Restoring Rusty

[hatzie]

Looks like you did an AC delete.
I assume the 4.8 & 5.3 have a separate drive belt for the AC just like the 6.0L

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Looks like you did an AC delete.
I assume the 4.8 & 5.3 have a separate drive belt for the AC just like the 6.0L

Correct, my truck is a non AC from the factory, so yes I removed the compressor, so nice cause indeed it has it's own belt, super easy delete, so happy

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Correct, my truck is a non AC from the factory, so yes I removed the compressor, so nice cause indeed it has it's own belt, super easy delete, so happy

It's a challenge to use the Gen III AC compressor in stock dress due to frame clearance issues.

[Rich84]

Using electric fans simplifies the air intake system as well. There is plenty of room to use a stock air intake with the engine slid forward. Also, it gives you the room to use the A/C compressor in the stock location should you change your mind in the future.
My truck with the mechanical fan doesn't even have a shroud and it never gets over 197*

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Rich84

Using electric fans simplifies the air intake system as well. There is plenty of room to use a stock air intake with the engine slid forward. Also, it gives you the room to use the A/C compressor in the stock location should you change your mind in the future.
My truck with the mechanical fan doesn't even have a shroud and it never gets over 197*

thanks bro, but I am still intimidated by the electrical fans, all I hear is RELAYS, Relays, relays, LOL (of course I will be putting them in, in another six months, when I finally come around, ha ha)

[Gregski]

alright we hit our first snag, the stock 2001 GMC Sierra truck exhaust manifold on the passenger side hits the frame rail, (and no we are not going to cut the structural integral component of this future land speed record holder)

[Rich84]

Trailblazer manifolds fit great.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Rich84

Trailblazer manifolds fit great.

Thanks I appreciate that, do you happen to know if they had those ugly EGR ports? I think the trucks did away with EGR in 2002 or something like that.

[Gregski]

LS Lesson Learned #3.

some guys can pick up on this just by reading stuff on the InterWebs but I'm too dumb for that, so I didn't realize this until I went to plumb and wire it

the 1999-2007 LS truck engines that we use for LS Swaps do not monitor the Oil Pressure with the computer aka the PCM

let me say this again, the computer does not care what the Oil Pressure is on these engines, so a lot of guys unscrew the $55 dollar OEM oil pressure sending unit (located in the stock location on the top driver side back of the engine block) and screw in their aftermarket sending unit in it's place (using a metric to standard adapter of course) and just run their aftermarket gauge or their stock oil pressure gauge

* I am quickly realizing that the jump from our trusty distributed carbureted second generation SBC engines to these Third Generation LS based engines is not as intimidating as one might think, here are four examples:

1. they only use one computer for both the engine and transmission management not two

2. the computer does not manage oil pressure

3. the earlier ones 1999-02 are still drive by cable instead of drive by wire throttle pedals

4. they still use mechanical radiator fans - less complicated wiring

[hatzie]

Yep. The only purpose for the oil pressure sensor wiring to the PCM is to send the Class II serial data about oil pressure to the Class II Serial input on the instrument cluster module.
You will need to install a water temp sender for your analog gauge. I'd just remove the metric bung and drill and tap the head that doesn't host the PCM engine temp sender.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You will need to install a water temp sender for your analog gauge. I'd just remove the metric bung and drill and tap the head that doesn't host the PCM engine temp sender.

Yup, but I went the adapter route, not sure if that will significantly effect the accuracy, but it's good enuff for the girls we date!

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Yup, but I went the adapter route, not sure if that will significantly effect the accuracy, but it's good enuff for the girls we date!

As long as it doesn't shroud the end of the thermistor it shouldn't cause problems.
If the sensor is shrouded it'll be lazy and lag on faster temp changes.

[Rich84]

I brought my Temp. sender to a local machine shop and had it turned to size. He charged me $10 and it reads accurately.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Rich84

I brought my Temp. sender to a local machine shop and had it turned to size. He charged me $10 and it reads accurately.

Rich machine shops are a thing of the past here in Northern California, they used to be attached to most NAPA and CarQuest shops but now I think there may be one or two left and they are a nice drive across town, more gas than the $10 charge, plus no one will lift a wrench for $10 bucks here in Sacramento, California.

[Gregski]

just wanted to share my Early Bird Gets The Worm junk yard score, picked up two throttle cables, the longer one off of a 99 Silverado and the shorter one from a handsum '01 GMC Sierra, also grabbed a DAYCO 71990 lower radiator hose which happens to fit perfectamento (don't ask how I managed to loose the other hose clamp, it was there one second and gone into the abyss the next, ha ha) so happy

[Gregski]

so it's all plumbed up but the fuel system, as I am waiting on AN hose fittings from Summit to arrive

the transmission cooler hard lines were a royal P.I.A. and I may redo the last 18 inches in AN hoses to mate up to the radiator since I think I pinched one of 'em

[layinrocker65]

100% accurate ^^^

[hatzie]

This is why I have my South Bend 13x36, 1912 Monarch 14x42 Model A, and my 7x16 Little Green Chinese Monster. I bought the Model A for scrap value and rebuilt it using itself...
Not to mention the Burke and Milwaukee mills.

Self sufficiency is a wonderful thing. I can make and adapt all kinds of things with the propane furnace, welders, and the machine tools. My heirs will hate me... Especially when they try to move the 28" Cincinnati Shaper. The big Lathes and even the 6,000 lb horizontal milling machine are much lighter than that 9,800lb beast.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by hatzie

This is why I have my South Bend 13x36, 1912 Monarch 14x42 Model A, and my 7x16 Little Green Chinese Monster. I bought the Model A for scrap value and rebuilt it using itself...
Not to mention the Burke and Milwaukee mills.

Self sufficiency is a wonderful thing. I can make and adapt all kinds of things with the propane furnace, welders, and the machine tools. My heirs will hate me... Especially when they try to move the 28" Cincinnati Shaper. The big Lathes and even the 6,000 lb horizontal milling machine are much lighter than that 9,800lb beast.

are you looking for a house trained ROOMMATE, I'm excellent with the broom and dust pan!

[Gregski]

Fuel System... well, how hard could it be?

Sending Unit Instructions for the pump replacement are comical... and the diagram labels all the obvious parts and none of the nipple outlets and there's three of em, ha ha, hope I done did it right.

one's got to cut the hose barb ends off in order to slip on the compression AN fittings. Just take your time and try to cut the metal and not your hand.

two of the pedestals have to be cut off one under the 3/8ths supply line and the other under the 5/16ths return line. I went the extra mile and filed down any burrs, cause that's how we roll in NorCal baby!

[Gregski]

and the compressor fittings are on, let's hope and pray they don't leak

looks nais, real naise

[LeesTruk]

After seeing all this purty fuel supply stuff, I got to thinkin'. Did he convert to a returnless system? Had to go back and look at earlier pics, and I swear I see a pressure regulator on the left fuel rail, meaning you have an early GenIII engine with a supply/return fuel rail. I'm hoping I'm wrong...

[buffydores]

Why didn't you just buy a GM fuel module (jet pump) for this setup? I'm so thankful I was educated about them on this forum.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by buffydores

Why didn't you just buy a GM fuel module (jet pump) for this setup? I'm so thankful I was educated about them on this forum.

first I hear of it, please go on... share a pic or part number

[LeesTruk]

Keep the stuff you purchased, but you won't need that Corvette style filter/regulator. Just plumb your fuel rail return line directly to the fuel tank sending unit. For the filter, just get a Silverado style filter and modify it accordingly. If your truck has a charcoal cannister up front, you can use that to vent your gas tank (middle nipple on the sender) so you won't get any gas fumes in your garage. Let the cannister vent to the atmosphere. If you decide later on, to use an '87 gas tank w/antislosh pocket, be aware that the inlet nipple on the tank is 1 3/4" whereas your tank inlet is 1/1/4", so your fuel fill hose won't fit. Interestingly, the original hose starts out at 1 3/4" ,so all you have to do is just replace the hose with a hose from Gates. I've enclosed pic's;