Project: Recycle

[67cheby]

thats some funny stuff right there.... i dont care who you are thats funny !!

[SCOTI]

It's been a few days (weeks), but I managed to get to the shop after work tonight.

Last time I was @ the shop admiring my work (), I noticed the 'new' brake lines were already flash rusting from nothing more than just sitting under the tarp (indoors). I buffed the front lines down w/a 3M disc, wiped them down w/degreaser, & re-installed them.

I inspected them tonight & the rust was starting to show again. I'm going to just paint them so they don't look fugly.

Since I was removing all the brake lines, I decided to swap the HD rear brakes into place. They had a basic 'clean-up' on the exterior surfaces by my buddy Matt when he turned the drums for me but were otherwise 'as pulled from the donor'. So I dis-assembled the internal hardware, wiped them down w/some degreaser, hit 'em w/a coat of black, & after they kind-of dried (dang Rustoleum), got the backing plates installed.

I'll try to get new internal hardware, shoes, & wheel cylinders tomorrow just in case I get an opportunity before or over the weekend to get them finished up. Other than that, I'm trying to formulate my game plan for the body swap as I'm @ that stage . . ....

[watahyahknow]

hmmm usually brakelines have a greenish gold plating to prevent them rusting (think they use zinkfosfate or sumtin like that ) , im suprised they rust so fast , you could smear a bit of acid free vaseline on them , that will keep the rust off at first , hit it with some brakecleaner and a rag and it should be clean enough for final paint

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

hmmm usually brakelines have a greenish gold plating to prevent them rusting (think they use zinkfosfate or sumtin like that ) , im suprised they rust so fast , you could smear a bit of acid free vaseline on them , that will keep the rust off at first , hit it with some brakecleaner and a rag and it should be clean enough for final paint

I was surprised as well. I've pulled OE brakelines from older trucks in the wrecking yard & the lines were rust free. These are 'replacement' OE steel from Inline Tubing. Plus, I had to make one line from scratch so the surface appearance was slightly different (enough to notice).

Painting them will keep everything consistent & is easier than making new lines from stainless.

[Jonboy]

Let me know when you have the swap party. I'm definitely in.

[n2billet]

(Y.S.) I would like to see some pictures......have you installed the motor/trans yet?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by n2billet

(Y.S.) I would like to see some pictures......have you installed the motor/trans yet?

Shooting for drivetrain install tomorrow.

*edit* Motor, trans, & chassis are all @ the same location. I hate working in the dark.

[SCOTI]

I was able to find what I wanted for the rear brakes. I went by this 'new' place (new to me) & it's old school! I told them it was the beginning of a new relationship .

So tomorrow Ill get the rear brakes buttoned up & drop the drivetrain in if timing permits.

[watahyahknow]

allways nice to find a shop with personel that actually know wat they talk about

[SCOTI]

Drivetrain is in place. I'll need to build a 2.5" trans mount spacer to get my targeted 5° trans output shaft angle; everything else went pretty smooth (other than the drivers side bottom motor mount bolt on the DM engine towers..... PITA).

I need about .500" added to the ECE style T/A x-member when the truck is @ full dump/bottomed @ the c-notches & a 1pc shaft would clear the x.member 'hoop'. This means some investigation is needed. Initially, I figured I would have to run a 2pc drive-line. What I didn't like about that plan is the added cost & complexity. With the dimensions being so close, I would really prefer to run a 3.5" 1pc shaft. So, tomorrow I'll crawl under the truck & take some reference measurements to see where (if) there will possibly be interference.

The final numbers were: trans output yoke was 5°; the carb flange was 2.0°, & the pinion was @ +1° @ ride height (pinion not finalized). That puts me @ 3.5" front compression travel & 3" rear compression travel before bottoming out so it should work pretty well on the road.

I also started the rear HD brake swap but didn't get far. I purchased all new spring & hardware kits thinking I would just quickly assemble things.... wrong. I laid down a coat of color on the drums & then started the install only to realize I needed to clean all the necessary brackets for the install (my brain was thinking the hardware kits had everything included). The only 'brackets' included are for the self adjusting set-up. It took much longer than I wanted to get the brackets all cleaned up (I cleaned them well enough for a coat of color just cause I tick that way ).

So, that's where the day/night ended (all the brackets are now ready). The next opportunity I get out to the shop, I should be able to actually get the swap done.

Crappy cell phone pic still counts as a pic . . . .....

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Crappy cell phone pic still counts as a pic . . . .....

Yes, it does....barely....

It's looking good. Nice progress...keep at it!

[N2TRUX]

NICE progress Scot. Glad to see your back on it again.

[67cheby]

looking good cant wait to see more

[SCOTI]

I need about .500" added to the ECE style T/A x-member when the truck is @ full dump/bottomed @ the c-notches & a 1pc shaft would clear the x.member 'hoop'. This means some investigation is needed. Initially, I figured I would have to run a 2pc drive-line. What I didn't like about that plan is the added cost & complexity. With the dimensions being so close, I would really prefer to run a 3.5" 1pc shaft. So, tomorrow I'll crawl under the truck & take some reference measurements to see where (if) there will possibly be interference.

Ok, I was able to get some dimensions off of the old chassis & cab. Then I mocked up an OE T/A x-member & an ECE unit for some height comparisons.

From the top of the OE style T/A x-member to the bottom of the cab floor directly above it is approx 1.375". The height differences @ the C/L of the d.shaft hoop on the x-members are: OE unit @ 6.75"H/inside dimension, 8.00"H outside dimension; ECE unit @ 8.125"H/inside, 8.375"H outside.

So using that 8.00"H dimension of the OE unit & adding the 1.375" space above it yields 9.375"H total or roughly 1" taller than the ECE set-up. This should mean I can stretch the height of the ECE d.shaft hoop up to 1.00" taller..... well above the needed .500".

I'm thinking a happy medium @ .750" taller. This keeps me .250" over what I need & .250" below the cab floor. The rear cab brace will possibly need to be c-notched for clearance but that should be it. These measurments were w/the original cab mounts too. The fresh cab mount rubber could possibly add more clearance.

Looks like I'm going to try & stick w/the 1pc shaft.

[watahyahknow]

will the coupling keep working under the angle to the rearaxle under full dump ?
i have seen people use some sort of double coupling made for offroad use or agricultiural purposes to handle the bigger angle

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

will the coupling keep working under the angle to the rearaxle under full dump ?
i have seen people use some sort of double coupling made for offroad use or agricultiural purposes to handle the bigger angle

Are you asking about the u-joints? I didn't check to see what the pinion angle was @ full dump but it won't matter much..... It won't get driven w/the axle touching the frame/c-notch.

[Jonboy]

I know Lincolns use a double cardan joint at the rear as a safety measure if you lose pressure at an air bag, and use a 1 piece drive shaft. That might be an option if you need it.

I also found the coil wire from the distributor out of the '74. I'm sure I will see you before you get to that point, but remind me to grab it out of the top of my toolbox.

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Are you asking about the u-joints? I didn't check to see what the pinion angle was @ full dump but it won't matter much..... It won't get driven w/the axle touching the frame/c-notch.

yeah the u joints i keep forgetting the correct words lately

[smbrouss70]

SCOTI,

I did a 6.5" rear Z on my truck with no C-notch and I had to raise my hoop on an ECE crossmember also. I added 1" to the height of it. When I put the cab back on the frame with new poly cab bushings the added height of the hoop is holding my cab about 1/8" off of the top of the mounts. You should be good with 3/4" but I just figured I'd share.

Oh, a little advice also... when I cut the top of the hoop off, either the "half-round" spread open or the crossmember itself closed up a little. Getting it to all line up again was a pain. If I had to do it again, I would tack some angle iron across the front and backside of the "half-round" and clamp the crossmember down to something nice and flat before I made the cuts.

[SCOTI]

I made it out to the shop again tonight. My buddy Matt stopped by & we got the rear HD drum brakes finished up. The drums still need a little more paint on the back side, but I need to wait a few more days to minimize the possibility of the previous paint lifting.

I received a 'card' from Summit Racing this week w/info on my back-ordered shock bushings. The card was printed on 12-17 (1 week after I received my other stuff) & indicated the bushings would ship 1-1-11. I re-checked the order status yesterday & it said they would be delivered by 1-11-10. I didn't get anything today so I checked again & now the order status indicates the bushings won't ship until 1-30-11 (order was placed the 1st week of Dec). Two months for 2 shock bushings?? I got on-line & found another source that has them in stock & states 2-3 day delivery on in-stock items so I ordered more from them & will cancel the remaining Summit order.

Before finishing up for the night, I took some quick measurements to get an idea on possible d.shaft length & came up w/something around 55.5" (using single u-joints & the trans tailshaft 1.25" from being fully seated).

Sounds like using the 'double cardan joint' set-up would be cheap insurance against problems in the event of an air related issue. When using one of these, is it preferable to have it on one specific end vs. the other? What about strength?

[watahyahknow]

not sure where i got it from i think porterbuild was fiddling with those u joints maibe he can tell you

[Jonboy]

All of my air suspension experience (or lack thereof) is from owning a Lincoln Mark VII. They use the double cardan on the rear joint. I don't think you would have any loss of strength there, at least until 100K miles or a ton of power. The DC has a spacer between the 2 joints, and a carrier there as well. I would imagine Driveshaft King could build you one locally to your specs and not rape you on the price. their # is (214) 941-7122. They do deliver here in Desoto, so they might to Rowlett, too.

[SCOTI]

I got the shock bushings in today. They work out perfect after a little slice & dice . . .....

[SCOTI]

Viola....

[watahyahknow]

was there a spacer included in them , usually a piece of pipe in the right length pressed in the hole to prevent the bolt from aquishing the rubber too mush