Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[First c10]

Hey mike
Sorry been coaching 2 football teams and my older son moved to Montana for college.
So I have not had any free time.

The calipers are 80-85 caddy rears. I don't recall the part numbers. I bought them off eBay actually. The best price I could find.
7dee2 has the link he just posted about the custom cables I had made. I am sure it is back in My build also. Hope this helps. I will be back on the truck this winter.
I ordered new body mounts and will coating under the cab and then get the cab on the frame.

[7dee2]

Life gets pretty busy sometimes, looking forward to more when you’re ready Scott.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey mike
Sorry been coaching 2 football teams and my older son moved to Montana for college.
So I have not had any free time.

The calipers are 80-85 caddy rears. I don't recall the part numbers. I bought them off eBay actually. The best price I could find.
7dee2 has the link he just posted about the custom cables I had made. I am sure it is back in My build also. Hope this helps. I will be back on the truck this winter.
I ordered new body mounts and will coating under the cab and then get the cab on the frame.

Yea his post is what prompted my question, Just my constant quest for information to be tucked away in case i need it later. Currently i'm running 72 front calipers out back with no E brake, i figure some day i ether try the Caddys or add a driveshaft caliper and rotor behind the 205.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Yea his post is what prompted my question, Just my constant quest for information to be tucked away in case i need it later. Currently i'm running 72 front calipers out back with no E brake, i figure some day i ether try the Caddys or add a driveshaft caliper and rotor behind the 205.

Mike,
I used Captain Fabs 6 lug bracket with the 88-90 GM 1500 Front rotors and the caddy's calipers. I did have to turn down the center hub on my axles to fit the rotors.

Scott

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by First c10

Mike,
I used Captain Fabs 6 lug bracket with the 88-90 GM 1500 Front rotors and the caddy's calipers. I did have to turn down the center hub on my axles to fit the rotors.

Scott

OK, mines a K20 so probably have to use a different bracket and rotors. Thanks!

[First c10]

OH yeah forgot. 3/4 ton stuff is almost Greek to me.

[First c10]

Hey Guys , I started working on the body mounts and ordered new front body mounts for the 68 front radiator support. The problem is the frame is a 70. So the hole in the frame mounts are large for the 69-72 style bushings, too large for the 67-68.

Do I have to cut down the 69-72 bushing to the same thickness as the 67-68 thickness ?

[swamp rat]

I'd call the vendor and see if the bushing kit is suppose to be different and is it just the hole diameter, i assumed they were the same....

[Deer_hunter_088]

nice truck, your son is a lucky kid,

[First c10]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I'd call the vendor and see if the bushing kit is suppose to be different and is it just the hole diameter, i assumed they were the same....

I know they are different as far as the radiator support and the hole size in the body mount. My question is since the frame is a 70 can I use a 70 bushing set and not worry about the 68 radiator support being too high? i will also check with the vender


Thanks Deer_Hunter_088
and you are correct!!!

[First c10]

This is a picture of the driverside radiator support mount. The hole size is larger than the 67-68 frame so the 67-68 bolts and washers don't fit. Does anyone know if the 69-72 mount is located at a different height than on a 67-68 frame? or is the radiator support stamped differently at the bottom of the radiator support?

[7dee2]

I can tell you the poly replacements we used spaced the core support a little higher than the original 2wd version we removed (all 72 rubber stuff). This set our shroud a tade higher but still cleared our fan. Ended up shimming the front cab mounts to make everything come back in line. Worked out OK because we needed this to help clear the transfer case anyway. I'd leave it high till you can mockup everything up on your frame, cuz you can always shave um later. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=365 BTW we might have to add even more cab mount shims to allow for TC flex before it's all done?

[First c10]

Hey Brett
Thanks for the info... I seen that post from you and agree about the TC room. I am using a 68 frontend on a 70 k20 frame and was wondering if I can use 69-72 bushings. On hulk JR it has a 68 frame and front end I used 69-72 bushing kit and had to raise the cab 1/2" in the front and 1/4" at the rear of the cab to get it right.

[First c10]

I had a chance to meet with my paint and body guy last night to discuss getting the cab to his shop to start the body work and get the underfloor and firewall sprayed so I could get it on the frame. He told me that he should only have it for about a month as he didn't want it in the shop longer than that. I told him as long as it was right. Keep you posted!
I am thinking about Big Blue Pearl code 930849 (its what I have on my 2014 Harley Street Glide)

[swamp rat]

You wouldn't be the first guy with matching toy's in the garage!

[First c10]

We now have an A/C Cab.

I was able to spend some time cutting in and test fitting the a/c ducts. I am not happy with the center ductwork fitment. The chrome grill fits it's the black abs plastic duct that fits behind the dash. I may get out the heat gun and reshape it.

[7dee2]

Nice color choice and glad to see you working on this one again!

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Nice color choice and glad to see you working on this one again!

I agree!!!


I am waiting on the estimate to get the cab body work done......Hope its not to bad and doesn't need any metal work other than possible the cab to door area. I will hang the doors and post a picture.

[First c10]

Driver door gap looks pretty good.... even the window frame looks good. still needs a little adjusting but I think it is pretty good.

[First c10]

Now the Passenger side not so good as far as the window frame.
Any ideas???

I cant really move the door back any as i think it maybe to close to the back part of the cab.

The window frame is very close to the drip rail of the cab.

AGAIN ANY IDEAS???

Bend the door window frame in????

[mjensen]

I don't know how the pros do it, but I had to adjust my window frames by placing a 2x4 in and closing the door on it. Bent the tops out like a champ, but mine were closer to the jamb than the opposite way. They actually move easier than I anticipated.

[First c10]

Thanks for the info. I thought about placing a 2x4 across the the door on the inside and placing another in from the outside of the window and push the top frame towards the cab.
Trying not to bend the inner door.

[swamp rat]

Mine are both closer (in more) at the top, but the door shells aligned with the cab and front fenders fine, been kinda afrade to try an "adjustment" so I await your results. I know not much help, sorry.

[First c10]

Hey Mike. I talked to my body guy and he said don't do anything until the cab is on the actual frame with new bushings and tightened down. Right know it is on the rotisserie.

He said he will need the cab in about 2 weeks be it will be ready to put on the frame in 30 days as he doesn't want it sitting around. Works for me.

[First c10]

Anybody know where I can get the stamped nuts that fit the brake light switch? I need 2.