Working Man's Burbon

[HO455]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Nothing needed. Enjoy them if they work out for ya, if not pass them on to someone who can.

Richard

Thank you very much. This place is great and you are one of the reasons why.

[HO455]

After some testing and such I decided the panels that the upper latches are bolted to need stiffeners. The 14 guage sheet metal allows fair amount of flex and that can't be good. So I cut some light angle iron pieces and tacked them down in addition to running the latch bolts through them. See photo. Now if the paint will ever dry I will get them installed back in the WMB.
Now that the rains have returned I noticed that the bottom of the door panels were wet. (Photo #2) So out into the rain I went and pulled them off and I discovered two things.
One is that the PO secured the fabric with duct tape and that blocked the drain holes behind the door panels. So I removed most of the old tape in hopes of getting the water to drain.
And two is the water appears to be coming in the half circle cutout under the wing window. (Photo #3) So I covered those holes from the inside with some weather sealing tape. Hopefully this will stop the fabric from getting wet in the future.
The other thing I discovered was that my window regulator screws were loose and falling out. That's one less rattle to annoy me tomorrow.

[LockDoc]

-
It never ends.....

LockDoc

[HO455]

Originally Posted by richard2717

VC
I finally got those rear panel brackets shipped out today UPS. they should arrive Tuesday

Richard

Got the parts today! It looks as if I have a bit of a puzzle ahead of me figuring how all those pieces fit.

Thanks again Richard!

[HO455]

0

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
It never ends.....

LockDoc

Oh boy, you're speaking the gospel there Doc. It looks as my passenger side door panel water drainage project failed so it will have to come off again. Since the driver side stayed dry I must be batting .500.

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by HO455

Got the parts today! It looks as if I have a bit of a puzzle ahead of me figuring how all those pieces fit.

Thanks again Richard!

I probably have some pictures and will post them later

[HO455]

Excellent!! Thanks again sir.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
It never ends.....

LockDoc

I think you jinxed me Doc! Now my brake pedal is feeling weird and one channel of the A/F guage has gone to error mode. And it's raining again!

But that will let me know if my new fix of the door panel will work. I looked closer at the door side of things under the panel and noticed the factory seal had come unglued and dropped down a bit. (Photo #1 like the red line shown) I cleaned things up a bit and reglued the the seal. It appears that those crafty GM engineers planned for the seal bead to catch and guide the water to the drain slots where the water would then go back inside the door and drain out the bottom slots. None of which will happen if the seal isn't glued down in the correct place.
The second and third photos show the before and after pictures of the inside of the door panels and the duct tape mess that the PO used to hold the fabric and to trap water. I only cleaned up the bottom edge as I plan on replacing the current fabric once I get this wetness issue solved for good.

[richard2717]

here are the pics as promised.


.

[richard2717]

2 more


.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by HO455

I think you jinxed me Doc! Now my brake pedal is feeling weird and one channel of the A/F guage has gone to error mode. And it's raining again!

But that will let me know if my new fix of the door panel will work. I looked closer at the door side of things under the panel and noticed the factory seal had come unglued and dropped down a bit. (Photo #1 like the red line shown) I cleaned things up a bit and reglued the the seal. It appears that those crafty GM engineers planned for the seal bead to catch and guide the water to the drain slots where the water would then go back inside the door and drain out the bottom slots. None of which will happen if the seal isn't glued down in the correct place.
The second and third photos show the before and after pictures of the inside of the door panels and the duct tape mess that the PO used to hold the fabric and to trap water. I only cleaned up the bottom edge as I plan on replacing the current fabric once I get this wetness issue solved for good.

Sorry about that....... I never thought about the foam seal helping with moisture travel. I usually don't replace them. Maybe I need to re-evaluate my thinking on that. PO must have had stock in the tape company. I have never had much luck with the spray adhesives myself. Maybe he didn't either.


LockDoc

[HO455]

Originally Posted by richard2717

here are the pics as promised.


.

Thanks Richard. They will make installation much easier.


I got to the bottom of the brake pedal issue. I popped the lid off the master cylinder and the front reservoir was very low. I immediately went to the worst case scenario and spent 45 minutes inspecting the brake lines and calipers. It ended up being the pads which were the last thing I looked at. The pads were worn down to about an 1/8" . I installed a new set of Bosch Quietcast pads and everything was back to normal.

The rotors looked nice and miced out between 126.2 and 126.7. The minimum is 127.5. I noticed the rotors are the original factory one with the groove in the center of the pad area. Which is important since I believe they only came that way on 71 & 72's. I still don't know for sure what 5 lug spindles are installed. But if the rotor's are grooved that would rule out 73 and later spindles. Please correct me if I am wrong about this.

I guess I had better take a look at the rear shoes as it has been about 14k miles since I looked at them and although they showed little wear on last inspection I have no idea what quality of shoes were installed.

[Average Joe]

Originally Posted by Average Joe

Yep.

Iirc I used 2" wide flat bar. Maybe 3/8" thick? Ill have to double check that though.

Yep

2 pieces of 3/16".

Here are some recent pictures with (15) sheets of OSB in the back.

[HO455]

Thanks Joe. Nice hard working Burban you have there.

[HO455]

Got some time to work on the WMB today. I have been driving it without a choke since I put the Qjet on. Which hasn't been too bad, even when we've had some mornings below freezing. As the idle mixture is still rich I've been able roll out to work without much fuss. I ordered an electric choke conversion from Mikes Carburetor parts. I have used this style of choke before with good results.
Picture number one is what you get in the kit. The directions are good and it only took about 30 minutes to install. That being said I had no old choke to remove and the mounting surface and threads were previously cleaned. Also I had previously installed wiring for the electric choke on the old Edelbrock carburetor.
Most of my installation time was getting spent getting the existing wires and hoses situated. The set up consists of a choke stove with 12+ and 12- connections. The 12+ is for power from a switched source. The stove bolts down the same as the factory one would. (Photos 2 & 3). The actuator arm has to be inserted in to the choke linkage before the stove is bolted down. Then the tricky part is getting the push nut installed on the end of the actuator arm.
The 12- terminal is where the temperature sensor hooks up. The sensor has a copper lug that bolts to the intake manifold. The connection to the manifold is a ground so it has to be clean and shiny. After removing one of the intake bolts and filing the intake to get a good electrical connection I coated the surfaces with Coppersieze to keep it working in the long run. Then the sensor is simply bolted down and the wire run to the choke stove. (Photo 4)
The connections on the choke stove are male and female so if you don't change the connector on the sensor lead it would be hard to get it wired incorrectly.
Now the fun starts. In the morning I will have to set the high idle speed as well as how much the choke plate is pulled closed when things are cold. Although currently its only been down about 40 degrees in the mornings lately. I may have to go up on Mt. Hood to get some colder temperatures.
Loosening the screw above the plastic part of the choke allows you to turn the plastic center which in turn opens or closes the choke plate like the original did.

[HO455]

A quick follow up on the choke. I had set the temperature range as directed to the second mark and with our mild winter weather as of late the choke works great. I didn't even have to adjust the high idle speed. The cold idle speed is about 150 RPM higher than hot idle. So knock on wood it is all good.
Today's big project was changing the front floor mats.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by HO455

A quick follow up on the choke. I had set the temperature range as directed to the second mark and with our mild winter weather as of late the choke works great. I didn't even have to adjust the high idle speed. The cold idle speed is about 150 RPM higher than hot idle. So knock on wood it is all good.
Today's big project was changing the front floor mats.

Good deal on the choke.

Those mats look pretty heavy duty. I need to get new ones for the Panel Truck.

LockDoc

[CG]

I love the fold flat back seats you did. I had always wondered when they folded flat with the seat bottoms folded up could you still put 4x8 sheets in there and close it up.

You definitely answered that question =)

[HO455]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Good deal on the choke.

Those mats look pretty heavy duty. I need to get new ones for the Panel Truck.

LockDoc

Here is more information on the mats. At this point the only thing I would change on them is they should be larger. Oh and cheaper!

https://www.jegs.com/p/Husky-Liners/...71000/10002/-1

[HO455]

Originally Posted by CG

I love the fold flat back seats you did. I had always wondered when they folded flat with the seat bottoms folded up could you still put 4x8 sheets in there and close it up.

You definitely answered that question =)

Thanks. I need the other parts of my life to settle down so I can get time to finish them up.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by HO455

Here is more information on the mats. At this point the only thing I would change on them is they should be larger. Oh and cheaper!

https://www.jegs.com/p/Husky-Liners/...71000/10002/-1

Thanks, I think they are wider than the ones I have now. The heavy duty ones are not cheap no matter where you get them.

LockDoc

[HO455]

Originally Posted by CG

I love the fold flat back seats you did. I had always wondered when they folded flat with the seat bottoms folded up could you still put 4x8 sheets in there and close it up.

You definitely answered that question =)

I will give credit to AverageJoe for definitively answering that question with his photo.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Thanks, I think they are wider than the ones I have now. The heavy duty ones are not cheap no matter where you get them.

LockDoc

If you need me to put a tape measure next to them, let me know.

HO455

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by HO455

If you need me to put a tape measure next to them, let me know.

HO455

OK, thanks.

LockDoc

[Average Joe]

Originally Posted by HO455

I will give credit to AverageJoe for definitively answering that question with his photo.

Any new milage data? Still playing with the tune on the qjet?