Project '64 Cheapskate

[chevyrestoguy]

Rusty, this is for you...

I was hesitant to post any pictures of what I've been doing because I wanted to complete some of it first, then do a start to finish explanation. Today, I was doing a bunch of stuff, so I took some pictures to show what's been going on.

This is an unattractive picture, but it shows how I raised the bedfloor 2.75". The bed wood usually goes underneath the flange that goes around the perimeter of the bed. I decided to mount the bed wood crossmembers on the top side of the flange, thereby raising the floor by the height of the crossmember (2.75"). The two primered crossmembers are ones that I made to support the floor in the area adjacent to the wheel tubs. In the stock configuration, the bed wood rests on the tops of the frame rails. Now that I raised the floor, there was no support for almost 36", so the crossmembers will now provide support. Without the supports, the wood would have snapped as soon as you stood on it.

Right now, I'm in the mock-up stage. When I'm done, everything from the cab to the back bumper will get removed, sandblasted, and painted chassis black.


I removed the gas tank from the cab to gain more cab room, and I didn't want to mount the tank between the rear frame rails because I want to utilize the factory spare tire location. So, that meant that the old saddle tanks that I almost threw away would be put back into service. Because the bed floor was raised, I built new tank mounts and moved the tanks up as high as they could go. I plan on sending out both tanks to Redi-Strip to be chemically stripped. When they get back, I will install new sending units and a vent system, and utilize the GM fuel tank solenoid switch from the '73-up trucks. I want to be able to switch tanks from inside the cab and use all factory parts. I was going to get really trick and fill the tanks using the factory filler neck, but I think I'm going to put access doors in the bed floor to fill the tanks. Here's a picture of the nasty looking saddle tanks.


I've been spending way too much time trying to save the original bed wood. It was cracked and broken everywhere, but after a lot of biscuits, filler shims, epoxy, and Liquid Nails, it's starting to come together. There is so much epoxy in those pieces that it they ever caught fire, they would melt instead of burn. I plan to cover them all with deck restoration paint, tinted in black. The bed strips will be sent out for powder coat. The wheel tubs were also moved up. I had to cut into the stake pockets so the tubs would clear, but it all looks factory. Here's shot of the wood just setting in place, with no bed strips.


I was also able to install the 67-72 Fleetside rear bumper. I still need to do a little tweaking, and the license plate box is a '73-up, which puts the plate at too much of an upward angle. I am probably going to build a new box, unless the factory 67-72 box solves this issue. Can anybody tell me if the license plate boxes are different?



That's enough for today. Tomorrow, I might try to tackle the spare tire mount.

[Low Elco]

That is a slick deal on the floor, I like that a lot. Shame there's no real slick way to do the filler, seems a pain to go over the rails every time, and it kinda precludes a tonneau, which is nearly indispensable on trips. Hmmm. It wouldn't be too hard with some tube to do like you were saying and come down and out the back of the cab and into the tank, then run an equalizer between them. Same grommet would probably work both in and out of the cab, hmmm.

Man, that '72 bumper looks good on those. Like it grew there. I used a Squarebody s-10 blazer license box from PNP on Yeller. Couple small mods, bolts right up, $5 including the light. Used a g-body plate flipper to hide the hitch. As seen here-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...501131&page=12

and here-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...501131&page=13

and in action here-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...501131&page=25

Great lookin' work, I can't wait for the shot of this and Brad's on the freeway together.

I notice the background changed, did this poor thing finally get to come home?

Glad it's coming together. Stoked for you.

[chevyrestoguy]

Thanks for the links and the tip on the S-10 Blazer license plate box, Chip. I assume that the box is from the '82-'92(?) style with the chrome bumpers. Funny, I should have known that. I had a really nice '88 S-10 back in the day that was a show-winner that wound up getting exported to Japan back when those guys were buying American vehicles like they were going out of style. The guy made me an offer that was thousands of dollars higher than anyone else, and off she went. I had a Blazer rear bumper on that thing, and that was the only time I ever saw it done. That thing had a KILLER paint job. I sketched up a design, and Brad and another buddy went nuts on the paint and graphics. It won "Best Graphics" (and a $1000 check!) at the Chevrolet-sponsored Pick-up Trick-up Contest at Pomona in 1991. We took out the heavy hitters of the custom paint world like Pete Santini, Doug Starbuck, and other big-name shops. I'll try to find some pictures of that truck and post 'em up.

Yes, the background has changed, and the '64 is now back at home. I had a slab poured next to the house, and now there's room for the '64, the '71 Camaro, and the '83 C10, plus I could maybe fit 1 or 2 more. Now, I'm looking at putting up some kind of roof extension so I can work in the shade and not have the cars out in the weather. I'm hoping to sell the '83 to help offset the cost. I'm in that "whittle-down" mode right now, and I want to thin out the herd and concentrate on 1 or 2 projects max. Right now, I'm thinking that the two projects will be the '64 and the Camaro.

[rusty76]

Thanks for the updates! The floor looks great. I know pictures don't do justice but still it looks awesome. I can't wait to see this thing finished up, but then I will be sad because I won't get to see more work.....grrrrrrr..... The rear bumper looks nice. You got it going on like donkey kong, lol. Thanks again.

[Low Elco]

Yup, got it off an '88 Blazer, I think.

Post 'em up! I'm actually a square dime guy at heart. I drove a dropped '94 4dr 2wd Jimmy for 8-9 years in the '00's. I ran the hell out of that truck. At 100+ in the rain, it'll wash it's own back window! (heh, heh, heh,...) I can remember when Starbuck was THE MAN. I got to deal with Santini a few times when I worked for Weld Racing for about 2 seconds, he was a nice guy. Sounds like you guys built a nice truck! Bet it wasn't the first or last...

Glad you got it home. I managed to get the dough for a side pad ratified by the Executive Committee, just gotta get warm. It'll be nice, I had one at the last house.

What's up on the '57? And where did an '83 c-10 sneak in?

[rusty76]

Yeah were did the '83 come from?????? Hmmm..... Okay we will let you slide.

[duallyjams]

Lets see a pic with the gate down.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

What's up on the '57? And where did an '83 c-10 sneak in?

The '55 is kind of dry-docked right now. It's got the second bay of the garage tied up right now. I'm going back and forth on this one. On one hand, I want to finish it, and on the other hand, I want to sell it. I'm torn.

The '83 has been around for a long time. It's an original half-ton fleetside, black on black. I bought it from the second owner, and he had it for a long time as well. The issue was (is) that the truck had a carburetor fire back in the early '90s and it burned the top of the engine. The guy put it back together, but eliminated all of the computer and sensor wiring. It runs good, but it's not smog legal, and in California, that's a bad thing. My initial intent was to get it back together with all the required 1983 stuff, and that turned out to be a hassle because from 1979 to 1990, GM changed the computer and sensor configuration every year. I even bought a complete TBI set-up, and when I talked to the smog referee about retrofitting it, he made it sound like that was going to be a huge hassle, so I backed off. This truck would be the PERFECT candidate for an LS engine. I have had many, many '73-'87 Chevy trucks, and this is the most solid one I have ever had. Not one spec of rust anywhere on the truck and only 1 dent the side of a pencil eraser on the body. The guys back East would die for this thing. It's got dual tanks, a small block, A/C, a 700r4, and I put a 12-bolt out of a '73 in it. If it was a pre-smog ('73-'75) I would be driving that thing right now.

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by duallyjams

Lets see a pic with the gate down.

I know what you're wanting to see! I haven't installed the 2x3 square tube across the back yet. On the edge of the wood, I will also install a piece of angle iron to protect the edge from damage when things get loaded into the bed.

[rusty76]

That sucks about the '83. But that's how it goes sometimes. When my uncle first got my '76 it didn't have any smog stuff and at the time it didn't matter. All it had to do was a safety check. This was early '80s. Then the laws changed here and he had to do the smog stuff. This was at the same time we put a smallblock 400 in it. He had a hard time with the Nazi smog guys. Finally he got it to pass. When I got the truck in or around '97 I had a terrible time getting the thing to pass. Looking back I think the smog stuff was really the problem and not the motor, but that's my story. I'm glad some laws have changed around here for the better.

[Low Elco]

LS that SOB. You know you want to.

PS- A thousand curses on you for telling me about it. I know a garage in Missouri it'd look good in. Thanks. Thanks a lot. Like I don't have enough going on.

[Jason's '72]

That floor and the bumper came out great, Alex!

[bj383ss]

Bed looks awesome. Interesting to see you use the saddle tanks. My grandpa had a 79 3/4 ton that had the saddle tanks and the electric switch. The cool thing about those is the gas gauge works on both tanks. He also had a 72 GMC that had the manual switch for saddle tanks and always had to track mileage to see when the tanks would be empty.

Your 83 sounds awesome. Too bad of all the smog stuff. I second the vote on an LS1 in it.

Bret

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by Jason's '72

That floor and the bumper came out great, Alex!

Thanks, Jason. Right now, everything is in a mock-up stage and when the fab work is completed, all of the bed and tank parts will all get blown apart and painted. I' was hesitant to post any pictures of what I'm doing right now because even in the fab stage, it looks awful. All of the rust and dirt makes it look like I'm building a Rat Rod (yuk). What's up with you, Jason?

Originally Posted by bj383ss

Bed looks awesome. Interesting to see you use the saddle tanks. My grandpa had a 79 3/4 ton that had the saddle tanks and the electric switch. The cool thing about those is the gas gauge works on both tanks. He also had a 72 GMC that had the manual switch for saddle tanks and always had to track mileage to see when the tanks would be empty.

Your 83 sounds awesome. Too bad of all the smog stuff. I second the vote on an LS1 in it.

Bret

The '73-'87 saddle tank theory is exactly what I'm going to use. The electric switch, the capability of reading tank quantity in both tanks, etc. I figured that I should use a system that is already proven and the parts are readily available at any parts store. I have resisted the notion of "out-tricking" myself by using as many factory off-the-shelf parts as possible. That way, if I'm out on the road and it breaks down, there's a much greater chance of getting it fixed and back on the road. When an ultra-trick part fails, you might as well call the tow truck, because you're dead in the water.

I thought about still utilizing the old manual tank valve as an anti-theft device, by having a battery switch connected to the valve. I decided against it, because it would mean that my cable to the switch (valve) would be super long because the battery is in the stock location. I would prefer to keep the battery cables as short as possible to eliminate current drop.

[Jason's '72]

Not much, just need more time! I know that you know what that's about! I bought all of the stuff to do my rear suspension, so I'll get to it one of these weekends. Might need a supervisor, if you've got some time. The beer's always cold!

[bj383ss]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Thanks, Jason. Right now, everything is in a mock-up stage and when the fab work is completed, all of the bed and tank parts will all get blown apart and painted. I' was hesitant to post any pictures of what I'm doing right now because even in the fab stage, it looks awful. All of the rust and dirt makes it look like I'm building a Rat Rod (yuk). What's up with you, Jason?



The '73-'87 saddle tank theory is exactly what I'm going to use. The electric switch, the capability of reading tank quantity in both tanks, etc. I figured that I should use a system that is already proven and the parts are readily available at any parts store. I have resisted the notion of "out-tricking" myself by using as many factory off-the-shelf parts as possible. That way, if I'm out on the road and it breaks down, there's a much greater chance of getting it fixed and back on the road. When an ultra-trick part fails, you might as well call the tow truck, because you're dead in the water.

I thought about still utilizing the old manual tank valve as an anti-theft device, by having a battery switch connected to the valve. I decided against it, because it would mean that my cable to the switch (valve) would be super long because the battery is in the stock location. I would prefer to keep the battery cables as short as possible to eliminate current drop.

I don't know if you plan on using one but I have a kill switch from my 6AL MSD hidden under the seat in my Caprice.

Bret

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by bj383ss

I don't know if you plan on using one but I have a kill switch from my 6AL MSD hidden under the seat in my Caprice.

Bret

Hmmmm....I like that. Very simple, low voltage switch, very effective and stealthy. That's a good idea.

[chevyrestoguy]

I did some work on the spare tire mount yesterday. I wanted to use the factory spare tire mount location, and now that the bed floor is raised, I have a little more room to tuck the tire up and out of sight. I don't like the look of the spare tire hanging down when it's up and installed. I also never cared for the clunky factory spare tire bracket and how much of a pain it is to take the spare in and out.

The first step was to blow out the rivets on the two spare tire crossmembers and remove them. One of the crossmembers is the small u-channel one on the top of the frame, and the other is the thin sheetmetal one about 12" back from the u-channel. This now makes an open space that if you place your spare tire winch correctly, you can stow a 27" tall tire between the frame rails.

I went to the local wrecking yard looking for a suitable spare tire winch, and unfortunately, our yard likes to use the area where the winch is to prop up the trucks, so there were hardly any that were accessible. Lots of guys have used Ford Ranger winches, but I could access any, so I wound up using a mid-'90s Blazer unit.

I built a simple bracket using a section of 1.5 x 1.5 angle iron, and I welded in some tabs on both ends. I wanted it up as high as it could go, so I made it level to the tops of the bed floor crossmembers. I went a little over-kill on the bolts (1/2" diameter, 2.5" long, Grade 8).

I mocked it up, using the two aft bed floor crossmembers as the supports. I could have mounted it one of two ways. Either with the jackscrew facing aft, or facing to the side. I would have preferred to have it facing aft and have the end of the shaft extension wind up behind the license plate, but that wasn't possible. When I raised the bedfloor, the bedfloor crossmembers went up 2.75", but all the other crossmembers stayed in the same location. The jackscrew shaft would have had to change direction a few times in the 18" distance for it to work, and even with a flexible shaft, that wasn't possible. So, I decided to move it to where the jackscrew faced to the passenger side. The reason for the passenger side is because if I ever have to change out a tire on the freeway, I don't want to be laying out in the road trying to get the spare tire out. I wound up using a factory GM flexible shaft from a mid-'2000s Chevy/GMC truck. I haven't built the bracket to support the end of the shaft yet, and I'll do that today. It'll be a bracket that will bolt to the passenger side frame rail with a tube welded to the top. The tube will have a .750 inner dimension, and the extension will slide inside it. The end of the extension will have a 3/8" end on it where I can use a ratchet to raise and lower the tire. Here's a picture taken from the passenger side.

Driver's side

From the rear looking forward

Here's a picture from underneath. It's a bad picture, but you can see that the spare is completely tucked out of sight. The bed floor crossmembers are now the "stops" for the tire. The tire sidewall is even to the bottom of the frame rail. You cannot see the tire at all unless you get on your ear and look up. Disregard the old tire and wheel. I found one in my pile that had the size I needed, and this was only used for mock-up. You go with a large as a 27" tire. You could probably go a little more if you trimmed the frame rails.


Next step: Building a trailer hitch. The hitch crossmember will also restore the frame strength that was lost when the two spare mount crossmembers were removed.

[rusty76]

Man I'm telling you....this stuff may seem trivial to some but to me there's nothing here that doesn't mean something. Everything is well thought out. How many of you guys thought of putting the shaft for the tire carrier to the passenger side so you wouldn't be laying in harms way? That there is difference between slamming it together and doing your homework. A+++. Great work! Man if I ever get to CA I'm going to have to pay you a visit.

[flips72]

bed is awesome and the spare tire mount..pure genius. great work.

[bj383ss]

That spare mount is just fantastic. I will be stealing that one.

And on the switch I have a B&M floor shifter that has the plastic base. It is right against the bench seat. I drilled a hole in the side facing the seat and put the switch. The wires run under the carpet and out the hole in the floor with the shifter cable.

Bret

[Low Elco]

Looks good! I need to get me a soultion like that, but I like a rear tank.

[1963c-10]

Great idea on the spare tire carrier....looks great

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

The '83 has been around for a long time. It's an original half-ton fleetside, black on black. I bought it from the second owner, and he had it for a long time as well. The issue was (is) that the truck had a carburetor fire back in the early '90s and it burned the top of the engine. The guy put it back together, but eliminated all of the computer and sensor wiring. It runs good, but it's not smog legal, and in California, that's a bad thing. My initial intent was to get it back together with all the required 1983 stuff, and that turned out to be a hassle because from 1979 to 1990, GM changed the computer and sensor configuration every year. I even bought a complete TBI set-up, and when I talked to the smog referee about retrofitting it, he made it sound like that was going to be a huge hassle, so I backed off. This truck would be the PERFECT candidate for an LS engine. I have had many, many '73-'87 Chevy trucks, and this is the most solid one I have ever had. Not one spec of rust anywhere on the truck and only 1 dent the side of a pencil eraser on the body. The guys back East would die for this thing. It's got dual tanks, a small block, A/C, a 700r4, and I put a 12-bolt out of a '73 in it. If it was a pre-smog ('73-'75) I would be driving that thing right now.

You may be interested in this-

http://bangshift.com/general-news/sp...rs-and-trucks/

[chevyrestoguy]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

You may be interested in this-

http://bangshift.com/general-news/sp...rs-and-trucks/

That's actually pretty incredible. The CARB is a huge money-grabber, and they seldom side with the consumer. I can't imagine how much money MSD spent to convince the CARB of the obvious. It's sad that the State doesn't throw the consumers a break all of the time. We've always said out here that they should check the vehicle at the tailpipe only. To fail a vehicle because it doesn't have all the stuff under the hood even though it passes the sniffer with flying colors is absurd. They get you coming and going out here.

The next step is compare the cost of the MSD Atomic vs. an LS swap. Might be pretty close when you consider the hoops the smog Nazis will put you through on the LS swap. Those guys are actually pretty clueless, and they've been known to nit-pick engine swaps to death, trying to find fault wherever they can.