My Big Fat Renovation

[67ChevyRedneck]

...and I bought another new toy...

I think I paid the same for this as I did my new John Deere lawn mower.

[mongocanfly]

Looks great Jesse..!!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Spoke too soon. Footings failed inspection. Greenville County requires minimum 12" (depth) for all footings. 6" for one story plus 6" frost depth. So minimum size for a one story building is 12x12, mine will end up being 16(wide)x12 (deep). Glad they check before they're poured.

So, I almost had poured footings today! That was the contractors goof. I was paying them to handle everything ground related. I gave them all the info on my building. They're going to come back out and dig them deeper. I offered to pay for the concrete difference (only about $350-400) to keep the peace and keep things moving. Unfortunately, They won't be able to get it done for a couple days + inspection wait, so maybe Thursday now.

Good news is I'll be picking up my new tractor on Wed.

[Palf70Step]

What is the specs on the Ferd? is that a Jubilee model or newer? Love the look of the old Ford Tractors

[67ChevyRedneck]

I'm picking it up Wednesday night. It's either a 53 or 54, I'll need to verify which, but it did have the Golden Jubilee badge on it that looked kind of original. Hard to tell, almost every part is repopped now for these (the fenders are aftermarket, they don't look right, I'm going to replace them with original style FORD scripted ones).

[67ChevyRedneck]

Foundation redug to 12"x16" and poured. The pipe is for my roof downspouts.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Begining of block work.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Block work done.

Apparently I wasn't clear enough that i wanted rebar, so I went back and drilled and epoxied 1/2" bar in every corner, door jam, and every 6-7' down the walls. They also left me plenty of sand and mix so I'll fully grout the cells as well. totally unnecessary overkill but I've got a few weeks before my trusses will be here.

I also didn't like their bolt placement so I pulled them all and placed them based on where my bottom plate boards will be. +/-12" from each end and I'm 4-6' down the line.

As a side note, that rebar epoxy is no joke. It literally dries hard as a rock in 15-20 seconds. I made the mistake of filling 4 holes then went to put the rebar in and it was rock solid. Even my hammer drill didn't like drilling it back out.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

...and I bought another new toy...

I think I paid the same for this as I did my new John Deere lawn mower.

Looks like an very nicely redone 8N tractor. Should be a 4 speed? I'm actually looking at these out here as we are moving to a new home on 5 acres in the spring. I think a good 8N with a brush hog mower will do the job. Great looking tractor!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Final rough grading and clean up.

[67ChevyRedneck]

5x5 pads for lift. Most of the lifts I'm looking at require 3.5"-4" pad. Mine will be +/-7" at lift posts.

[67ChevyRedneck]

And I now have a floor and driveway.

I ended up paying a little extra to get a 5" slab. There just wasn't enough fall at my driveway, so I made sure we had at least a 1/2" drop across my door sills to keep rain out before the slab ties into the drive.

The drive has about a 1.5% slope on the right side away from the garage, about 2% on the left away from the garage, and it also slopes about 2-3% from right to left towards my existing drive.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I got to see most of the work being done. Footers were dug on a sat. Block was done on fri/sat (fridays are half days for me). The final grading was done on a sunday because of rain. I took half a day yesterday and was able to see 95% of the pour.

That's it for paying for stuff until it's time for electric. It's on me now.

To give you guys an idea of how expensive garages are, I had MASSIVE amounts of dirt to move. The final tally was somewhere around $17,500. That included digging out the pad, footings dug and poured with rebar, block work, and a 5" pad with 4" driveway and a final rough grade.

$1,300 taking down 5 massive leland trees.

$950 to relocate electric.

So that's $19,750 for the base Obviously, if you have a flatter site than mine and no huge trees to move, you can get out a lot cheaper, like 30-40%.

I've ordered all my trusses: $3,400 delivered - about 3 weeks out. Mine are probably more $ because I'm going to have a 10' wide attic storage space built into the trusses.

The place that did my house windows will be making the garage windows for me, Taylors windows is 100% USA made windows right here in Greenville. 7 windows will be about $1,800. They also have a 3-4 week turnaround.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I got to see most of the work being done. Footers were dug on a sat. Block was done on fri/sat (fridays are half days for me). The final grading was done on a sunday because of rain. I took half a day yesterday and was able to see 95% of the pour.

That's it for paying for stuff until it's time for electric. It's on me now.

To give you guys an idea of how expensive garages are, I had MASSIVE amounts of dirt to move. The final tally was somewhere around $17,500. That included digging out the pad, footings dug and poured with rebar, block work, and a 5" pad with 4" driveway and a final rough grade.

$1,300 taking down 5 massive leland trees.

$950 to relocate electric.

So that's $19,750 for the base Obviously, if you have a flatter site than mine and no huge trees to move, you can get out a lot cheaper, like 30-40%.

I've ordered all my trusses: $3,400 delivered - about 3 weeks out. Mine are probably more $ because I'm going to have a 10' wide attic storage space built into the trusses.

The place that did my house windows will be making the garage windows for me, Taylors windows is 100% USA made windows right here in Greenville. 7 windows will be about $1,800. They also have a 3-4 week turnaround.

Looks like a great start! What size is this building? Are you stick framing the walls and the trusses are just for the roof? How high are you making it? I am in the very early planning stage of a shop building and thinking thru all these things now. The costs are really helpful - thanks!

[67ChevyRedneck]

I posted this in another thread, but this is the plan:



I plan to put whatever I'm working on where the lift is. My big 20+ foot long silverado will park behind that. Then on the left side 3 muscle car sized vehicles will fit nose to tail with about a foot, foot and a half between them.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Looks like a great start! What size is this building? Are you stick framing the walls and the trusses are just for the roof? How high are you making it? I am in the very early planning stage of a shop building and thinking thru all these things now. The costs are really helpful - thanks!

28x52. It was originally 30x50 but after cutting out the slope, the 30' wide wasn't going to fit. I wanted to go a big longer than 52', but because of the slopes cost was starting to grow quite a bit.

Stick build to match the house, which is obviously much more $ than a pole barn with metal sides and roof. After the floor, there's just shy of 11" to the top of the block. If I had gone with a 4" slab it would have been an even foot. I'm going with 12' walls, so I'll have just shy of 13" clearance for the lift. Remember anything over 11' requires 2x6 framed walls.

I will be doing all the work after this point (except electric, and I might hire out the mud/sand work on the sheetrock). I'm estimating the shell alone with a roof will be 8-9K, then there's doors, windows, siding, electric, insulation, sheetrock... easily 20K+ total. With the lift, I'm expecting my total cost to be around 45K, maybe 50K. I have worked hard and saved the last 3-4 years and have around 30K to spend before I need to take out a loan to finish it. I would imagine what I want turn key from a contractor would be in the 70-75K range from start to finish.

I hope to have a full shell with roof by October.

[mongocanfly]

looks great Jesse..!!! i was looking thru your pics and wondered if you did...and sure enough..there it was, the thick pads for the lift....

[Palf70Step]

Very nice Jesse. Looking forward to your creation process.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

looks great Jesse..!!! i was looking thru your pics and wondered if you did...and sure enough..there it was, the thick pads for the lift....

Yea, it's amazing how thin some of the pad specs are for 2 posts, mine should be about double what's required. They scare me a little. I really wanted to do a 4 post for safety, but you're so limited on what you can do with one, or it's more difficult to make good use of them (like swapping a rear end, or rebuilding a front suspension, or even doing brake work). I totally plan on buying extra trans/axle jacks and spinning them under the front/rear for added safety when I have a car up.

[mongocanfly]

i love my 2 post..one of the best additions ive made to my shop..
the extra jacks are a good idea...just the other day i really wished i had them...i had the IH on the lift to do the rear gear swap...i pulled the tires,axles, and diff,,,the bed isnt on the truck at this time..i had the truck about 6ft off the ground and had been setting gear backlash and such, puting diff in/out...i was getting ready to torque the pinion when i noticed i could see air between the frame and lift pad on one side...i thought what the heck!!...i pulled down on the rear frame and it touched..then i picked up on the frame...i bet it didnt take 10lbs of effort to lift the frame off both rear pads...the truck was teeter tottering on the front lift pads!!!!!..i panicked and grabbed a couple rachet straps and thru over the frame rail and lift arm...then let the truck down and piled about 200lbs of metal on the rear frame rails..it was a close call..with all the weight i removed it could have been really bad..

[67ChevyRedneck]

Have to change your underwear after? I would have

Did you go with the over or under hoses?

My thoughts on under is that I trip on everything....

On over, what if the hose ever leaks? Will it ruin the paint on whatever I have under it?

I'm leaning towards overhead because I am a clutz and don't need that extra thing to trip on.

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Very nice Jesse. Looking forward to your creation process.

Thanks Bill, but this is one time I wish I could snap my fingers and put my toys in it now!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Looks like an very nicely redone 8N tractor. Should be a 4 speed? I'm actually looking at these out here as we are moving to a new home on 5 acres in the spring. I think a good 8N with a brush hog mower will do the job. Great looking tractor!

Just noticed you snuck this in the middle of my posts.

Mine is actually a 1953 Golden Jubilee (NNA), the model right after the 8N's. It is a 4 speed. You may want to look into a Jubilee, they have a few advantages over an 8N.

The engine and hydraulics are the biggest difference. 8N's have a flathead 4 cylinder, the Jubilees are a more traditional overhead valve. The Jubilees have a little more HP and live hydraulics for attachments (you can add a hydraulic pump to an 8N though). I also prefer the styling of the jubilees over an 8N by just a hair. Growing up my dad had an 8N and my grandpa had a Jubilee.

[mongocanfly]

Jesse , my hyd are over..i dont need any help tripping either....but the hoses and cables are in a tray so if there was a leak it should run to the ends and down the columns...not accouting for a blown hose that would blow everywhere...
i got the atlas x-wide x-tall 10k lift...this is what id recommend...i can back a trailer between the columns and unload it with the lift..and the xtra height is nice also...i got mine from greg smith...
theyve gone up in price since i bought mine...i gave 2100 for mine...
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/A...IDE-EXTRA-TALL

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Jesse , my hyd are over..i dont need any help tripping either....but the hoses and cables are in a tray so if there was a leak it should run to the ends and down the columns...not accouting for a blown hose that would blow everywhere...
i got the atlas x-wide x-tall 10k lift...this is what id recommend...i can back a trailer between the columns and unload it with the lift..and the xtra height is nice also...i got mine from greg smith...
theyve gone up in price since i bought mine...i gave 2100 for mine...
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/A...IDE-EXTRA-TALL

That's a nice lift at 15' tall!

I have noticed that they have crept up in price by +/-$800-1000 the last couple of years. Tremec transmissions have done that too. 10 years ago a brand new tremec TKZ could be had for $1400. I was looking into buying one for my 65 Mustang... $2,600 now.

[mongocanfly]

It's actually 12ft7in...they recommend 13ft ceiling to stand it up...
They had a demo model I could have got for 300 less...but they wanted me to come back the next day to get it....I told em I wouldnt drive back thru Atlanta 2 more times for 300....or 500...so I took a new one