The Official John Lee Jr Thread

[Sharps40]

The medium SmasherWacker is the finest and most versitile automotive adjustment device ever devised.

[Sharps40]

Update on the u-joint inspection and lubrication. The primary clicking noise seems to have disappeared.....I gather it was dry joints. So, we'll mark them two joints about worn out and get ready to move on to the T5 and either overhaul the drive shaft during the shortening operation or just get a new one made with all new parts from Driveshaft Specialist in TX.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Update on the u-joint inspection and lubrication. The primary clicking noise seems to have disappeared.....I gather it was dry joints. So, we'll mark them two joints about worn out and get ready to move on to the T5 and either overhaul the drive shaft during the shortening operation or just get a new one made with all new parts from Driveshaft Specialist in TX.

I have not verified this yet, but I think a drive shaft from a Chevy Astro van is the correct length for a short bed with the T5 conversion. That would be an option to consider.

[Sharps40]

Thats what folks here have said but non in the dumps around here.....

Given the rebuild prices at the local 4wd shop, I'm guessin checkin it out to see if it's a good one is still gonna be astronomical.

I have one shop to check out within about 20 miles of the house and if that don't pan out, I'll order one brand new with a warranty custom made.

But its sure I ain't payin 300+ to check out/balance an almost 30 year old Astro shaft nor 500+travelin back and forth in fayettnam (50 miles one way) to shorten and balance my 50 year old shaft and put on a new yoke....not when new custom steel or aluminum with warranty can be had at the door in 5 days fur $350 to $450 and no greasy fingers.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Thats what folks here have said but non in the dumps around here.....

Given the rebuild prices at the local 4wd shop, I'm guessin checkin it out to see if it's a good one is still gonna be astronomical.

I have one shop to check out within about 20 miles of the house and if that don't pan out, I'll order one brand new with a warranty custom made.

But ist sure I ain't payin 300+ to check out/balance an almost 30 year old Astro shaft nor 500+travelin back and forth in fayettnam (50 miles one way) to shorten and balance my 50 year old shaft and put on a new yoke....not when new custom steel or aluminum with warranty can be had at the door in 5 days fur $350 to $450 and no greasy fingers.

Well shucks! I count eleven Astro vans here in Columbia, SC and the DS price is $25 each. You can return it for a credit within 30 days (no cash back) if you decide you don't want it. They have a Pull-a-part in Charlotte and Winston-Salem. I see your point. Not trying to spend your money.

[Sharps40]

Its a matter of time and cost....my time is worth more than it costs to go to the dumps and dig around for something that might work...got so many things doin that I might be into 3 different projects daily. Besides, its huntin season!!!!

So, we'll see, if I can't get to a good driveshaft man here very local, poop on it, I gotta go outsource......cause even a inxpensive junker driveshaft won't get fixed up close by or in a timely manner.

[Sharps40]

Oh yeah, almost fogot.......17 days to the Low Country.

Now, I can go get another mug-o-wine!

[gofastnut]

Happy belated birthday! Interested in Dornfelder wine. I don't like wine either, because it tastes like soured grapes.
Liked hearin about the guns, and, good luck on the hunt.

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by gofastnut

Happy belated birthday! Interested in Dornfelder wine. I don't like wine either, because it tastes like soured grapes.
Liked hearin about the guns, and, good luck on the hunt.

Thank ya...Bday is 24 Oct. Sister was here a bit early so bought me a Bday dinner of Shreaded spiced beef roast with frijoles and rice and Pineapple Tamales and Flan with horchata to wash it down.

Wish I could get them highway gears off that Astro in there an runnin before 28 Oct but finances and time just ain't gonna allow it this early. So, one or two more trips out this year at 1965 RPMs and then for 2014 we are rollin into a new age of lower RPM at higher MPH and sorta like Back to the Future but in reverse????

Oh well, time fo notha mug-o-wine!

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

So, one or two more trips out this year at 1965 RPMs and then for 2014 we are rollin into a new age of lower RPM at higher MPH and sorta like Back to the Future but in reverse????

Here are the RPMs you are running now compared to what you will be getting with the new 0.76 OD and the same 3.73 rear and 29" diameter tire 235/75/15. If you have a 28" tire (235/70/15), then it will be slightly higher RPMs for both columns. Either way, the engine should LOVE the lower RPMs.


Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2593 RPMs drops down to 1971 RPMs

65 MPH = 2809 RPMs drops down to 2135 RPMs

70 MPH = 3025 RPMs drops down to 2235 RPMs

[Sharps40]

Mine'll be a bit different, I'm running 225/70R/15, these are typically calculated at 27.4" tall but the numbers above are close...down from approaching 3000 to the 1900 to 2400 working rpm range which is where all 6s should be working...they are generally cammed/built to run strong in the 1500 to 2500 range. It'll be super nice...can't wait!!!!

[TJ's Chevy]

A good transmission would be a Richmond 6 speed, It's a close ratio 5 speed with an overdrive. Not like the saginaw 3 or 4 speed trans were its a 1800-2000 rpm drop from every shift!

[Lugnutz65]

I've edited and copied my original post below because I made a small mistake.

I also added a second set of calculations using a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear. All of this assumes that the plastic speedo gear mounted inside the T5 is correctly calibrated for a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Here are the RPMs you would get with a 29" tire and a 3.73 rear.


Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2593 RPMs drops down to 1971 RPMs

65 MPH = 2809 RPMs drops down to 2135 RPMs

70 MPH = 3025 RPMs drops down to 2299 RPMs



Here are the numbers for the 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2744 RPMs drops down to 2086 RPMs

65 MPH = 2973 RPMs drops down to 2260 RPMs

70 MPH = 3202 RPMs drops down to 2433 RPMs

[Sharps40]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

I've edited and copied my original post below because I made a small mistake.

I also added a second set of calculations using a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear. All of this assumes that the plastic speedo gear mounted inside the T5 is correctly calibrated for a 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Here are the RPMs you would get with a 29" tire and a 3.73 rear.


Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2593 RPMs drops down to 1971 RPMs

65 MPH = 2809 RPMs drops down to 2135 RPMs

70 MPH = 3025 RPMs drops down to 2299 RPMs



Here are the numbers for the 27.4" tire and a 3.73 rear.

Final Ratio 1.0 ratio 0.76 ratio

60 PMH = 2744 RPMs drops down to 2086 RPMs

65 MPH = 2973 RPMs drops down to 2260 RPMs

70 MPH = 3202 RPMs drops down to 2433 RPMs

The second one is pretty much spot on from lookin at my tach while drivin.

[Sharps40]

The wine is by P.J. Valckenberg

It's called Dornfelder

The region its from is Rheinhessen

Red, not too sweet, not too dry, not to sour, a hint of cream flavor. I don't get it too often, temptation ya know,,,,decent at room temp but get it cooled in the fridge and pound it like lemonaid or at least that famous ol Texican thirst quencher Rhondo, Slam One Down!!!!! Oh Wee...here's to Mug Numba 3!

[Sharps40]

No, no.....I already got the T5 on advice of the former GM engineer associated with the 194/250 family of engines. Its rebuilt, painted, beautiful and ready to go in soon as I can schedule the install.

[TJ's Chevy]

OH THAT'S RIGHT! I forgot! DuH! Reason I recommended the Richmond was it is a closer ratio then the tremic so you won't be floored in later gears to accelerate....It was my 2 cents...sorry I forgot you had the trans! But the Tremic will be great also!

[Sharps40]

Yep. And part of the cost of the trimec is a free gold plated clutch pedal, platinum shift rods and a beer dispenser shifter ball.....I hope!

Them dudes are way over salty. I priced a 56....it exceeded half the purchase price of John Lee!!!

I spose if I had a big block or a snappy 327, it'd be worth it...but its just a ol reliable sewing machine motor so nothing too fancy is needed....

Course now If I can lay my hands on that 77 c10 stepside my daughter just called me on that jus got traded in at the Chrysler dealiership...........

[Sharps40]

Yep, won't know on the speedo till the garman gives a readout on test ride number 1!

[Sharps40]

Good day today....hunted in the morning. Caught the last half of the French Connection on Sundance at lunch. Changed the oil in John Lee.....had to beat the oil filter off with a hammer driving a screwdriver driving the filter counterclockwise since my filter strap wrench broke! But got it done. Noted the magnetic oil plug is pickin up fines.....I'm usin ZDDP but never had a magnetic plug before so I don't have a clue how much goo on a plug is normal. Sprayin off the carb and the rpm changed.....ohh, vacuum leak....thought it was the right rear carb bolt but it was the entire base gasket....got a bit soggy from the overflowing on shutdown and was suckin air/wouldn't stay sealed. New gasket cured it though, a spritz with carb cleaner and no change in idle speed.

I think the overflow problem is radiant heat. In the first two minutes of idling, my spanky new multimeter with temp indicator says the exhaust manifold reaches 280 degrees F. The air between the manifold and the bottom of the fuel bowl goes from ambient 60 degrees to 98 degrees in the same time. I'll get a temp read after parkin tomorrow after the run home...betcha that manifold is heatin up the bowl cause the bowl sits right over it. With some hot readings I can then stick in some kind of heat blanket and read the temps again/see if it makes a difference.

[TJ's Chevy]

Hmmm, never had a heating problem and I'm running headers and a water heating system!!!!

[Sharps40]

Nah.....I gotta learn: "Don't be a Shade Tree Mechanic, Don't Bonk Yer Perfectly Good Motor with a Medium SmasherWacker."

[Sharps40]

Stand by...replaced cap/rotor and carb base gasket. Retimed, no slip of balancer or gear and... No change. No power, significant miss, incredible top end clatter that comes and goes between 1000 and 3000 rpm.

No time like the present for a professional assessment....will have it towed tomorrow to one of two shops....One is a hot rod/paint body shop....other is a fine local shop that does racing and ain't afraid of any old vehicle and is a certified Jasper installer.......

Cross yer fingers. But, John Lee is down and out, bad sick....

[TJ's Chevy]

Did you check the compression? You might have a flat spot on the cam. Could be the carb also cause I have never had that issue. I have alot of popping, but all my compression is the same...so for me I think it is weak springs on mine. Your I am not sure. Tomorrow I'll give a friend of mine a call and see what he thinks....He's a 6 cylinder builder and racer. I think it might be a broken piston ring...but I haven't a clue on what clattering is! I feel stupid not knowing! But i'll call and get some info for ya and see if I can help.

[Sharps40]

Given the clatter I think its one of a few issues related to the top end. Wiped cam lobe, bent pushrod, burnt/loose/broken rocker arm or stud, bad valve, etc. Don't know. No sense in unbuttoning it at home as anything other than rockers is pretty much a pro shop job anyway. Might as well let a pro listen to it and advise.

Hadn't thought of piston ring....we'll see, towing tomorrow pm I hope. GoodWife making the arrangements.