Make it handle

[Rstone1]

Wish I could make this weekend but doesnt look like it's in the cards.
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[Grimee]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Heading to P-town in the morning. It should be good racing if the weather holds. Duece's Wild 67 F-100, Grimee's Blazer, we hear of a McGauphy's C-10, and hopefully the re-born Hotchkis C-10 of Mike Hickman. We've heard a bunch of smack talk, it's time to race. Tune in to No Limit Engineering on Facebook to get live updates.

I will be in P town for sure and i will dig around and post some pics of my rear suspension McGaughys truck is not finished I was there yesterday see you on saturday

[Rstone1]

It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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[Grimee]

Originally Posted by Rstone1

It would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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my shop is in clovis if you get down this way you could stop by and check it out like you I started with the idea and actually put coil overs behind the rear and then figure out how to put a panhard bar in front and on top of the diff and got it done but the ride sucked and and i could not see how it would handle very well so i designed what is now on the rear end of my tahoe ill get some pics up so you can check it out

[Rstone1]

I'll see if i can get a day off and come down and see your truck. This is our busy time so it might be awhile. Thanks for the offer. Sounds like we are on the same track. I need to figure out my fornt suspension as mine was a 4x4 and I have a clean slate.

[Grimee]

Originally Posted by Rstone1

I'll see if i can get a day off and come down and see your truck. This is our busy time so it might be awhile. Thanks for the offer. Sounds like we are on the same track. I need to figure out my fornt suspension as mine was a 4x4 and I have a clean slate.

heres a couple of pics these are of the final mock up you can see the hollow 1 inch sway bar and arms above the coil over

[Grimee]

you can see the early classic truck arms they are square tubing with a 12 degree mandrel bend at the end

[Grimee]

heres a pic at the throwdown

[Rstone1]

That's amazing that two people who have never met or raked can have the same basic idea. That's almost the exact picture I had in my head. Been thinking about it for the last 3 months. Thanks for the pictures. Was wondering how it's working with the 2 to1 ratio on the rocker?
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[BossHogg69]

Grimee, that's a killer Tahoe! I've always loved 2dr, 2wd Tahoes, much less one that gets invited to the Truckin' Throwdown.

[Grimee]

Originally Posted by Rstone1

That's amazing that two people who have never met or raked can have the same basic idea. That's almost the exact picture I had in my head. Been thinking about it for the last 3 months. Thanks for the pictures. Was wondering how it's working with the 2 to1 ratio on the rocker?
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I have a 550 lb spring on there now but the coilovers are valved for the front i am sending some to Rob to get them revalved for the rear we are going to and some dampning on the compression side to accomidate the faster stroke with the 2 to 1 ratio then i might try a 600 lb spring . we got to run with Rob yesterday at the Good Guys and if you didnt know HE and the Bullit were AWSOME ! that was the first time on that short of a corse and the second time out with it but it seems to work ok I think it will be really good when its dialed in . heres what it looks like on the track

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PeKp3rz8TE

[Rstone1]

Didn't expect 550on the rear. I was think more like 450. I guess the 2 to 1 make a difference on the spring selection. I've always been a little to conservative on doing rates I think. On my first blazer I put 3/4 ton suburban spring on it thinking they were going to be stiff and ended up being just about right once I cut them to size. What do you have on the front if you don't mind me asking. I was thinking 600's for the front of my blazer just because of the weight. Laetrile I weighted my blazer it was about 4500lbs but it was still a 4x4at that time.
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[leftcoast66]

Rob, what ratio would you suggest for the steering rack? I'm looking at both 15:1 and 20:1, is 15:1 worth the extra few bucks?

[robnolimit]

Ha ha ha, I guess the question is 'how few extra bucks'? That said, if you like sport-style driving, it's worth the extra to get the 15-1. You'll get more feed back from the tires, and better response.

[robnolimit]

Congrats to Grimee, he toughed out the rain and made a great showing at Pleasanton. He made 6 or 7 runs saturday afternoon, settled into a smooth driving pattern, and cut some good times. His rear suspsension works very well. We talked about tires, springs, shocks and swaybars. I expect him to be at the next event running even harder and faster.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Ha ha ha, I guess the question is 'how few extra bucks'? That said, if you like sport-style driving, it's worth the extra to get the 15-1. You'll get more feed back from the tires, and better response.

I hear you there, its the extra $60 for the AGR Mustang steering rack versus just getting a stock mustang rack.

[Rstone1]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Congrats to Grimee, he toughed out the rain and made a great showing at Pleasanton. He made 6 or 7 runs saturday afternoon, settled into a smooth driving pattern, and cut some good times. His rear suspsension works very well. We talked about tires, springs, shocks and swaybars. I expect him to be at the next event running even harder and faster.

Congrats Grimee. I wish I could have been in on that conversation. I think i'm at a good starting place with my rear suspension. I going to use factory truck arms since I have two sets. I will stitch weld the seams and put some good bushings in them. Modify the rear of the for my Panhard bar. Cantilever the rear coil overs. I think my blazer is probably a little heavier than Grimee's Taheo so I'll start with 600lb springs. Rob what coil overs would you recommend since i' starting from scratch?

I hope to have the Blazer on my frame table in the next couple of weeks then I can start mocking things up.
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[robnolimit]

It's worth the 60 bucks. With my best politically correct tone, I have a long standing relationship with both Romic, and Ride Tech. Most of Romic's valving is based on our work at No Limit, thats a plus for me, - but, currently only avail with rebound adjustment. (single adjustable). I have tested and ran on the Ride Techs as well, and they are a very good shock. Fox has done there homework. RideTec's plus, they have double, and now tripple adjustable shocks. So, it may be a budget call. Teck tip: use a long stroke shock. 5" is good, with a 12" spring, this will give you more tuning options later.

[leftcoast66]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

It's worth the 60 bucks.

Thanks Rob, you're a wealth of info, I really appreciate the help and advice you bring to the table.

I wasn't sure if 15:1 would be too twitchy but I agree it'll be really responsive and great to drive with. I appreciate the 2nd opinion. I'm getting antsy to start building.

[Rstone1]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

It's worth the 60 bucks. With my best politically correct tone, I have a long standing relationship with both Romic, and Ride Tech. Most of Romic's valving is based on our work at No Limit, thats a plus for me, - but, currently only avail with rebound adjustment. (single adjustable). I have tested and ran on the Ride Techs as well, and they are a very good shock. Fox has done there homework. RideTec's plus, they have double, and now tripple adjustable shocks. So, it may be a budget call. Teck tip: use a long stroke shock. 5" is good, with a 12" spring, this will give you more tuning options later.

Didn't want to put you on the spot like that. Up I appricate your honesty. I am trying to figure a budget. Trying to get the most I can for what money I have to spend.
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[robnolimit]

Todays conversation, Can a sway bar be too big? Well yes. When a swaybar becomes so big that it starts to take pressure OFF of the inside tire, due to the forces of gravity acting on the CG (forced body roll), then it's too big. You may see impressive looking pictures of racecars with one wheel off the ground, but think about it. If one tire is off, then three have to do the work of four, and the tire loads go up. The chance of a 1G turn goes down. There is a balance between springs, shocks and swaybars. If you go too stiff, you might as well install some tubing inplace of the shock, and lock the suspension, but we all know that would handle like the old red wagon. Keep that thought in mind when choosing bar sizes.

[Rstone1]

My question would be how do you figure out were to start with your sway bar size. and what determines if you go up in size or down in size?

[66shortwide]

I also would like to know how do you decide on a starting point for sway bar rate. Is there a standard rate to start with based on weight, or should it be based on something else? My truck(66) has c4 vette front and rear suspension with coilovers - was going to start with the stock vette bars, but I think i'm going to go with a set of splined bars.

[robnolimit]

On most C-10 trucks, I would start at 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 front, and 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 rear. Theseare solid bar sizes. I am working on a simple sway bar tuning sheet that I should be able to post up in a few days.

[Rstone1]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

On most C-10 trucks, I would start at 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 front, and 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 rear. Theseare solid bar sizes. I am working on a simple sway bar tuning sheet that I should be able to post up in a few days.

Thanks for the reply. Thats about what I was thinking as a starting point. 1 3/8 or 1 1/2" front bar and 1 1/4 rear. I figure my Blazer is going to be a little more top heavy and will probably weight more than a truck and will require a little more bar. Am I thinking about this right?