Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!

[kev2809]

heres what i been working on last night and a few hours this morning...





still have to weld some rods to the bottom and top of the body, it has a weird twist in it. you can see it here...

[kev2809]

didnt really take any before pics but i had these saved..





probably get back on it tomorrow and finish it up, its actually turning out nice!

[VA72C10]

Nice progress! Getting the gaps right makes a big difference down the road when it's all painted!

[maxxxy]

How are you what are you using to fill those gaps?
Posted via Mobile Device

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Nice progress! Getting the gaps right makes a big difference down the road when it's all painted!

thanks, i had no choice with this one! lol
the other gaps are fine...maybe i will have to fix the door to rocker gaps, but thats a lot easier!

Originally Posted by maxxxy

How are you what are you using to fill those gaps?
Posted via Mobile Device

im welding tig rods to the side of the door...there is a thread on it in the paint and body section..

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=497761

[kev2809]

almost finished up the gap...just need a little more grinding to even up the gap..

[kev2809]

looks a lot better than that ugly twist that was in there...

i also got a little bored last night of fixing the gap, so i went to put my new ubolt in and also the panhard bar spacer from cpp...and i noticed something strange..

DRIVER SIDE



PASSENGER SIDE



i believe my notch was not welded in centered up...i took these pics of some mounting holes next to the notch and you can see the space between the holes and notch are different on both sides...





is this going to pose a problem? i really dont want to pay someone to cut this notch out and move it....it seems like it only touches when its completely aired out...

[bdydrppedc10]

huh wow awesome build do you do your own welding??? If so cut the back half right off the truck and build a 2x4 box tubing chassis. Also weld in a nice sexy reliable 4 link for less then 300 bucks. Then in the new frame rails weld up a cross member combo to hold the gas tank, and all air ride components. Instal a sexy ass removable floor. Put 90degree angle steel and weld to the inside wall of truck as it was the the of the floor and put a couple supports and voila a raised bed floor skeleton in the drgnwgn and to make it even more slick install a tottally removable or lift up wood bed floor inside and then all components for air ride,and fuel are accessible......
not trying to take over just putting my 50 cents in the cd player lol

[kev2809]

lol

thanks for the input. no, i dont do my own welding on the framework. i really would like to try a 4 link, but its really not in the budget. maybe afteri get it on the road and enjoy the truck enough to know i would rather have a 4 link lol. i attempted to weld my brackets that are on the axle now and bridge and im not comfortable with how they turned out...so i will have that redone before i get it on the road.

[Slick67]

Nice job on the gaps Kev. That sux when you find an issue like the c-notches, it always seems to pop up when progress is being made. Hope you can make it to the Lonestart Showdown, it's a long way for ya but would be well worth it!

[texastrendz]

Originally Posted by kev2809

looks a lot better than that ugly twist that was in there...

i also got a little bored last night of fixing the gap, so i went to put my new ubolt in and also the panhard bar spacer from cpp...and i noticed something strange..

DRIVER SIDE



PASSENGER SIDE



i believe my notch was not welded in centered up...i took these pics of some mounting holes next to the notch and you can see the space between the holes and notch are different on both sides...





is this going to pose a problem? i really dont want to pay someone to cut this notch out and move it....it seems like it only touches when its completely aired out...

Maybe you can do what I did, it will effect drive line length and what ever else is tied to it. Made them out of some aluminum i had laying around. It will also help center the rear wheels.

[bdydrppedc10]

what that is a good idea but where do the rear wheels sit in wheel well when layed out.(If it is pushed back then i would say that is my least favorite look on an air ride truck.)

[kev2809]

mine are pulled more toward the front of the truck, so these would actually help both situations. thanks for the idea!

[lolife99]

Is the rearend centered in the frame?
Adjustable track bar?
Did you also take measurements when it's air'd up?

Cycle it from all the way up, to down,... and see how much the rearend moves left-to-right.
It looks like the step notch needs to move forward,... but as long as it airs out all the way,... I guess it doesn't matter.

[1sik7t2]

ditto x3

Originally Posted by Newtz67

Digging it. Looks awesome!

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Is the rearend centered in the frame?
Adjustable track bar?
Did you also take measurements when it's air'd up?

Cycle it from all the way up, to down,... and see how much the rearend moves left-to-right.
It looks like the step notch needs to move forward,... but as long as it airs out all the way,... I guess it doesn't matter.

you know, i havent realy checked any of those! the only reason i noticed one side was off was when i replaced that passenger side ubolt last i noticed that side was closer to touching. i had bought it from o reilly's, so the thickness wasnt the same as the driver side. so i figured if i bought the same one on both sides, it would straighten up. but it actually was more noticeable after i put the right size ubolt in.

i do have a double adjustable panhard bar. i ordered the short one...and actually cut it and welded a pipe in the middle to extend it to where i need it, but i do still some adjustability i can still play with.

ya, he definitely didnt weld the notch in the right spot...

[laid67]

Looks good man, ive been following for a while. makes me want to go find a burb... haha

[kev2809]

lol..thanks for checking it out.

waiting on a friend of mine to let me use his stud gun and dent puller so i can start some body work...

[bcubed]

Nice project, it keeps looking better and better!

[kev2809]

well, i cant stick to one thing.

tore my column apart for paint, then decided i might as well take off the pump for paint...then why not the center link...and while im at it replace the idler arm and paint the idler arm mount. man that always happens.....






and new grade 8 bolts for the pump..

[Slick67]

Always a good update Kev! I see the snowball effect happening just like it did with me......and most of us for that matter. "Think I'll paint this, and maybe that, and that too, oh yeah, this would look better painted." Dangit, always happens.

[kev2809]

lol..always. i wasnt even gonna tear down the column..i hope i dont forget how to put it back together lol

[Bud1300]

It really dont matter the order you attack the build I am the same my A.D.D dont help at all but in the end it is getting done. I will work on the body panels for a while and next I am on the wiring but at least I am working on it and at some time it will be done. Keep on and thanks for the info I use your site alot for inspiration.

[C20-67_N_MO]

WoW!

Nice progress. Keep it up!

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by kev2809

lol..always. i wasnt even gonna tear down the column..i hope i dont forget how to put it back together lol

HOw did i miss this build. That looks awesome.

On the black you put on the firewall, it looks like you have oil or water in the line somewhere. The red came out great.. One question i had was why you dont use paint reducer. Why the mineral spirits or thinner???