Not Another Rebuild Thread....

[CRGRS 66]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

I am going to have to go with the no, answer on that because I really cannot visualize anything down there that would fit what you just asked me.

I took copious pics though.

I do have some concerns though regarding my clutch install. The 11" clutch I got came with a pilot bearing and the video I watched did not install it. I assumed since it was a corvette motor, and the same exact transmission that what I was watching was as close to what I have as possible. Later I went back and saw that the 'vette crank was obviously milled to take the pilot pinon at the end of the tranny.

I am not 100% certain I do not need that bearing. Any input?

I also took some pics of my clutch fork. It has about 2" of free travel before it presses against the clutch plate, and I do not know if that is normal or not...
I will post the pics tomorrow as it is late and I am supposed to be in bed atm.

I am not much help with bearing, although I have read on here that a pilot bushing is preferable to a pilot bearing. I believe markeb01 amongst others would steer you right in this regard. I can tell you that my clutch also has the extra travel, I would be interested to know if it is okay to limit that travel and have the clutch pedal rest neatly alongside the brake pedal.

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by coulter

Nice man!!! that engine is looking really good

Thank you Coulter, that means a lot coming from you! I have always loved your build !!

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

I am not much help with bearing, although I have read on here that a pilot bushing is preferable to a pilot bearing. I believe markeb01 amongst others would steer you right in this regard. I can tell you that my clutch also has the extra travel, I would be interested to know if it is okay to limit that travel and have the clutch pedal rest neatly alongside the brake pedal.

Yeah I am hoping someone in the know can chime in here because the only GM YouTubes I could find were for the 'vette and a K1500 and the newer truck one was no where near what I needed.

***********************************************************

This first photo shows my clutch fork as far forward as it will go.


Then 1.25 inches of travel later, this is it as it rests against the clutch plate. Is this normal? It felt like more than this, so perhaps I am over reacting?


The forward hole on the engine in this pic I thought was perfect for my clutch linkage, and the ball screwed right in. However, even after I jockyed the arm in there, there 1) was barely enough room between the engine and the frame for the arm; 2) the angle it was at bound the movement of the linkage.


so I made this.


Works like a charm !!

[piratexpress1369a]

the red does work for me .

[Bomp]

You'll get it figured out. Google is one of my best info getters and this place.
Next you know your gonna be cranking it over.

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a

the red does work for me .

It is more subtle in person, I promise LOL.
Thanks for taking a look though, any and all feed back is greatly appreciated !!

Originally Posted by Bomp

You'll get it figured out. Google is one of my best info getters and this place.
Next you know your gonna be cranking it over.

I am actually going to break down and get a genuine mechanic over here to look at a few things and answer some questions for me. I am not going to have much of a shake down time on this bad boy before it is going on a 2,500 mile ride home.

No room for finding mistakes on the open road.


**********************************************************************

Earlier this week I made this little bracket. I was at the parts store and had picked up all the stuff I needed for my pump-to-carb fuel line; and I had the idea of making this little bugger for this part of the project.



I love these glass in line filters, but I am aways consciencious about them being in a position to rattle or strike something and shatter, so that is what the little bracket is for.


And I have to admit, custom bending tubes to make them go where and how you want to is kind of therapeudic...

[McMurphy]

Also earlier this week I decided to totally disassemble my steering column, and shave the column shifter.

I just used an angle grinder to cut it off this cowl piece, and with some JB weld putty I filled the hole and while it was soft I did as much molding to the contours and fill my grinder hits.
This is after it had set up, and I had sanded it down.


In this photo you can almost see the putty on the inside of the old shifter well.


Then today I put it all back together and set it aside to wait for me to finish up some other projects in the cab before I Herculiner the cab floor and start putting it all back together.


I filled some cracks in my steering wheel, and am waiting for that to dry before I paint it and put it back on the column.

[C@rnut001]

It is all looking good, keep up the momentum and the great job!

[Lifted07Duramax]

Great build, when do you expect it to be done and painted?

[b.eddy's72]

I know it was when you first started the build but I have to admit that I was getting worried as I read some of the donor vehicles you were looking at (Camero, El Camino). Then I got to the STOP STOP STOP post and was relieved that someone interviened. You truck has come a long way and is looking great.

[piratexpress1369a]

hold fast ,steady as she goes ,lol

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by C@rnut001

It is all looking good, keep up the momentum and the great job!

On my way down to the garage now...

Originally Posted by Lifted07Duramax

Great build, when do you expect it to be done and painted?

Probably not until April or June... I will be gone the month of May if all goes according to prophesy.

Originally Posted by b.eddy's72

I know it was when you first started the build but I have to admit that I was getting worried as I read some of the donor vehicles you were looking at (Camero, El Camino). Then I got to the STOP STOP STOP post and was relieved that someone interviened. You truck has come a long way and is looking great.

I understand, but I am TOTALLY making this up as I go.
I have an idea, and to achieve that I have to constantly make up new stuff, discard old thoughts for new, and sometimes just go with what works over what I wanted.
As if any of that just made sense....

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a

hold fast ,steady as she goes ,lol

Arrrrrrrrr, aye aye Cap'in !!

[flips72]

looking good McMurphy,engine is killer.

[McMurphy]

So this weekend I did actually get some stuff done, and other stuff started...
LOL
Such is the nature of this build I guess.

Well if you remember that heater box I restored last November, it got installed this weekend.



I also worked on the gas pedal cable, had to work with the old bracket off the original set up on this motor, but I trimmed off the stuff I would not be using and painted it. Cutting the hole in the fire wall for the cable was kind of trick, but the Dremmel tool was the life saver there !



Also got the pedal mount all mocked up (pulled it back out so I can Herculiner the floor)



And in someone else thread I asked them about modifying a standard pull handle fresh air vent into a cable operated one.
This is my "Before" photo, I have the mod mostly worked out, just need to finish up a couple of details and then I will post on how I did it.


This my friends, is the fun stuff !!

[CRGRS 66]

Nice progress, funny I just removed and dismantled my heater box tonight! Very interested to see how you go about the vents.

[captkell]

WOW moving along at a rather expeditious pace there. I see termination dust has arrived in most areas. Goodbye days, hello nights.

[KroAutomotiveInc]

very nice man be sure to clean out those vent boxes i get blasted in the face with dirt/beehives quit often when i hit around 70 mph lol...

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Nice progress, funny I just removed and dismantled my heater box tonight! Very interested to see how you go about the vents.

I had to order a new heater core this week, the one in there now was good to go, but suddenly developed a crack at the base of one of the in-outlet necks. If you have to do that, just know that there are 3 different size cores for these and the "deluxe" like I got is the largest at 9 1/2" long, and O'Rileys had to look under 1960 Chevy to find it. Lucky I had the LMC catalog in the store with me, it helped....

Originally Posted by captkell

WOW moving along at a rather expeditious pace there. I see termination dust has arrived in most areas. Goodbye days, hello nights.

Aye, and that dust drives me batty.
I spend so much time cleaning and painting this stuff for it to get all dusty as I am trying to get it put back together.

Originally Posted by KroAutomotiveInc

very nice man be sure to clean out those vent boxes i get blasted in the face with dirt/beehives quit often when i hit around 70 mph lol...

Just wait brother, I am installing screens on these !!

[CRGRS 66]

Hey Sarge, I am quite keen to see what you have come up with on the vents... sure would be nice to adjust the passenger side vent when there is no passenger there to follow my instruxions!!! Thanks for the tip on the heater core... I am thinking mine looks almost like new, think I am going to pressure wash the debris out of it, and run with it!

[markeb01]

I believe your shaved shifter is the best I've ever seen. Nice job! I'm also looking forward to seeing what you come up with on the vents. Finding creative solutions can be a lot of fun.

[McMurphy]

I was at O'Rileys the other day and saw these cables in the HELP section, at 5 feet long, they were perfect for this mod. (you can cut them to size too if you remember to pull back the inner steel wire befor you cut the coiled outer sleeve)



Then I used a 1/16" drill bit and drilled a machine screw all the way thru, just below the head of the screw. This will hold the end of the steel wire to my vent door and will be adjustable as the wire stretches over time.



I then cut the rivet heads holding my vent handle on, and with a socket behind the vent door plate to support it and keep it from warping, I used a punch and poked the rivets out into the socket.



Then because the door is actually 2 plates riveted together with a rubber "flapper" gasket between them, and because I did not want to run the risk of these small holes becoming whistles; I put the rivets back and hammered them in.



An 11/64" drill bit was used to bore a hole thru the side of the vent wall and the kick panel to allow the cable to pass thru without binding and without enough extra space so hopefully it will not create a whistle either.

I also welded a speed treaded retainer clip to the inside of the vent wall to hold my cable in place, this will keep it from sliding instead of opening and closing my vent. It got a body screw to keep tension on the cable, and also remain adjustable for any future tweaking that may be needed. (I only welded one side of the retainer clip to the vent wall)

I matched the drill bit to the size of the machine screw on the fin, and assembled my contraption.



Lesson Learned: as you can see by the first photo they pack these cable assemblys coiled pretty tightly, this can cause them to bind and not give you a smooth deployment of your set up. I was losing my mind on this for quite some time as the vent door worked smooth....the cable worked smoothly...but when I put them all together, not smooth at all. Once I reassembled my set up for Ohhhhhhh the 4th or 5th time (by now the wife is down watching and putting her fingers all over it) she had the control knob and stepped back stretching it out straight. VOLIA !! it now works smoothly !!

So for tonight I have weighted the cable for the other side and letting it hang over night, and am stretching the one I worked with today to see if that will help straighten them out.

Tomorrow I expect to drill the dash where they are going, and thread them thru for a complete mock up of the assembly.

More photos will ensue................

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by CRGRS 66

Hey Sarge, I am quite keen to see what you have come up with on the vents... sure would be nice to adjust the passenger side vent when there is no passenger there to follow my instruxions!!! Thanks for the tip on the heater core... I am thinking mine looks almost like new, think I am going to pressure wash the debris out of it, and run with it!

You and I are of the same mind on having control of the passenger side vent!!
But the main motivator for this mod was the parking brake. I harvested the one from the donor rig, and it would have conflicted with the driver side vent handle under the dash. Now (hopefully) I can have complete control over both !

Originally Posted by markeb01

I believe your shaved shifter is the best I've ever seen. Nice job! I'm also looking forward to seeing what you come up with on the vents. Finding creative solutions can be a lot of fun.

Wow thank you Mark, that means a ton coming from you !!

[Alan's Classic]

Dude, some have made some really nice progress since I checked in last.

I ran one of the air cleaners that you have back in the 80's. Back then it was really restrictive Keep that in mind if your engine is sluggish.

Also I have heard of the glass fuel filters fibrating loose and leaking. I have never experienced this with the glass filters, I have used them before. Just keep an eye on it.

Just want to pass along a little info.

[piratexpress1369a]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

I was at O'Rileys the other day and saw these cables in the HELP section, at 5 feet long, they were perfect for this mod. (you can cut them to size too if you remember to pull back the inner steel wire befor you cut the coiled outer sleeve)
Attachment 1000953


Then I used a 1/16" drill bit and drilled a machine screw all the way thru, just below the head of the screw. This will hold the end of the steel wire to my vent door and will be adjustable as the wire stretches over time.
Attachment 1000954


I then cut the rivet heads holding my vent handle on, and with a socket behind the vent door plate to support it and keep it from warping, I used a punch and poked the rivets out into the socket.
Attachment 1000955


Then because the door is actually 2 plates riveted together with a rubber "flapper" gasket between them, and because I did not want to run the risk of these small holes becoming whistles; I put the rivets back and hammered them in.
Attachment 1000956


An 11/64" drill bit was used to bore a hole thru the side of the vent wall and the kick panel to allow the cable to pass thru without binding and without enough extra space so hopefully it will not create a whistle either.

I also welded a speed treaded retainer clip to the inside of the vent wall to hold my cable in place, this will keep it from sliding instead of opening and closing my vent. It got a body screw to keep tension on the cable, and also remain adjustable for any future tweaking that may be needed. (I only welded one side of the retainer clip to the vent wall)

I matched the drill bit to the size of the machine screw on the fin, and assembled my contraption.
Attachment 1000957


Lesson Learned: as you can see by the first photo they pack these cable assemblys coiled pretty tightly, this can cause them to bind and not give you a smooth deployment of your set up. I was losing my mind on this for quite some time as the vent door worked smooth....the cable worked smoothly...but when I put them all together, not smooth at all. Once I reassembled my set up for Ohhhhhhh the 4th or 5th time (by now the wife is down watching and putting her fingers all over it) she had the control knob and stepped back stretching it out straight. VOLIA !! it now works smoothly !!

So for tonight I have weighted the cable for the other side and letting it hang over night, and am stretching the one I worked with today to see if that will help straighten them out.

Tomorrow I expect to drill the dash where they are going, and thread them thru for a complete mock up of the assembly.

More photos will ensue................

mcmurphy can you shoot some video on the cable opening and closing ...is the cable that strong to open and close it ..its a great idea for sure

[McMurphy]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Dude, some have made some really nice progress since I checked in last.

I ran one of the air cleaners that you have back in the 80's. Back then it was really restrictive Keep that in mind if your engine is sluggish.

Also I have heard of the glass fuel filters fibrating loose and leaking. I have never experienced this with the glass filters, I have used them before. Just keep an eye on it.

Just want to pass along a little info.

This will be the 6th vehicle I have installed these glass filters in, and have never had a problem with them. I too have heard the horror stories of them coming loose (which can happen to any thing plugged into a rubber hose) and breaking. Lets face it, engine fires are a bad day no matter how you slice it! Which is why all my rigs get at least one fire extinguisher as well.

Thank you for checking in, always good to hear from you here!!!

Originally Posted by piratexpress1369a

mcmurphy can you shoot some video on the cable opening and closing ...is the cable that strong to open and close it ..its a great idea for sure

I certainly will, though I have never messed with YouTube as a contributor, I guess it is time to learn!
To answer your question, the tension on the vent door is supplied by the handle believe it or not! Once you remove the handle slider, the door swings quite freely and easily. Long answer short: yes the cable is PLENTY strong enough!

[flips72]

very nice work on the vents, i am inpressedkeep up the great work.