Dropmember in a 69 C10

[DM310]

Originally Posted by BigShoe24

I just ordered a X member from Porterbuilt!!! I cant wait untill it gets here, I will try to post some pics as soon as it gets here. My build thread is gone so I guess I'll try to post them were there are already some pics of another install.

Is this yours? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=235617

[BigShoe24]

DM310, yeah sure is. I looked forever and couldn't find it. I really appreciate it.

[Scott68-93-97]

This crossmember is awesome along with some really good craftsmanship (hard to find these days) Also for the non fabricator it gives them something reliable that wont break, Ive been in the truck seen for a while in fact I used to have my own shop until some things fell through with a bad business partner and the hacked up stuff Ive seen makes me wonder how somethings dont fall apart above 10 mph. This is quality. For me the time it saves in fab and engineering is well worth the money plus this thing solves two problems I already have, one someone installed some aftermarket tube a arms on my truck around 8 years before I purchased it and the thing is so low the a arms bind on the mount for the lowers that replaced the crossshaft and u bolts, two is I installed a GMPP fuel pump (because it was laying around un used) and it was so big I had to cut the motor mount mounting plates to clear the pump and the inlet fitting. Again this thing is awesome keep up the goood work and sorry for ranting on!!!

[BigTruckDriver]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Different is good!... isn't that what Arby's said?

Are these photos with a stock rear suspension and a regular c-notch??? I like the stance and also did not want to cut into the bed. Do you have a pic at ride height.

[culookn]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

That highlights all the minor design changes that have been made.

I will be doing a Dropmember/KP six-link with watt's link combo on a 78 coming up here shortly... I will be posting install pics once completed.

I should also have some pics of the C4 back-half and the full C4 chassis for the 63-72 trucks posted up within the next week.

your work is amazing. cant wait to see the write up

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

Are these photos with a stock rear suspension and a regular c-notch??? I like the stance and also did not want to cut into the bed. Do you have a pic at ride height.

Big Truck-

I am assuming you are referring to the 63 Panel? It has factory trailing arms and a home-made C-notch out of tube or pipe (I didn't do the work on the rear). The floor has not been modified. As for pics at ride-height... I don't think I have any . For some reason I don't sem to take too many pics at ride height... probably oughta change that! I can se if I can get some in the next short while.

[PBFAB.COM]

Thanks for all the compliments guys. I take extreme pride in all my work, and do my best on every piece I touch.

[gringoloco]

I've searched around and can't seem to find what exactly must be done to the stock control arms when used with a dropmember. I know slight clearancing and some way to mount the bag, just looking for specifics.

PB- do you have a pic or a more detailed explanation of what is involved? Anyone else run into this yet?

btw- my truck is a '70 with an '84 crossmember/suspension if that makes any difference. I seem to remember something about the '73-up arms not needing clearancing...

Thanks -Chris

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I've searched around and can't seem to find what exactly must be done to the stock control arms when used with a dropmember. I know slight clearancing and some way to mount the bag, just looking for specifics.

PB- do you have a pic or a more detailed explanation of what is involved? Anyone else run into this yet?

btw- my truck is a '70 with an '84 crossmember/suspension if that makes any difference. I seem to remember something about the '73-up arms not needing clearancing...

Thanks -Chris

Chris-

I have a minor design change coming in the near future that will eliminate any clearance issues with the 63-72 lower control arms. I will see if I can get a pic within the next few days of the current "clearance issues" on the factory arms. Until then, I will do my best to explain the area of concern... The 63-72 factory lower arm design has a large u shape, at the edge where the cross-shaft mounts through it. If you look closely at the current lower control arm mounts on the dropmember, it is a large billet block, and very square. The lower edge of this mount will contact the back U portion of the lower control arm next to where the cross-shaft slides through. It is necessary to trim the lower control arm at this spot to allow it to swing through its range of travel without contacting the billet mounting block. The 73-87 lower control arms do not have this large arc, but are more squared off at the edges where the cross-shaft slides through, and thus do not need any trimming. The other mod, for all factory lower control arms, is going to be a plate for the lower bag mount or offset cup. The bag center will move outboard 1.25" from the factory crossmember location.

Clear as mud???

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Clear as mud???

Crystal. Do you offer the offset cups as an add-on? How much?

Thanks a lot -Chris

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Options

Rack and Pinion (Mustang II rack and pinion 1979-1993)
Manual Mustang II rack and pinion $230 (Unisteer part#8000440)
Power Mustang II rack and pinion $250 (Unisteer part#8010020)

Any problems with using these?

8000450 Manual quick ratio
8010080 Power quick ratio

They are 2.25 turn lock-to-lock compared to 3 on the others.

[Sweet 85 C10]

Ok! Been reading thi topic on and off and I must say I love the design of the dropmember, its probably one of the best designs ive ever seen as far as suspension mods are concerned. Theres a question that id like to see if anyone has answers to. I am currently working on the frame of my truck and am going to put in the step notch and rear 6 link (Cantilever, Watts Link, 4 link side bars) now do I need to notch where the drive shaft goes under the truck from the transmission. I see the pic of the one where the driveshaft tunnel was notched (meaning right underneath the back of the cab) Do I need to do this if im running the front Drop Member setup as well? Any help would be great!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Any problems with using these?

8000450 Manual quick ratio
8010080 Power quick ratio

They are 2.25 turn lock-to-lock compared to 3 on the others.

I inquired about the quick ratio units, but was told that very few of their customers were happy with them... something about being too quick? Didn't make a whole lot of sense to me, but then again I haven't tried one out.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Sweet 85 C10

Ok! Been reading thi topic on and off and I must say I love the design of the dropmember, its probably one of the best designs ive ever seen as far as suspension mods are concerned. Theres a question that id like to see if anyone has answers to. I am currently working on the frame of my truck and am going to put in the step notch and rear 6 link (Cantilever, Watts Link, 4 link side bars) now do I need to notch where the drive shaft goes under the truck from the transmission. I see the pic of the one where the driveshaft tunnel was notched (meaning right underneath the back of the cab) Do I need to do this if im running the front Drop Member setup as well? Any help would be great!

Here's the list of floor mods when laying frame, front and back, with a Dropmember up front (when running a BBC motor, there will be some "extra trimming" at the firewall/trans tunnel pinch weld):

63-66 C-10... No driveshaft tunneling in stock cab floor required.

67-72 C-10... Driveshaft tunneling in stock cab floor is required. It is also necessary to run the "large hump" bolt-in trans cover.

73-87 C-10... No driveshaft tunneling in stock cab floor required.

[BigShoe24]

"large hump" How do we know if we have one, is it a noticable difference? Also, were can you find one? Thanks Nathan

[gringoloco]

Tall hump is bolt-in. Low hump is pressed as part of the floor. They came on 4wd and 2wd w/ the TH400 tranny. I got mine off the parts board here.

[edflores]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

.

73-87 C-10... No driveshaft tunneling in stock cab floor required.

what about for a 73-87 2wd blazer?

[Hard Luck]

More questions. I tried to get all that I could but there is a lot of 'stuff' in this 24 pages.

I would like to lower but no adjust and no laying frame. I have a 67 3/4 2wd. I want to keep my I6 and my 215/85/16's, about 32". I really want to upgrade to a rack and if handles better, all the better.

Is your kit for me? Can I use stock spindles(not dropped, they do not seem to make them for the 8 lugs) and coils? From what I read this will net me a 3" drop. Or cut coils. I guess I could go with coilovers if needed, I am not in love with the stock spings. I bet you could sell me the right coilovers with your kit. Can I use the 3/4 ton spindles with the C4 kit? Did I see that this is a Mustang rack? If it is, is there something stronger, like a newer pickup rack? Can I fit my 250 back in? I want to go to a 700r4 which is longer and may need a diffrent crossmember anyway, so this might work. I am only looking at removing a few leafs and doing a shackle flip in the rear (my guess is about 4"-6" lower) Thanks.

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by Hard Luck

More questions. I tried to get all that I could but there is a lot of 'stuff' in this 24 pages.

I would like to lower but no adjust and no laying frame. I have a 67 3/4 2wd. I want to keep my I6 and my 215/85/16's, about 32". I really want to upgrade to a rack and if handles better, all the better.

Is your kit for me? Can I use stock spindles(not dropped, they do not seem to make them for the 8 lugs) and coils? Or cut coils. Did I see that this is a Mustang rack? If it is, is there something stronger, like a newer pickup rack? Can I fit my 250 back in? I want to go to a 700r4 which is longer and may need a diffrent crossmember anyway, so this might work. I am only looking at removing a few leafs and doing a shackle flip in the rear (my guess is about 4"-6" lower) Thanks.

HL,

I'm in a similar situation as you (1972 C20 Burb 3/4-ton 2WD).

There might be a way to use the 8-Lug spindles but one of the things I found out early on is that there are very few options for 8-lug wheels....at least not one's I liked the looks of.

Out back, the 3/4-Ton Coils (or leafs) can be replaced with an airbag with enough load carrying capability to still tow or haul a load safely. The only concern I was still struggling with was going from a full-floater axle (mine's got an Eaton) to a semi-float axle (12-Bolt) from a safety perspective. I don't like the idea of losing the whole wheel if a shaft breaks, especially when towing.....but I'm pretty sure that they sell kits with retainers to hold the axleshafts in place on a 12 bolt.

In any case, I'm sure that the steering thing can be addressed. I was concerned about using a rack-and-pinion setup with a heavy big block, but was assured that there is a rack that can do it safely.....maybe the C4 one? I forget too, the answer is buried somewhere up in this thread.

[watahyahknow]

i asked the guys from flaming river about that once they said they couldnt garantee there setup would work on a one ton dualy maiby 3/4 ton is borderline .
i would actually be a happy camper if there was a rack and pinion steering available for the one ton .
we have a l;ot of corners here in the netherlands and a yearly aproval system for cars and trucks that would force me to chainge balljoints every year because the endplay is too big , the rack and pinion would make it steer better and its designed with tighter tollerances too

[Lated]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Here's the list of floor mods when laying frame, front and back, with a Dropmember up front (when running a BBC motor, there will be some "extra trimming" at the firewall/trans tunnel pinch weld):

63-66 C-10... No driveshaft tunneling in stock cab floor required.

67-72 C-10... Driveshaft tunneling in stock cab floor is required. It is also necessary to run the "large hump" bolt-in trans cover.

73-87 C-10... No driveshaft tunneling in stock cab floor required.

So with a 70 that does not lay frame are the mods to the cab floor still necessary? Any update on a coil spring option? I've finally saved up almost enough to get a dropmember as long as I don't have to buy a bag suspension too.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Lated

So with a 70 that does not lay frame are the mods to the cab floor still necessary? Any update on a coil spring option? I've finally saved up almost enough to get a dropmember as long as I don't have to buy a bag suspension too.

The cab floor on the 67-72 needs to be clearanced when combining a one-piece driveshaft with a rear suspension that lays frame. If going with a two-piece driveshaft the cab floor cutting should be able to be greatly minimized and possibly eliminated.

In your application what will your rear height be at "ride height"? If it's level with, or slightly higher than the front I don't see the need to cut the cab floor (possibly some trimming on the lower rear cab section...it hangs down a couple inches lower than the floor in the back). As far as a coil spring option...it doesn't look like it will be happening. I would recommend bags with a schrader valve and a set ride height. We've set several up that way with good results... besides, it leaves the option to add an air system at a later point.

[fastbagged68]

Porterbuilt, have you done a dropmember with coilovers or is the c4 the only one that can run them? Are you planning on making your own control arms for the dropmember?

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by fastbagged68

...Are you planning on making your own control arms for the dropmember?

Not trying to speak for Nathan, but I think he already answered this "somewhere". I believe his response was "why?". ART Has done a great job of spending lots of money to R&R the Strong Arms. No need to reinvent them when he has many other Dropmember applications in the works.

[fastbagged68]

I was talking about for coilover or shockwaves, instead of running c4 parts. ART does not make arms for shockwaves for our trucks.