It’s Just A Pickup

[Newtz67]

An amazing build and a beautiful truck! Not sure how I missed this thread all this time! Subscribed now though!

[steppside69]

I a always impressed with your quality and attention to detail, keep up good work Eric
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[Hellfire420]

I recently re-did my gauge cluster as well, and testors model paint, 1231 gloss bright red was the closest match I found to the portion of a needle that never saw the sun. I found it at Michaels craft store for anyone who has a hard time finding it. Great job on the build and the amount of detail you put into this thread. I'm enjoying it

[chevytruckluver]

Looks great Bruce, better than it came from the factory I bet, glad you fought through the process

[bruceman1968]

Bruce, I have been subscribed to your thread for several months. Great thread, lot's of info. I really appreciate you taking the time for such detail, It helps so many of us.
I was just rereading the first few pages when I saw the last photo in post 29. with a question about the suffix code. I scanned a couple more pages and didn't see a answer. So I looked it up for you. The suffix code was TFD.

Code Year CID Vehicle HP RPO Trans Carb Comments
TFD 72 350 Truck 175 LS-9 TH 350 4-Brl C 10 & C 20, A.I.R.
TFD 82 350 Truck 165 LS-9 Manual 4-Brl
TFD 92 350 Truck 210 L-05 TBI

Here is a great website for casting numbers and such.
http://www.chevymania.com/
Hope this helps Bruce, signed Bruce

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by bruceman1968

Bruce, I have been subscribed to your thread for several months. Great thread, lot's of info. I really appreciate you taking the time for such detail, It helps so many of us.
I was just rereading the first few pages when I saw the last photo in post 29. with a question about the suffix code. I scanned a couple more pages and didn't see a answer. So I looked it up for you. The suffix code was TFD.

Code Year CID Vehicle HP RPO Trans Carb Comments
TFD 72 350 Truck 175 LS-9 TH 350 4-Brl C 10 & C 20, A.I.R.
TFD 82 350 Truck 165 LS-9 Manual 4-Brl
TFD 92 350 Truck 210 L-05 TBI

Here is a great website for casting numbers and such.
http://www.chevymania.com/
Hope this helps Bruce, signed Bruce

Thanks for the information, looks like a good information site for decoding numbers.

I gave that engine to Livrat (a forum member) for him to rebuild or parts. I installed a 10067353 - GM Goodwrench 350 crate engine 260 HP and 350 ft/lbs of torque in this truck, reference ( post #7 ) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318544

Looks like that was the original engine to the truck and it looked to me like the A.I.R. (smog) pump and parts where striped from it. Not that uncommon to find the smog equipment striped by a previous owner. That was an interesting time regarding the requirements for A.I.R. equipment on trucks, in some states the equipment was not required (exempt) so it all depended on what state the truck was sold in. If I remember right are truck from 1970 – 1972 might or might not have A.I.R. equipment depending on what state it was sold in and by 1975 all the trucks had A.I.R. equipment on them.

Thanks again for the information
Going to be holding on to the link for future reference

Bruce

[Bruce88]

If my memory serves me right
Or is it just floor shifter ergonomics

I’ve driven a few trucks with four speed floor shifters, stump pulling non-synchronized first gear (granny gear) where second gear was normally used as a first gear unless you where pulling a heavy load. As I slipped my hand off the steering wheel to shift into another gear the shifter knob was level with the center of the steering wheel, it just seemed like the right place for it. The shifter was not for fast shifting, in fact by the time I drove the trucks the shifters where somewhat worn and sloppy and some time you where hunting for the next gears, but it was a working trucks shifter.

Even though I have an automatic in my truck I wanted a floor shifter to resemble a four speed floor shifter. I’m using a Lokar Auto Trans 23 inch Shifter ATS6700AB, but there was a problem it seemed too tall and didn’t look or feel right to me. Lokar only makes a 23 inch shifter or a 16 inch shifter and I needed something in-between. Decided to shorten the 23 inch shifter.

For those interested in how I shortened the shifter, along with the pictures below, hear is some additional tips and information on how I did it. Where I think my dimensions in the pictures below are correct take your own dimensions as you take the shifter apart, you want to duplicate the dimensions (these dimensions worked for me). A nice chrome lever and didn’t want to scar it up holding it still or from rotating when cutting the threads, clamped the lever between two peaces of wood in a vice at the lever bend and also used a friend to stabilize it. You could cut the lever and then cut the threads but getting the die to start square/straight is some times hard, to eliminate that possible problem just used the existing threads and cut more threads than where needed. Definitely use plenty of tap and die oil when cutting the threads along with backing off the tap every one to two turns to clear the cutting chips, I’ve ended up in the past with damage new thread by not using oil or backing the die a ¼ turn and clearing the chips (you never see it until it’s to late).





Hears an after picture to compare shifter height after the shifter is shortened. I shortened the bottom end by two inches and the top by one inch, I see no way to make the lever shorter on the top because the shaft is tapered. Looks like I ended up with about a 2-3/4 inch reduction in height, closer to where I think it should be.

I now have a big trucks part on my pickup truck (smile). Found this Kenworth truck round shifter boot on Amazon.com from Big Truck Specialties (no part number) but says it matches OEM Part Number K042-D-70-2 boot.



I also found some floor mats on Amazon.com by Plasticolor (model number 001381R01) that I liked to finish off the floor. One problem with floor mats is that they have a tendency to move around and this is especially true on the polyvinyl mat. I’m using some 2 inch wide hook and loop (Velcro) with extra-strong adhesive backing I obtained from McMaster-CARR (part number 94985k811) across the aft section of the mat to hold them in place.

Before some one asks, the steering wheel is a 15 inch Grant that I was using before the build and I don’t remember where I got it and the switch you can see on the shifter I made so I can manually lock up the torque converter, ref back to (post #16) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318544





I probably don’t have any warranty on the shifter from Lokar after the modification, but it’s their fault, they should have made a 19 -20 inch shifter lever (smile). Some times I just want it my way, OK a lot of times and Ill do what’s needed.

Enjoy your build

[Cameron 1137]

Truck looks great man, that interior is so CLEAN! i love it

[Palf70Step]

Very nice Bruce!

[bobshotrodblazer]

Quote: "Some times I just want it my way, OK a lot of times and Ill do what’s needed."

Thats my motto also ....Nice job Bruce

[hotrodimpy]

Bruce88 Lokar will make custom levers. we have several options we bend all our levers in house and if we cam work within our all the lever options we have I will be happy to build a custom lever. Give us a call Toll Free 1-877-469-7440 Jeff or Eric will be glad to help. Thank you John

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by hotrodimpy

Bruce88 Lokar will make custom levers. we have several options we bend all our levers in house and if we cam work within our all the lever options we have I will be happy to build a custom lever. Give us a call Toll Free 1-877-469-7440 Jeff or Eric will be glad to help. Thank you John

Thank you for the information
I didn’t know that Lokar would make a custom lever,
Shortening the lever wasn’t that hard but all the rest know now that they can just order one to the size they need.

[mcbassin]

Wow! that interior is Awesome! super clean and neat. The mat turned out great as did the shifter. Keep the pics coming.

[Bruce88]

A comfortable place to sit
A place for planning my work day on the truck with a morning cup of coffee (smile)

The seats are finally out of the back room and installed in the truck, ref back to (post #25) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318544

The interior of the cab is just about complete, a few minor things to do like installing the passenger side door weather stripping and some extension links for the seat belts. At this time I don’t have any final plans for behind the seats, something I will think about later after I get the truck back on the road.







As I was assembling all the internal parts to the doors I added some sound deadening material. I used Dynamat Xtreme Trunk Kit, part # 19405 the kit comes with 5 sheets of material (18 inch x 32 inch) that covers 20 square feet of area.

The primary noise from panels comes from the larger flat areas of the panel. I used two sheets from the kit on the aft cab wall below the window, the other three sheets I cut up to the sizes shown in the picture below for the doors. I believe I eliminated 90% plus noise in the doors and aft cab wall.

The inside of the doors is a damp/wet area and needs to drain. The sheets of material where not cut to exactly fit the panel from edge to edge, in fact there’s plenty of space between the edge and the sound deadening material so that any water that gets in there will drain and I didn’t want to create any water traps.

Taking a picture of the sound deadening material installed is impossible to show with the small opening to look thru. I pulled some picture from my archives and marked them up to show you where I put the sound deadening material.



In a short time I will be moving on into the engine compartment to finish the install there.

Enjoy your build

[VA72C10]

Looking good!

[chevytruckluver]

isnt it time for another update Bruce?

[bollybib]

Hi Bruce,
I finally spent a few hours this morning reading through your thread. You started your build long before I showed up on this site. Guys like you that take the time to record all the details provide the rest of us with a lot of useful information, insight, and method of approach on a project. I particularly found useful your engine setup, exhaust system, garage wiring for your compressor, wire splicing, and the cab mount details. Post 510 was excellent. I’ve subscribed to your thread for future reference. Thanks and best wishes. It’s a lot more than Just A Pickup !
Jim

[Newtz67]

Wow! Very nice!

[chevytruckluver]

Hello Bruce, Hows the truck coming along? Any progress lately?

[Bruce88]

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

Hello Bruce, Hows the truck coming along? Any progress lately?

I wish I could say that I’ve been so busy working on the truck that I haven’t had time to post anything. But that isn’t true all these little things keep cropping up not related to the truck that’s been occupying my time. Maybe I just need to lock myself in the shop and get busy (smile). Possibly in a week or two Ill have something to post. Thanks for the interest and prodding, this is probably something that’s needed to move the build along (thanks)

[Bruce88]

The hardest panel to fit and fair
As far as I’m concerned the cowl panel is the hardest

The cowl fits between so many different panels that making it fit right can be a challenge. Not to say that I’ve made my cowl fit perfectly and there are definitely areas on my cowl that don’t meet all the factory fit and fair dimensions. But it’s just a pickup (smile) and this is just my attempt at making it fit.

There are four places on the cowl that you could find shims from the factory, the forward outboard corners and on the L & R pillar behind the door panels. One area I was having a problem with was at the center of the hood to the cowl. The cowl was about 1/8 of an inch below the hood and that was something that stuck out to me when sitting in the truck (yes you could see it from the outside also)(smile). I’ve seen this misfair on other trucks and you might run into on yours.

I looked around my shop and found some 1/8 inch thick nylon plastic material to make some shims out of. I suppose you could make the shims out of steel but I like the way the nylon plastic slips between the cowl seal and cowl with out scratching up the paint ( I wouldn’t use acrylic type plastic, to brittle). I cut the nylon plastic into 2 inch long x ¾ inch wide strips to use on both side of the screw locations and since the misfair tapered to nothing at the outboard end of the hood I used progressively thinner shims at the screw locations moving outboard. There’s a lip on the aft edge of the cowl seal that holds the shim in place and prevents it from sliding into the open cowl area.









I’ve also been working on the engine compartment wiring and hoses and will have pictures up soon. As you can tell by the pictures above the dust/dirt is building up from my slow progress so I better get out there (smile).

Enjoy your build

[VA72C10]

Nicely done! Looks great from here

[Newtz67]

That paint is so pretty... I'm a little jealous!

[R&K's71]

Wow such a beautiful work of art. After reading through your thread just a great detailed build. Keep up the great work

[propanemudtruck]

Great updates Bruce and once again, great work! Ya know, it's not perfect work, because it's just a pickup... HA! You do amazing work and I hope you are very proud behind that very humble layer!