Loadmaster '47 COE

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so I have been making a little progress on 2 projects: On the speaker panel project I have mounted the grill using 2 small hinges and a piece of nylon strap I cut from an old folding chair bag. I also added a magnet I pulled off the fridge to hold it closed. Works great and cleans things up a bit. I'm also back on the engine compressor mount project. Working on building the mount. It will all fit but I will need to add a smooth pulley in place of the groved tensioner pulley to keep the belt from rubbing the lower radiator hose. I will need to mill 1 ear down due to the mounting leg of the compressor mount. I will also need to support the plate from below. I think I can use the alternator mounting tabs as pick up points for the lower legs. Of course I will also need a longer belt.
Rob

[BlueJeep]

I realize I'm late on the draw here, but here you go:

https://goatbuilt.com/shop/products/...assenger-side/

[Advanced Design]

The box behind the speaker grill looks good. Did you weld it in Rob?

[47 Fasttoys]

Thanks for the thought Bluejeep, that would have worked except mine had to be mounted horizontal because of the floor of the cab. The top of the compressor in my case will be about the mid-pulley point of the unit shown. For the price that would have been a bargain compared to the hours I have invested in this design.
Hey AD, no for the speaker grill it is held in by rivets, I could not use screws due to the box mount flange. The box is held in place by 3 screws and 1 rivet.
Rob

[lower50's]

Your speaker panel cover looks great. No one will ever know anything is behind it.

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so I now have a working EDC. I had to make some adjustments on the mount to get the belt to align. Speaking of belt, as it turns out I can use the belt I took off to drive everything except the PS pump so now I have a spare for emergencies. I was able to reuse the idler pulley I removed during the alternator relocation and mount it to the modified tensioner which now holds the pulley to the inside and is fixed in position. I been testing the system for about 200 miles now and except for a small leak in a fitting somewhere on the tank side all is well. For power I can go from 0 to 130 PSI in about 1 minute at idle and cut that time down to under 30 seconds at around 1500 RPM. I now have the system on a toggle switch but I think I will switch to automatic control in the future. Total cost for the addition of the compressor to the existing bag system $237.
Rob

[Palf70Step]

Kewl! Glad it is working out.

[Chance48]

It's all gorgeous Rob!! I really, really wished I didn't have these electric compressors here now.....this idea is in my arsenal for a future build no doubt. I love learning.

Chance

[joedoh]

an EDC will change your life, seriously!

a word or two of advice:

run a check valve between the compressor and the tank, or it will bleed back through the compressor. plus its just good practice.

run a stainless leader hose off the compressor and a high pressure water/particulate trap. EDC speed comes at a price, heat, and you will melt plastic line without some buffer for the heat like the leader hose. for the trap, some EDC will have oil blowby and the high heat of the compressed output can produce a lot of water in condensation.

and I did all my filling at idle, and the edc belt was always a bit chirpy, mostly because of the serious horsepower drain.

[lower50's]

That looks very nice. For a pressure switch use on of these. It is a pressure switch from a home compressor, they are about $35. I have had one in my Jeep for 18 years. Just wire it inline from switch to compressor.

[Chance48]

All very good points...great info here, thanks

Chance

[47 Fasttoys]

Maybe something like this? Using the home compressor switch is a good idea.
Rob

[joedoh]

yep just like that!

dont forget a leader hose off the compressor, that synflex will melt in a second!

[Luther Grimace]

Great build!

[99 to Life]

nice work rob, I'm more of an after tank trap believer. But both would be best. a steel tank condensates a lot, so regardless of how dry the air is going in, it will still condensate and put moisture going out.

[lower50's]

I have a water trap after tank on my Jeep and house very little water in either. But I drain the water from the tanks often.

[47 Fasttoys]

Little update: Another lesson learned on air bag system, be sure if your compressor is on a toggle switch to turn it off. Got distracted with the compressor running and a couple of minutes later...boom. Blew the line leaving the compressor off. I figure I had around 300+ PSI based on the run time and how much I had to bleed from the tank to bring the needle off the pegged pin.
I will be installing a new fitting and and automatic control switch next. On a happier note, I installed the visor which was on the truck when I got it. I can't find a manufacture name on it so I don't know who made it back in the day, but I would guess it's 50s era correct. Stainless steel ribbed with polished center section.
Rob

[99 to Life]

Luuuv visors, I found a local one for dirt cheap but of course I can't be spending money right now nice save on the compressor, scary biz there. I have a pressure switch and also a toggle switch. Furthermore I have a big toggle switch to the relay that runs them. So if I'm doing some maintenance in the back, I can kill the master power to them.
I was going to put a blow off valve in the tank but never did.

[Chance48]

Darn Rob, glad no components got rearranged in your air system. It's easy to make a mistake like that, and good idea on a pop off valve aswell 99. I love the visors to. Mine didn't have one, but I will be putting one on it....bout 450.00 for aftermarket. A local yocal has I severely rotted out 50 3/4 ton Chevy with a good visor on it, only thing on the truck that's left in good shape. He wouldn't sell it, but quoted maybe 600.00......I laughed. The truck doesn't run. It's been setting and rotting for years, guy says he gonna redo it, but how's he gonna do that when he doesn't go outside, work or anything, whatever.

[lower50's]

Visor looks good. They make the trucks look chopped. I have a Fulton Sun Shield mounted in the lowest setting.

[iowaboynca]

Looks good.
I was walking the turlock swap meet last weekend and the cheapest I could find a visor was $150 and it was rough...

[iowaboynca]

whoops re-type...too many tabs open

[epon]

Yikes ! sweet build ... theres a square d version of that pressure switch that has the on/off lever on it and is adjustable with about 60 psi or range. so On at 160 off at 210. I mounted the pressure switch box directly behind the seat where I can reach back with my left hand and flip it on(automatic) and off when I want the compressors off. I can also hear the switch click on and off which is super helpful. There are also 3/8 press loc pressure relief valves that go at 220 that no bagged truck is complete without.

[47 Fasttoys]

Thanks Epon, I'll look into that.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so I always thought the Daytona Superbird with the wing on the tail was a cool looking car, so I got to thinking why not a superbird COE? For sure I will be using these pieces on the rear of the truck. Thoughts?
Rob