LockDoc's "Low Budget", "Low Maintenance" Project Thread

[LockDoc]

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I re-tested the gauges again using Patrick's suggestion. I meant to post a close up of the labeled gauge yesterday but forgot to. (picture 1)

Picture 2 is the overall view of the connections.

Picture 3 is a close up of the connections with the extra, stock 90 OHM resistor added.

Picture 4 is the readout on an old gauge I have

Picture 5 is of the gauge in my good cluster.

Instructions are the same as before, just with the extra resistor added.....
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[pjmoreland]

Looks good!

[Getter-Done]

Great Information.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Looks good!

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Great Information.

Thanks guys.
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[LockDoc]

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Installed the headlight relays today. Pretty straight forward if you follow the instructions on the board. You can buy the kits from almost every truck parts supplier or put your own kit together from junk yard parts.

Below are the diagrams. First one is Chevy, second one is GMC
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[LockDoc]

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Picked up a 4.10 gear for the Dually HO72, to replace the 5.14. It should drop the RPM and help the mileage some. I need to get a new pinion seal for it.
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[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Installed the headlight relays today. Pretty straight forward if you follow the instructions on the board. You can buy the kits from almost every truck parts supplier or put your own kit together from junk yard parts.

Below are the diagrams. First one is Chevy, second one is GMC
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Nice , good info. Thanks

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Picked up a 4.10 gear for the Dually HO72, to replace the 5.14. It should drop the RPM and help the mileage some. I need to get a new pinion seal for it.
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Very nice , should help a bunch.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Nice , good info. Thanks
Very nice , should help a bunch.

Thanks. I will know in a few days....

[Getter-Done]

The 4:10 will be a nice addition.

I am guessing 2200 RPM at 70MPH.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

The 4:10 will be a nice addition.

I am guessing 2200 RPM at 70MPH.

Thanks, I hope so.
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[LockDoc]

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I've been working on the replacement 4.10 center section for the rear end. I not only had to replace the pinion seal but I also had to install a pinion seal repair sleeve. I could tell when I looked at it that the seal was going to need replaced. The yoke had a pretty good groove in it when I disassembled it. I filled it with JB Weld and installed the repair sleeve while the epoxy was still wet.

I only had to pull the axles out far enough to clear the center section when I removed it..

I had to figure out how to get the center section up in the air far enough to get the transmission jack under it so I put a piece of steel pipe across two of the frame cross members and put a rachet strap over the pipe and around the bottom of the center section. I just tightened the rachet strap up until the center section was high enough to get the jack under it. I cut the heads off of 2 bolts and screwed them into the housing to use as guide pins to locate the center section. (you can see one of them in the 8th picture) When I got it high enough I just slid it onto the pins and put the bolts in. Before I slid it all the way back I put some "Right Stuff" sealant on the gasket.

The rest of the pictures are the gasket, and specs on the gasket, seal, and repair sleeve.

[LockDoc]

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Pictures.

[LockDoc]

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More pictures.

The pinion seal and pinion repair sleeve were ordered from Rock Auto.
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[Getter-Done]

Nice work on the Rachet strap lifter device.

30 years ago, you would have done that differently?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Nice work on the Rachet strap lifter device.

30 years ago, you would have done that differently?

You got that right. Now I have to use my brain more and my muscles (that I don't have) less....


I haven't checked my mileage yet but it dropped my RPM to about 2450 RPM @ 60 mph.

[67-72C10]

The best way I found to put on or take off the hood springs is while they are bolted on the truck hook a fan belt on the end of the spring right on the tip of the coil. While standing in front of the truck pull and lift it off the hinge bracket.
To install just hook the rear on hinge then with the fan belt on the tip of the spring and pull and hook it on the hinge.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 67-72C10

The best way I found to put on or take off the hood springs is while they are bolted on the truck hook a fan belt on the end of the spring right on the tip of the coil. While standing in front of the truck pull and lift it off the hinge bracket.
To install just hook the rear on hinge then with the fan belt on the tip of the spring and pull and hook it on the hinge.

Sounds like that would work good because of the extra leverage you would have. Thanks for the tip!
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[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by 67-72C10

The best way I found to put on or take off the hood springs is while they are bolted on the truck hook a fan belt on the end of the spring right on the tip of the coil. While standing in front of the truck pull and lift it off the hinge bracket.
To install just hook the rear on hinge then with the fan belt on the tip of the spring and pull and hook it on the hinge.

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Sounds like that would work good because of the extra leverage you would have. Thanks for the tip!
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I use a ratchet strap with the same concept as a fan belt.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

I use a ratchet strap with the same concept as a fan belt.

That would work good too. Thanks!
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[LockDoc]

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I finally got a couple of things finished up on the Dually Project that I have been working on for a couple of months off and on.

One of them was the cruise control, and the other was the temperature gauge that wasn't reading correctly.

The problem with the cruise was the switch was bad. I replaced the switch and it now works great!

The temperature sender on the 8.1 is a 3 wire sender and the Green wire was for the instrument panel gauge. (first picture) The stock '71 temperature gauge was reading really low, just above the cold line, when HPTuners said that the actual temperature was 195º. (second picture) I solved that problem by adding a 150 OHM Resistor - Colors: Brown-Green-Brown-Gold, between the Negative side of the gauge and the ground post at the bottom. (third Picture) That made the gauge read just above the center line @ 195º (fourth picture)

Here is a good resistor color calculator:

https://resistorcolorcodecalc.com/

I was really glad to get these two things finished up.
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