Rustbuket 67 build "Georgia"

[Hardesty454]

Lookin good there stud!

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by Hardesty454

Lookin good there stud!

Thanks Chief, I have been watching your new build thread. Dont think I commented yet though. Looks like a great start



Tank notch painted with tank installed, again....










I really wish the fill neck was .75" taller. If it were it would fit perfect between the frame and bed floor. Oh well done with it now

[screaminchevypickup]

Looks good Dan!!
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[67c10rustbuket]

These pics show how it is mounted directly to the underside of the frame. I used two 1/2" bolts on each side through existing holes in the frame. A typical receiver hitch wont fit with the Boyd tank but I found the CPP hidden hitch will fit. I may have to get one of them someday

Driver side



Passenger side

This shot also shows some .25" rubber strips I cut on the shear to go between the tank and frame. Not sure if I need to use them or not. Any thoughts??



Here are a couple shots of the tank installed. Sure looks purdy






I also torqued all the hardware on the rear and marked them with a sharpie so I don't forget

[oldman3]

That sure looks nice, super job. I know you used lock washers and nuts to bolt in the tank, I think I would use locking nuts, just to be extra safe...Jim

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by screaminchevypickup

Looks good Dan!!
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Thanks Kyle!

Originally Posted by oldman3

That sure looks nice, super job. I know you used lock washers and nuts to bolt in the tank, I think I would use locking nuts, just to be extra safe...Jim

Thanks Jim, You have a very good point. I was always told to use large flat washers when bolting aluminum like this but that kinda takes away from the lock washer doing its job. I will get some nylocs on there next time I go to the hardware store.

[67c10rustbuket]

Here are my rear shock relocators. I started these a long time ago but I decided I was going to copy robnolimit instead of this style. BUT the nolimit shock relocators would interfere with the Porterbuilt track bar bracket on the driver side of the frame. Sooo back to plan A.


Upper shock mounts removed and marked. Be careful they are not symmetrical.


Cut them up with the plasma. Probably should have used a straight edge. They cleaned up fine on our vertical belt sander. Love that tool



All cleaned up.



Painted and installed.

[67c10rustbuket]

The idea on the upper shock re-locator is to move the hole up and BACK for more travel and to straighten them back up as before lowering.

Here is a link where I got the measurements.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=359399


Or you can just buy them from ECE or CPP.

I am doing my lowers like the ECE and CPP version from my own measurements rather than modifying the stock lowers to work. Here is a pic of my experimental shock fitting jig. Once I decide on a hole to use I will make some out of 3/16.

The lower mounts flip the tab down rather than up as original and maybe a little forward for better angle and more travel.

[67c10rustbuket]

Mounted the Idler arm bracket and idler arm. Moog of course painted with Seymour cast blast. I really like the cast blast finish. Looks new but wont rust like a raw part.



I also have the pitman arm but cant put it on yet because I noticed my blasted/cleaned/primered steering gear started oozing fluid so I bought a gates reseal kit. waaaa

[Zoomin]

Dan, that puppies coming right along! All you lack now is finishing up.

[El Campo]

Everything is looking great! Have not been on here in way way too long and I am happy to see that you are doing a fine job at keeping on going. So many thing I love about your build!

[Bomp]

Nice Clean Work!

[C10_ustacould]

Read through the whole thread, and I am impressed! Great job on the rust repair and chassis looks awesome. I wish I was as resourceful as you are, keep up the pace and soon you'll be ridin'!

[mcbassin]

Nice work on the shock mounts Dan. Keep up the hard work.

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Dan, that puppies coming right along! All you lack now is finishing up.

Thanks Steve, yeah a bunch of finishing up

Originally Posted by El Campo

Everything is looking great! Have not been on here in way way too long and I am happy to see that you are doing a fine job at keeping on going. So many thing I love about your build!

Thanks, glad to have you back

Originally Posted by Bomp

Nice Clean Work!

Thanks Bompenstein!!!

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Read through the whole thread, and I am impressed! Great job on the rust repair and chassis looks awesome. I wish I was as resourceful as you are, keep up the pace and soon you'll be ridin'!

Thanks Buck, resourcefull=cheap! I wish I were smart enough to find a truck like yours to start with. I didn't plan on a frame off when I bought my truck. The dang snowball just ran me over

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice work on the shock mounts Dan. Keep up the hard work.

Thanks Mike!


SO where was I? I punched holes in the rubber strips for between the frame and tank, installed them and changed out the nuts in favor of nylock lock nuts. Then I was messing around with some gas tank filler hose trying to figure where the filler will end up. I wanted it behind the rear wheel well in the floor but I really don't see how to make the turn up that close to the floor other than welding a sharp radius 90* pipe to a filler neck. Probably end up with a filler on the inner bedside or flush mount in the top of the bedside where the stake hole used to be. I will figure that out later once I put the bed together. I decided to go with a wood bed floor so I have a steel floor I need to get rid of.

[67c10rustbuket]

Now back to the rear shocks and lower mounts.

I decided to use this hole It is just mirrored off the original bracket on the opposite side. The other holes just didn't work out as I thought.



I cut the brackets with the plasma and smoothed the edges, and formed on the press brake. Time for a test fit.





I ended up having to obround one of the holes because my u bolts are a hair over bent, Just to make installation easier. Then I made some gussets to add a bit of overkill to them.



I put the new brackets on and installed new .5" x 2.5" bolts, press fit

[67c10rustbuket]

I bought some Monroe gas max shocks dirt cheap on rock auto and painted them to match the KYBs on the front Once I had them and mocked them up I realized I needed to add a .25" spacer on the lower mount to keep the shock tube from contacting the bracket so I made a couple spacers.



Now that everything was clear I installed the shocks and snapped a bunch of pics, everyone loves pics right







Paint was a little soft on this bracket

[67c10rustbuket]

Now I have plenty of shock travel and it didn't cost me anything other than spare time

Next up is the steering gear, When I blasted it and primed it fluid started seeping out of somewhere so I bought a seal kit. I removed the pitman arm nut and rented a pitman arm puller. Time to read the instructions

[TchncnDen]

I was able to change my seals out without disassembling the entire box. Just dig the old ones out with a pick or small screwdriver and tap the new ones in. I have done full rebuilds before and it's a pain in the butt and probably not needed.

[El Campo]

I too am curious about your steering gear! If you rebuild the whole thing be sure to show us pictures! I'm always worried about sand having possibly worked into the gear but maybe that's not a concern? Looking good!
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[oldman3]

Dan, great job on the shock bracket, etc., love the pics....Jim

[Homebuilt Hotrods]

Awesome build!

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by TchncnDen

I was able to change my seals out without disassembling the entire box. Just dig the old ones out with a pick or small screwdriver and tap the new ones in. I have done full rebuilds before and it's a pain in the butt and probably not needed.

That is what I was hoping I could do, so I took your advise and it worked great. Thanks

Originally Posted by El Campo

I too am curious about your steering gear! If you rebuild the whole thing be sure to show us pictures! I'm always worried about sand having possibly worked into the gear but maybe that's not a concern? Looking good!
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I figure my $20 tractor supply blaster is not tough enough to blast through the seals. Just incase, I left the rag joint, pitman arm, and hoses installed when I blasted it.

Originally Posted by oldman3

Dan, great job on the shock bracket, etc., love the pics....Jim

Thanks Jim!

Originally Posted by Homebuilt Hotrods

Awesome build!

Thanks I like yours too!

Update with pics up in a minute......

[67c10rustbuket]

removing the rag joint and pitman arm.





Then you can remove the cover bolts and remove the pitman shaft. make sure the gear is centered or it wont slide out. if you remove the adjuster nut count the threads or measure the length of the threaded part.



be right back, little man is crying again...

[67c10rustbuket]

Okay little man is asleep...


on the rag joint end (sorry forgot the technical name) there are two seals, the outer seal pulled out pretty easy. The inner seal didn't want to leave so I had to resort to drastic measures. I screwed a sheetmetal screw into the seal and yanked it out. I must not have take a pic before I put the new seal in but here is a pic of the old seals and the new seals installed.





You will need a good set of snap ring pliers. I had to borrow a real set from Daniel (suspect) once I broke a new pair from autozone attempting to get the first snap ring out. Thanks again buddy!

Back to the pitman shaft seals. There are 2 washers and 2 seals behind the snap ring like so: washer,seal,washer,seal. They are accessible from the other side of the box once the pitman shaft is out so you can push them out pretty easily.



Cleaned up the bearing, I guess I should have got the rebuild kit instead of the reseal kit. The reseal kit didn't come with the bearing. Oh well there is some corrosion where the pitman shaft rode on the seals that was the source of my leak so I don't plan on this lasting forever anyway.



new seals installed for the pitman shaft. I gently tapped them in place with a socket.



The great thing about the Gates seals is that they are the exact same as original and even have the same numbers on the seals as the ones I took out so there was no guess work as to which seal went where.