The Official John Lee Jr Thread

[aggie91]

I know what you mean by use what you got. Done the hammer trick a time or two myself...

[Sharps40]

The medium SmasherWacker is the finest and most versitile automotive adjustment device ever devised.

[Sharps40]

Update on the u-joint inspection and lubrication. The primary clicking noise seems to have disappeared.....I gather it was dry joints. So, we'll mark them two joints about worn out and get ready to move on to the T5 and either overhaul the drive shaft during the shortening operation or just get a new one made with all new parts from Driveshaft Specialist in TX.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Update on the u-joint inspection and lubrication. The primary clicking noise seems to have disappeared.....I gather it was dry joints. So, we'll mark them two joints about worn out and get ready to move on to the T5 and either overhaul the drive shaft during the shortening operation or just get a new one made with all new parts from Driveshaft Specialist in TX.

I have not verified this yet, but I think a drive shaft from a Chevy Astro van is the correct length for a short bed with the T5 conversion. That would be an option to consider.

[Sharps40]

Thats what folks here have said but non in the dumps around here.....

Given the rebuild prices at the local 4wd shop, I'm guessin checkin it out to see if it's a good one is still gonna be astronomical.

I have one shop to check out within about 20 miles of the house and if that don't pan out, I'll order one brand new with a warranty custom made.

But its sure I ain't payin 300+ to check out/balance an almost 30 year old Astro shaft nor 500+travelin back and forth in fayettnam (50 miles one way) to shorten and balance my 50 year old shaft and put on a new yoke....not when new custom steel or aluminum with warranty can be had at the door in 5 days fur $350 to $450 and no greasy fingers.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Thats what folks here have said but non in the dumps around here.....

Given the rebuild prices at the local 4wd shop, I'm guessin checkin it out to see if it's a good one is still gonna be astronomical.

I have one shop to check out within about 20 miles of the house and if that don't pan out, I'll order one brand new with a warranty custom made.

But ist sure I ain't payin 300+ to check out/balance an almost 30 year old Astro shaft nor 500+travelin back and forth in fayettnam (50 miles one way) to shorten and balance my 50 year old shaft and put on a new yoke....not when new custom steel or aluminum with warranty can be had at the door in 5 days fur $350 to $450 and no greasy fingers.

Well shucks! I count eleven Astro vans here in Columbia, SC and the DS price is $25 each. You can return it for a credit within 30 days (no cash back) if you decide you don't want it. They have a Pull-a-part in Charlotte and Winston-Salem. I see your point. Not trying to spend your money.

[Sharps40]

Its a matter of time and cost....my time is worth more than it costs to go to the dumps and dig around for something that might work...got so many things doin that I might be into 3 different projects daily. Besides, its huntin season!!!!

So, we'll see, if I can't get to a good driveshaft man here very local, poop on it, I gotta go outsource......cause even a inxpensive junker driveshaft won't get fixed up close by or in a timely manner.

[Sharps40]

Don't know but it sure was a great day learning.....

Took the old fuzzy cheap 3x9 off my sisters Remlin Stalker (30-30) and replaced it with a nice crisp fixed 4x bushnell and spanky new and quite low weaver rings. She's quite happy, missed an opportunity last year, her first out, she says cause she was fiddling with the 3x9 and would I please fix it so it doesn't turn and tempt me and have me missin another opportunity. Well, its fixed best way I know how. And she's happy. Zeroed it with Fed 170s at 25 and the first shot at 100 was 2" high and well centered. So, she spent the afternoon banging away at the 10 and X rings at 100m and quite happy with the clarity and fiddlefree nature of the fixed 4X.

I discovered that I sure am quite and totally glad I missed that buck at 100 yards last month in the Low Country. Thought I flubbed it and I pretty much did....went out to shoot the 7x57 and was havin a wonderful time bangin the 200m and 300m steel and went hunting. Blooded the 45-70 the second morning with a perfect high shoulder shot, thru and thru...time to blood the Mauser. Wed evening, nearing last light and a perfect broadside lined up under that 7mm mauser......one each 140g Nosler Partition in the air and.....where the heck did the deer go? But he hot footed it outta there lickety split...no blood, no hair, dog couldn't even find it. So, sure am glad I went out to the range today...first 4 at 100m made a lovely well centered group on the target, 8" high......shot clean over that buck I did. Glad I missed clean and glad I missed it and glad I went back to check...had I assumed I simply pulled the shot, I'm sure I'da missed more at the end of this month when we go back. As it is, that good ol mauser is now sited about 1.25" high at 100 and good for a dead on hold at 200. I think if I hold steady and squeeze right, should be able to ventilate a deer or two with it here in Oct. It pays to check and be sure, assumptions woulda done me dead wrong later!

Check fired in the Marauder Marlin project. 150g Winchesters and iron sights at 25m. It hits about 1/2" high at that range with the rear in the lowest notch. Prolly could use a scooch higher front sight...I figured as much but for now....I wish I could post the photo of the group (can't find the camera cable),,,,cover most of it with a quarter....that's great for me and iron sights. But this here project as a wonderfully perfect bore too. But function was perfect and overall, its time to get the buttplate installed correctly and start the do over on the wood finish. Final step will be striking and reblue and it'll be done and ready for the woods. Gonna make a fine stalking rifle and the accuracy looks fine enough for 150m+ shooting.

Took out Ol Ugly, the once blue, once rusty, once foreign military sale now back in the USA, currently poorly nickel plated with a bent rear sight and loosie goosie slide Colt Officer MKIV Series 80 45 ACP. Ol Ugly for short. Tested his magazines converted from 6 rounds to 7 rounds with Wilson guts.....perfect. Tested the refit of the extractor...no more stuck/bent/crunched brass on the last shot.....tested the function of some of the most recent 1000 rds of 230g FMJ that were loaded with HP38 and perfect, a 6 oclock hold nets a fallen plate or moveing dueling post plate from 5m to 15m as long as I don't jerk it around. Happy, happy....runs so well and consistently....and nearly rust proof with some nickel on the outside and plenty of dirt inside but I still toy with stripping it down and makin it like new and blueing...since it left the factory blue but came home with nickel over rust pitting.......but Ol Ugly is so reliable like he is......I'm torn...but happy, he's reliable like only a Colt ever will be and like Sig and the rest aspire to be!

So now, drinkin part of my birthday present from my sister, Dornfelder wine....the only wine I ever tried and liked....no sour wine taste. In a frosty beer mug to be sure! And gotta fire up the grill tomorrow and test out my new stainless steel and camo grillin tools....High Speed! Lovin them tools!

Learned a lil bit bout leadin runnin deer with buckshot and my shotgun. Basically I didn't think much bout ballistics, lined er up and let er rip, centered up pretty nice....a deer chest broadside would catch 9 of 9 pellets at 25m with the full or modified choke. But, there is that pesky drop to think about.....shots are pretty consistently centered low and I can see a bit of lead on a runner and a bit of a spine height hold too. This could be quite interesting when we hunt with the dogs next month. As for them said 100 yard or 75 yards or even 50 yards......I'm not thinkin so much. With my rig, maybe 50 yards is gonna be the max range ad in some lead and maybe I oughta be thinkin less than that. But, and I quote...."With lead in the air and hope in the heart"....me and Dad are goin huntin!!! I'll bring extra flashlights......might be some trackin to do!

Wonderful day spent with family. Everybody should try it, I highly recommend.

[Sharps40]

Oh yeah, almost fogot.......17 days to the Low Country.

Now, I can go get another mug-o-wine!

[gofastnut]

Happy belated birthday! Interested in Dornfelder wine. I don't like wine either, because it tastes like soured grapes.
Liked hearin about the guns, and, good luck on the hunt.

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

Happy belated birthday! Interested in Dornfelder wine. I don't like wine either, because it tastes like soured grapes.
Liked hearin about the guns, and, good luck on the hunt.

Thank ya...Bday is 24 Oct. Sister was here a bit early so bought me a Bday dinner of Shreaded spiced beef roast with frijoles and rice and Pineapple Tamales and Flan with horchata to wash it down.

Wish I could get them highway gears off that Astro in there an runnin before 28 Oct but finances and time just ain't gonna allow it this early. So, one or two more trips out this year at 1965 RPMs and then for 2014 we are rollin into a new age of lower RPM at higher MPH and sorta like Back to the Future but in reverse????

Oh well, time fo notha mug-o-wine!

[Sharps40]

The wine is by P.J. Valckenberg

It's called Dornfelder

The region its from is Rheinhessen

Red, not too sweet, not too dry, not to sour, a hint of cream flavor. I don't get it too often, temptation ya know,,,,decent at room temp but get it cooled in the fridge and pound it like lemonaid or at least that famous ol Texican thirst quencher Rhondo, Slam One Down!!!!! Oh Wee...here's to Mug Numba 3!

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

So, one or two more trips out this year at 1965 RPMs and then for 2014 we are rollin into a new age of lower RPM at higher MPH and sorta like Back to the Future but in reverse????

Here are the RPMs you are running now compared to what you will be getting with the new 0.76 OD and the same 3.73 rear and 29" diameter tire 235/75/15. If you have a 28" tire (235/70/15), then it will be slightly higher RPMs for both columns. Either way, the engine should LOVE the lower RPMs.


Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2593 RPMs drops down to 1971 RPMs

65 MPH = 2809 RPMs drops down to 2135 RPMs

70 MPH = 3025 RPMs drops down to 2235 RPMs

[Sharps40]

Mine'll be a bit different, I'm running 225/70R/15, these are typically calculated at 27.4" tall but the numbers above are close...down from approaching 3000 to the 1900 to 2400 working rpm range which is where all 6s should be working...they are generally cammed/built to run strong in the 1500 to 2500 range. It'll be super nice...can't wait!!!!

[TJ's Chevy]

A good transmission would be a Richmond 6 speed, It's a close ratio 5 speed with an overdrive. Not like the saginaw 3 or 4 speed trans were its a 1800-2000 rpm drop from every shift!

[Sharps40]

No, no.....I already got the T5 on advice of the former GM engineer associated with the 194/250 family of engines. Its rebuilt, painted, beautiful and ready to go in soon as I can schedule the install.

[TJ's Chevy]

OH THAT'S RIGHT! I forgot! DuH! Reason I recommended the Richmond was it is a closer ratio then the tremic so you won't be floored in later gears to accelerate....It was my 2 cents...sorry I forgot you had the trans! But the Tremic will be great also!

[Sharps40]

Yep. And part of the cost of the trimec is a free gold plated clutch pedal, platinum shift rods and a beer dispenser shifter ball.....I hope!

Them dudes are way over salty. I priced a 56....it exceeded half the purchase price of John Lee!!!

I spose if I had a big block or a snappy 327, it'd be worth it...but its just a ol reliable sewing machine motor so nothing too fancy is needed....

Course now If I can lay my hands on that 77 c10 stepside my daughter just called me on that jus got traded in at the Chrysler dealiership...........

[Lugnutz65]

I've edited and copied my original post below because I made a small mistake.

I also added a second set of calculations using a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear. All of this assumes that the plastic speedo gear mounted inside the T5 is correctly calibrated for a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Here are the RPMs you would get with a 29" tire and a 3.73 rear.


Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2593 RPMs drops down to 1971 RPMs

65 MPH = 2809 RPMs drops down to 2135 RPMs

70 MPH = 3025 RPMs drops down to 2299 RPMs



Here are the numbers for the 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2744 RPMs drops down to 2086 RPMs

65 MPH = 2973 RPMs drops down to 2260 RPMs

70 MPH = 3202 RPMs drops down to 2433 RPMs

[Sharps40]

Yep, won't know on the speedo till the garman gives a readout on test ride number 1!

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

I've edited and copied my original post below because I made a small mistake.

I also added a second set of calculations using a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear. All of this assumes that the plastic speedo gear mounted inside the T5 is correctly calibrated for a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Here are the RPMs you would get with a 29" tire and a 3.73 rear.


Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2593 RPMs drops down to 1971 RPMs

65 MPH = 2809 RPMs drops down to 2135 RPMs

70 MPH = 3025 RPMs drops down to 2299 RPMs



Here are the numbers for the 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2744 RPMs drops down to 2086 RPMs

65 MPH = 2973 RPMs drops down to 2260 RPMs

70 MPH = 3202 RPMs drops down to 2433 RPMs

The second one is pretty much spot on from lookin at my tach while drivin.

[Sharps40]

Good day today....hunted in the morning. Caught the last half of the French Connection on Sundance at lunch. Changed the oil in John Lee.....had to beat the oil filter off with a hammer driving a screwdriver driving the filter counterclockwise since my filter strap wrench broke! But got it done. Noted the magnetic oil plug is pickin up fines.....I'm usin ZDDP but never had a magnetic plug before so I don't have a clue how much goo on a plug is normal. Sprayin off the carb and the rpm changed.....ohh, vacuum leak....thought it was the right rear carb bolt but it was the entire base gasket....got a bit soggy from the overflowing on shutdown and was suckin air/wouldn't stay sealed. New gasket cured it though, a spritz with carb cleaner and no change in idle speed.

I think the overflow problem is radiant heat. In the first two minutes of idling, my spanky new multimeter with temp indicator says the exhaust manifold reaches 280 degrees F. The air between the manifold and the bottom of the fuel bowl goes from ambient 60 degrees to 98 degrees in the same time. I'll get a temp read after parkin tomorrow after the run home...betcha that manifold is heatin up the bowl cause the bowl sits right over it. With some hot readings I can then stick in some kind of heat blanket and read the temps again/see if it makes a difference.

[TJ's Chevy]

Hmmm, never had a heating problem and I'm running headers and a water heating system!!!!

[TJ's Chevy]

Oooooh man! Same here! Man! You must have a Ford motor with a Chevy valve cover! AHAHAHAHA!!!! Well, sorry to here about all this! No how upsetting these can be!

[Sharps40]

Nah.....I gotta learn: "Don't be a Shade Tree Mechanic, Don't Bonk Yer Perfectly Good Motor with a Medium SmasherWacker."