Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread

[Ackattack]

Well after over a month of waiting, I finally got my bag cups from Suicided doors this week. I popped them in tonight with no problems.

I also got my dash pad and some heater hose bulkhead fittings this week. Hopefully I'll get those in this week. I am waiting on an A/C belt idler pulley. I ordered the tensioner pulley by mistake and had to send it back.

Almost done. There is a show on 4th of July that I'll be going to, but the truck won't be done. However, there is the goodguys show towards the end of July , and I hope to be "done" with it by then. We'll see!

[67cheby]

IF WE CANT SEE IT..... IT DIDNT HAPPEN !!! so is it lower with the bag cups??

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

IF WE CANT SEE IT..... IT DIDNT HAPPEN !!! so is it lower with the bag cups??

No, it will actually be 1/2" higher with the bags dumped. Ride height will be the same though.

[Ackattack]

yesterday was my trucks 3 year anniversary. Almost done

[eagleuh1]

What brake/torque converter lockup switch did you use. I'm at this point now. What kind of mods did you have to do to mount it. Thanks.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by eagleuh1

What brake/torque converter lockup switch did you use. I'm at this point now. What kind of mods did you have to do to mount it. Thanks.

If I remember correctly, it was for an 84 camaro and it threaded in just like the original one did, it just has four terminals on it instead of 2.

[CheyenneShop]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

yesterday was my trucks 3 year anniversary. Almost done

Happy 3rd Anniversary! I just read through most of your build - AWESOME Job

[hotroddin]

great job on the build. i read through all of it and it gave me a lot of tips and inspiration

[Ackattack]

Well progress has been pretty slow lately, cause frankly I'm almost done with it, its driveable, so haven't worked much on it. I took it to 2 car shows, had a bunch of people stare at it, ask a lot of questions, but no awards (of course I'm not completly done with it either, so maybe that's what....plus one of the show's was the GoodGuys show and there were TONS of nice rides there)

Anyway, I was having a high RPM miss. After asking some questions and doing some data logging, I determined that it was the number 3 spark plug wire that the header had partially melted. So I removed the coil packs from the valve covers, relocated them, made custom spark plug wires (you have to use LT1 spark plug boots BTW) and that took care of that problem. I then installed my cool cast aluminum "CHEVROLET" valve covers that my wife got for me last christmas.

Then I got my butt in gear and finally installed my LS6 intake manifold that I've had sitting on the shelf ever since I sold my corvette a year and a half ago. I got a used set of fuel rails and 28lb injectors (stock truck injectors are 24). I already had the corvette front drive accessories, so that wasn't too much of an issue. But, my temperature sensor for my gauge was in the top of the water pump and the throttle body was hitting it, so I removed the temp sensor and plugged the hole. I got an adapter to put the temp sending unit in the pass. side head, but haven't done it yet. I also had to cut the coolant passage off the bottom of the truck throttle body as well as notch it for a bolt that protrudes up from the corvette water pump. No biggies there. I then broke out my laptop, reprogrammed for the larger injectors, and it's running great.

Here's what the engine is looking like now:





Tonight I got the A/C system charged and working. A buddy was helping me. The first thing we had to do was draw a vacuum on the system and checked for leaks. None found, so then we hooked up the heater hoses to the water pump. For a long time I wasn't getting any heat until I checked on stuff. Basically some where along the line the cable that controls the water valve slipped off the controller in the cab, so not hot water was circulating through the heater core (this is an Old Air setup BTW). After we got that figured out, we charged the system. The Old air instructions called for 28-32 ounces of refrigerant. Well I used refrigerant that also included the compressor oil with 11 oz of refrigerant per can. We used 3 cans, but my buddy disconnected the first one before it was completely empty, so I probably have ~30 oz of refrigerant in the system and it seems to be working great.

Then we took the truck for a test drive since my buddy hadn't ridden in it, and we wanted to see how the A/C was working out on the road. The truck ran good, A/C was cool.

While on the test drive I also tried out my line lock that I had wired up a few days ago. Basically it confirmed that my brakes aren't really working all that great. I could push down on the brakes, turn the line lock solenoid on and could still roll forward pretty easily. I could tell the actual solenoid was working, the brakes basically just suck.

The truck stops pretty decently, but not like it really should (I can't even lock up the rear brakes with rear disks). So.....I"m going to go back over the entire system and check for leaks and re-bleed it. I don't really think that is the problem though. The whole braking system is brand new except the brake booster, so I'm probably going to get a new brake booster and see if that fixed my "under powered" brakes.

The truck is still safe to drive, but it should be able to stop quicker than it does now. I'd say it's probably on par with a stock drum/drum truck as far as stopping distance.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Well progress has been pretty slow lately, cause frankly I'm almost done with it, its driveable, so haven't worked much on it. I took it to 2 car shows, had a bunch of people stare at it, ask a lot of questions, but no awards (of course I'm not completly done with it either, so maybe that's what....plus one of the show's was the GoodGuys show and there were TONS of nice rides there)

Anyway, I was having a high RPM miss. After asking some questions and doing some data logging, I determined that it was the number 3 spark plug wire that the header had partially melted. So I removed the coil packs from the valve covers, relocated them, made custom spark plug wires (you have to use LT1 spark plug boots BTW) and that took care of that problem. I then installed my cool cast aluminum "CHEVROLET" valve covers that my wife got for me last christmas.

Then I got my butt in gear and finally installed my LS6 intake manifold that I've had sitting on the shelf ever since I sold my corvette a year and a half ago. I got a used set of fuel rails and 28lb injectors (stock truck injectors are 24). I already had the corvette front drive accessories, so that wasn't too much of an issue. But, my temperature sensor for my gauge was in the top of the water pump and the throttle body was hitting it, so I removed the temp sensor and plugged the hole. I got an adapter to put the temp sending unit in the pass. side head, but haven't done it yet. I also had to cut the coolant passage off the bottom of the truck throttle body as well as notch it for a bolt that protrudes up from the corvette water pump. No biggies there. I then broke out my laptop, reprogrammed for the larger injectors, and it's running great.

Here's what the engine is looking like now:





Tonight I got the A/C system charged and working. A buddy was helping me. The first thing we had to do was draw a vacuum on the system and checked for leaks. None found, so then we hooked up the heater hoses to the water pump. For a long time I wasn't getting any heat until I checked on stuff. Basically some where along the line the cable that controls the water valve slipped off the controller in the cab, so not hot water was circulating through the heater core (this is an Old Air setup BTW). After we got that figured out, we charged the system. The Old air instructions called for 28-32 ounces of refrigerant. Well I used refrigerant that also included the compressor oil with 11 oz of refrigerant per can. We used 3 cans, but my buddy disconnected the first one before it was completely empty, so I probably have ~30 oz of refrigerant in the system and it seems to be working great.

Then we took the truck for a test drive since my buddy hadn't ridden in it, and we wanted to see how the A/C was working out on the road. The truck ran good, A/C was cool.

While on the test drive I also tried out my line lock that I had wired up a few days ago. Basically it confirmed that my brakes aren't really working all that great. I could push down on the brakes, turn the line lock solenoid on and could still roll forward pretty easily. I could tell the actual solenoid was working, the brakes basically just suck.

The truck stops pretty decently, but not like it really should (I can't even lock up the rear brakes with rear disks). So.....I"m going to go back over the entire system and check for leaks and re-bleed it. I don't really think that is the problem though. The whole braking system is brand new except the brake booster, so I'm probably going to get a new brake booster and see if that fixed my "under powered" brakes.

The truck is still safe to drive, but it should be able to stop quicker than it does now. I'd say it's probably on par with a stock drum/drum truck as far as stopping distance.

How did you end up hooking up the AC compressor. Can you take a pic of the Doc's block installed. Did you make your hoses? I am running the same compressor with the same Old Air unit, so you could really save me a whole lot of time.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

How did you end up hooking up the AC compressor. Can you take a pic of the Doc's block installed. Did you make your hoses? I am running the same compressor with the same Old Air unit, so you could really save me a whole lot of time.

I'll get some pictures later...but here's the answer of how I did it.

First, I'm using corvette accessory brackets and an LS1 F-body A/C compressor. So it is a little different than the 5.3 truck A/C setup. Basically I connected the doc's block to the back of the compressor, put on the fittings, cut the A/C hoses to length and routed them. I marked the fittings and hoses, and then removed them and had the fittings crimped onto the hoses. Then re-installed.

I'm pretty sure this is the a/c adapter I used
http://www.docsblocks.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AA0443

[SCOTI]

What's the update on your ongoing brake dilemma? Did the new master cylinder sort it out?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What's the update on your ongoing brake dilemma? Did the new master cylinder sort it out?

The pedal has a better, more natural feel, but its still not able to lock up the brakes, but it still stop pretty darn quick. It also pulls to the one pass. side.

I need to get an alignment, and hopefully that will solve the pulling problem.

For the time being though, I've been very busy trying to get a job, get my house for sale, buy another house, and finish the 69 truck. Plus working overtime, so I haven't done anything on "bruiser". I guess I did manage to wash it and the car cover a few weeks ago It's the rainy season now and I live down a mile long pot hole filled gravel road, so I haven't taken it out for a long time

I'm hoping when I move that I won't be as busy, and won't have to wash it every time I drive it, so I can drive it more.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

I'll get some pictures later...but here's the answer of how I did it.

First, I'm using corvette accessory brackets and an LS1 F-body A/C compressor. So it is a little different than the 5.3 truck A/C setup. Basically I connected the doc's block to the back of the compressor, put on the fittings, cut the A/C hoses to length and routed them. I marked the fittings and hoses, and then removed them and had the fittings crimped onto the hoses. Then re-installed.

I'm pretty sure this is the a/c adapter I used
http://www.docsblocks.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AA0443

Thanks for the info. Even though they are a little different, any help I can get is appreciated. Did you use the Doc's Blocks hose kit as well?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

Thanks for the info. Even though they are a little different, any help I can get is appreciated. Did you use the Doc's Blocks hose kit as well?

No, I got the hoses from Old Air

[menace121978]

looking good man! it takes time working all the bugs out after a total rebuild. once everything is done im sure you'll be bringing home trophies hand over fist awesome to hear you got the a/c working too!

[nuke1]

This is such a sweet truck!!!!

[djw32]

Nice work.

What kind of fuse panel and relay system did you use with your build?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by djw32

Nice work.

What kind of fuse panel and relay system did you use with your build?

check out the first item on this page:

http://www.currentperformance.com/Ac...iring_acc.html

it made it very easy to hook up all the necessary circuits. Another thing, when I turn on my A/C, it is wired to kick on one of the electric fans.

I thought this was a much cleaner solution (due to size) than trying to use the factory fuse block.

[djw32]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

check out the first item on this page:

http://www.currentperformance.com/Ac...iring_acc.html

it made it very easy to hook up all the necessary circuits. Another thing, when I turn on my A/C, it is wired to kick on one of the electric fans.

I thought this was a much cleaner solution (due to size) than trying to use the factory fuse block.

I was looking at that product...You used the current performance stand alone fuse/relay panel and the factory ECU, right?

I heard that the current performance relay and fuse panel is labeled with everything that needs to be hooked up. Did you find it easy to use?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by djw32

I was looking at that product...You used the current performance stand alone fuse/relay panel and the factory ECU, right?

I heard that the current performance relay and fuse panel is labeled with everything that needs to be hooked up. Did you find it easy to use?

yeah, really easy

[mcbassin]

Totally diggin the new clean look of the engine! Glad to hear you got cold! Must be awesome to get to enjoy the fruit of all that 3 years of hard work.

[Ackattack]

so after doing some research about braking systems, I'm pretty sure I need a different master cylinder. The "stock" 72 MC is a 1-1/8" bore, so I think a 1" bore MC will work much better.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

so after doing some research about braking systems, I'm pretty sure I need a different master cylinder. The "stock" 72 MC is a 1-1/8" bore, so I think a 1" bore MC will work much better.

Going to the smaller bore master cylinder will just reduce pedal effort. It will not solve your problem though.

It sounds like you are not pushing enough fluid volume for the brakes you are running. You need a master cylinder with enough fluid volume for the 4-wheel disc brakes. A good one to use with the older boosters is the 67 to 76 C3 Vette piece. 1-1/8" bore for power brakes and 1" bore for manual brakes.

I didn't notice if you had an adjustable proportioning valve. If you don't have one you should definitely get one to get the brakes dialed in once you get proper braking pressure established.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Going to the smaller bore master cylinder will just reduce pedal effort. It will not solve your problem though.

It sounds like you are not pushing enough fluid volume for the brakes you are running. You need a master cylinder with enough fluid volume for the 4-wheel disc brakes. A good one to use with the older boosters is the 67 to 76 C3 Vette piece. 1-1/8" bore for power brakes and 1" bore for manual brakes.

I didn't notice if you had an adjustable proportioning valve. If you don't have one you should definitely get one to get the brakes dialed in once you get proper braking pressure established.

I still have a lot of pedal to travel, so if I needed more volume, i still have more pedal. However, I just can't push it down that far due to lack of pressure.

BTW the 96 camaros (vehicle I got the rear calipers off of) also had a 1" bore MC. The area of the front pistons is very close to what my area is. (LT1 camaros used a single piston caliper in the front)

I may need an adjustable proportioning valve. Right now I have a CPP disc/disc non adjustable proportioning valve.