S10 Swap how to

[joedoh]

ouch! sorry to hear that!

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Thanks, it's been a rough couple of years.my wife decided that she didn't want to take care of me for rest of my life, so she filed for divorce, and she's trying to be very greedy.

Damn, sorry to hear this Chris, prayers that things start going your way...Jim

[gigamanx]

Hey skymangs. I did the muriatic acid dip as you suggested for the frame rails but it seems there is still a slippery coating of some kind on the metal. I'm wondering if I diluted the acid too much in water before applying. The container says 120z per gallon of water. Also, there is a bit of surface rust on the rails; am I ok to wire wheel that down to metal before I do the acid part or will that push the wax into the pores?

Thanks!

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Hey skymangs. I did the muriatic acid dip as you suggested for the frame rails but it seems there is still a slippery coating of some kind on the metal. I'm wondering if I diluted the acid too much in water before applying. The container says 120z per gallon of water. Also, there is a bit of surface rust on the rails; am I ok to wire wheel that down to metal before I do the acid part or will that push the wax into the pores?

Thanks!

It will push the wax into the pores. I never dilute the acid, I just apply the acid directly to the frame.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by skymangs

It will push the wax into the pores. I never dilute the acid, I just apply the acid directly to the frame.

Tried your suggestion. I must be doing something wrong. I apply the muriatic acid with a toothbrush so its localized. Seems like its working, but there is still rust and patches of black (I'm assuming that's the wax) I've tried a couple of times and the best result I ended up getting so far is a light wire wheel to get the rust off then hit it with muriatic acid. I dissolve the acid with ammonia to neutralize it. I'm working on little patches to figure out the right combination.

Still not happy with the spotty results I'm getting. Maybe I bought the wrong stuff?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-Green...9-538a2e6cad36

You can see in the pic. The middle section had naval jelly for 30 min then wire brush then muriatic acid then ammonia. Seemed to get pretty clean after all that. The other two sections had muriatic acid only as well as the side of the frame. It didn't seem to get through the rust very well.

[b-mac]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Tried your suggestion. I must be doing something wrong. I apply the muriatic acid with a toothbrush so its localized. Seems like its working, but there is still rust and patches of black (I'm assuming that's the wax) I've tried a couple of times and the best result I ended up getting so far is a light wire wheel to get the rust off then hit it with muriatic acid. I dissolve the acid with ammonia to neutralize it. I'm working on little patches to figure out the right combination.

Still not happy with the spotty results I'm getting. Maybe I bought the wrong stuff?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jasco-Green...9-538a2e6cad36

You can see in the pic. The middle section had naval jelly for 30 min then wire brush then muriatic acid then ammonia. Seemed to get pretty clean after all that. The other two sections had muriatic acid only as well as the side of the frame. It didn't seem to get through the rust very well.

I'm interested in this answer as well. I never had a ton of luck with the muriatic acid. I use a combination of wire wheels, sanding discs, and flap wheels until it's as clean as I think it's going to get, then follow that with phosphoric acid...let that sit for 20-30 min (keep it wet), then wipe it off. Seemed to weld OK.

[skymangs]

That is the right stuff all right. I never had any difficulty with it, I just applied the muriatic acid then the ammonia. The water after the ammonia to dilute it. Then I am free to weld the cab mounts on. I have never had all this trouble. Maybe it's not perfect, I don't know.

[OutlawDrifter]

On the first couple of pages it is suggested to use a 32" column, would a 33" column be too much? Or can I get away with that?

I've found one I like, but it's the extra inch.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

On the first couple of pages it is suggested to use a 32" column, would a 33" column be too much? Or can I get away with that?

I've found one I like, but it's the extra inch.

just make sure you fit behind the wheel before you make it permanent. these trucks dont have a lot of room with the stock seat and still are tight (to the steering wheel) with a late model truck seat.

[99 to Life]

I couldn't see any issues with 1" longer column.

[tlorber]

Shock absorber question-Does anyone here have input/preference for S10 shocks? I've got 2" drop spindles in front and 3" lowering blocks in the rear, so as I understand it I preserve the original dimensions for shock length. I'd like to at least consider air adjustables for the rears in case I carry a heavy load, but handling is more of a priority.

Thanks for any input.

[Speedysdad]

I am building my first truck using this website as direction. I don't want to use the in take fuel pump. I can't use a mechanical, so I need something like the rotary vane. Reading the reviews for fuel pumps on Summit/Jegs/Speedway they all are loud and unreliable. I need opinions from those that have a success story

[99 to Life]

I used a carter rotary vane from summit, had it running and I doubt you'd ever hear it even at idle. Yet to have the truck back together to verify all that. The nice thing about the rotary vane is easy to install, cheap and from what I read reliable. It was maybe 50$ or something.

[99 to Life]

SHOCK answer, I was enlightened by joedoh on the Belltech drop shocks. Check them out on summit.

[tlorber]

Thanks, 99. I found those yesterday, and I'll probably order up a set today. Tire Rack seems to be the place.

[skymangs]

i use stock monroe's up front with drop spindles and i can think of no reason to not use air shocks in the rear.
i don't recommend using stock manifolds for that exact reason. any shorty header will work, or if you can find them, trailblazer SS.
and he's right, i've been running a Carter rotory vane in my son's 48 for 5+ years.

[RedFoot]

On the 1950/s-10 frame swap. Has anyone done a in frame master cylinder/power booster pedal assembly ? Instead of on the firewall ? Similar to what they used in the early 50s. If so what named brand kit did you use that fit the s-10 frame.. No reason to use in frame , other then trying to cleanup and smooth the firewall.

[ramzbusa]

Had a question guys. My 50 chevy has nothing in the engine bay nor the inside of the cab. I only have the steering column of a 93 s10. It sits on a 94 s10 frame. Do you guys recommend i buy a running vehicle with the engine/trans combo i want and use everything and anything i can from that vehicle? (Seat, driveshaft, trans oil cooler, brake booster...) Or should i just buy the engine/trans pullout and then get the other stuff from a junk yard as i need it? Want to see what route would cause me less headaches. Thanks in advance!

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by ramzbusa

Had a question guys. My 50 chevy has nothing in the engine bay nor the inside of the cab. I only have the steering column of a 93 s10. It sits on a 94 s10 frame. Do you guys recommend i buy a running vehicle with the engine/trans combo i want and use everything and anything i can from that vehicle? (Seat, driveshaft, trans oil cooler, brake booster...) Or should i just buy the engine/trans pullout and then get the other stuff from a junk yard as i need it? Want to see what route would cause me less headaches. Thanks in advance!

I'd say it depends on what your ultimate goal is for your truck. I just tore down my S10 this year and plan to put a V8 engine in it. What's left of the S10? Suspension, steering box and arms, frame, brakes. That's it. I had to get a wiring harness, I chose to get a steering column because a $180 craigslist one looks way better than the stock S10 in an old truck. Ultimately, I'd say there is very little of the S10 still left. Now, part of that reason is because of the engine change, so I didn't need the wiring harness anymore. I also couldn't fit my existing transmission, so I had to source on of those too.

(I do have a 2.8L v6, wiring harness, and matching transmission if you can find a way to ship it to Texas )

If you're already rolling on an S10 chassis with suspension, steering, and brakes, there isn't much value in tearing apart another one unless the plan is to drive with the V6 engine and trans it comes with. If your dreams are for an LS swap with a 4L60E or similar transmission, then an engine and transmission pull with a new wiring harness makes much more sense, IMO.

I am on truck 1 of 1, there are others who have done a bunch of these builds. I believe I asked the seat question before and the S10 seat doesn't fit the Chevy 3100 cab.

[skymangs]

i did an under floor master on my 49 (in my sig), but i didn't use a kit, i built my own.
as for the 50, i'd buy a nice 5.3 takeout with a 2wd trans, wire harness, and computer. then sorce everything else. gm g bodies make a good doner.

[Nchristi]

I'm currently working on my s10 swap. I've got a 53 gmc that I'm putting on an s10 frame. I purchased a zr2 rear end, a chevy 2500, a 98 blazer for parts. My question is will the zr2 rear end work. I've heard some say it will an some say it won't. I was on the ad-engineering website and they said the zr2 will not work. Is this just for their kit? Also I'm wanting to know what wheel and tire sizes for this setup including offset and back spacing for an 18" wheel. I plan on purchasing 2" drop spindles and 3" blocks for the rear. Thanks
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[99 to Life]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...448842&page=15

check out daverods build, uses a zr2 rear. I'm about to do the same thing.

[Nchristi]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...448842&page=15

check out daverods build, uses a zr2 rear. I'm about to do the same thing.

Thanks for that link. I think it'll work since I don't plan on using bags in he read. If anyone has the zr2 rear with blocks I'd like to hear what type of wheels / tires you're running with offset / back spacing
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[tlorber]

Nchristi,

My rear tire size is 255/50/17. I don't remember the wheel offset, but I don't think there is any. My rear axle is from a '70 Chevelle, which is around 61.5" from mounting surface to mounting surface. I did not want to tub my bed, which is why I used such a wide axle. My tires just barely clear the bedside (by like 1/4") so I will probably kick them out about 1" or so with spacers. I have to wait until I put the rear fenders back on to determine clearance, but those 255 tires will be a pretty tight fit between the bed and fender.

[skymangs]

as far as the manifolds go, I never use the stock manifolds on an LS swap, for that very reason. any cheap blocks hugger will do.