Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[chevyrestoguy]

Looking good John! I'm always impressed at your ability to think outside the box. You definitely do your homework, and it shows.

Jason is building my tach right now. I chickened out and went with a 7K, not the 10K beast like yours. LOL.

[Chapstr's65]

I bought my truck in SC and it wasn't anywhere near the condition that yours was in.

[w00dst0ck]

Are you going to just run all those gauges off mechanical senders instead of the factory LS electric?

Going to be tough to get a mechanical speedo to work off the VSS. They do make a conversion box but I haven't heard much good about them.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Looking good John! I'm always impressed at your ability to think outside the box. You definitely do your homework, and it shows.

Jason is building my tach right now. I chickened out and went with a 7K, not the 10K beast like yours. LOL.

Appreciate it Alex! I'll be watching your build to see the tach!

Originally Posted by Chapstr's65

I bought my truck in SC and it wasn't anywhere near the condition that yours was in.

It's definitely not the typical SC truck. My "Winter Beater Build" has all the typical rust trucks around here have.

Originally Posted by w00dst0ck

Are you going to just run all those gauges off mechanical senders instead of the factory LS electric?

Going to be tough to get a mechanical speedo to work off the VSS. They do make a conversion box but I haven't heard much good about them.

I'll use the senders from a '66 283 or 327 and adapt them to the LS. Probably going to use a Magnum T56 with cable drive instead of the F-body T56 to solve the speedo cable issue.

I've also been thinking about using a C5 transaxle and IRS to move more weight to the rear and keep the bed floor lower. If I do that then I'll add an electric motor directly on the back of the speedometer like in this thread:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...-solution.html

[gcgxplosv1]

Awesome Build I'm new to the site just I stopped on my 71 SWB Project to complete a 64 Suburban with a 5.3 LS and 4L60E I like the work you've done on the instrument cluster for this series truck pls pls pls would you build me one
Gordo gcgxplosv1@yahoo.com

[MalibuKasey]

Are you not done building it yet???

You were talking pedal pressure earlier. So on my clutch master the way it ended up working out was the bigger the bore master the stiffer the pedal... I went with the largest and you felt my clutch pedal! That and the American Powertrain Roadrace setup makes for a fun trow.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

Are you not done building it yet???

You were talking pedal pressure earlier. So on my clutch master the way it ended up working out was the bigger the bore master the stiffer the pedal... I went with the largest and you felt my clutch pedal! That and the American Powertrain Roadrace setup makes for a fun trow.

That's what I'm looking for, as big as I can get away with to make the throw shorter without needing to eat a can of spinach every time I drive it. There already isn't much leg room and I don't like pushing a clutch pedal in three feet to get it disengaged... The VW pedal is pretty much perfect- very short throw, lightish effort, and very good pedal feel/feedback. The Conquest pedal is just the opposite, long and squishy. Mitsubishi decided it was a good idea to incorporate rubber cushions in the linkage and flow restrictors in the master cylinder to soften the pedal feel.

[theastronaut]

We have a local autocross event coming up in a couple months and our club's sponsor/guest is Rob from No Limit Engineering. And he's bringing his Hellboy C10. Makes me really wish 'Locks was rolling so I could load it up and take it, just to get input on what I've done so far.

I still need to figure out what rear axle/suspension I'm going to use. I'm leaning towards a four link and have been reading up on Ford 8.8" axles with 9" axle ends. I need something to limit axle end-play since the CTS-V calipers are fixed mount. Can't use anything with c-clips or I'll have pad knock back issues. I've also thought about using an aluminum center quick change so I can change the gear ratio to suit whatever track I'm on. The aluminum center might save a little weight.

[theastronaut]

In other news, Bomp has been rubbing off on me. Except I haven't been working on building a C10 farm. I've bought a couple more Conquests, a '63 VW Convertible, and a '77 Celica GT. I'm down to just two Conquests now (from 5) but the '63 Vert and Celica will probably end up as keepers. I'm hoping to sell one of the Conquests and the blue/white '66 C10 so I can build the Celica as a daily driver.


The '63 Vert was a craigslist find, saw the listing one morning and went to check it out on my lunch break. It turned out to be extremely straight and solid, and fairly complete. The guy only wanted $700 for it and even delivered it since it was still loaded on his trailer. Unfortunately the frame, vin plate, and title were used to build a... trike. I have a friend with a matching numbers but rusty '63 Vert that may become a donor car. I had an extra sedan frame that I threw it on to make it roll, and stuck it in the barn for a future project.












The Celica was pretty random. I'd never even seen a first gen Celica until I gave a buddy a ride to a used car dealer where he was buying a '91 twin turbo AWD Stealth R/T. While we were there he said that I needed to check out the really cool old Celica around back. I'm thinking "A Celica? That's going to be stupid..." Well, I had a change of heart after seeing it and hearing the old stories of the guy racing Celicas back in the 80's. He still had some left over race parts and the car had one of his race heads and cam installed. The price was right, and a few weeks later I still hadn't gotten it out of my mind so I went back last weekend to buy it. He ended up throwing in some of his old racing parts (extra intakes/carbs, new Arias forged pistons, etc.) when I went back to pick it up. It should make a cool daily, and the nasty lope at idle should scare the ricer kids that happen to end up beside it at a red light. I already had a pair of 40mm Weber sidedraft carbs that I'll throw on it (I reeeally like IR intakes and Weber/Dellorto carbs if you haven't noticed by now!) and it'll get Euro/Japanese spec bumpers, coilovers, and minilite style wheels... eventually.



The friend I dropped off (the one I'm blaming for all this!) helped to do a "Krylon Makeover" last weekend so it'll be less ugly once I start driving it.











They look pretty cool fixed up.

[Jeff La]

What did you use for the krylon, I love that color

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by Jeff La

What did you use for the krylon, I love that color

I never even looked at the can to see what the name was, I'll have to look tomorrow.

[aggie91]

OMG, you did a krylon make over?? We expect higher standards from you..LOL

Just kiding with you. It looks good in the picture and should make a fun daily driver. A friend in college years ago had one that he autocrossed with the school's car club. It was a fun little car.

Now, quit goofing off and work on this truck...

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

I never even looked at the can to see what the name was, I'll have to look tomorrow.

Paint was Krylon Oxford Blue, Satin.

Originally Posted by aggie91

OMG, you did a krylon make over?? We expect higher standards from you..LOL

Just kiding with you. It looks good in the picture and should make a fun daily driver. A friend in college years ago had one that he autocrossed with the school's car club. It was a fun little car.

Now, quit goofing off and work on this truck...

Me, having high paint standards...?!? I'm actually all about original/patina paint for my own cars- way less upkeep. That's one of the biggest reasons I bought this truck instead of some of the others I looked at- no need to repaint it.

A lot of guys have been ribbing me about buying the Conquest and Celica but it's been a good learning experience. I've had the '64 VW as a my only daily driver since '07 so it's been an eye-opener to have something that can actually go around a corner without constantly correcting and fighting it. The VW does really good for a 1930's suspension design but it has its limitations. It's also been good to get a different perspective of steering wheel, pedals, and shifter placement. Having that stuff in just the right place really improves the driving experience. Having supportive seats means you're not having to hold yourself in the seat and you can focus more on getting through and out of a corner better. Seeing those things has given me a better idea of what I need to build into the truck project to make it more enjoyable and practical to drive.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Paint was Krylon Oxford Blue, Satin.


.

Cool color.
I wonder if they sell it in quarts.

[theastronaut]

Been reading up on rear suspensions, and I think I'm going to go with a parallel four link with a full width panhard bar. I don't think that the extra fab work of a watts link is worth the effort when a full width panhard bar works so effectively. Plus a watts link would get in the way of gear changes if I go with a quick change axle.

Next step will probably be figuring out a rear axle and building step notches, then building the four link. I'm not looking forward to making the CTS-V brakes work on a straight axle, they have an internal drum parking brake.

[SCOTI]

Why not stick w/the Truck-arm set-up & tweak it for your performance goals?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Why not stick w/the Truck-arm set-up & tweak it for your performance goals?

Not enough forward bite at the ride height I'm after. The forward trailing arm mounts would be lower than the axle. Shooting for 4-5" ride height at the frame rails under the cab. Plus the trailing arms run into the frame rails going that low unless tall drop blocks are used, or tube trailing arms are made with built-in drop.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Not enough forward bite at the ride height I'm after. The forward trailing arm mounts would be lower than the axle. Shooting for 4-5" ride height at the frame rails under the cab. Plus the trailing arms run into the frame rails going that low unless tall drop blocks are used, or tube trailing arms are made with built-in drop.

Ok. I was thinking PB T/A's & just flip the front mounts as it raised the C/L 3" vs stock.

That seems easier (to me.... the KISS priciple) vs the planning, purchase, & execution of a 4-bar install since both would use the same Panhard bar configuration.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

... I'm not looking forward to making the CTS-V brakes work on a straight axle, they have an internal drum parking brake.

Look at my thread for Sunburn, post 272 shows the brackets to mount the C5 drum in hat rear brakes on to the 12 bolt truck rear end. Starting at post 410, it shows the parts going toether after painting them.

I thought I had other pics during mock up in that thread, but I guess not.

I don't know much about the CTS-V brakes, but I would think that just the one bracket that mounts the caliper cage to the other bracket could be changed to make them work....If you are interested, We could work out a deal on letting you try out a set for mock up to have your local guy cut you some and maybe even modify/make the parts you need. PM me your phone number. I'll call you and we can discuss...

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Look at my thread for Sunburn, post 272 shows the brackets to mount the C5 drum in hat rear brakes on to the 12 bolt truck rear end. Starting at post 410, it shows the parts going toether after painting them.

I thought I had other pics during mock up in that thread, but I guess not.

I don't know much about the CTS-V brakes, but I would think that just the one bracket that mounts the caliper cage to the other bracket could be changed to make them work....If you are interested, We could work out a deal on letting you try out a set for mock up to have your local guy cut you some and maybe even modify/make the parts you need. PM me your phone number. I'll call you and we can discuss...

Appreciate the offer! I don't even have an axle or the rear brake parts yet so I'm not ready for brackets any time soon. I'm pretty sure I'm going with a Ford 8.8 with 9" ends, so the flanges would be different anyways.


I came across this post while looking up the positives and negatives of different rear suspension designs. It's extremely detailed and informative, much of it is completely new to me so I'm trying to soak it all in still. Worth a read if you're into this kind of stuff.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=42568

[SCOTI]

Ron is one smart cat.....

[aggie91]

Sorry John...Thought I sent you a PM yesterday.

Also, try Tobin at Kore3. Here is a link to the C6 big brake kit for the ford 9" ends.
http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10346-03

I think the CTS-V has larger diameter rotors, but they might have the parts you need to make it work....

[theastronaut]

Been picking up more parts and reading up on rear suspensions and axles... There's a lot of info to read and digest, then try to make a smart decision. At the moment I've settled on a three link for the rear with a full width panhard rod. Seems to be the best choice for forward bite, tunability, and articulation without binding. The panhard will let me set up the truck to turn better left or right for courses that have more left or right turns. Or set it level


I've decided to ditch the 8.8 and go with a full floating 9", problably from Schreiner Interprises. The early Shelby guys use them and I haven't seen anything bad about them yet. This will take care of the axle end play/pad knock back issues.

http://www.9inchfloater.com/Complete...rEnd_28_31.htm




Bought a NOS hood repair panel.




Finally found a pair of Cibie fog/driving light covers. These were reproduces a few years ago but I missed out on the ones shipped to the US. These showed up on the German eBay so I had to grab them.





And this portion of the program is brought to you by Arby's... "We have the meat." I picked up a set of 335/30-18" BF Goodrich G-Force KDW tires to get the truck rolling. They're not as sticky as I'd like for autocross or track days but they'll be perfect for the street. I knew they would be wide, but I wasn't expecting them to nearly come to the top of the S10's bed sides! I dropped off the front wheels to have them mounted this morning so the front will be rolling shortly.

[ajgriffin]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

The manifold and calipers came today. Moved the frame into it's permanent spot for the winter, so I'll level it and move on to building the A-arms. Still haven't found a source for bare 73-87 LCA shafts at a reasonable price so I'm going to LKQ tomorrow to dig around.

The calipers are huge. I've seen them on a CTS-V before but their size can't be fully appreciated until they're off the car. Over a foot long!

First off, I enjoy watching you work! Always top notch! I do have a question: are those the same CTS-V brake calipers you purchased earlier in the thread? How'd you go about switching the logo to "Brembo"?

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by ajgriffin

First off, I enjoy watching you work! Always top notch! I do have a question: are those the same CTS-V brake calipers you purchased earlier in the thread? How'd you go about switching the logo to "Brembo"?

Appreciate it! They are the same calipers, I tried to wetsand the CTS-V logo off but that didn't work- the yellow paint sanded through before all of the black logo came off. I'll have to repaint the calipers to fix it properly. The Brembo logos are just vinyl decals, I have an extra set to use as masks for when I repaint the calipers.