What did you do to your truck today? Chapter II

[AussieinNC]

Hey firedemon...

Suggestion: grab yourself a metal inline filter and install it after the pump...as close as you can to the carb...and

Install a thermal spacer between the carb base and the manifold...

Holleys are renowned for cloggy needles and seats...some have filters within the fuel line barb fitting on the carb itself...these often break down over time as no-one ever cleans or replaces em...

have fun

[In The Ten Ring]

I bummed an 18 gauge needle and bought a bottle of blue nail polish. I want to fill up my "Custom/10" emblems with blue rather like the front bowtie emblem color.

[BugzC10]

Originally Posted by firedemon

got to experience the joys of carburation today with a little vapor lock . made it to the bank cashed the check come back out started up a little hard but started . made it to the end of the driveway sputterd right out . checked the choke it was open all the way nothing squirting at all . no tools with me so I sit and wait for it to cool off with the hood open every nitwit with a car smaller than my hood gets behind and starts honking like I'm just sitting there with the hood wide open watching traffic roll on by while I sweat like a pig for fun . I get the idea to check the tank and make sure the gauge is working opens to the pssssssst sound . well its working I got half a tank . thinking its the cap I turn it over to no start . grey beard stops with a can of either fires right up keep it running long enough to get fuel to the carb great . get the cleaner back on shut the hood 1/2 mile down the road and two red lights again sputter and done. same dam thing only this time I left the cap loose nothing squirting wth . I get towed this time down to my brothers shop thinking its gotta be a filter I pull the line off the carb sprayed right in the eye serious fuel pressure . stinking holley carb . pulled the needle and seat put fuel line back on crank her over and we get a flood . getting fuel so blow out and carb cleaner the needle and seat put it back in a little adjustment running good . I pulled the line from the carb and fill a gaterade bottle nothing clean as a whistle the filters are brand new not even 3000 miles yet one under cab one infront of carb . I don't know must have been something in the seat it ran home fine

I feel ya brother...arn't these trucks a blast?

[VWNate1]

I'll never understand why anyone would use metal fuel filters ~ clear plastic ones DO NOT leak/catch fire unless you leave them on for years instead of periodically changing like you're supposed to do .

A clear filter will always give you plenty of warning before it stops fuel flow and it also instantly tell you if there's any fuel flow to the carby .

I've used and enjoyed 'Grose Jet' carby inlet valves for decades and never yet had one problem ~ they use two little self cleaning steel balls to measure the fuel flow accurately .\

[NoStopN]

I went to breakfast & then had to suck up some go-go juice.



And then, it decided it didn't want to leave the gas station. I could smell a little gas smell (around gas pumps, who'da thunk it?). Popped the hood, off with the air cleaner, & I opened up the carb throttle plate & could see gas vapors around it. After about 5 minutes of opening the plate, I buttoned it back up & tried to fire it again. After a half dozen cranks, it came alive. It got home with no further issues.

[rustytruck50]

A much needed rear shock replacement....'ol blue was perfecting the Texas Two-Step on anything but smooth pavement...to quote Barney Fife, "I nipped it in the bud!"

[VWNate1]

Can't blame the filter because you failed to keep an eye on it so it yellowed, aged out and failed .

[VWNate1]

Yep ;

1967 Triumph t100C, it did shake quite a bit .

Never lost a clear plastic filter yet and I drive / ride a lot .

MY BELOVED C/10 has one too .

[hussler]

I took on the challenge today and installed a after market tach, in my stock non-tach dash, and i love the way it turned out, if anyone wants the part number for the Bosch Tach let me know...the dam thing looks good in our trucks..

[HO455]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

I'll never understand why anyone would use metal fuel filters ~ clear plastic ones DO NOT leak/catch fire unless you leave them on for years instead of periodically changing like you're supposed to do .\

The NHRA won't pass you through the Tech Inspection with one. Ever see one on a new car? Can you tell me what the micro rating of your clear filter is? These reasons are why I do not use clear filters.

[berch 69GMC]

Originally Posted by hussler

I took on the challenge today and installed a after market tach, and i love the way it turned out, if anyone wants the part number for the Bosch Tach let me know...the dam thing looks good in our trucks..

Looks great. Did you modify a non tach dash or remove old tach?

[VWNate1]

Obfuscation or lack of understanding how fuel systems work :

No modern Automobile has a 3 ~ 4 PSI fuel system so obviously you cannot use a clear plastic filter .

If properly mounted, the rubber hose at each end would have isolated any vibration, even if it was a thumper .

Sorry you lost a BSA but "It's a poor Mechanic who blames his tools " .

That Tachometer looks good ! .

[CraigT]

Cheap and easy fun on a Sunday morning.

[VWNate1]

No one said lazy idiot ~ you must be feeling guilty there .

There are none so blind as those who refuse to see .

I get so much good help here, sorry you don't .

[HO455]

In

Originally Posted by VWNate1

Obfuscation or lack of understanding how fuel systems work :

No modern Automobile has a 3 ~ 4 PSI fuel system so obviously you cannot use a clear plastic filter .

If properly mounted, the rubber hose at each end would have isolated any vibration, even if it was a thumper .

Sorry you lost a BSA but "It's a poor Mechanic who blames his tools " .

That Tachometer looks good ! .

I am not trying to make things difficult to understand. I have never seen a car come from the factory with a clear plastic filter regardless of pressure. (Now I will admit I have never worked on a Zil or a Lada so it is possible that it has happened but still i haven't seen those cars). Regardless, I believe they are a substandard part that I will not install on any vehicle I own.
My logic is based on the fact that you have no way of verifying how much regrind was used in the plastic when the filter was injected into the mold. Regrind is the term used in plastic injection molding that refers to plastic material that has been heated to the melting point and not used. This could be from the sprue in the mold or just overflow from worn mold. This plastic waste is collected and ground up and added to virgin plastic in order to save money Every plastic material specification has a limit on how much regrind is allowed to be mixed in. Exceeding the regrind amount degrades the ability to meet its engineered specifications. If your making Happy Meal toys your more worried about color and inclusions. If your making pressure vessels there are obviously other concerns. My point is that there are no checks and balances other than you suing the company if the filter splits due to bad plastic. If General Motors is unwilling to go down that road that's good enough for me.

[VWNate1]

Fair enough and you have explained this in better terms than the guy @ Firestone tires explained it to me, they do the very same thing for the very same reason ~ co$t reduction and damn the quality .

Nevertheless, millions upon millions of these filters have been and continue to be used world wide daily .

A good mechanic or DIY'er should be able to learn from experience, not go off in a huff like a 5 year old child .

I'm old and retired yet I still enjoy learning daily .

-Nate

Originally Posted by HO455

In

I am not trying to make things difficult to understand. I have never seen a car come from the factory with a clear plastic filter regardless of pressure. (Now I will admit I have never worked on a Zil or a Lada so it is possible that it has happened but still i haven't seen those cars). Regardless, I believe they are a substandard part that I will not install on any vehicle I own.
My logic is based on the fact that you have no way of verifying how much regrind was used in the plastic when the filter was injected into the mold. Regrind is the term used in plastic injection molding that refers to plastic material that has been heated to the melting point and not used. This could be from the sprue in the mold or just overflow from worn mold. This plastic waste is collected and ground up and added to virgin plastic in order to save money Every plastic material specification has a limit on how much regrind is allowed to be mixed in. Exceeding the regrind amount degrades the ability to meet its engineered specifications. If your making Happy Meal toys your more worried about color and inclusions. If your making pressure vessels there are obviously other concerns. My point is that there are no checks and balances other than you suing the company if the filter splits due to bad plastic. If General Motors is unwilling to go down that road that's good enough for me.

[67swb72klb]

Wix sells plastic fuel filters so they can't be all that bad...

[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

Wix sells plastic fuel filters so they can't be all that bad...

My point exactly .

NAPA uses Wix filters, reboxed .

[hussler]

Originally Posted by berch 69GMC

Looks great. Did you modify a non tach dash or remove old tach?

Oh Yeah...I took my non factory tach dash and did some Modifying.

[70 shorty]

Took my wheels off and freshened up the rally wheel silver paint on them and polished the center caps and trim rings.

[68bowtie]

added speed warning to my choke delete cluster. next will be a tach setup.

[drewbert41]

https://youtu.be/EqE7fwPNPWk

With some help I adjusted the timing a little and things are moving again now. Sorry for audio quality, open headers atm.

[Steeveedee]

It's been sitting while I recuperate from carpal tunnel surgery. My middle son is my left hand man (my surgery was on my left hand); when he has time from his construction job. He loaded the MT oxygen tank into the back of my truck. I'll wash the old girl for the first time in a month and go get a fresh cylinder tomorrow, so I can finish making a handrail for the steps leading up to my house. The length and limited rise do not require a handrail, by code. But my MIL tripped going up them awhile back (I personally think her idjit Spaniel tripped her). Be that as it may be, I'm going to make a hand rail. It's about 3/4 complete. If there is a possible problem, it has surfaced. The latest was when I pulled my OxyAcetylene rig out, and the oxygen tank had bingo gas left. I made some tack welds and that was it. I'll wash the truck tomorrow morning and go get a refill for the oxygen. I can't complain. The last thing I did with my torch was cutting metal, which is an oxygen-hungry job. If I had realized that it was that low, I'd've gotten another tank sooner.

[JMD]

Installed tailgate trim. Drilling holes in a brand new tailgate is not my idea of fun. I also rolled over 500 miles today, so far so good!

[mike16]

I just installed a Pair of left and right side rear view mirrors on my 72 C-10 I was soooo frustrated I had to walk away. after a while, I just stopped working on them about every 30 minutes and took a break whether I needed it or not OMG! the passenger side took about 3 hours to do, the drivers side only about an hour.

Now I know why the big west coast mirrors and californication mirrors are installed from the dealer. real easy to drill out a small hole then chase it with self tapping sheet metal screws

my recommendation if you go with the factory standard mirrors on your 72 is to get a second set of hands to hold the inner reinforcing plate while you start the self tapping screws. Smaller hands are better because they can reach into a tighter place to hold that reinforcing plate from the few small access holes on the inside of the doors and when that plate is dropped inside the door, 10-15 times, a small hand and arm can reach deeper into the door to retrieve the plate and those very valuable factory sheet metal screws. and happy meals are cheap. You will know what I'm taking about when you get there. don't leave a broom handle or coat hangar inside the door as you will have to remove the door panel to retrieve it (them)when you begin the other door. Small hands will eliminate the need to use a coat hangar or broom handle to begin with.

The screws that come with the new repro mirrors are junk, some sort of stainless drywall screws. WTF? for 40 bucks each you think they would do the right thing with the correct screws, the rest of the mirror is pretty good, why go cheap on 40 cents worth of screws.

So.... keep your old fasteners as they are better, used, then the others are new. If you dont have an old set of screws, wait until you find a set of 8, 6 plus two spares. I'm betting on Corvette vendors for a set of the good quality correct screws. wait to get them rather than go through heck twice. The old used screws are a ferritic stainless steel so they too can be retrieved with a magnet.

You will also need that funny tool to remove the inside door handles, and it might be a good idea to get a few, 4 , extra door handle clips as those clips seem to fly off in every direction when you remove them.

It looks nice when done, I got my mirrors from Chevy Duty or what ever its called now. I like them a little more every day I walk past them but Damn it there was no love for about a whole day after the job was done. get some extra little hands to help out, Think happy meal.

the mirrors are very tightly mounted to the bracket.....for a good reason and should not be casually adjusted to accomodate various drivers. Mount them, adjust them and warn others NOT to adjust them further, as they may become loose and flop around. Also they are tight for a reason and should not be lubed to facilitate initial adjustment or they will eventually become loose again and flop around.

I dont think you will want to go through the routine(?) of doing these mirrors twice or more so take my advice