S10 Swap how to

[ClevsChev]

Sorry, I meant the part you fabricated, did you just bolt it through the 1" tube or did you use any bushing or rubber in the pipe? Im just curious and trying to get all the info I can before I start mine. Very new to custom motor mounts.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by ClevsChev

Sorry, I meant the part you fabricated, did you just bolt it through the 1" tube or did you use any bushing or rubber in the pipe? Im just curious and trying to get all the info I can before I start mine. Very new to custom motor mounts.

nope, just bolt it through the tube. the shock is absorbed through the motor mounts

[joedoh]

hey here is a front shock tip for all the S10 frame guys. I was looking online at S10 specific drop shocks and one major site had an application guide showing they could be used on S10s dropped 3-5" (3" coil and 2 inch spindle), a dodge dakota dropped 3" (coils) and a 72-84 Mazda B2000 as OEM replacement. working backwards, that means that the stock shock for a 72-84 mazda truck is the right length for a 3" coil dropped S10.

I looked up shocks for the 79-84 mazda and Monroe, Gabriel, and KYB all make twin tube large bore gas charged shocks ranging in price from $20 each to $45 ea, which even the most expensive is $10 cheaper per shock than the more common brand name and they are almost all available in town (my town is medium size). I looked at two, a twin tube gabriel pro for $24ea and a monotube gabriel for $45ea. monotubes are lightyears better for handling on relatively smooth surfaces, twin tubes make more sense if the ride can get rougher, because monotubes have a separate gas chamber and dont fade, but twin tubes mix the gas and oil and on a particularly rough road will "skip" some of the bumps, saving you from constant rebound chatter.

anyway, I picked up a set of the pro Gabriels (part number 61504, reg $25ea and on sale $20ea) and installed them on my S10 framed truck with 3" coils, they fit well, and have excellent damping. I pulled them out to make sure they werent bottoming out and the dirt wipe mark on the shock shaft was still a couple inches shy of bottom.

the other ones I looked at were gabriel maxcontrol 77421 which are the monotube.

[99 to Life]

nice info. I'll have to dig up the ones I used on my bagged setup. Im actually doing another one soon, so I'll need to get some shocks again. I'll look into yours also. I know I used monroes but don't have the number on hand.

[1952ssr]

Wanted to put this info out there for all S10 swappers if someone hasn't already. If you are having issues with getting your trucks aligned here is the cheapest fix. My truck has 1" coils and 2" spindles, but I couldn't get the caster right using the Longacre racing bubble type tool (my truck tucks to much front wheel to use the standard alignment machines). These a-arms from speedway.com will fix you fellers up, order 2 right sides just flip for use on the left side.

part #91031133
$44.99 each

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by 1952ssr

Wanted to put this info out there for all S10 swappers if someone hasn't already. If you are having issues with getting your trucks aligned here is the cheapest fix. My truck has 1" coils and 2" spindles, but I couldn't get the caster right using the Longacre racing bubble type tool (my truck tucks to much front wheel to use the standard alignment machines). These a-arms from speedway.com will fix you fellers up, order 2 right sides just flip for use on the left side.

part #91031133
$44.99 each

So, why do these fix the problem?

As far as the to much tuck for the alignment machine...99 posted this photo of his truck getting aligned. These must be a new style alignment head which should get around the wheel tuck problem.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=294

[Atommik]

I've got a 1951 Chev on a 1991 s10 frame with a 1968 327 sbc. I'm going to replace the factory steering "rag joint" with a smaller outside diameter universal joint because of clearance issues with my power steering pump. The info I could find says the steering gear end is a 3/4 inch shaft with 30 splines. That's what I ordered from Speedway. Sound correct? I haven't had a chance to match it up yet...

[joedoh]

yep, thats what I use.

[Atommik]

Thanks, hope to get to it tomorrow!

[Mains52]

Have any of you with ls swaps used the stock ls mounts and welded them to the s10 frame. I have an 02 5.3 out of a Tahoe and it came with the motor mounts on it couldn't I just weld them to the frame? Sorry if it is a dumb question.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Mains52

Have any of you with ls swaps used the stock ls mounts and welded them to the s10 frame. I have an 02 5.3 out of a Tahoe and it came with the motor mounts on it couldn't I just weld them to the frame? Sorry if it is a dumb question.

the tahoe mounts will probably make the motor sit too high in the s10 chassis. which isnt really a big deal except the trans/driveshaft tunnel you would need. plenty of room for exhaust and accessories though

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by Mains52

Have any of you with ls swaps used the stock ls mounts and welded them to the s10 frame. I have an 02 5.3 out of a Tahoe and it came with the motor mounts on it couldn't I just weld them to the frame? Sorry if it is a dumb question.

I had the mounts on my 5.3 too, but I couldn't find a good way to make them work. Especially with where they landed in relation to the front cross member.

I ended up going with these and cutting most of the frame side off. Also, it's definitely been mentioned here, but offsetting slightly to the passenger's side will make the steering much easier to set up. And I was able to use my stock manifolds this way too.

[99 to Life]

here is what I did. though not used on s10 frame, same concept. If you have your full engine mount you can use the part that bolts to the engine like I did, or.... just make a whole new one from scratch. I had to weld a plate on the back side of the mount that bolts to the engine. You can see in pic. I then ordered 4 link bushings from thorbros off ebay. 30$ invested or so. I used 2.5" tubing I believe for my uprights. So for a lil time and very little money you can make them to whatever size you'd need.

You gotta a few options as far as mounts go and the height you desire to put the engine. I mounted mine higher to have better header clearance and oil pan clearance. So if you mount your LS low, you will most likely need to invest in the proper oil pan, costing more money. If you go higher, you'll have more work in a larger tunnel and possibly tunneling the cab for driveshaft.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by joedoh

the tahoe mounts will probably make the motor sit too high in the s10 chassis. which isnt really a big deal except the trans/driveshaft tunnel you would need. plenty of room for exhaust and accessories though

Well I have already cut a spot for a tunnel due to a lot of project threads telling me I needed to so that should be fine. I am just trying to get everything buttoned up so I can start finishing the frame work and get this thing closer to the road its driving me nuts. I just want to drive it.

Thank all of you for the help.

[99 to Life]

gotta be patient man, don't worry about what others are telling you to do. Don't tunnel unless you have to, or set your body on and engine and trans in, see your clearance. This stuff takes time and can get frustrating. but things like body mounts engine mounts, getting body lined up on frame, ride height etc. its really more in the builder doing it and seeing for themselves that it is what you want. There isn't a rule book to follow on most of it. This is a great site for info.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

gotta be patient man, don't worry about what others are telling you to do. Don't tunnel unless you have to, or set your body on and engine and trans in, see your clearance. This stuff takes time and can get frustrating. but things like body mounts engine mounts, getting body lined up on frame, ride height etc. its really more in the builder doing it and seeing for themselves that it is what you want. There isn't a rule book to follow on most of it. This is a great site for info.

Right on thanks man. I haven't even had the truck a year yet. I am guilty of being impatient most of the time. I actually am taking this project slow but the dreams of driving it just get me more and more pumped on even building it. I am trying to take pics and add them to my build thread to. I think keeping my truck the long bed 3600 is sort of few and far between on here so I think its helping set it apart.
Thanks Again

[99 to Life]

1-2 years to do a truck is normal for most us on a budget and time restraints. Sure you can get one done in 1-3 months but thats working non stop and having alot of funds. The longbed should be cool. Coach on here has a bagged LB and its cool. Different is good. you'll get there trust me, don't stress.

[reaper71]

I speak from experience when it comes to being patient
My personal truck (project orangepeel) has been in the works for 6 yrs or so I build cars/trucks for a living for other people so I do not have the shop space to fit another one in. Like 99 said just relax and keep plugging along!

Mark

[Mains52]

Ok fellas I know you're tired of me asking questions but does anyone have any measurements of how tall they made their custom ls mounts. I got the tubing and the 4 link bushings to copy the ones I think 99 made but his were on a stock frame. I was trying to finish mocking up the placement last night and couldn't find a spot where the stock exhaust manifold on the drivers side wasn't hitting the frame. So suggestions on height for mounts and headers would be very much appreciated. Thanks

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by Mains52

Ok fellas I know you're tired of me asking questions but does anyone have any measurements of how tall they made their custom ls mounts. I got the tubing and the 4 link bushings to copy the ones I think 99 made but his were on a stock frame. I was trying to finish mocking up the placement last night and couldn't find a spot where the stock exhaust manifold on the drivers side wasn't hitting the frame. So suggestions on height for mounts and headers would be very much appreciated. Thanks

I took pics of mine the other day. I did push my motor a little to the passengers side. Stock SUV manifolds clear frame and steering shaft.

[skymangs]

just lettin' ya'll know i'm still alive and kickin'. long road to recovery, but i am still hoping to re-open my shop this fall

[99 to Life]

good deal chris, looking forward to it. my friend I'm doing a truck for was nearly killed a couple years ago from a fire at his work. He is still recovering, said he'd have surgeries for many many years to come. I'm sure thinking about getting your shop back is pretty therapeutic.

[Cautrell05]

Originally Posted by skymangs

just lettin' ya'll know i'm still alive and kickin'. long road to recovery, but i am still hoping to re-open my shop this fall

Glad to hear you are getting better. Always enjoy your posts.

Nick

[mongocanfly]

That's great to hear skymangs..

[oldman3]

Chris, great to hear your still doing good. Prayers for you and your shop...Jim