Restoring Rusty

[Rich84]

The plot thickens....

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Rich84

The plot thickens....

yes sir, game on, the wiring harness is in that white garbage bag, and the computer aka the PCM in a grocery bag in the cab, ha ha, so it's all pretty much there, Top Tip: buy as much as you can in one shot! so you don't get nickle and dimes to death

[Palf70Step]

Nice!!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Nice!!

oh yeah, and only $1K for both the engine, transmission, wiring harness, and computer, HUGE THANK YOU TO THE SELLER, such a cool guy

12200411 = 2001-02 PCM

red/blue connectors = 1999-02 drive by cable

[Wgesnerjr]

spoiler alert:

You will LOVE the LS motor! Mine was worth all the work, X2!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

spoiler alert:

You will LOVE the LS motor! Mine was worth all the work, X2!

Bro, other than having to dust off my metric socket set, ha ha, so true, ten minutes with her and I am already like wow I love the valve cover design, it will not leak oil with the high cylinder walls, every bolt I go to remove comes out cause to me a 20 year old engine is BRAND NEW ha ha having worked on a 45 year old one

no broken off exhaust manifold bolts, that's a surprise

anybody know if the exhaust manifold flange will fit the downpipes from a 5.7 Vortec like off of a 1999 Tahoe/Suburban?

[Gregski]

my truck did not have AC from the factory so I decided to delete the AC on the LM7 5.3 L engine, so easy, the AC compressor uses it's own belt and belt tensioner so it all comes off super easy and there is no need for an idler pulley to replace the compressor one, nice

[kipps]

If I remember correctly, you went to a bit of trouble to put a manual in your truck. Correct or no?

If so, are you intending to stay with a good stick-shift, or install that slushbox? You can probably guess which way I vote.

[Jake Wade]

I am in for this swap!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

I am in for this swap!

Me Too!

so one of the reasons I got such a great deal on this combo is because the owner did not know the VIN and could not tell me that information (knowing the VIN was important to me because I did not see all these parts come out of the same vehicle so I wanted to run a VIN checker to find out what year this was off of and confirm it was a RWD originally, etc.)

so off to Pick N Pull I went and bought just the blue connector for the computer and a Obi-Wan Kenobi port so that we could make ourselves a bench harness, which for us Carburetor Generation is just a cable that will connect the car computer aka the PCM (while out of the car) to our laptop so that we can get some information off of it. I also bought a generic universal 12 volt 1.5 Amp AC adapter to power up the PCM off the car.

while we wait on our $300 dollar HP MPVI2 Tuner to arrive we are going to try to get the VIN at least off of this PCM using an ELM 327 Interface (serial dongle that plugs into a cars OBD2 on one end and the USB port on your laptop on the other end)

NOTE: you can pull some information off of the PCM this way and clear the error codes, but you CAN NOT program it with this hack.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by kipps

If I remember correctly, you went to a bit of trouble to put a manual in your truck. Correct or no?

If so, are you intending to stay with a good stick-shift, or install that slushbox? You can probably guess which way I vote.

what you did not read this thread in it's entirety? LOL

my truck originally was a 4 speed manual (SM465 iron granny gear box), and the reason I bought it, regardless of what people say manual trucks are very hard to find be it 45 year old or modern, trust me I know I have been looking for them for years

I swapped the SM 465 for an A833 like GM 4 speed (from GM mid 80s trucks, direct bolt on no trouble at all) with overdrive, so one GM trans for another GM manual factory trans

I luv stick shifts - after all I am European (shh don't tell anybody)

I really wanted to go 6.0L with the NV4500 5 speed manual but those are Unicorns and immpossible to find, the only two trucks I have seen with those in the entire United States were 4x4s and I want a RWD

The 5.3L LM7 engines only came with Automatic transmissions

since this is my first swap I am keeping it simple and installing the 5.3 with the 4L60E automatic

and YES, the day after I install it a 6.0L manual donor truck will pop up on Craigslist, ha ha ha

good questions bro,
G

[Gregski]

and then the gods smiled at us and said let there be LS Swaps...

[Gregski]

... and pretty soon we were WINNING

I don't know much about the 5.3 L LS engines but I do know that in 2002 they got rid of the EGR holes in the exhaust manifolds, so rather than buy block off plates for mine (2001 ?) I decided to just swap the manifolds for that oh so important cleaner look - Chics dig smooth manifolds!

this was such a triple win:

1. we got EGR hole free manifolds

2. they came with downpipes (less bending of pipes for me)

3. they came with downpipes that had O2 bungs already in them in the factory locations

[hatzie]

Programming the 6.0L LQ4 or LQ9 PCM to operate stand-alone for a Manual transmission or early mechanical Automagic is the same as programming the 5.3L LM7 PCM for the same. Other people have done this so tune files that you can peruse to see how the other guys did it should be easily available.
You can change from 4x4 to 2x4 just as easily.

Programming...

Programming the PCM to GM defaults for the donor engine and settings you want would be my first step. Pick a VIN for the LM7 that has a manual transmission and 2WD. Who cares what the VIN in the PCM is as long as it has the options you want so you can write the proper baseline Calibrations to the PCM. If you look at my 2005 Silverado thread there's info on how to do this using a Chinese WiFi MDI or GM VX Diag or some other SAE J2534 interface and the AC Delco TIS web applet. You will have to pay $40 for a 2 year Delco TIS subscription... HP Tuners MPVI2 doesn't act as a J2534 interface.

First set the PCM to an original GM baseline via TIS then start tuning it. Why do I say this?
HP Tuners, and likely others, business model is geared toward servicing professional "tuner" shops. Hobbyists appear to be an annoyance to them. The "single PCM" credits you buy are supposedly licensed to one PCM. There is no un-changeable ESN in the PCM so "Licensed to a PCM" is not an accurate description of how they are determining what PCM is connected to the interface. As near as I can determine they use the PCM Operating System, VIN, and several other software settable items to determine what PCM the interface is connected to. These software settable items could be changed by an update from TIS. If you change/update the OS or configs from TIS after you register HP Credits to the PCM it will void the credits even tho you haven't changed the hardware. They will make you buy two more credits for the "new" PCM. They are pretty hard nosed about it too.

I believe the LQ4 and LQ9 cranks were bored for a pilot bearing. You just have to get one that matches the input shaft on your transmission.

The LS bellhousing is missing one of the RH bolts but the old Chevy bellhousing will still bolt up.

The flywheel and possibly the transmission input shaft length is where it starts to get fun. The distance of the flywheel mounting surface of the crank to the bellhousing mounting surface differ from the old Chebby smallblock and big block engines.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Programming the PCM to GM defaults for the donor engine and settings you want would be my first step. Pick a VIN for the LM7 that has a manual transmission and 2WD. Who cares what the VIN in the PCM is as long as it has the options you want.

Seriously, that is Information Gold right there bro

Originally Posted by hatzie

If you look at my 2005 Silverado thread there's info on how to do this using a Chinese WiFi MDI or GM VX Diag or some other SAE J2534 interface and the AC Delco TIS web applet. You will have to pay $40 for a 2 year Delco TIS subscription.

First set the PCM to an original GM baseline via TIS then start tuning it.

thank you so much

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Seriously, that is Information Gold right there bro



thank you so much

The HP Tuners way of installing a "new" PCM is geared toward optimizing their profitability and steering you toward buying year or model blocks for more $.
You don't have to buy 6 credits to program a replacement GMT800 PCM...
Program the "new" PCM to the VIN you are using with TIS and a J2534 interface... then purchase 2 HPT credits for that "new PCM".

[kipps]

Originally Posted by hatzie

The flywheel and possibly the transmission input shaft length is where it starts to get fun. The distance of the flywheel mounting surface of the crank to the bellhousing mounting surface differ from the old Chebby smallblock and big block engines.

The 5.3 LM7 should be bored for a pilot bearing as well. After all, it was the same crank as a 6.0, which was optioned with a manual.

Put a 4.8/6.0 flywheel on the 5.3, and you'll be within adjustment distance of the original small block.

The Vehicle speed sensor could cause some issues. I'm still looking into that on a Gen 4. I also intend to get an accurate enough signal through the computer to run a stock '91 speedo.

Some random measurements and notes of mine are found here.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Programming...

Programming the PCM to GM defaults for the donor engine and settings you want would be my first step. Pick a VIN for the LM7 that has a manual transmission and 2WD. Who cares what the VIN in the PCM is as long as it has the options you want so you can write the proper baseline Calibrations to the PCM. If you look at my 2005 Silverado thread there's info on how to do this using a Chinese WiFi MDI or GM VX Diag or some other SAE J2534 interface and the AC Delco TIS web applet. You will have to pay $40 for a 2 year Delco TIS subscription... HP Tuners MPVI2 doesn't act as a J2534 interface.

First set the PCM to an original GM baseline via TIS then start tuning it.

let's dance

[Wide Open]

Originally Posted by Gregski

let's dance

Gregski or Hatzie,

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1559002593


Will this gizmo read BCM info? Like Service Suspension System codes?
HPTuners will not. Any experience with the fake Tech II’s (the ones that aren’t PC based emulators)?

[Wgesnerjr]

Where, oh where has our Gregski gone. Oh where, oh where can he be?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

Where, oh where has our Gregski gone. Oh where, oh where can he be?

um.... A '54 named Busty - LS Swap !!!

[Gregski]

PICK-n-PULL is also a great place to document how things are connected. Here we snap a pic of one of the ground straps and file it for later. It runs from the back of the driver side cylinder head to the firewall, yes we tried to remove it but that bolt in the back of the cylinder head is impossible to get at while the engine is still in the vehicle, thank you GM (does the G stand for German, LOL)

[Gregski]

top of the morning to you my fellow LS Swappers

decided to evaluate the wiring harness, I knew it was a bit ruff

it appears the previous owner started to thin it out already and judging from the way he put the blue pin guard thingies upside down I have a tendency not to trust his work too much, ha ha

why not just send that harness in to a pro to have him do it for you?

well now how do we expect to fill the Cuss Jar if we do that?

Please Note: there are so many outstanding tutorials WW.LT1SWAP.COM on all things LS Swap that I am not going to reinvent the wheel and do a how to, but just share with you some things from my crazy Pollack perspective (ie LS Swap for the Complete Idiot underlined for emphasis not a link, ha ha)

I will be following the procedures using the [ahem] Old Testament found here: PCM Connector Pinouts 99-02 to identify and label all the connectors.

[Gregski]

so my harness is 90% good except for the branch that runs to the MAF which includes the passenger side two O2 sensors, well the previous owner cut them both off, so I yanked out the after cat wires and left the pre cat ones in, but I am stumped by some junk that appears to be spliced on to a black ground, one pink wire, and one really heavy gauge red wire that runs up to the fuse block with a single black connector

maybe one of youz can help me out

[hatzie]

I have the 2005 service manuals in hardcopy but those are for the 2nd design T800 chassis. Unfortunately your donor was 1st design T800.
Alldata has Mitchell wiring diagrams. Not GM... and there are errors in some areas but definitely better than Haynes or Chilton.

Maybe my 2005 wiring diagrams could shed some light on it. What position on the fuse/relay block was that plugged into?