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#5476 |
Post Whore
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Upper Control Arm
and so the grinding continued until finally we were able to use a punch and a 3 pound sledge to get the upper ball joint off
not pretty but it got the job done, the new replacement ball joints are bolt in Fun Level = 2 Last edited by Gregski; 06-12-2018 at 03:23 PM. |
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#5477 |
Post Whore
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Lower Control Arm
the lower control arm we pounded out the bushings after kinking them in a bit like so, at least on one side, maybe we used the press for the other side
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#5478 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Lower Control Arm
this is the lower control arm with the new ball joint pressed in, the ball joints are not rivitted to the lower control arms they just snap out and in using the shop press and some pipe or square tubing in our case as a jig
DISCLAIMER: note how the game changes when you go from a restore project truck to your daily driver, I did not paint these old control arms Roadkill style and just replaced the warn out parts and bolted them back up, shame on me |
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#5479 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
a little stare and compare of my old stock coil spring which I cut one loop off of to lower the truck 2" and the new Western Chassis 2" propper drop coil springs, I really like these springs they fit good and the ride is great, you buy them through Performance Online and they are cheaper than directly from Western Chassis for some strange reason
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#5480 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
You know you got a Chevy when you buy your parts by the bucket, ha ha
these are new upper control arm shaft (assemblies) I just needed the metal shafts but NAPA only sold them as sets or kits which included the bushings, oh great, now I have three sets of bushings per side, lol my passenger side shaft was mangled so I decided to replace both of them for evenability |
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#5481 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
here's a cautionary note and a heads up, remember those alignment spacers we talked about earlier for the upper control arm, well be careful when you are putting them back in as they like to rotate upside down and slip out from underneath, slippery little suckers
below I caught them in the act |
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#5482 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#5483 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
after it was all back together, I decided to grease the ball joints since they came with zirc fittings and I didn't wanna assume they was pre greased proper and such
so I busted out my trusty ol' grease gun my daddy bought over 30 years ago, and first thing I had to do was replace that worthless metal feeder tube with a bendy one so I could even reach and get to where it needed getting to then I watched a few YouTube videos on how to burp a new tube of grease after you just load the gun, ha ha, oh boy once you know how to do it, look out the grease comes out sooo good so you grease these up until you see the rubber boot expand and a little of grease start to ooze out |
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#5484 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#5485 |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Wasilla, Alaska
Posts: 168
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Great job! I remember reading through all of this a long time ago and its looking great!
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1971 GMC Sierra Grande 2500 2wd "Sadiee" Caddy 472/TH400 Project "Sadiee" 1969 Chevy C/10 Build "Maisie" Thread coming soon |
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#5486 | |
Moderator
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Location: Wentworth, NH
Posts: 4,951
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
They're all brand new quality parts so you're not cheating anyone.
__________________
1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. |
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#5487 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Montclair, CA
Posts: 149
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Just spent the last couple of weeks reading this thread. Keep up the good work, Greg....Rusty's coming along nicely. Going to pass along your experience with the Vortec heads to a friend of mine who wants to put together another small block for his '70 GMC 3/4-ton 4x4 and really wanted to use those heads.
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#5488 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#5489 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
If I was to run Vortec heads again I would only go with brand new ones to ensure they are not cracked. I would also buy them from aftermarket companies (like Scoggin-Dickey) that modify them for taller lift and install slightly larger valves in them. I don't think they port or polish them as they supposedly are good in that department already. And if your friend really wants to get the most out of them then he should swap to a roller block and run a hydraulic roller cam. hope that helps, G |
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#5490 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Nap Town, Indianapolis
Posts: 233
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Re: Restoring Rusty
seeing as you were the inspiration for my dash project...I thought I'd share how mine came out...I dig but not sure it was worth all the work...
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#5491 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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#5492 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Nap Town, Indianapolis
Posts: 233
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Re: Restoring Rusty
71 to be exact...
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Just a Hillbilly in the Hood http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=622194 |
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#5493 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
dang, those would look nice welded up, and I don't mean with that JB Weld stuff I tried, but properly with a MIG spark machine, I noticed in your thread you have an air compressor so I hope you own a welder as well if not I highly recommend the Lincold 140C (C is for Commercial grade or something like that) this is not the junk you buy in the big box stores like Lowe's or Home Depot but from specialty welding shops like Tractor Supply or Granger, but soooo worth it, the guts are metal not plastic and the box weighs a ton.
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#5494 |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Nap Town, Indianapolis
Posts: 233
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Ive got a Hobart Champion that I am good at making a mess of things with...I have a small crush on anything Lincoln...
I considered welding up the holes (and still might) but wanted to play with the industrial and wood look in a truck - I build custom furniture out of reclaimed industrial metal and reclaimed barn wood... It's hard to see, but I went High Class and used only the finest gutter guard material from Mé Nards to "grill" the holes... Still need to cut slits in the dash wood...but since the AC is broked there is no hurry...
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#5495 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Oh my god your posts are hillarious, I am so glad I was not sippin on my coffee when I read that line or it would have been all over my keyboard
yes nothing but the finest scrap for our rigs! |
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#5496 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
where do I begin this next endeavour update? I guess by saying, nothing ever good happens when I go on Craigslist "just to look"
so $180 bucks later Rusty and I got to see a bit of the hill country and were haulin' back this beauty Can you guess what it is? |
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#5497 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Why yes it is a Saginaw 4 speed transmission. How do we know well the reverse shifter lives in the side cover, where as on a Muncie it's in the tailshaft. Cool good to know.
By the way it's called a Saginaw because it was made/built in Saginaw Michigan. And by the way Saginaw is native Indian for "Not As Good As Muncie" ha ha So first tip on buying one of them 60's four speed gear boxes: Buy as much as you can, in other words try to buy the shifter usually a Hurst and the fingers, ie the rods/sticks with the transmission. Highly advised. |
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#5498 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Continuing on, where as the all aluminum Muncie 4 speed comes in three flavors:
The all iron Saginaw 4 speed comes in two(ish):
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#5499 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
The Saginaw gets a bad rap for not being as strong as a Muncie and it's rated up to 300 horse power. So why did The Greg get one?
Well, my beloved A833 needs a rebuild and this will allow me to do a temporary transmissino swap to keep my daily on the road, really simple as that. This will also allow me to try a true 1960's four speed transmission be it weaker than a Muncie. You gotta understand that a Turbo 350 is rated at 350 horse power so only 50 more than the Saginaw and the TH350 was GMs go to transmission for everything. I also twisted my logic seven different ways to justify this impulse buy. If the Muncie is all aluminum and is considered strong than aint iron stronger. Why do the Mopar guys swap from aluminum A833 cases to the iron cases when they build drag transmissions? And so what that 300 horse is it's peak, my truck in OEM form pulled 190(ish) horse on the dyno, and with my bolt on upgrades pulled only 255 horse, so I am well below that. Also with a more stout cam the power band rises from a factory idle - 5500 to something like 2500-5500 RPM so this transmission should put me in the power band with higher revs. And finally, the Saginaw transmission was a cheaper alternative for GM but surved loyal duty in the Chevelles, Novas, Camaros, Fire Birds, Impalas, Corvettes, El Caminos, Tempests, Vegas, and did I mention Monzas, ha ha so it will do, and I treat Rusty as a car not a truck so I don't go towing motor homes or the Space Shuttles Last edited by Gregski; 06-23-2018 at 10:03 AM. |
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#5500 |
Post Whore
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Re: Restoring Rusty
so the gentleman who sold me this unit said it came out of a first gen Fire bird, but that it was NOT native to the car, he was very clear about that
well I was so excited at the time that it went in one ear and out the other, I'm sure some of you can relate to that, it's part of the impulse buy protocol, blinders on, and we hear what we wanna hear so the first mistake I made or the first lesson I learned was that out of all them cars you can get the Saginaw out of, the Vega/Monza configuration is the worst one you can get which is exactly what we have here, a Vega transmission / shifter setup Huh? What? Why? When the General installed the Saginaw in the Vega or Monza he decided to mount the shifter to the floor of the car!!! No! Instead of the transmission itself as God intended. So the number one reason for me getting this trans (that being cause it came with the shifter and linkage) just went out the window, and I found myself on eBay looking for a different shifter and rods. The Vega shifter also was not a Hurst but some generic GM piece of junk and it was all warn out, I tried to rebuild it but gave up... Last edited by Gregski; 06-23-2018 at 09:38 AM. |
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