"Crewcab Jake" the 84 to 74 conversion

[Jaysonb]

Originally Posted by LT7A

N2TRUX:

"The lighting makes the seat look a bit yellow."

"I'm really pleased with how it came out, and the color I ended up with."

Jayson, I captured these two quotes since I assumed that you had missed them. You and Ken are two of my favorite builders on here and I assume that you wouldn't come out and criticize something that another builder had expressed satisfaction with, unless he was asking for other opinions. It takes a fair amount of time for both of you to show us what you're working on and we all enjoy and benefit from it. I don't like the idea of anyone getting unnecessary discouragement from an unsolicited opinion. Happens all the time on the internet, but we're better here. I figured it was unintentional so I thought I would do a "public service post".

Yikes! I was under the impression that he was trying out a couple of colors trying to find one that worked for him. Sorry if my post came across as criticism, that was not my intention at all.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by Jaysonb

Yikes! I was under the impression that he was trying out a couple of colors trying to find one that worked for him. Sorry if my post came across as criticism, that was not my intention at all.

That's what I figured. However, it came across that way to me. Maybe I just saw it a certain way that others won't. Anyway, my intent in saying something is in the hopes that you guys keep having a good time sharing with us so that you'll keep doing it! I get a lot out of it, more than just truck ideas. Having the world of trucks to inhabit for a little time most days is part of what gets me away from an occupation that tries to keep my brain churning full-time.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Jaysonb

Yikes! I was under the impression that he was trying out a couple of colors trying to find one that worked for him. Sorry if my post came across as criticism, that was not my intention at all.

I didn't read it as criticism.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I didn't read it as criticism.

I didn't either.
Plus this site doesn't have a bunch of "thin skinned" forum members.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Dads79GMC

Maybe I missed it? Are you trying to match the light colored inserts from the seat(s) with the console? Colors online are very hard to ID. Just a thought, USA1 has a great mix for the 79 mystic vinyl paint. They may be able to match that insert if that is what you're going for.
Mike

Originally Posted by LT7A

N2TRUX:

"The lighting makes the seat look a bit yellow."

"I'm really pleased with how it came out, and the color I ended up with."

Jayson, I captured these two quotes since I assumed that you had missed them. You and Ken are two of my favorite builders on here and I assume that you wouldn't come out and criticize something that another builder had expressed satisfaction with, unless he was asking for other opinions. It takes a fair amount of time for both of you to show us what you're working on and we all enjoy and benefit from it. I don't like the idea of anyone getting unnecessary discouragement from an unsolicited opinion. Happens all the time on the internet, but we're better here. I figured it was unintentional so I thought I would do a "public service post".

Let me try to clarify what I'm doing here by starting in the beginning. I want the interior to retain the OEM styling with a blend of contemporary amenities.
The Dakota Digital RTX cluster is a great example of my mindset. It looks very similiar to a factory tach dash till you turn it on. Even then, you can adjust the lighting to look similar to stock. Thats the look I am after.

I considered several option for the seating choice. I could have recovered the stock benches, or added a set of factory Blazer buckets with the console I restored. While pricing options and lead time locally I had a conversation with the sales manager of TMI Products. He told me what they offered and quoted me a very competitive price. I decided that I liked the idea of having completely new seats that paid tribute to the vintage look I was after.

TMI sent several samples of vinyl and I picked the ones that were closest to my vision, and purposely avoided the extremely popular trendy colors. Thats how I arrived at the colors of the seats.

[Wikid61]

A swatch of the actual material in the hands of the mixer? Yes, that will get you as close to matching up as possible.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Jaysonb

I wonder if you could have a paint shop mix up somthing that is a little closer match, and have them put the paint into some spray paint cans for you? Just a thought. In the picture the console doesn't seem to compliment the color of the seats very well. Might just be the lighting in the pictures.

Originally Posted by Wikid61

A swatch of the actual material in the hands of the mixer? Yes, that will get you as close to matching up as possible.

My experience with dyeing interiors has taught me its better to go with an "off the shelf" color. Yes, I know I can have colors matched at the local paint supply company. I have done it several times, and the results varied in accuracy. That is exactly why I prefer an "off the shelf" color.

I have used SEM enough to know that they are very consistent in tone and sheen from can to can, or can to quart. Consequently my experience is what motivates me to use the process I am using.

[N2TRUX]

Regarding color choices, the seat color was determined by what was available from TMI. They are NOT limited on color options, but these came the closest to what I had in mind.

With the seat color as a guide I worked toward finding a color that complimented the primary color, but was a shade or two darker. Despite my statement that SEM is accurate with their formulas, the color charts are not. The actual color tends to be more accurate to the lid than the chart so it took a couple of attempts to zero in on what I wanted.

[N2TRUX]

Due to the crewcab frame being taller than a C10 frame I debated on what system I should run on the rear of Jake. Initially I considered running a RideTech "shockwave" system but the tech experts at RideTech didnt support that plan. I had switched my thoughts to go with the weld in 4 link instead. That was until I talked with Todd Carpenter of @bigfishgarage at LST.

Ironically Todd is building a similar truck and said he used the C10 bolt in 4 link with coilover shocks. He sent me pics of how he had done it and my mind was made up.
After discussing my plan with the RideTech staff, a plan was set in motion.

Heres what showed up today.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Due to the crewcab frame being taller than a C10 frame I debated on what system I should run on the rear of Jake. Initially I considered running a RideTech "shockwave" system but the tech experts at RideTech didnt support that plan. I had switched my thoughts to go with the weld in 4 link instead. That was until I talked with Todd Carpenter of @bigfishgarage at LST.

Ironically Todd is building a similar truck and said he used the C10 bolt in 4 link with coilover shocks. He sent me pics of how he had done it and my mind was made up.
After discussing my plan with the RideTech staff, a plan was set in motion.

Heres what showed up today.

I don't understand why you weren't considering their Bolt-in 4-Bar?
The 'universal' Weld-In HD kit is for the larger HD axle housings from what I've researched. Since you're doing a 1/2 conversion swap, the Bolt-In kit seems a no brainer. The 'tough' choice would be the spring type (coil or bag). To me, that would all come down to how the truck is intended to be used (Sport-Truck or Tow-Truck) but my logic is not from a promotional or marketing stand-point.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I don't understand why you weren't considering their Bolt-in 4-Bar?
The 'universal' Weld-In HD kit is for the larger HD axle housings from what I've researched. Since you're doing a 1/2 conversion swap, the Bolt-In kit seems a no brainer. The 'tough' choice would be the spring type (coil or bag). To me, that would all come down to how the truck is intended to be used (Sport-Truck or Tow-Truck) but my logic is not from a promotional or marketing stand-point.

Scoti there are multiple reasons I initially considered the HD weld in kit. Some of those factors changed. One of them was discovering the C10 bolt in kit would work on a C20 crewcab frame.

Its possible your like me and never knew that the C20 "crewcab " frame is the same as a C30 frame in the rear. Consequently the C10 bolt in kit is not a direct "bolt in" . The supplied C notch wont fit over the taller frame. If I use the Switch Suspension C notch the upper mounting bracket for the coilover goes away.

Todd used a RideTech bolt on shock mount to resolve that issue. He also figured out that the boxing portion of the RideTech bridge will work if you go inside the frame rails rather than outside. This bit of information is what encouraged me to proceed with what seemed to be the logical choice from the beginning.

[Jaysonb]

Ken, I have no experience at all when it comes to the "modern" rear suspensions for our trucks. I know if you want rear airbags that it is necessary to install a 2 or 4 link type system, but I'm interested to learn what the benefits of a coil over system are?? I love the way really low trucks look, but when I have done the standard axle flip I seem to end up with a real rough riding truck. Do the coil over systems allow you to get low, and maintain a nice ride, or are they aimed for performance type driving? I'm sure air ride would get me what I'm after, but I get nervous about all the things that can go wrong with an air type system.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Jaysonb

Ken, I have no experience at all when it comes to the "modern" rear suspensions for our trucks. I know if you want rear airbags that it is necessary to install a 2 or 4 link type system, but I'm interested to learn what the benefits of a coil over system are?? I love the way really low trucks look, but when I have done the standard axle flip I seem to end up with a real rough riding truck. Do the coil over systems allow you to get low, and maintain a nice ride, or are they aimed for performance type driving? I'm sure air ride would get me what I'm after, but I get nervous about all the things that can go wrong with an air type system.

Actually there are several ways to accomplish lowering these trucks. My 77 started with a very simple air system before the current kits were available. The front had bags on stock A arms and and the rear used outboard mounted bags with the stock spring pack. Regarding your concern over failure, simply design your system to allow the wheels to roll with zero pressure.
My point is it's not mandatory to have a tubular system with bags, but it is the best system available.

Why did I choose coilover system vs air system? Because priorities change. In the past I wanted to be able to ride low and air out for show. Now I want a set it and forget it system. It will take a bit of tuning to dial the system in, but once we determine correct spring rate and shock settings, I'm done.

My target is a "Sport Touring " suspension that will provide a smooth tight ride. The combination of premium quality shock and control arm bushings along with rod ends that reduce deflection I should end up with a smooth ride and corner carving capability.
The massive RideTech sway bars will eliminate body roll, and an AGR variable ratio steering box will reduce lock to lock turns and improve steering feedback.

[N2TRUX]

Today I made a trip to Homegrown Hotrods. I needed to test fit some parts, and measure my drive shaft. I got the direct fit bench seat bracket from TMI Products this week. What I discovered was it's a direct fit for a regular cab, which makes it fit perfectly in the rear of a crewcab.

[N2TRUX]

Since we had previously set up the generic fit bench bracket for front seats, it made sense to leave it there. They come as bolt together pieces. Once we get the fit perfected, I will weld them in place and grind everything smooth

[N2TRUX]

Another part I wanted to test fit was the dual tank switch. Jake started life as a Silverado with no options. I plan to change that by adding as many functional amenities as possible. I used a dual tank bed so I could add an additional tank as mentioned in a previous post.

The switch for the tanks would normally be mounted in the middle of the dash. I have no desire to cut a big hole in a freshly painted dash so I opted for a new location. The ashtray provides a perfect place to hide the switch. I will use a piece of textured plastic to make a faceplate and cut a hole for the switch.

[N2TRUX]

And last, but certainly not least was the driveshaft. I had multiple discussions with Steve Smith from QA1 regarding a custom built carbon fiber driveshaft. Since we couldn't confirm the specs on the slip yoke he suggested using the stock one. I felt that defeated the purpose of building a custom shaft. I decided to get the answers he needed and went fact finding.

Unfortunately this required jacking the truck up and dropping the shaft out, but I have dimensions now.

[N2TRUX]

One last item that we tested out were the mirrors. The doors are set up for the later dumbo mirrors but the really look too big. The smaller "sport" mirrors look so much better but they are essentially useless. I decided to see what the earlier version would look like. These 69-72 used primarily on 1st gen Blazers.

They are about an inch bigger and stand an inch taller. They also have built in LED blinkers.

[N2TRUX]

Now that the decision was confirmed on the seat brackets, I could finish mocking them up. I mounted the front seats back on the frame and worked on the console mounts. With it positioned forward the back feet set one the frame just fine. I marked and drilled the holes and dropped stainless screws through. I used largest washers possible to distribute the stress points.

[N2TRUX]

The front feet hung over the frame. I didn't want to drill new holes, so I chose to fabricate a small bracket to support it properly. This allows me to use the original mounting points that are reinforced. I temporarily bolted them on. All of the brackets and mounting tabs will be welded so I can remove as many of the through bolts as possible.

[N2TRUX]

With all the mounting done I spent some time giving the frame a tune up. The corners were rounded, and the ends of the tabs were tapered and rounded as well. I plan to use button hedge bolts to hold them in place.

[OlySezHey]

So, obviously, I just found this thread, I'll be getting my own '77 CCLB C20 the end of April, and I'm really grateful to have found this thread AND highly impressed by it's content - thank you SO MUCH for sharing! So much instructional info and vendor/parts recommendations! I'll be using Tamco paints as a result of your testimonial I'll have to get through your other builds to see what I can gleam from them

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

We are never to old to learn. I try to learn something of value every day. Unfortunately as I grow older, its harder to retain.

1. Thank God for a place like this for us to disguise "notes to self" as educational threads/blogs to the masses

2. Although I like the Cheyenne strip better on yer tailgate, I prefer the newer style side mirrors IMO, but I saw you opted for the '69-'72 mirrors, definitely the best choice (again, IMO)
3. Regarding the rusted rocker; "The exposed insides will be blasted, and neutralized." What do you mean by neutralized? Using a rust converter of some type?
4. Are the new rockers getting welded or glued in?
5. What did you use to clean the Silverado tailgate band? That looks great!
6. I'm impressed how well those rubber hoses cleaned up (oil cooling lines, gas filler tube) I never would have thought that could be done!
7. What kind of chrome cleaner do you use? Turtle wax chrome cleaner seems to work pretty good to me.

I appreciate it if you have the time to answer my questions, other than that, keep on building the dream - it's at least as much encouragement for us as we might be for you

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by OlySezHey

So, obviously, I just found this thread, I'll be getting my own '77 CCLB C20 the end of April, and I'm really grateful to have found this thread AND highly impressed by it's content - thank you SO MUCH for sharing! So much instructional info and vendor/parts recommendations! I'll be using Tamco paints as a result of your testimonial I'll have to get through your other builds to see what I can gleam from them

1. Thank God for a place like this for us to disguise "notes to self" as educational threads/blogs to the masses
You would've surprised how often I go back through my threads. I also keep my build pics organized in folders
2. Although I like the Cheyenne strip better on yer tailgate, I prefer the newer style side mirrors IMO, but I saw you opted for the '69-'72 mirrors, definitely the best choice (again, IMO)I'm still undecided on the tailgate band. I'll wait till I get moulding and bumpers in place before I take my final choice
3. Regarding the rusted rocker; "The exposed insides will be blasted, and neutralized." What do you mean by neutralized? Using a rust converter of some type? We cut out the rusted metal and used Rust Mort to nuetrilize the rust. We coated it with a sealer, then welded in a metal patch panel
4. Are the new rockers getting welded or glued in?We didn't find it necessary to replace the rocker panel. A small patch was all that was required
5. What did you use to clean the Silverado tailgate band? That looks great! I used Adam's Metal polish. In reality it was in mint condition. All I did was give it a good cleaning
6. I'm impressed how well those rubber hoses cleaned up (oil cooling lines, gas filler tube) I never would have thought that could be done! I use Scotch Brite and brake cleaner. It's a miracle worker
7. What kind of chrome cleaner do you use? Turtle wax chrome cleaner seems to work pretty good to me. Good old Turtle Wax

I appreciate it if you have the time to answer my questions, other than that, keep on building the dream - it's at least as much encouragement for us as we might be for you

Thanks so much for following along

[N2TRUX]

I have a few small things on the interior I'm not happy with the way they look. One of those items are the ashtray on the back door panels. They stuck out like a sore thumb, and they would never be used for their intended purpose.
In one of my middle of the night OCD sessions I had an idea. I decided to convert them to courtesy lights. The housings are made from stainless steel, so I spent some time with rubbing compound and got them looking new again.

[N2TRUX]

Once I got both sides polished I made a pattern. I used the foam from a "to go" box since its easy to cut.
It took a bit of trimming to get a perfect fit, but now its ready to transfer. I am looking for a source for the appropriate material to use as a lense.
I plan to use an LED light in a small socket to give additional lighting in the rear seat area.