1968 Chevrolet SWB Stepside Restomod

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by Xeen

1/4" is quite a bit, I expect it to come back exactly how I ordered it, maybe I could have tollerated 1/8" but 1/4" is just too much.
Granted I only have about 315 horse but the input shaft is under quite a bit of stress even when it's done correctly.

Originally Posted by gdavis

so it looks like yu have a lot of yoke showing where the seal rides is there enough.

Guys I'm no expect at this, but based on your pic it looks like you have about 1" from trans to end of the shaft showing. A stock GM yoke has 3-3/4" length on the shaft, if you take away 1" from that, you would still have 2-3/4" inside the trans. That's why I said it should not cause a problem, if your yoke is shorter than 3-3/4" then I would be concerned, just my 2 cents, didn't mean any disrespect. I'm also like you and want things like I ordered and can understand your concern...Jim

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Guys I'm no expect at this, but based on your pic it looks like you have about 1" from trans to end of the shaft showing. A stock GM yoke has 3-3/4" length on the shaft, if you take away 1" from that, you would still have 2-3/4" inside the trans. That's why I said it should not cause a problem, if your yoke is shorter than 3-3/4" then I would be concerned, just my 2 cents, didn't mean any disrespect. I'm also like you and want things like I ordered and can understand your concern...Jim

No worries, I know you didn't mean anything by it, I was just using your post to vent a little bit about how poor of a job they did

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by SeTx67

Here's a link for the ls1 fan connectors. There's quite a few others there also but they are on page 1

http://tpiparts.net/harness_repair_connectors1?b=1

Thanks I will check that out.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

so it looks like yu have a lot of yoke showing where the seal rides is there enough.

There is 1 1/8" of open yoke so yeah the driveshaft is 1/4" too short, I think I can skate by but only just barely.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

There is 1 1/8" of open yoke so yeah the driveshaft is 1/4" too short, I think I can skate by but only just barely.

Actually, it isn't the amount that's exposed that matters. Driveshaft suppliers suggest that you should shove the yoke in until it bottoms out completely and mark where the seal is positioned on it. Then pull the yoke out an amount that is just sufficient to prevent bottoming thru the full suspension travel. This could be as little as 3/8" to 1/2" for a vehicle with very little travel and/or pinion climb, to upwards of 7/8" to 1"+ for something like an off-road truck with a lot of travel. On my last truck, I set it at 3/4"+ when I had the driveshaft made. When I installed it, I marked the yoke with a grease pencil where it was bottomed out and again where it sat when bolted into the pinion yoke. I then drew a line front to back between the deep and shallow marks I made. Over time, as the front yoke moved in and out, it rubbed off part of the line and I could see how much it actually travelled. On my setup, 1/2" was the max. So I could have made the driveshaft a bit longer, but if you have to err, it's better to have the d/s slightly too short than too long. Bottoming out the yoke against the tailshaft can be catastrophic.

[El Campo]

I believe it is Moser Engineering (could be wrong as it was years ago that I read it) that suggested pushing yoke in all the way and pulling out 1 whole inch and making shaft that long. I know from personal experience that it held up to 600+ horsepower if that counts haha.

[gdavis]

good luck there man I know you will figure it out.

[Xeen]

Hey all;
I ordered a pair of used LS1 electric fan weatherpack connectors off of ebay for $15 shipped which isn't a bad deal considering the shipping was $3 I paid $6 per connector.

[Low Elco]

3/4" is always the number I've heard.

[gdavis]

sounds like you got a good enough price there. Shipping is always the deal breaker. But in your case the price was cheap.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

sounds like you got a good enough price there. Shipping is always the deal breaker. But in your case the price was cheap.

Yep USPS rocks for shipping small items.
I will have everything I need to wire up my fans once the connectors get here this week.

[Xeen]

Hey all;
I'm getting ready to make my own tripple relay fan control wiring harness for dual fans with dual speed control Via the PCM.
The experience I have with automotive wiring is installing car audio so while it's not completely foreign to me it's not my typical type of job but it should be easy enough.
I will post pictures when it's done.

[SeTx67]

Brian, maybe you could use one of these and save yourself some headache on building your own harness

http://www.ls1fans.com/site/788bd71f..._Truck_SUV.php
Posted via Mobile Device

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by SeTx67

Brian, maybe you could use one of these and save yourself some headache on building your own harness

http://www.ls1fans.com/site/788bd71f..._Truck_SUV.php[/size]

For some reason the link didn't work when I tried it.
If that's a link for a ready made harness there is really no need for me to purchase one, I'm fully capable of building it.

[SeTx67]

Originally Posted by Xeen

For some reason the link didn't work when I tried it.
If that's a link for a ready made harness there is really no need for me to purchase one, I'm fully capable of building it.

Maybe the link doesn't work because I got it with my phone

What' it going to cost to build your own?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by SeTx67

Maybe the link doesn't work because I got it with my phone.
What's it going to cost to build your own?

Less than $10 because I already have a fan harness out of a 2005 silverado that was given to me and I can scavenge the relays, circuit breakers and some of the wiring/loom I need from it.

[SeTx67]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Less than $10 because I already have a fan harness out of a 2005 silverado that was given to me and I can scavenge the relays, circuit breakers and some of the wiring/loom I need from it.

I had forgot you already had a harness. Your idea is definitely a more cost effective one
Posted via Mobile Device

[gdavis]

Today was the first day that I felt like doing anything on my truck. At last my tooth was felling a lot better.
Did you get the fan all wired up?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

Today was the first day that I felt like doing anything on my truck. At last my tooth was felling a lot better.
Did you get the fan all wired up?

I'm waiting for the used LS1 fan weatherpack connectors to be delivered, so once they arrive I can get it wired up.

[Xeen]

Hey all;
The LS1 cooling fan weatherpack connectors were delivered today.
Unfortunately because of some poor planning I'm going to experience a delay in building the harness.
The relays that I was going to use were non-standard so I was forced to order some off of ebay to save money and they won't be delivered untill next week.
The good thing about ordering these relays is they have connectors included which makes things a lot easier and cleaner.
Here is a link for those of you that are interested.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161023170069...84.m1439.l2649

[gdavis]

I order somemore parts today. Waiting for them to come in. So I started working on the shop exterior walls.

[Xeen]

Hey all;
The relays for the fan harness were delivered today.
Before I started building the fan relay harness I needed to take a look at the PCM harness because for what ever reason PSI bundled the Green and Blue PCM fan control wires with the interior section of the harness so I spent some time dissasembling the trunk and rerouting the wires through the trunk into the engine compartment section of the harness, that was a lot of fun...not, I need to call Jon and give him the heads up to put the Green and Blue PCM fan control wires in the engine compartment section of the harness in the future.

Tomorrow I will assemble and instal the fan relay harness.

[Xeen]

Hey all;
Jon from PSI emailed me back and said that most applications allow for the fan triggers to be routed with the chassis wiring.
He is right you could easily route the wires with the chassis wiring into the engine compartment.
I guess being that I'm inexperienced with automotive wiring I didn't think of doing it that way it just seemed much more logical for the wires to be in the engine compartment section of the harness to begin with so you don't have to route them anywhere they will just be there, but like I said I'm inexperienced when it comes to this sort of thing so what do I know and the beat goes on...

[gdavis]

well at least you got it done. and even a responce thats a plus

[Xeen]

Hey all;
Today I started on the fan relay harness.
I need some 10-12ga. non-insulated butt connectors to finish the job so I need to track them down locally tomorrow.

Here is my progress so far, I repaired the weatherpack connectors with 3x14ga. wires and 1x 12ga. wire for common ground, 4x 14-16ga. non-insulated butt connectors, then I soldered and shrink wraped them.
This picture also shows my relays.



Here is the diagram I am using for the fan relay harness.
This setup has 3 states, Off, both fans Low speed and both fans High speed, which is controlled by the PCM.