49' Patina bagged in PA

[skymangs]

Looking killer 99.

[47 Fasttoys]

Looks good 99, on the road soon?
Rob

[99 to Life]

thanks guys, I got new alt on way 120 amp lifetime warranty. I think that should handle the efan and compressors. Its really ready to drive outta the garage, just so muddy out and or raining. Got alot of things to address still. Hoping to get doors on with bearclaws this weekend. Have a few airleaks to fix (stays up for a few hours at the moment). Then onto alot of the random stuff. Still gotta wrap up the tach and speedo conversion, carpet, door glass, trim etc, seat, headliner, shifter, hitch, mount my taillights, fix rear fenders and coat them, and install hidden stereo and speakers after I get it inspected. At this rate, I'm shooting for the inspection for May. Still need to register it etc. So I got a little spending to do and time involved still.

[lower50's]

How high can you get the running boards to clear speed bumps ect.?

[99 to Life]

lower 50' I'll have to check on that for you. It can get up pretty decent though. I think my ride height is around 4" or so, I can prolly get up to 6 maybe 7". I dunno I'll have to measure that. I'll prolly try and keep 60psi in the fronts 2600 airlifts and 40ish in the back firestones, less if I can.

[youngrodder]

99- looking really good. Keep at it.

Marc

[Sim6]

Looks awesome!

[99 to Life]

4-12 Moving alone at snails pace. Little things really dig into time, like getting hood on, and still have problems with my one spring. Got doors somewhat on, holy friggin bolts needed for that. Started on the bearclaws, somewhat dreading it as everything seems to give me alot of trouble on this build. I wanted to make my inside handles, outside turndown handles both work, all while having a keyless lock. I doubt I'm gonna get everything to work as planned so I may just keep outside handle stationary and put a button out there. Just sees like a tight squeeze to get two actuators in there to run the latch and lock. I wouldn't be so worried, had the doors not already been painted.

here is a pic of the custom tach I'm working on. it hasn't been working, (told you, everything is hard hence its name 49hartimes) so I bought a new tach, it works. then I hooked the conversion a tach back up, kept moving the needle around and finally go it to work. took it off today to put the custom face plate on and now it won't work again. I really don't want to cut up another new tach, but I guess I will if I got to. I dunno if I got a defective tach or if the needle is the issue.

here is a vid of some revs and air up and down. sound doesn't really do it justice. I only went up to 5k. Need some exhaust turndowns and couple more hangers to finish it up. Getting some gravel soon so I can build a ramp up to my garage as there is a good 8" of drop so I can't even drive outta the garage!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59Z6...ature=youtu.be

[oldman3]

99, sounds great, getting closer all the time...Jim

[joedoh]

just outstanding!

[Advanced Design]

Great job 99! Looks good, sounds good. Hope the latches don't give you too much trouble.

[lower50's]

That sounds GOOOOOD. Lookin GOOD. You'll be driving soon.
Why do a lot of builds change to the bear claw latches, what is the problem with the original latches?

[99 to Life]

thanks guys, I'll get some better clips soon. as for changing to claws. The OG latches usually get worn out and don't stay closed all that well. Plus its a pain to get the (1 side only) door lock to work. I'm going with claws so it shuts smoother, stays shut around bends!! and will have an remote locking system.

[IWanna49]

Looks and sounds great!!

I really like the tach conversion. I really think there's a market for a reasonably priced setup like that. Looks outstanding! Be cool for some custom gauges to match....

[99 to Life]

thanks guys, 49... I seen this conversion done before. but for some reason mine really isn't working. The tachs I have found on ebay for 30 bucks, so its a really cheap modification, just takes some time. I might just hack up my other tach and see if taking the needle off and on are making it not work. I thought maybe since I applied the new needled on, maybe its too much weight. I did have it working once. So maybe by fluke I have some bad connection. I plan on doing the same with a speedo, which I'd hate to have not work since they are way more money.

I want everything to work right. More gauges the better IMO.

oh, and I played around with my bear claw for a little today. So to use the plates it came with they are pretty much designed to weld in, which I was really hoping not to do. the picture above has the claw too forward by atleast half and inch or more. when I put the plate on, and shut the door, the plate hits the back end of the door jam, so it need to be conformed to the door like altman latches are, or... fitted into the door which would require welding. I guess I'll just bite the bullet, but rest assured I'm motivated to make my own latch plates and or kits for the future.

[reaper71]

99...Since you don't want to weld anything to the door, how about you take the latch and fit it as needed and then make a cover (maybe 20 or 22 gauge) and put some flanges around it so it can be bolted to the door ( use some button head cap screws to fasten to door)

[99 to Life]

reaper, the thinner gauge would def be easier to conform to the door, but not so sure on the longevity of it holding up. The plate supplied is prolly closer to 16g. It has to conform to the door exactly, thats why the altman kit works as a bolt on. That shape isn't the easiest to make out of thicker material. I'll take some more pics and do a more focused write up on the route I decide to take. I'm sure I could do it either way. One thing that is not a huge deal is, I already have to repaint a few things, like door jambs etc so touching up the bear claws wouldn't be the end of the world.

[Coach529]

Everything looks great!!

[reaper71]

X2 on the O.E. latches they were junk from the factory! Bear claws or jaws as some may call them are quieter and smoother to operate, and a ton safer! (you can also use nylon on the striker to make even quieter )

Mark...

[99 to Life]

reaper, is the striker suppose to be tight in the claw? with mine they have play back and forth which seems odd to me. So I'd have to be extremely accurate in where the striker lands so its on the far end of the claw so it can't move back and forth. I don't it if moched up yet to shut it and see how it performs.

here is a deadbolt lock I made for my 51'. It mounts behind the door jam and sends the bolt through the door. It's powered by a remote.

I'm thinking about making a set for this truck, so I can just keep the bear claws to a minimal. I'll already have to fab up a bracket to either run an actuator inside and or make it so the turn down handles work with the mech, which seems like a lot of pissing around.

[reaper71]

99, Yes they do have a bit of play in them, but once the door is shut you never notice any movement (if you have a chance go back through my build on the door latches maybe it will help) Starts on page 5.
The design of these latches give you alot of adjustment in them. (keep in mind if you do not have your rubber around the door opening yet they will fit different so you will need some fine tuning)

[reaper71]

On the dead bolt idea...Safety or Security??

If it's to keep the doors from flying open the latches have a safety portion in them. Meaning if they did "pop" it would still hold on the 2nd portion that is in the design of the latch.

Security..We live in a smaller town and no real threat of someone stealing our Rides here

Hope all this helps, any other questions feel free to ask.

Mark...

[99 to Life]

yeah I was gonna ask around seeing if people like to install the claws bf or after the door rubber is on. I know the rubber would settle a bit so I'm sure movement might become normal. Mine is not installed yet. Do you have any preference on that?

as for the lock. Its more for security. I don't want anyone opening the doors day or night that have no business doing so. I also usually turn off my kill switch and have little toggles inline with the ignition etc so its pretty darn hard to figure out how to start it.

[reaper71]

When I installed my latches I didn't have the rubber yet so I know that it may change the way the door closes etc. later on. Not really a big deal or anything just keep in mind you may need to adjust a bit.

As for the security thing I learned years ago with a custom truck I built when I was still in High School (had shaved handles) and a thief wanted in the truck and couldn't figure out how to get in they simply tried prying the door open and completely tore up the door and B pillar!! ( and I had a show that weekend) So i figured if they want in that bad they will do whatever it takes to get in!! locks or No locks..
Just my 2 cents.

Mark...

[lower50's]

I somewhat agree reaper71, but a bent door is better than a missing truck. I have had my 67 jeep for 20 years no door locks, no top sometimes but I do have 2 keys. You just have to make it harder.