting to get frustrating. I'm on the goaline and can't punch her in.

What starter do you have?

I used the PowerMaster, and I know it said not to crank for more than 30 or so seconds at a time or it could damage the solenoid. Any chance you burned that up?

[SeventyOne]

you know Mike it might be worth the $75 or whatever to get a regular starter from Orielly just to see if it takes less shims.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

What starter do you have?

I used the PowerMaster, and I know it said not to crank for more than 30 or so seconds at a time or it could damage the solenoid. Any chance you burned that up?

I have a powermaster. I thought at first I might have burned it out but i never cranked on it for more than 10 seconds at time.

I took a couple days off to clear the mind and I swear that helps when you go back to working on these darn ol trucks. Turns out my battery was starting to lose juice.. I tested it and it was only pulling 10 Volts... Plugged it into a charger last night and will get back after it today.

It makes sense because the starter was cranking and disengaging from the flywheel with no problems when I first installed it without using shims..

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

you know Mike it might be worth the $75 or whatever to get a regular starter from Orielly just to see if it takes less shims.

The only thing about a stock starter is that I have a higher comp motor and from what I've read I'll end up burning a stock starter out really quick

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Starter theories can be kicked to the curb now.. She cranks over and disengages from the flywheel.. It was def the battery. Now, I can get back to figuring out if it's my fuel pump or if something is going on in gas tank

[Ol Blue K20]

It's gonna take a while to fill the fuel line. It will fill faster if you fill the carb bowl and it ran even short intervals (I would not use starting fluid ). I have also been replacing all my old school 3510 high torque starters with the newer gear reduction type.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Starter theories can be kicked to the curb now.. She cranks over and disengages from the flywheel.. It was def the battery. Now, I can get back to figuring out if it's my fuel pump or if something is going on in gas tank

I'm a fan of SeventyOnes idea - put the fuel line from a gas can to the mechanical pump with a short hose. Eliminate tank issues at least and isolate it to see if you have engine issues first.

[DeadheadNM]

Prime the pump so to speak with starter fluid and fire it up?

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Prime the pump so to speak with starter fluid and fire it up?

I prefer to use carb cleaner (berrymans) over starting fluid because it doesn't raise the compression ratio. You don't want to pop a head gasket starting it.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Prime the pump so to speak with starter fluid and fire it up?

I prefer to use carb cleaner (berrymans) over starting fluid because it doesn't raise the compression ratio. You don't want to pop a head gasket starting it.

[SeventyOne]

Everyone's rooting for you, Mike!

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I prefer to use carb cleaner (berrymans) over starting fluid because it doesn't raise the compression ratio. You don't want to pop a head gasket starting it.

Dang - I spray mine with starter fluid if sitting for a while to avoid a prolonged cranking.

Mike it's going to work itself out and you'll be the envy of the west coast in short order I'm sure with that driving work of art. I spent the past week in Santa Barbara and thought of you and your build.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Dang - I spray mine with starter fluid if sitting for a while to avoid a prolonged cranking.

Mike it's going to work itself out and you'll be the envy of the west coast in short order I'm sure with that driving work of art. I spent the past week in Santa Barbara and thought of you and your build.

that would scare me....

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks all for the support. I appreciate it the suggestions and everything.

So here's the latest.. Good news - I know what the problem is.. Bad News - In order for me to run mechanical pump I would have to change camshafts..

I removed the fuel pump and pressed the pushrod up against the cam and held it with pressure using my thumb while a buddy cranked the motor over for about 20 seconds.. There was NO pressure.. I called Motor Works, gave them my build number and told them what was happening. The cam that was built for my motor does not have fuel pump eccentric lobe so it will only work with an electric fuel pump..

Problem is.. I ordered this thing 3 years ago and even worst, I went through a middle man (west coast engines). When the order was placed it was originally for e-pump. I called Brady (west Coast Engines) and told him I wanted to run a M-Pump and he said no problem.. He must have not communicated that back to motor works.. I don't have this in writing (email) bc I called him on the phone to let him know I wanted to run a m-pump..

I have two options. 1. Use an electric pump 2. Put in a new CAM.

First one sounds like the easiest and quickest solution. However, bc I have pre-bent SS lines, I will have to remove this and create a custom line myself and place the e-pump somewhere down along the frame rail..

The second option only sounds enticing bc I would opt for a bigger lift and duration.. Might as well right since you're going to swap cams..

Decisions decisions decisions...

I could run an e-pump for now just so I can get this on the road much sooner. and if I really don't like it I could change out the cam some time down the road.. seems like a lot of work though

[SeventyOne]

craaaap. Man i used the same engine builder and middle man as you!

I wonder about my cam and ability to use a mech fuel pump!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Dang - I spray mine with starter fluid if sitting for a while to avoid a prolonged cranking.

Mike it's going to work itself out and you'll be the envy of the west coast in short order I'm sure with that driving work of art. I spent the past week in Santa Barbara and thought of you and your build.

Love Santa Barbara. That's one place I'd have in mind for retirement, but that could change in the next 30 years lol

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

After looking into e-pumps, they all say to mount below and close to tank as possible.. Umm okay, I guess I'll just slap this pump onto the axle since this seems to be the only spot that's below tank

I thought I could just have it sit inside the frame rail, but that only gets me halfway to the bottom of the tank.. other options, I could drop 400-500 on a self priming e-pump, but I'm not really feeling that idea.

[SeventyOne]

If you go electric fuel pump don't you need a fuel return line to the tank?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

If you go electric fuel pump don't you need a fuel return line to the tank?

I was just thinking about that.. Have you been able to confirm? If that is true, doing a cam swap is starting to look more appealing

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Looked into a few discussions on the good ol interweb... seems the consensus leans towards not needed a return fuel line, I think from what i read, if you have a regulator it's keep the fuel cooler which is what the return line in theory is supposed to do.

Regarding my previous note about it being mounted below fuel tank.. I called Summits tech line and the guy helped me find a pump that is self priming (pull/push) so it's ok to mount above tank. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-82091

None of the pumps listed online have no description if its self priming or not.. I think they refer to it as a "lift"

[SeventyOne]

I wonder if you can get creative with the mounting and not have to modify the SS fuel lines you already have in place.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

I wonder if you can get creative with the mounting and not have to modify the SS fuel lines you already have in place.

I think I found a place I can mount it and it would be sort of hidden and out of the way and will only use about 6" or so or rubber hoses and I can still use the main fuel line without any mods.

In-between the main fuel line inside the rail of the frame and fuel tank, there is a spot I could mount it.. This would put it as close to the gas tank as possible.

I'm already preparing for Murphy's law, the fuel pump has to be mounted perfectly vertical and I would bet this pump is going to be too tall to place inside the channel of the frame.

Today, I'm going to pull the gas tank and start piecing together how I'll route everything. I'll probably end up having to fab up a u-shaped bracket that extends out just pass the frame rail so the fuel pump is able to be mounted vertically without any obstruction.

If I didn't want to go through all that work, I could mount it on the outside of the frame, but that's just going to look off and probably could get damaged.

[SeventyOne]

thats basically the spot i had in mind - good luck with it!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Here's the solution I came up with for the e-pump. Picked up a bracket from OSH with a a 90 degree bend and cut it down to 4" in width.

I really didn't have a whole lot of options for the pumps mounting location. I found this area right in front of the bracket coming of the frame for the brake hose.



Drilled 5/16 hole here.I'm only using one bolt (5/16) to hold the bracket in place. It feels like it will hold up fine.



Had some left over braided hoses, so for the fuel coming into the pump from the tank I made up this line. I like the idea of using this style. If I ever need to remove the tank of pump, I can easily access the tube nut with a wrench from either end.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Here's the pump with everything hooked up.



Installed a new power master starter. This thing saves a lot of room and makes for a nice clear path for the battery cable.. With the stock starter and headers the cable gets way to close.


I'm running a manually operated switch, however, whenever I connect the battery the fuel pump is drawing power and starts pumping.


There's the one main positive wire coming off the pump and a ground wire. I'm using butt connector for two power wires.. 1 goes to the battery and the other one goes to the switch. I also have another wire coming off the battery terminal to the switch.

That's how I was told to wire it up so I can manually turn on/off the pump. I'll have to do some more research on this and come back to it.