67 cheby's Dropmember build thread (CLOUD 9)

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

good news...sold the Dune Buggie , started working on the truck again last night put the rear disc brakes back on (should be the last time the rear end is completely powder coated and done, minus running the brake lines)NOW.... back to the "NIGHTMARE FRONT INNER FENDERS"

Any chance a set of rear tubs could be made to work easier? With the flatter shape it would be much easier to blend into to change the coverage area and height. Just a thought.

[colin_havens]

That looks MUCH better. Those will look great once finished out.

[my67chevytruck]

I like it...... transitions alot better.....

[67cheby]

thanks for all of your input , it is appreciated, this was my last idea , so hopefully it will turn out looking right, im thinking about shooting it with a quick coat of spray paint ,satin black , so i can get a little beter idea of what it will look like finished, the fenders flare in the front and rear, which is kind of cool because it gives extra turning room

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

thanks for all of your input , it is appreciated, this was my last idea , so hopefully it will turn out looking right, im thinking about shooting it with a quick coat of spray paint ,satin black , so i can get a little beter idea of what it will look like finished, the fenders flare in the front and rear, which is kind of cool because it gives extra turning room

That made a huge difference. It looks much better now. Great idea. Keep up the good work.

[67cheby]

68tt i havent forgot about the measurements for you, i just need to figure out for sure which way to measure what you are looking for

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

68tt i havent forgot about the measurements for you, i just need to figure out for sure which way to measure what you are looking for

Put it at full drop as low as you want it to get and measure how high the center of the diff is above the original section height of the frame rails.

You can use your bed mount rails as a reference point to see how close it will be to the bed floor if you don't have the bed on or available.

If the diff is not going to poke through the bed at the resting point you want to achieve then it might be worth the effort to rework the frame notch structure to try to get it all below your relocated bed floor.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Here itis.... added a little vw influence to it, took 4 inches off of my inner fenders and welded a piece of a bug fender to it

MUCH better!

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

MUCH better!

is "much better" good or is much better, "they looked like crap before so they couldnt get worse this is an improvement"??

[edflores]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Here it is "back in the saddle again" been working on it every night , added a little vw influence to it, took 4 inches off of my inner fenders and welded a piece of a bug fender to it

Now that is using your noggin. Fantastic job!!

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by edflores

No that is using your noggin. Fantastic job!!

i didnt think that my love for vws would ever have any effect on my Chevy .....but hey , i guess you never know, what some crack head will dream up, it should be a fun conversation piece at shows

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

is "much better" good or is much better, "they looked like crap before so they couldnt get worse this is an improvement"??

The square edge just didn't look right and threw off the whole look. The rounded contour really made a big change to the whole look of it. Now "much better" means they look good.

A little contouring at the forward transitions to the original inner fender will finish the look.

You are on the right track and making good progress.

[LEEVON]

You nailed it, much more subtle.

[67cheby]

Thanks Leevon and i am serious about the help , just let me know

[watahyahknow]

great idea i wouldnt have come up with it unless i had the stuf laying around and would be in a creatve mood , it looks a lot more like it belongs there than a trailerfender , i wouldnt be suprized if there more people that going to use this trick in the furure

i've seen sumtin simulair used once when the set an engine back inside a car and needed to put the firewhall back
they used part of the bucket of a wheelbarrow they just cut it to size welded it up and they where done in no time flat , looked good too with the compound corners on the bucket and all that

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Put it at full drop as low as you want it to get and measure how high the center of the diff is above the original section height of the frame rails.

You can use your bed mount rails as a reference point to see how close it will be to the bed floor if you don't have the bed on or available.

If the diff is not going to poke through the bed at the resting point you want to achieve then it might be worth the effort to rework the frame notch structure to try to get it all below your relocated bed floor.

here is a pic that i think might give you and idea, the bottom of the axle tube sets about even with the top of the old frame

[trenz68]

looks good

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

here is a pic that i think might give you and idea, the bottom of the axle tube sets about even with the top of the old frame

Looks like it is about 9" above the top of the frame rail at the center line of the axle. How tall is the frame notch?

[68 TT]

It is really starting to take shape. That little change to the wheel wells really made a big difference. Great work.

[67cheby]

thanks, i have alot of work left but im getting there!!

[RocketKing]

Man, that is one great lookin' air cleaner.

[67cheby]

Thanks there is a great story behind it maybe i will tell you about it sometime !!LOL

[BlackTopMotors]

Looks Great! Keep them pics coming!

[superflysteiny]

looks great really coming along

[67cheby]

Thanks Blacktop and Superfly , i appreciate the response..kinda keeps me motivated