Post Your Straight Six Pics!

[longbed67]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

No ;

I am not wrong ~ you are .

fuel filters must never be placed before the pump .

Only the cheapo aftermarket pumps ever had this foolish idea .

I'm not questioning you here but before a pissing match starts here and this gets shut down, I would like to know the reasoning behind why a filter must not be placed before the pump? I understand that it will create a small flow restriction but what damage would this cause?

[VWNate1]

Hi Adam ;

I hope you accept my abject apology , being old also means being a grumpy jerk occasionally .

To answer your question :

Fuel pumps are designed to push fuel not pull it so adding the filter before the pump , causes low flow problems long before it actually kills the pump .

If you look at carburated engines , you'll seldom if ever find one with the OEM fuel filter placed before the pump .

I'm only a Mehanic not an Engineer so when my Engineer buddies tried to explain the hows & whys of this to me 50 years ago , I didn't get it so I just accepted it and have not suffered the typical fuel pump issues the folks who run pre pump filters so often do .

I hope this helps...

[50bomb]

So I finally drove my truck to work 2 days in a row. 11 miles one way. Running alil rough. So we put new spark plugs,cables,distributor cap. It has points. When running the inline six 250 we removed #3 spark plug cable and it seems to not react. Could this be a valve problem? All the rest of the react normally.

[longbed67]

taking out a cylinder would cause it to run a little rougher. Did you gap your points when you changed it out? That could be your culprit. If there is nothing wrong there, try making a different wire for it and give it a go again.

[50bomb]

gapped them all at .35

[VWNate1]

Did you ever do a compression test ? .

My bet is , two plug wires are swapped , this is super easy to do .

Even with only 60 # in the affected cylinder , it should clear right out and run smoothly if slowly , once you get it above 2,000 RPM's .

I'd suggest a compression test before anything else .

Lucky for you , the firing order and thusly the sequence of how the plug wires go , is not only dead simple , it's easy to remember and check as well :

The firing order is simple , just think of WOMEN : it is : 1 , 5 , 3 , 6 , 2 , 4

So ;

15 is TOO YOUNG

36 is TOO OLD

24 is JUST RIGHT

To check , hand rotate the engine until the timing line on the crank damper pulley is *exactly* lined up with the TDC mark .

Now , carefully remove the dizzy cap and see where the point of the rotor is facing , it'll be lined up either with the # 1 or # 6 plug wire .

If it's pointing at the # 1 plug wire , remove that wire and replace the dizzy cap when follow the rest of the plug wires around in the firing order : 1,5,3,6,2,4 ~ if one or two are out of order, swap them around until they're all correct , re install the # 1 plug wire and start it up , if it now idles on all 6 cylinders , you're almost done , get out your timing light and set the timing to TDC ~ 7° BTDC and you're done , feel and enjoy the increased [power .

If , OTOH , the point on the Dizzy was facing the # 6 plug wire , don't panic , just rotate the engine one full turn (360°) to TDC again , it'll now be lined up with the # 1 plug wire , go back and check the plug wire order .

I wish I was retired as I'd come sort this out for you ~ it's fairly simple and once you've done it , you'll get it .

I gotta go ! SWMBO says I have to drive her to the Market .

[50bomb]

Compresson test 1: 120, 2: 125, 3: 105, 4: 130, 5: 105, 6: 110

[ole dollor]

that's not the best, but it should run o k with all firing properly , check plugs and wires, and cap...

[50bomb]

We checked everything and it all seems right. Gonna have a mechanic come out tomorrow and figure things out. I can't settle for less than best. haha. I want this lil sixer to run healthy.

[Codez67Chevy]

Here's mine.

[scrappy]

It's not a chevy but it's based off the chevy 250. I added an Offenhauser dual port intake, Holley 390 & a Downey tri-y header than had a new 2 1/4" single exhaust put on out the back. It's quite till the secondary's kick in
My 72 Nova's in the background taking on the role of a tool tray.

[VWNate1]

Is that a Toyota Land Cruiser engine ? .

If so , it's 235 based , nothing whatsoever to do with the thinwall 194/230/250 Chevy engines .

What year & series Jeep is that ? .

[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by 50bomb

Compresson test 1: 120, 2: 125, 3: 105, 4: 130, 5: 105, 6: 110

That's plenty to make it run smooth as silk .

Keep us posted please .

[shok]

There is a Toyota motor based on a Chevy inline 6? What's its designation? I want to read up on this.
Posted via Mobile Device

[pritch]

Originally Posted by shok

There is a Toyota motor based on a Chevy inline 6? What's its designation? I want to read up on this.
Posted via Mobile Device

I used to have one in a Land Cruiser, a 70 or 71, I can't remember exactly. All I know is that chevy tune up parts worked and a water pump, too. Much cheaper than Toyota partsI'm pretty sure everything that didn't require metric threads would interchange.

Here's Wiki's view:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_F_engine

[shok]

Thanks for the link, interesting read. I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I get one of those toyotas as a fixer upper project
Posted via Mobile Device

[50bomb]

When I am not driving the 67 chevy truck I am driving my dad's 89 toyota 4runner. It has a 4 cylinder. Fun lil thing to drive. BUT I STILL LOVE GM STRAIGHT SIXES MUCH MUCH MORE!

[VWNate1]

Toyota bought the rights to the 235 engine in 1963 , I have an old magazine that talks about it ~

At the time , the Auto World was all abuzz about the new GM Corporate thinwall construction L6 engine that was also used in Pontiacs , Buicks and so on , albeit in different displacements than Chevy used .

As mentioned , many parts were interchangable , fuel pumps too but the Toyota guys all insist otherwise .

Thinwall L6 engines are very susceptible to lack of routine hot oil changes , unlike the earlier235's .

They died in droves when only 3 years old . the cylinders would wear severely or get badly tapered and although the engine still ran fine , they smoked terribly and the vehicles were not worth the $300 repair of boring the block so most were scrapped .

[50bomb]

So while I was at work a mechanic that sold my dad a 63 nova back in the 80's came over and checked out my truck. My dad told me the mechanic said that there is nothing wrong with the lil sixer. Just needs some kind of liquid?? put into the gas tank?? Also what gas should I use. I been putting in regular.

[50bomb]

Update I went and filled up my tank and upgraded from regular-87 to special-89. Maybe I should start using High fuel next. Also added the Chevron fuel cleaner. I just want to keep my lil sixer going for a year or so before I have it rebuilt. But before that I want to throw on a Hei distributor.

[VWNate1]

It needs no fuel additives .


Is it still running rough ? .

You can test the plug wires with a test light if you have one .

The HEI from any old 1975 ~ 1987 GM L6 is a direct drop in , you'll need to grab the whole Magilla , dizzy , cap , rotor , wires , power wire with correct end , unwrap the harness and get it all the way back to the firewall .

The power from your keyswitch now , is reduced to run the points so you'll need to provide a 12 V power source to run the HEI , it needs heavier wire too as it draws a fair bit of power .

The Long Beach Veterans Stadium Swap Meet always has HEI dizzies for your engine brand new ~ I trust GM's old stuff moreso than I do new Chinese but the new stuff is often far cheaper than buying all you'll need @ Pick-A-Part .

[Pick]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

It needs no fuel additives .


Is it still running rough ? .

You can test the plug wires with a test light if you have one .

The HEI from any old 1975 ~ 1987 GM L6 is a direct drop in , you'll need to grab the whole Magilla , dizzy , cap , rotor , wires , power wire with correct end , unwrap the harness and get it all the way back to the firewall .

The power from your keyswitch now , is reduced to run the points so you'll need to provide a 12 V power source to run the HEI , it needs heavier wire too as it draws a fair bit of power .

The Long Beach Veterans Stadium Swap Meet always has HEI dizzies for your engine brand new ~ I trust GM's old stuff moreso than I do new Chinese but the new stuff is often far cheaper than buying all you'll need @ Pick-A-Part .

For what it's worth, I'm doing this to mine right now. I wanted to keep driving my '68 for now so I went with "cheap". (I have a SBC on the stand right now and I'm gathering parts for the swap.)

Anyway, I went with a Skip White (yes, I know) straight 6 HEI and ordered the power wire from Year One...it comes pre-made with the Packard 58 connector on one end to go directly into the fuse block and the HEI terminal on the other end. (unfortunately, the power wire hasn't arrived yet so I can't give a review of the whole process.)

If anyone's interested, I can give a complete review once everything is in and done.

[50bomb]

Yes I drove 11 miles to work today then after work went to the "truck shop" bought some stuff. Still running alil rough when I am stopped at the light is feels like the engine shakes more than driving But when I put it on park it idles nicely. SO every light I kept putting it on park I was quite satisfied Gotta have fun and not let the lil things get to ya even if its costin me a leg and an arm Or should I say my lungs from all the ddarn gas smell/carbon getting through the floor boards. NO SMOKE though just fumes.

[longbed67]

Time for an updated photo or four!

[50bomb]

^^^^nice!