72 k20 project

[mosesburb]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

depends on the route i go for guages. i am leaning towards dakota digitals analog set up. i can get inputs for all the infor i need, and i can make it read the dodge signal for the speedo. i would like to have a set of those fancy OEM diesel tach guages, but the only dude i know who had one sold it to someone else...............

So, you want a diesel tach eh??

[jbclassix]

What are you alluding to?

[ryanroo]

he's gonna tell everyone he found one for 13$ and laugh at us all

[Dieselwrencher]

I'll sell you my cluster so I can get dakota digitals.

[ryanroo]

Popped my injectors out tonight to send them off to the boys at Low Budget Diesel for some bigger nozzles. Thanks to Ryan and Nick

[ryanroo]

so, barring any unforseens or a blast of pure genius, this is roughly where the turbos will live. it looks like the secondary will hit the hood in the current position. to cure this, i think i will do what i do best. mercilessly cut stuff apart. if the flange on the industrial manifold(thanks Ryan) were to exit in 45 it would lower the turbo and make it so i could clear the hood with no issue. i do think i may end up running an external gate, since it looks like the actuator has no place to go. more contemplating is certainly in order but at least i can get the primary in there. it does clear the evap housing, and the mount bracket for the big boy looks like it should be relatively simple to make.

[1985-GMC]

Awesome!
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[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

So this will be your out/in? any plans for additional cooling?? While you are looking at Remote oil filters, have you looked at any industrial applications? I know that Cummins Off Road engines use several different mounts that use filters that hold 2L.

Dodge cummins filters are easy to find? no one told any of the parts importers here! I had to go to two different stores just to buy enough oil to do ONE oil change in the Dodge before I went back to CO!

If you wanted a better source for Cummins filters, I'd suggest getting to know your local Kenworth or Peterbilt, they will more than likely stock the BF7349 Baldwin filter.

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Funny you should mention that. after i made my post i was looking at different outlet sizes, and decided that i would probably either have to run the double filter remote head(if they are plumbed in parallel) or figure out something else. so then i did some quick research(fruitless as yet) on application for an 8.3 that used a remote mount filter so i could try to get the filter mount with a larger outlet filter. i stumbled on the amsoil bypass filter set ups and really like those. they are pre order filters, which i dont like per se, but i might do it anyhow and just order a half dozen filters at a time so i have them on hand. still not sure, but that is a hurdle i think i can clear pretty easily.



Yes. the left port in the pic is the clean entering the engine and the right is the dirty going into the filter. i hammered the part together yesterday before a memorial service and didnt get home till later so i didnt have a chance to jump in feet first with my filter research. i was thinking about looking at some backhoes or such to see if any of those had a remote mount kit that i could snatch. no plans for cooling outside of the to and from lines. i am not terribly concerned with oil temp. the engine doesnt make that much heat, and holds a buttload of oil, so it should be fine. if i have the space i may add a single pass cooler inline just for some self assurance though.

OEM is what I run on ours or Baldwin equivelant. We are probably alot harder on ours than most are and with decent oil change intervals we haven't had issues yet. I personally think if it will last a million plus with OEM design then maybe mulitple OEM filters would be better than any bypass ever could. As far as temps are, we just run a factory cooler on the Corvette and oil temp has yet to get as high as coolant temp(fingers crossed).

Originally Posted by jbclassix

On the am soil bypass kit if you went that way would you just eliminate the restrictor oriface? I have one on mine and it is mice other than availability. I do changes at 8k.
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I will admit I did a no no, haven't had time to change oil on the 98, first change of the year was before a trip for New Years. Just changed the oil 1200 miles ago, had 12,000 miles on that oil change, and the oil did not look or feel any different than the normal 3,000 mile oil changes. And since bypasses only a small portion of the oil and never truly filters in a finer filter all of the oil seems to be redundant to me. But this is just my opinion.

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Finally finished the filter mount today. the oddball tap i needed for the threads showed up at long last



little mount bracket is loosely bolted to it. i need a couple shorter bolts

I'll take 2 for my truck

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Popped my injectors out tonight to send them off to the boys at Low Budget Diesel for some bigger nozzles. Thanks to Ryan and Nick

We will see, think Lil Brother may learn on yours...

[mosesburb]

Originally Posted by 6lcummins

We will see, think Lil Brother may learn on yours...

Did he make it home ok??

[6lcummins]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

Did he make it home ok??

Yes sir, few snow storms, a blizzard, and a stop in the middle of BFE, but he made it home a couple minutes before I did last night. Was nice to see the Ford sitting in the driveway.

[ryanroo]

BFE? it wasnt that bad! i offered beer and let him wash his hands!

[ryanroo]

made a few extra.

[6lcummins]

I was going off his words, but he did get a great view of the backroads over the mountains in the snow lol

That's probably the first time I have ever heard of him rejecting free beer btw.

Originally Posted by ryanroo

made a few extra.

T3 for the hx35? or that butterfly for the HX55? BTW if u need a gasket let me know, I know where there are a few...

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by 6lcummins

I was going off his words, but he did get a great view of the backroads over the mountains in the snow lol

That's probably the first time I have ever heard of him rejecting free beer btw.



T3 for the hx35? or that butterfly for the HX55? BTW if u need a gasket let me know, I know where there are a few...

Oh we are in almost BFE, but real BFE is the rez that he drove through for 6 hours before he got here. skinwalkers everywhere....

those are all T3. i have a plan for the Hx55. hopefully i can make it work. and ill need a gasket or two eventually.

[6lcummins]

He did say the res was definitely BFE. I'll have to grab you a couple gaskets then.

[ryanroo]

'preciate it

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work Ryan. Sorry bout that rusty manifold. I know you hate that color.

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work Ryan. Sorry bout that rusty manifold. I know you hate that color.

Isn't that known as Iowa Varnish?

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice work Ryan. Sorry bout that rusty manifold. I know you hate that color.

yeah, it is a little depressing, but hey, i got to cut it into pieces and that always makes me happy!

[ryanroo]

had to give the new/old manifold i got from Ryan the ol' ryanroo special. seems i have an issue with stock items and need deep in my being to mutilate them. so i hacked the stock outlet off and welded on my own.



for those interested, i used Lincold electric 55Ni rod. preheat to probably 200-250 degrees (the entire manifold and the flange- pretack) tacked it on and welded. pause for a short peening session after each weld. then i wrapped the whole thing in a blanket and left it be over night. i have faith it will work fine, but the first true test will be the initial heat cycle on the engine with the weight of the turbo(s) on it. the fact that my test and the manifold did not crack right away are good. and ive always had luck with the 55ni rod.

yes, i know its ugly. cast makes the puddle a little squirmy, and its not something i do every day

on the head



turbo position



the primary will be up little from here. it is just sitting on the frame right now.

[jbclassix]

Couple things, don't you need force and rapid temp change to crack cast? I think your welds will be fine. You went all the way around, it's not like you were repairing a crack that could branch off. Did you just do a single pass?

[ryanroo]

single pass mostly. I did a few on the sides where it was a pain to reach. mostly just to make sure I sealed it. cast by itself generally needs a temperature shock or impact to crack. when you weld mild to cast you have two dissimilar metals with different expansion/contraction rates. the mild likes to expand and contract more than the cast and at different rates. that is where the issue with cracking out occurs. that is also why I am not to worried after the initial cool off, but I will be totally convinced after the engine heat cycles a few times
it also is an issue with repairing cracks in cast because the filler has different characteristics than the parent.
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[Dieselwrencher]

It'll be fine. I've made several pieces in the last 5 years that are a mixture of cast and mild welded together with a mig welder. I pre heat the cast red hot, and then burn it in. I haven't had one of the parts crack or break yet. The exhaust manifold I did has been over 2000* several times with no issues.

[6lcummins]

The manifold on my 96 has atleast 8-10 hooks of a constant 1750* for over 300 feet with a real sled behind it. No leaks yet....

[Mattman2010]

Looking good Ryan! That will be a sweet setup.
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